brake problem

[cummins fanatic]

hi i figured this would be the place to find my answer. heres the problem im having, last week i replaced the differential gasket and outer axle seals on my moms 90 4runner, when i went to bleed the brakes i couldnt get the master cyl to pump up or bleed, so i checked to see if the front the front brakes would, once i did this then there was nothing, tried again from farthest to closest but nothing just dead pedal. so finally decided to remove master cyl and check the cups found that the cups were in bad shape so bought new one went to install and got the same thing. i have never had problems like this with brakes, any ways what the heck am i doing wrong? has anybody else encountered this problem? oh ya i also checked the rear cyl's and all is ok. thanks

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Are you getting any presure on the pedal? Or does it just drop to the floor? (assuming this from the dead pedal remark) And the fluid level is good?

Welcome to the board! <-- Mud salute!!!

[ajfriz]

I've had this happen as well. The way that it was fixed was to bench bleed the master and keep the fluid level full at all times when bleeding the rest of the brakes. I've also heard of people using a vacuum bleeder which is pretty cool.

[RVBtruck]

pressure/vacuum bleeder is the way to go if you can find one to use. Otherwise as stated above, bench bleed and keep full.

and welcome

[maximusRMP]

I've had times when it's taken a half hour just to get a small amount of action at the master when installing a new unit. Helps to have someone run the pedal while you crack open the lines at the master.
Takes some patience.
Bench bleeding involves a lot less mess for sure (less chance of paint damage)

[cummins fanatic]

thanks for your responses guys, i did bench bleed the master cyl. before i installed it. what is the valve above the rear end that has a rod coming from it connecting to rear end do? just curious. i think im going to have to buck up and buy a vacuum bleeder to get this thing finished.

[toygurus]

rear load proportioning valve

[cummins fanatic]

What does it do?

[cruzizzle]

Do the 4Runners have the same brake systems as 2WD trucks? If so, there should be a junction block on the passenger side over the rear axle like you are describing. There is a bleed valve on it (pointing towards the rear of the truck). This is a high point in the system. You need to crack that valve open. You will hear and see bubbles of air coming out. Just let it come out until its solid fluid and then close it...no need to bleed it by pumping and releasing.

I ran into this same deal on my pickup. I bought speed bleeders for the corners, but I didn't have one for the junction, and nobody was around to help me. I replaced both lines from the front frame junction block to the rear. I must have bled the whole thing 6 times with no results. I kept telling myself that I didn't need to bleed that thing for some reason- I guess 'cause it was rusty and I thought I would break it. Finally I talked myself into it and 5 minutes later, I'm on the road. Thanks to Ohio, my truck now has a new fuel tank and pump bracket, all new fuel lines and all new f & R brake lines. Should be good for another 6 months or so!

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

The fancy valve tells the truck you need more rear brakes when you have it loaded down with stuff. That's what the arm goign to the axle does.

[cummins fanatic]

well after purchasing a vacuum bleeder (which i always wanted anyways) i still couldnt get the brakes to work. finally i took off the new master cyl and returned it hoping they sold me a defective one. installed it and they worked. i was almost sure there was some thing wrong with the one i returned but kept thinking(what are the odds) wish i would of did that earlier, would have saved me a lot of time and headache. thanks for all your imput guys.

[WristPin]

Originally Posted by cummins fanatic

well after purchasing a vacuum bleeder (which i always wanted anyways) i still couldnt get the brakes to work. finally i took off the new master cyl and returned it hoping they sold me a defective one. installed it and they worked. i was almost sure there was some thing wrong with the one i returned but kept thinking(what are the odds) wish i would of did that earlier, would have saved me a lot of time and headache. thanks for all your imput guys.

what are the odds?

hehehehe. tru stop fron napa has a 60% fail /pass rate. raybestos is not much different. the 40% they hope is good is sold to you.
when i have a customer who wants the cheap economy junk, I order 2 of em, cause one is better than the other.

thats just a few companys.
how bout the rest of em. it couldnt get worse.

glad you got it fixed.

[nat88toy]

Originally Posted by WristPin

what are the odds?

hehehehe. tru stop fron napa has a 60% fail /pass rate. raybestos is not much different. the 40% they hope is good is sold to you.
when i have a customer who wants the cheap economy junk, I order 2 of em, cause one is better than the other.

thats just a few companys.
how bout the rest of em. it couldnt get worse.

glad you got it fixed.

is it the same thing with starters? i use to go threw a starter every 6 months or so untill i grabed a factory toyota one of a parts truck

[maximusRMP]

Starters, alternators, lotsa rebuilt crap coming out of your local parts outfit.
You can spend HOURS chasing a problem after installing a faulty rebuild.
Replaceable starter selenoid contacts............
HAPPY NEW YEAR

[WristPin]

Originally Posted by nat88toy

is it the same thing with starters? i use to go threw a starter every 6 months or so untill i grabed a factory toyota one of a parts truck

i pay people for starters and alternators round here.
somtimes its the price of the core charge.

there is no better product than a nippon denso.
the contacts and plunger on the starter are serviceable. just like the brushes are on the alternators.

rebuild or buy OEM!