3 broken rings, 1 piston and spun bearings - Options?

BFGTAKO · 12-15-06, 11:45 AM

I picked up that 1980 Pickup a few days ago (got it for what i thought was a good price, way lower than what he wanted), it has a 10" lift, 35" BFG MTs, lockers, 35k on a rebuilt motor, and a few other things...

Two hours later we're driving down the highway doing 65 and I notice that I can't see shit behind us, it's 100% smoke... we pull over and...

Sweet. Have it towed home and we start ripping shit apart.

Turns out it was the gasket at the front of the crank, cheap fix - right? Oh wait, no. I start it up and drives it around the massive dirt lot beside my house and it starts rod knocking/spun bearing noise like ***k so..... shit. We pull the oil pan because I assume it's a spun bearing

Oh, cool. God damn bearing shit, ring, and piston. Rebuilt engine 36k miles ago?

Wtf. Looks like cyl 1 rings (at the least) are screwed. Time to tear it apart.

Valve cover off, cam looks scarred pretty badly.

Pulling the intake mani off, someone ported the head. It has a 22r block with a 20r head.

Head off. Well, that doesn't look good. Where is the ring?

Bearing is eaten.

Fucking awesome. Yes, that's a hole in the piston. Oh, and the pistons are from 93 - according to the markings cast. 36k miles since 93. What the christ?

Bearings for piston number 4. Raped.

At this point we quit for the night since it's was 2am... So where do we go from here? Rebuild the engine, throw a ford/chevy small block in it, get a dead stock Pickup and swap the suspension/other minor things, or what? Money is a pretty big concern so a new shortblock is well out of the question. I assume that this block will now need machining, along with probably a slight overbore which I guess will get expensive.

"N8" · 12-15-06, 12:08 PM

Dude by far your easyest and cheapest fix for this is to buy a parts truck and swap the engine. I just picked up our last one for 350$ way less than your gonna spend on a 350 swap. and if you dont mind when you do the swap changing the wiring harness aswell you could get a FI engine for those steep inclines. I think a rebuild gasket kit is like 80$ for a 22re.

cheap fast easy...
my .02

BFGTAKO · 12-15-06, 12:13 PM

Yea, I was thinking of doing that. I just have to make sure that the engine in the truck that i buy is in good shape so that i dont get screwed for a 2nd time. Where did you get your parts truck from?

I was also thinking about buying a completely stock truck with a good engine and then swapping over the parts from this truck that are actually good. It appears that everything on the truck, including the body, is in worse shape than i originally thought; which is why I thought of swapping stuff onto a stock truck.

KliersLC · 12-15-06, 03:34 PM

What did the seller say??

Velocity2 · 12-15-06, 04:19 PM

I love my Mini truck and the 22 series engine. Rebuild and run without fear buddy!

BFGTAKO · 12-15-06, 04:32 PM

I didnt say anything to the seller, there is no point...i mean there is nothing that can be done about this now hes just gonna bull shit me and piss me off even more...

I was thinking of rebuilding or buying like a crate motor idk which would be better

bkg · 12-15-06, 06:20 PM

If I remember correctly, the 93 stamp refers to bore in mm, not date. I could be wrong.

BFGTAKO · 12-15-06, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkg

If I remember correctly, the 93 stamp refers to bore in mm, not date. I could be wrong.

It says DEC 93....

BFGTAKO · 12-16-06, 01:18 AM

Anyone know a good place to get a longblock from?

BFGTAKO · 12-16-06, 01:27 AM

Anyone know a good place to get a longblock from?

85 SA Toy · 12-16-06, 09:29 AM

You can check Jasper Engines..... they have good remans....

KliersLC · 12-16-06, 02:29 PM

Kragen sells a decent long block....

"N8" · 12-17-06, 12:59 AM

Go long block if you have the cash. heres a link for DOA's page: http://www.doaracingengines.com/index.html But if not just get a parts truck outa the local classifieds, bring a compression tester when you go to look at it and check fluid levels and gaskets for leaks, and take a look at all the spark plugs. Thatll make sure you get a good engine. there is a good section in any hayns or chiltons manual about diagnosing the combustion of the engine by looking at the plugs.

ajfriz · 12-17-06, 09:14 PM

I agree with n8. Even if you need to do a top end, it will be a lot cheaper than a longblock and should give you a lot of trouble free miles. There is also a place that one of my friends brother that bought a complete 22r with a lifetime warranty for $800. They cammed it the way he wanted it. I don't know what the quality was as far as new parts, but he claims it runs well. I will get the company name from him if you are interested.

BFGTAKO · 12-18-06, 12:38 AM

Sorry it takes me so long to reply, I was working on the truck all day yesterday and today; just stopped now. Since I can't drive it I decided to fix everything that I don't like on it and redo everything. We bobbed the back end today...cut it right after the rear shackles. I am going to build a some time of flat bed with a spare tire mount a tool box and perhaps a fuel cell. I also pulled about 150 feet of unnecessary wire out (the guy ghetto rigged the whole truck) and we started fixing the body. The body had ripples on the side and roof because it was, apparently, flopped so we push out/in a lot of it and then use bondo to make it smooth. I plan to paint it this week or by the end of next weekend.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajfriz

I agree with n8. Even if you need to do a top end, it will be a lot cheaper than a longblock and should give you a lot of trouble free miles. There is also a place that one of my friends brother that bought a complete 22r with a lifetime warranty for $800. They cammed it the way he wanted it. I don't know what the quality was as far as new parts, but he claims it runs well. I will get the company name from him if you are interested.

It would be great if you could get the name of the company for me. I am still not sure what I am going to do...I was even thinking of doing a 350 swap but that means I have to wait awhile to get all that money together..not sure yet. Thanks for the help

Tools R Us · 12-18-06, 01:34 PM

If the block and head are good, I would rebuild it. Have heard good things about these guys and the prices are good.

http://www.engnbldr.com/ToyotaHotLicks.htm

BFGTAKO · 12-19-06, 12:55 AM

Well I would probably have to get the block machined and all so there would probably be more value in getting a new engine as opposed to rebuilding...idk

BFGTAKO · 12-22-06, 01:42 AM

Ok. I have decided that I am not going to rebuild the engine. I am thinking about a 350 swap which means that I can sell all of the engine components that I have now which would include the following: Weber Carb, 22r Block, 20r ported and polished head, intake manifold, headman headers, flowmaster exhaust, 4 speed manual tranny and anything else that I won't need for a 350 swap. How much do you think I could sell this stuff for?

2ndGenToyotaFan · 12-22-06, 01:57 AM

I'll give you a buck...... you pay shipping.....

Maybe $500 or whatever the market will bear..... But what do I know?

85 SA Toy · 12-22-06, 03:47 PM

pm' ed you!