LJ78 startup issues

NWONTARIO · 10-28-09, 10:49 AM

Hello everyone, I'm a brand newb to the site here chock full of ignorance, but I want to learn, so please bear with me...
I recently purchased a 1991 LJ78 with 195, xxxkm out of Winnipeg. The truck seems in very good condition with no rust or other signs of abuse, but I do have some concerns.

1. Slow/ Uncomfortable highway travel.
I have had no problems with overheating, but noticed right away that the rpm's seemed high (around 2800) cruising home at 100km/h. Is this normal with a diesel engine, or more specifically the 2LT-TE? I have no problem with this as long as it's alright for the engine, but if there was any way to make it cruise at high speeds more comfortably I would definitely try it out.

2.Starup Issues
At first I had no problem, but as the temp. dropped outside I have been having a hard time to get the vehicle to start, having to feed it some throttle and hold it around 1100 rpm (with a thick cloud of black exhaust) for about 10 seconds before the vehicle idles normally. I have had the battery die on me three or four times, but I charged it up and it took off fine. I went to start it this morning and the engine wouldn't even turn over. The starter is engaging fine, but all I get is a loud clunk and then nothing. Tried tapping on the starter and boosting the vehicle to no avail.

What kind of battery have people had success with in these things? Also, I want to install an oil pan or block heater to take some strain off cold starts. What's the best way to go? Any advice with these or any other problems associated with the 2LT-TE would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Rowen in Ontario

simonliew · 10-28-09, 04:15 PM

Hi Rowen,
is the truck auto or 5 speed,l am not sure about the diff gearing,l think the one of them has lower gearing.What size tires yo uhave?
The hard start and having to give it throttle and the black smoke sounds like glow plugs to me.
The loud clank doesn't sound too good to me,l had a surf in my shop here 3 weeks ago,it was overheating,the guy towed it here,sit overnite,l went to start it in the morning,loud clank then nothing,took the golw plugs out,coolant shoot out from the hole,cracked head.
but you said yours wasn't overheating,l hope you can get it started'otherwise take the glowplugs out and see it will crankover.
Any 900 CCA batteries will do,l use interstate batteries.
l use lower rad hose heater or oilpan stickon heater
Simon
TLC import connection
Winnipeg
who did oyu buy the truck from?

NWONTARIO · 10-28-09, 04:30 PM

It's an automatic and I have the 235/75/15's that came on it. I was thinking of going bigger, but didn't know whether or not that was a good idea because I hear these trucks are underpowered?? New glowplugs were installed the day I picked it up, so I was told. I bought the truck from Adriana and Peter Lubas in West St. Paul and have contacted them to see if they have had any of these problems before.

grease_guzzler · 10-28-09, 07:12 PM

Congrats on the new ride!! The high rpm sounds a bit like its not going into overdrive...the lower end of the 2000 range seems like where it should be at 100km/h. And once you get sort out the startup/clunking noise issue, do everything possible to make sure that she doesn't overheat. A full set of gauges especially a pyrometer to actually see how hot she's running and ensure the cooling system is in good working order and turn up the boost and get a bigger exhaust to let the engine breathe better. The 2lte engine will go quite nicely, but you have to take care of it

NWONTARIO · 10-28-09, 09:08 PM

My initial reaction was that it wasn't going into OD as well, but that doesn't seem to be the issue. Would it be geared that low?

roscoFJ73 · 10-29-09, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NWONTARIO

Would it be geared that low?

Yes ,they are geared low and probably one of many reasons why they were not sold new in North America and didnt last long in Australia.

They really shine at bumping along a jungle road with a full load,rather than high speed freeways.
You never hear anyone from SE Asia or Africa complaining about the top speed.

NWONTARIO · 10-29-09, 08:21 AM

Well I can live with the low top speed, but I still can't get it started at the moment.

Phil in BC · 10-29-09, 08:42 AM

I installed a lower rad hose heater in my 74 and it works like a charm. No troubles starting the truck in -20 when plugged in. Without the heater, not so good. Good luck with your starting issues, I cant help you there. Welcome to MUD

Squash · 10-29-09, 08:46 AM

Hopefully your not hydro locked???
How is the radiator level?
Overfow?

Can you turn the engine manually...
Pull the starter...

Pull the glow plugs, this will allow compression the escape.
Good luck

simonliew · 10-29-09, 03:54 PM

remove the glowplugs and try cranking it.
Simon

motorcoach123 · 10-31-09, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NWONTARIO

It's an automatic and I have the 235/75/15's that came on it.

Hey Rowan
Congrats on entering the Landcruiser world! I noticed you said you had 15 inch tires .....my '90 Prado has 16'', as do most that I've seen around here. You might want to recheck them.
2800 rpm is definitely high at 100kph, depending on tire size.
I am running an Odyssey battery in my rig, great battery! Odyssey Canada - odyssey battery Canada, odyssey batteries, odyssey battery
How about some pics after you get these little things sorted out??

Gord

NWONTARIO · 11-02-09, 08:50 PM

I got the cruiser into the shop and we have figured out the problem is with the solenoid. Took the starter all apart and cleaned up all electrical contacts. It is starting for now, but my mechanic (who happens to be my uncle) told me it is probably just a temporary fix. I was wondering if anyone knew where I could get a solenoid repair kit or anything of that nature. I will be ordering a new alternator belt and some other things as well. Where's the best source in Canada for these JDM's??

I will get some pics up once I have her looking the way I want with a brush bar, safari rack, more aggressive tires...possibly a slight lift..etc.

Thanks again everyone. I'm extremely happy that I found this forum.

simonliew · 11-02-09, 09:07 PM

Hi,
you mean the two contacts in the solinoid,you can buy them at any starter repair shop.
l am an ARB dealer if you need liftkit,roofrack,bumper.
Simon
TLC winnipeg
There is a guy with a HJ61 in redlake and a couple with two Hilux surfs at Eagle lake near you.

crushers · 11-04-09, 01:42 AM

first, sad news. there is many other places to stick the money LONG before you go after cosmetic do dads.
get a pyro installed IMEDIATELY
get a larger exhaust installed to get rid of the exhaust heat
get a larger rad installed IMEDIATELY
get the EGR block off plates made and installed
increase the boost and leave the fuel alone, decrease the EGTs

you are driving a time bomb engine and failure to do the above will leave you stranded ... and not in your driveway.
i have seen the results first hand. when the head blows (and no, it will not be a head gasket) you will be looking at $4000 in repairs and another $2000 in upgrades. most ignore the advice and later post up about hte damages.
if you do not like what i say, ignore.

do a search on LJ78/2LTE/2LT and do some research. the rest of the truck is bullet proof but the engine is not.

then, if you have not blown the head in a year and you still love the truck THEN start doing the mods you want.
(hint: i just picked up a 1991 LJ78, the lady bought it against the advice, sunk $6000 into the head and turbo and then the bottom end cratered. in just over a year she had $22,000 invested. she stuck it up for $6000 and i bought it for $3000.)
they DO NOT hold their value.
and unless you drive conservatively AND do the above suggestions they you will be heading down the same road as her (and many others on Mud here).

<i can not beleive no one made these suggestions before now>

NWONTARIO · 11-04-09, 04:47 PM

That's quite the list of work....I planned to put a larger exhaust on an turn up the boost in the very near future, as well as the pyro. Where do I get a new rad and how big does it need to be? And I have no idea what EGT refers to (I have very little mechanical background)
Is it worth it to buy a whole new engine to swap into it? Is this possible/difficult? Where would I source one that is suitable?
I have read quite a bit about the 2LTE and I am aware of the overheating/ head problems. I didn't know this when I bought the truck, but I probably would have ignored it anyway because I HAD to have it. Now I am just left wondering what the best solution is for the long term. I do drive conservatively and I am willing to put some money into preventative measures, but I don't want a constant headache from it either. What do I do??

crushers · 11-04-09, 04:58 PM

okay,
so i read this and i get the idea you are a bugger for punishment. "I HAD to have it"...

4 core recore the rad.

i am installing a PZ/R141 into a LJ78 as we speak. it is not cheap but it solves the engine issues. you can install a 3B, 13BT, 1HZ, 1PZ, HDT into the LJ and the limit is your budget.

there is no long term cure for the L series problem. what i would do, if i was you, would be to keep an eye out for an old mine truck, a BJ70, a PZJ70 or a wrecked 80 series to swap into the LJ when the engine dies. this way you are not paying top dollar for the swap parts. but IT STILL WILL NOT BE CHEAP.

do the suggestions and watch the EGTs (Exhaust gas tempertures), if you do you might get some decent time out of the engine.

my second suggestion is do NOT invest money into it for "fun" mods till after the above is completed.

but

it is your money, your truck and your time... so do as you please.

cheers and best of luck.

<i know i am coming across as an ass but i am tired of seeing so many people still buying these time bombs.>

<< for the money you are about to invest you could have bought a decent HDJ81 or a HD 70 series>>

Radd Cruisers · 11-04-09, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crushers

first, sad news. there is many other places to stick the money LONG before you go after cosmetic do dads.
get a pyro installed IMEDIATELY
get a larger exhaust installed to get rid of the exhaust heat
get a larger rad installed IMEDIATELY
get the EGR block off plates made and installed
increase the boost and leave the fuel alone, decrease the EGTs

[...]

<i can not beleive no one made these suggestions before now>

I'm with Wayne... I'm just tired of chasing this one around all the time...

~John

JuanJ · 11-05-09, 03:30 PM

Hello,

Why not investing in, say, a 13B-T, and kissing the 2L goodbye?

Just my opinion.

JuanJ

simonliew · 11-05-09, 04:22 PM

Hi,
May be yo ushould just buy my HZJ77.
turbo inyercoolered,lifted,bumper,winch,runs on used cooking oil.
Simon
Winnipeg

NWONTARIO · 11-05-09, 06:38 PM

Wayne, thanks for the advice. Considering the fact that the LJ was over my budget to begin with, I think my best bet is to put it up for sale. I thought I was buying a high quality, "bulletproof" vehicle that would run forever with proper maintenance. I am going to university right now and don't have money to do what this vehicle needs.
Simon, I am extremely jealous of the HZJ77. That is exactly what I want.
So.....anyone want to buy a Prado??

crushers · 11-06-09, 12:31 AM

how long have you had it?
who did you buy it from?
was there a warranty with the purchase?
what did you pay for it?

you are expereiencing the same frustration that many LJ/LN buyers have and are. it is not a pleasant feeling. the next painful experience is how you will be getting rid of it. if you sell it to someone else then you are just screwing with them the way the seller screwed with you perpetuating the frustration and distrust. chances are you will take a bath if you sell it since many of the LJ owners sit on these for ages to sell.

so what do you do?

i would contact the seller, if a dealer or curber, and find out if any warranty came with the sale IN WRITING. email confirmation is fine since it shows intent. convince him to buy the vehicle back if it has been less than a couple weeks. it won't be easy but these people have to stop bringing in shit and flogging it on the unsuspecting.

or

you can sell it to another unsuspecting soul.

or

you can drive it very carefully and hope it stands up till you get out of school.

the rest of the truck is bullet proof, it is the head (cooling system design) that is the issue. in rural Ontario you might get lucky, we don't have long gentle grades, we don't have long steep grades, we don't have long head winds to fight (strong ones we do but not an hour and a half at 110 steady bucking a head wind) so if you don't tow, stay off the 400 north and south, install the pyro and drive by it instead of the speedo and just drive carefully then you MIGHT get some use out of it.

up to you.

if you sell it then go find a Pajero, short wheelbase that is in realy clean condition and you will be happy. they are better on fuel, better performance and reliable. i have sold a number of the mits 2.5 diesels over the years and NO warranty issues ... period. i stopped bringing in the LJ/LN when the warranties were costing me more than the profit by 2 fold.

best of luck in what ever you decide.

cheers

NWONTARIO · 11-06-09, 07:54 AM

I have had the vehicle for about a month. I bought it from a private owner in Winnipeg. I know for sure that there is no warranty... I think they must have heard about the issues related to the vehicle and just dumped it on me. Anyway, no hard feelings; I should have done more research. I ended up paying $8000.
If I was to install the new exhaust, pyro, turn up the boost, and put in a bigger rad, can I sell it with peace of mind? What is the typical price range of these vehicles?

crushers · 11-06-09, 08:05 AM

used to sell for between $14K and $16K for very clean low km dwon to $10K for higher mileage and rougher shape.
now they sell for between $10K to $6K if they are still running.
if you bought for $8K then just drive it carefully. on second thought, i looked up Dryden on the map and you have some pretty good hills there and in the middle of no where.
i think you will have an issue with selling due to location.

i am not your conscience so you have to do what you feel it right.

i would say stick in a pyro and see what temps you are running at. if you stay below 1000C then you might get your monies worth out of her but keep the pyro temp down and the water temp down (no more than 1/2 way). maybe install an after market water temp gauge as well since the factory are great for telling you WHEN IT IS TOO LATE.

sorry, i wish i could be more positive...

best of luck in your decision.

Clint79 · 11-06-09, 08:29 AM

wow not that we got these prados in aus well ive seen 2 but there imported
It really sounds like these motors will last about as long as a motor with no oil
did they have probs with the motors from new is or it a age thing
Whats the motors model/id number/name were they avl in hiluxs or anything

pradocruzer · 11-06-09, 09:14 AM

Hey Nmontairo. With 195,xxx km's your 2lte it has probably had head surgery already. The so called updated head is slightly better but still has a tendency to over heat and crack. Like Crushers said put in a ect and temp gauge. I use Prosport gauges and like them a lot. dberwin a member here put me on to the gauges and there great.
Does your A/C work?? You can also remove your condenser in front of your rad and mount a 16 inch electric fan. Put a switch in your cab that you can use on hot days, long climbs ect. I use a 82 degree thermostat instead of a 88 degree. John at Rocky Mountian Import can help you out with that. The 82 degree thermostat I feel helps the most of all and also make sure your coolant is in good shape. Another good idea is to increase your boost for the power lacking problem. I run twelve lbs of boost and it seems to like it. You can buy a boost adj valve off ebay for cheap. These are all cheap enough to try. Drive it for a while and see if you like it. I love mine.

crushers · 11-06-09, 09:18 AM

the problem is that in Japan the speed limit is slower, the hills not as long and the engines can still arrive from Japan with cracked heads.
then the trucks come to Canada where the roadways are long, the hills long and the speeds we drive are higher. so a truck in japan might see 90 k/h for short periods, here in BC Alberta Sask and Manitoba they will be pushed to 120 and sometimes 140 for extended periods. in BC the hills are steep and long, the roads in the flat lands can be gentle but steady uphill bucking a head wind.
we drive them the way we are used to driving and they can not stand up to the steady abuse.
in rural ontario, Quebec, and east then they MIGHT last a bit longer but then you have the 401, 400, 407 and once again higher speeds are expected and BANG there goes the head.

the L series are shit engines, simple as that.

but people still buy then thinking "it is a Toyota so it must be good" and THEN do a search.

LN, LJ are the model numbers to look for and stay away from. the KZ are already starting to be imported and some are cracking the heads as well.

in the end it is the purchaser money ...

NWONTARIO · 11-06-09, 04:02 PM

Thanks for the advice, pradocruzer, and Wayne. I have it up for sale to see if anyone is interested but in the mean time (and it sounds like there will be a long wait) I will install the exhaust, pyro, turn up the boost, and look into the other options such as a bigger rad, electric fan, and lower thermostat.
Around here I am fine to drive 90km/h on the highway. It's definitely not the 401. I prefer to drive 90 max with it anyway because anything more than that and it sounds like the engine is working way too hard. Pretty straightforward. I have to go to BC for school in January, though. I am wondering what the best strategy for driving in the mountains would be...
BTW, Wayne, the whole "it's a Toyota, it must be good" is PRECISELY the logic I used...

crushers · 11-06-09, 04:38 PM

the best way to drive the mountains is using the pyro as your guide and TAKE YOUR TIME/ if the pyro starts to climb beyond 1200F then drop a gear and slow down a bit. even a slight decrease on the throttle will make a difference to the readings. the higher rpms will purge the exhaust gasses quicker, the slower speed will keep the water temp down.
remember, water temp and exhaust temps are completely unrelated so you can be running 900F EGT and still go into the red with coolant temps. the reverse is true, you can be perfectly fine with the water temp but the EGTs can be in the 1400F.
Rogers pass, Golden, Coqu all eat the heads as well as bucking the headwinds on the Prairies. remeber you will be going up hill steady and the prevailing winds are from the west so you have a double whammy when crossing the flat lands so BE CAREFUL.
finally, (as if there is such a thing) if you push it then a $4K - $6K bill is going to be yours when the head goes.

<i would drive down here, ship the truck by train from Toronto to Vancouver and fly out but that is expensive as well. $950 for rail and $300 for a flight but at least you know the truck will be there in one piece...>

NWONTARIO · 11-06-09, 10:15 PM

Toronto is about 22 hours on the highway, so I think I'll take my chances and drive carefully out to BC. I only have to make it to Cranbrook...don't think there are that many high passes to get there(??)

pradocruzer · 11-06-09, 11:15 PM

Hey Rowen. Sorry to hear about your first RHD purchase, even though nothing wrong has happened. I do agree a EGT and Coolant Temp gauge should be installed immediately. After the gagues are installed you can then learn how to dirve the truck and not let the engine heat up to much. I have been driving mine for 3 years and I'm going on my forth. I just got back from a 5400km trip with my truck and one other truck from Vancouver B.C to the Yukon and back in nine days (we were hunting and got a nice Bull Moose). I replaced my cylinder head every 1000k's and got great mileage on the way back because I lightened the load of five cylinder heads. Ha Ha Ha just kidding the truck ran great but a slow go.

If you don't feel good about the trip out then don't take the truck. If you do, like Wayne said, take your time and don't get frustrated.
The only great advise I can give is please do not be afraid of your vehicle blowing up in your face every time you start it up no matter what car or truck you own. Trust me catastrophic failure can happen to any vehicle. It would suck to live in fear.
Here are a a couple of pictures of catastrophic failure.
The first is a 2002 Kia Reo with 68,000 km's. She was driving about 100km's an hour when the timing belt let go. Around $3700.00 later I installed used motor. The second was a Pontiac Transport with 131,000 kms's. The oil pick up tube fell of the oil pump while going down the Hope Princeton and bam a $4800.00 installed long block. Ball joints, cylinder heads and gaskets, transmissions, rear ends ect... can cost thousands even if you keep your vehicle in tip top shape. While selling your truck take care of it. Relax and enjoy I hope the best of luck for you .

Take care Jeff.