Sticking ignition? here how to fix (with pics)

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May 7, 2012
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My troopy caught me off guard and the ignition stuck on me after i put some silicon spray in to free it up. In essense i am guessing the key or lock has worn at different speeds and my putting silicon in made everythign free up rendering the key not working
I looked at getting a new barrel - but no one could guarantee that i would be able to key it alike to the locks -something to do with the later model barrels have a different key?? -either way i decided to rebuild
Steps
1) remove housing around steering column - if you key works intermittentantly great get the ignition to acc -if it helps wiggle the key up and down -this will help shake the pins - if yuor key does not work you will have to drill the pin that faces the steering wheel (you will need to remove the indicator/light stalk housing
 
Pic 2
Next you will need to bend up the cast alloy lug to remove the outside key housing - in doing this mine broke -but it is actually not required
Pic 3
You will need to lever off the outter housing - this took some force and in the end i used a hammer and a vice -came off with a few sharp blows
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Pic 4 -remove the circlip that holds the key mechanism in the barrel - if you dont have the right tool to do this (i couldnt find mine) you can use a small screw driver -gently lift it out and then up - and then work it off being careful it doesnt take off across the room at mach 1!!)
Pic 5 - hold down the steering lock arm and the mechanism will slide out
Pic 6 becareful that you dont lose this little pin which locates the steering lock arm in the the top of the barrel
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Pic 7 -you can see some of the pins sticking up causing the lock to stick
Pic 8 -i removed all the pins/lugs to clean as they were very sticky -be very careful when removing that this little spring doesnt fly out or get lost
Pic 9 - all pins/lugs have been removed and cleaned - from here i put key back in to check to see how much each pin/lug was sticking up and removed each one and filled it down - they are brass (soft) so didnt take long
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Pic 10 -lock closely at this picture inside the barrel (just above the end of the screwdriver tip)- you can see two dark indentations have occured over time as the pins/lugs that stick up and hasty turning of the key has worn the key channel -mine was quite rough and i used a sharp screwdriver blade to smooth it down - not really a professional finish or approach but it worked

Pic 11 - greased the whole lot and put back together - bingo works beautifully! -

cheers
bill
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Thank you for posting this. Super straight-forward and actually easier than replacing the lock and re-keying.

I'm going to be doing this myself in the coming weeks.

You can buy a new complete lockset for your HZJ77 still depending on what ignition barrel you have in the column. I did (just in case).
 
You can buy a new complete lockset for your HZJ77 still depending on what ignition barrel you have in the column. I did (just in case).

Wow, that's amazing. I just found the entire set for $290. Killer deal. Thank you.
 
Wow, that's amazing. I just found the entire set for $290. Killer deal. Thank you.
Just don’t be surprised if the lock barrel won’t fit. Might not be an issue with yours since the 77 is 1990 and newer. The lock barrel didn’t fit my 1985 Ute but fortunately I didn’t need to replace it, I bought the kit so I would have one key for everything instead of multiple ones🤣
 
69005-6B612-C0 worked for my 1993 HZJ77. See photos below. Includes everything, even the valet key and glove box lock. The only thing that was extra was the fuel door lock (it comes with two).

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