Hybrid FJ79/62 Series Build

crushers · 02-03-12, 09:19 AM

the color should match the interior trim
if you are going white trim then match that
if grey then match
if beige then match

MSGGrunt · 02-03-12, 11:10 AM

Thanks Wayne. The interior, to include the door panels, seats, visors, headliner and all other trim will be gray. So it makes sense that the dash be gray. Does anyone have a paint code for the interior gray color?

wongtsenhin · 02-03-12, 02:32 PM

Beige or gray is standard colour for 70 series interior.

alberta mac · 02-04-12, 07:19 AM

now that you have the body couldn't you just order a full frame and axles for the truck ? wouldnt that be cheaper and faster ? Your time has to be worth something ?

H hhhmmm ?

lowenbrau · 02-05-12, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alberta mac

now that you have the body couldn't you just order a full frame and axles for the truck ? wouldnt that be cheaper and faster ? Your time has to be worth something ?

H hhhmmm ?

Faster, maybe. Cheaper, not a chance. The frame alone is $10K around here. Loaded axles are probably more than that. If you wanted to buy a Land Cruiser from the parts dept, you'd probably need a $ 1/4 million.

beno · 02-05-12, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lowenbrau

Faster, maybe. Cheaper, not a chance. The frame alone is $10K around here. Loaded axles are probably more than that. If you wanted to buy a Land Cruiser from the parts dept, you'd probably need a $ 1/4 million.

7x series frames are available in the US along with front axle housing and full floater rear axles as well.

Frames are going for about $5500 wholesale.

crushers · 02-06-12, 03:22 AM

the cost to do a complete truck using factory parts ... HUGE.

ask me how i know.

MSGGrunt · 02-06-12, 07:56 AM

I went the 79 series on the 80 series frame because I already owned a rust free Texas 1996 80 series that made a great donor truck. It kind of hurt to sacrafice a perfectly good 80 series for my 79 build, but my passion to have a 79 on 4 coils with the 1FZFE won out over any other reasonable thought. A decision I am not regretting.

And mounting the 79 on the 80's frame, though not a bolt on like it would be on a dedicated 79 series frame, still isn't all that difficult. Just fabricating body mounting brackets. And shortening the 79 bed gives it, IMHO, a much better look.

lowenbrau · 02-06-12, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beno

7x series frames are available in the US along with front axle housing and full floater rear axles as well.

Frames are going for about $5500 wholesale.

$5500 wholesale at American Toyota equals $40,000 retail at a Canadian dealer if oil filters are any indication. They are asking $60 for a filter now.

A local fellow bought a new HZJ79 Frame while he was in Germany (had an accident) ... $10K US

tlcruiserman · 02-06-12, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crushers

hence why i added his name and company to my "hard to find parts" thread in this forum.
Michael is a good guy to deal with ... BTW, how is my snorkel order coming along?

Hi wayne, well with the new building going up and the prep for the swap meet in march and prep for the ME trip I have seemed to misplace the snorkel inventory ARG! I know I should have one left but still looking for it. Worst case I have an order for the new style going in in a few weeks I am going to order more. Let me see what I come up with the week.

Thanks for you patients on this.

Thanks,

Michael

crushers · 02-06-12, 04:56 PM

patients or patience?
Dr. Michael to snorkel emergency, Dr. Michael.

MSGGrunt · 02-08-12, 12:56 PM

Getting ready to re-install the heater. I took everything apart and cleaned 25 plus years of dust out of the heater. I also replaced all the foam that seals everything. After 25 years the foam was pretty dried out and would flake off at the slightest touch. I did not replace the heater core as it looked to be in good shape. I gave it a good flush and hope this will be sufficient.

1978HJ45 · 02-08-12, 02:08 PM

When I first got my HJ75 the heater was marginal at best so I flushed the heater core. I ran water through it until it ran clean ( you would not believe the crud that came out of that thing). After a couple of days I realized the heater was still not operating properly so I "flushed" again which resulted in another 10 minutes of brown water.
I ended up flushing the heater core 3 times ( the last with detergent ) before it started operating correctly. The moral here....at least in my case it took multiple flushing to guarantee the heater core was indeed free of crud.

MSGGrunt · 02-08-12, 02:22 PM

Point well taken, I'll flush it again and see how clean the water runs out of the heater core. Is there anything other than clean water that can be used to clean it? Like CLR or some other chemical?

crushers · 02-08-12, 02:31 PM

okay, here is my heater core / cooling system flush.
drain engine of antifreeze both the rad and the engien drain plug.
refill with straight water.
take the proper wrenches with you to the local car wash.
wash the vehicle to allow the engine to cool.
now remove on line from the heater core, which doesn't matter
stick the wash nozzle into the heater hose and let loose. the water will come flushing out the other end, REAL dirty and usually very rusty do don't get it in the eyes.
now reverse the proceedure and go again till the water is clear.
now remove rad cap and hold finger over one spout and shoot again till the water comign out the rad is clear.
reverse finger to other outlet and hit it again.
wash front of vehicle again.
done

i have had EXCELLENT results with this proceedure.

MSGGrunt · 02-08-12, 02:41 PM

Wayne, always a wealth of knowledge, great trick. Pressure seems to be the key to dislodge many years of unwanted residue.

1978HJ45 · 02-08-12, 02:41 PM

Sorry I left out an important part.....we also flushed the radiator twice.
We used a large pan to collect the "brown" water + 2 small fish that came out of the radiator.

roscoFJ73 · 02-10-12, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSGGrunt

Getting ready to re-install the heater. I took everything apart and cleaned 25 plus years of dust out of the heater. I also replaced all the foam that seals everything. After 25 years the foam was pretty dried out and would flake off at the slightest touch. I did not replace the heater core as it looked to be in good shape. I gave it a good flush and hope this will be sufficient.

Good idea to clean them out. I came across a parts HJ75 once that had caught fire.The owner said he started it up with the heater on to warm the cab and went back to finish his breakfast.When he went out 10mins later the fluff in heater fan had caught fire.
I felt a bit sorry for him,he was an old guy and didnt have much .The 75 looked an easy repair to me but he had been given over the top prices to repair the electrical damage,all it really need was some new harnesses from the wrecker,but by the time I got there many parts had already gone.
WARNING TO ALL OLD HJ75 OWNERS

gifu · 02-10-12, 01:58 PM

it sounds like over kill, but when i put my heater back together, i used this stuff to seal the large seams:
Amazon.com: AFT-701 Aluminum Foil Gummy Tape Hardcast 1.88in X 50ft 30 MIL: Home Improvement

don't use duck tape.
i have two 70 series, and the one that is sealed is warmer when it's cold and cooler when it's warm.
Just say'n.

Eco 45 · 02-10-12, 09:53 PM

If you have your heater core out you could always run to a local radiator shop and have them run a pressure test on it. Good way to check for weak areas before going to all the trouble to install all the dash items to have it leak onto the floor on your maiden voyage with the truck. I have all radiators, heater cores and fuel tanks pressure tested during rebuilding---little extra insurance for when the job is done. Great progress on the truck you are moving faster than many others.