1986 BJ70 Land Cruiser

[Eric Winkworth]

Hey guys


Just wondering what you think of this beast I am looking at, has the stock 3.4L diesel it is a 24 volt model with 260 000 KM and the guys wants 10000 CAN.

I know these trucks hold there value really well and have yet to find on in this kind of condition, it has minimal rust underneath and body is spotless.

My question is how tank are these motors will they actually flip over the odometer if well maintained? Does it have a posie or will it one wheel in front and rear?

It has been painted last year and has had all new glow plugs, injectors, current
sensors and the intake pre-heater replaced. Also new tires, shocks, clutch, rear brakes, winshield wiper motors, a new rear window on one side, an alpine am/fm/cd stereo, and replaced some of the dashboard panels as they had dents or cracks etc. All this work was done by a Toyota dealer and he has the bills to verify.

I just can't get over the age and miledge, but I want it soo bad ever other truck I look at I just think, it isn't a diesel toyota!!!

Cheers
Eric

p.s. I can't seem to post the pictures, leave your email and I will send them

[silvercrusher]

it'll run for a million. plus the block is sleeved so you just resleeve it and poof new engine assuming the block isn't out of tolerance of course. You won't regret it.

[cruiser_guy]

My 3B got turbo'd at 300,000kM and is now over 400,000kM. Properly maintained they can easily do 500,000 and more. Improperly maintained by the PO, like the '84 that I had for a couple of years and it'll need a rebuild soon. They don't like high rev's or low coolant.
Like Silvercrusher says, it can be COMPLETELY rebuilt.
Check compression and pay particular attention to the head. I've never pulled a 3B head that wasn't cracked between the valves. That's why I've got the aftermarket head on mine.

[wesintl]

Originally Posted by cruiser_guy

Check compression and pay particular attention to the head. I've never pulled a 3B head that wasn't cracked between the valves. That's why I've got the aftermarket head on mine.

That's what i've heard too. mine was cracked in all but 1 chamber and had 415-425 across the board. While it's rebuildable it's not cheap and usually it's not much more to drop in a 3bt. anyway it's a bj70, cool truck. 10K CAD seems kinda steep when another ~5 will get you a JDM.

Oh yeah.. MOD.. this should be in the intl cruiser tech

[silvercrusher]

A rebuild kit is only around 1100 us . I'd love to find a 3bt for that price in newly rebuilt condition. I'm assuming of course that you have the mech ability to do the job yourself.

[lowenbrau]

The rebuild kit is the smallest expense even when doing the rebuild yourself. A 3B rebuild can be done for $3000 cdn If you do the work yourself.

I've only personally witnessed one rig which rolled the odo. Its a BJ60 and was for sale here in Calgary but spent most of its life on the West coast. I've had a couple of BJ60s with 700,000 km on the clock but that's as close as I come.

I really think the 13BT is a good value if you are not looking to keep the rig origional. I lent mine to my GF for here BJ42 and it is just such a nice combo.

[wesintl]

Originally Posted by silvercrusher

A rebuild kit is only around 1100 us . I'd love to find a 3bt for that price in newly rebuilt condition. I'm assuming of course that you have the mech ability to do the job yourself.

Add up all the machine work, belts hoses, a head if needed, rebuilt or new injectors and the usual BS that you don't think of etc.(you got to have a turbo these days ) and it'll be enough in the ballpark of 3bt. I just replaced my head and seriously seriously thought about going engine swap route. I'm sure the a 3b with a turbo is nice but it'd be no where close to a DI 3BT with fairly low miles. Although I'm sticking with the 3B for now if I ever had to do a full rebuild I'd probably sell the engine and let some other sucker have fun rebuilding it.

JMO though

[Eric Winkworth]

Well I got the old girl for 8500, and I am pretty happy. I already fixed up the few things I noticed that got the price down. A leak in the tank which I took out fixed and painted, the straping also needed some help and the vent hoses were rough. Also fixed up so sketcy wiring to the headlight they kept getting 24 volts and blowing blubs, it came with a shop manual so that help alot. I got toyota to do a compression test and to my surprise 430 pounds in every cylinder give or take 5 pounds. How much allowence is there?

Now I have those things fixed up I notcied my oil pressure gauge is either not working or I have no pressure, when I start it cold it goes up to about a 1/4 on the guage, with no change from idle to 3000rpm and when it warms up it goes down to almost nothing, I am very worried about this and am not driving it until I can figure out a fix. Please help

cheers
Eric

[Diescipel]

Originally Posted by Eric Winkworth

Now I have those things fixed up I notcied my oil pressure gauge is either not working or I have no pressure, when I start it cold it goes up to about a 1/4 on the guage, with no change from idle to 3000rpm and when it warms up it goes down to almost nothing, I am very worried about this and am not driving it until I can figure out a fix. Please help

cheers
Eric

Put a mechanical gauge on there and get a true reading. The in-cab gauges are notoriously weak and you also have a low pressure kill switch that will keep you from damaging the engine. See this post.

HTH
B

[wesintl]

This thread is worthless without pics. Send em to wesw71@aol.com and I'll post em for you.
Oh.. 2nd on the gauges. Stock ones are weak.

[Eric Winkworth]

Hey guys

I have looked through a few threads on here and have seen these gauges don't seem to be the best, I am just worried about hurting the engine when my pressure on the gauge is constently near nothing, but if there is a low pressure switch I guess it isn't a big deal for now, I sure love the old girl already, it came with some alright michelin all seasons on it and I had her nearly stuck in a gully of ice and snow, when I got a good track going she crawled right out, now I bought some snow claw traction ads, I have yet to try them out.

[brownbear]

when your EDIC gets a no oil pressure signal it will shut off your engine, I have had it after an oil change. next start it went no problem

Just because your engine isn't shutting off though doesn't mean you should not test your oil px. you should still see if it is a sending unit problem or if you are low oil px.

do you know what oil is in it? hate to think it has some super thin stuff in. I used to have a toyota T-100 that would have low oil px when idling. especially if I used 5w30. much better on 10w30. had ok oil px with power on , just dropped to the bottom when at idle and hot.

you should get some pics up here. we want to see the new truck.

good luck on the troubleshooting of the low px.

[Eric Winkworth]

I just changed the oil today to Shell Rotella Full synthedic 0w 40, which after that post I am not sure was such a good idea. The stuff that came out was regular 10W 30, the gauge actually seems to be higher now although, at this point I thinks it's FUBAR'ed

I hear ya on the wanting to know the pressure is right, not just above where it would be shutting it off.

I will have to take some pictures of the old girl, she is really nice, wanna take the time and get her right fixed up.

[cruiser_guy]

I personally wouldn't use an oil as light as 0w-40 unless I was in the Arctic all the time. In B.C. I always ran 15w-40 and here in Central America I usually run 15w-40 when available otherwise it'll be a straight 30 or 40 weight diesel rated (C?) oil.

[Eric Winkworth]

I am going to run amsoil heavy duty synthedic from now on, I don't really need mine to have thin oil even in the winter, she cranks over amazing with the 24V. Usally synthedic oil stays pretty thin even when cold.

[crushers]

Originally Posted by silvercrusher

it'll run for a million. plus the block is sleeved so you just resleeve it and poof new engine assuming the block isn't out of tolerance of course. You won't regret it.

what kind of bull shit are you spouting?
i have yet to 'see' a 1,000,000 km 3B. have you? i have worked on hundreds over the years.

Eric, you are safe to assume you will get 500,000 out of this engine IF it has been properly maintained up to now and if you do not overheat it or miss too many oil changes.
for $10,000 CND that sounds like a decent deal as long as the frame is SOLID and the body is good.
cheers

[Radd Cruisers]

Originally Posted by crushers

what kind of bull shit are you spouting?
i have yet to 'see' a 1,000,000 km 3B. have you? i have worked on hundreds over the years.

Eric, you are safe to assume you will get 500,000 out of this engine IF it has been properly maintained up to now and if you do not overheat it or miss too many oil changes.
for $10,000 CND that sounds like a decent deal as long as the frame is SOLID and the body is good.
cheers

A cruiser head in Victoria (Layne Mahone)who knows most of the cruiser heads in Vancouver told me he put a million on a B diesel???

Second hand info for what its worth.

[lowenbrau]

Originally Posted by Radd Cruisers

A cruiser head in Victoria (Layne Mahone)who knows most of the cruiser heads in Vancouver told me he put a million on a B diesel???

Second hand info for what its worth.

I know Layne and wheeled with him in that rig and I believe he may have rounded up a little. Interesting Cruiser story though, it was an FJ40 that got converted to a B diesel and driven and driven and driven. It got lost in Alberta somewhere, might be running today.

Its pretty hard to provide documentation for a high miler, I've had three BJ60s that had over 700,000 on the clock. Reg (Raj) in Calgary had a BJ60 with 030000 on the clock ( He'd seen it flip but hadn't had it long before that. )

Highest documented original engine daily driver I can think of at the moment is Tanis Cochrane's '86 BJ70 with about 575,000km

[Deny]

Ya, Crazy Layne. Most of his stories seem a bit rounded up. They are damn interesting though. Hey Rob, do you know if Layne is making biodiesel yet, a while back there he seemed like he was all over it as he was asking me a lot of questions, and I haven't heard from him in a while. If you talk to him, tell him I wouldn't mind knowing what he's up to, cause his contact info must have changed.
Cheers,
Deny

[Radd Cruisers]

Originally Posted by Deny

Ya, Crazy Layne. Most of his stories seem a bit rounded up. They are damn interesting though. Hey Rob, do you know if Layne is making biodiesel yet, a while back there he seemed like he was all over it as he was asking me a lot of questions, and I haven't heard from him in a while. If you talk to him, tell him I wouldn't mind knowing what he's up to, cause his contact info must have changed.
Cheers,
Deny

Don`t think so, talk to him last week and no mention.\

Rob

[Eric Winkworth]

A high miledge motor also has alot to do with , the runs it has taken, if you are always driving 10 min to work and not really letting it warm up, you won't get the life out of it. Where as someone that has a car that goes an hour to work everyday, will get tons more. Also the use on synthedic oil throught it's life definitaly helps, I saw one for sale with over a million the guy took a picture of it flipping, still ran like a top he said.

I know they will, they are built better than most other diesels, I have seen Fords with international engines get 700 000, its nothin.

I dunno though we will see, Every ones different

Cheers
Eric

[crushers]

did this gent own the truck since new? did the engine get rebuilt in it's history or replaced with another?
i have heard the urban myths of these turning over the 1 mil mark but have yet to know someone that has owned it from new and knew the history of the drivetrain.
i can pull apart the odometer and turn it ahead to snap a pic...

that being said then if this is truth then excellent...

let's take this discussion a bit further, say you do get 1,000,000 out of your 3B using synthetic oil (just for an example), if you start using syn right from day one that will work out to 200 oil changes in a mil km. at approx $3/L difference in price and 8 L per change that is $4800 extra you are spending in oil changes. a rebuilt 3B is about the same price. so are you any further ahead?
and if you do get 1 mil out of the 3B then you will need to rebuild it at that time...

to me, a strong running 3B is a good buy but lets be realistic by a 1/2 mil km the body will have had work done to it, the rest of the drivetrain will need rebuilding, the interior will need refurbishing so i am not worried in the least about an engine lasting that long. it would be nice, i guess, but there is much more to consider than just the engine...
cheers (and peace)
Wayne

[Eric Winkworth]

I don't think he pulled apart the odometer to snap a picture, but maybe it would have been worth more without the million on it already. For all I know it smoked like a stuck pig, but he said it still ran strong.

Body work is nothin, as long as you keep on top of it and get it oiled every year without fail. I live in a very bad part of canada, I have a county barn right down the road from me, they shoot salt everywhere, all I do is give my truck a good few waxs during the summer and don't wash it untill a warm day. Never had alot of problems with rust and my last vechile was a hurtin FORD ranger. Doesn't have a spot on it mind you I did take the time last year to clean up the wheel wells, there was some paint bubling up.

I am not going to say these everyone can get 100000 miles but I honestly think it is fairly possible, as long as you change all your fluids at service intervals. Cummings and internationals, get up there and a Yota diesel should fly right by them. (for reliablity of cousre)


As for the price of sythedic oil, yer right you can rebuild a motor for cheaper than using synthedic it's hole life. My friends dad is an engine machinest, and has always said that, hopfully he is still doing it when the time comes to rebuild the 3B

lol


Aaah whatever

Cheers

[Jan-78FJ40]

where are the promised pictures?
PLEEEAAAASSE!