[buggyboy7]

Rowen, I'm also in this rather sorry club and have been through the pain and joy of 2L-TE/Prado ownership. As the guys are saying install the gauges and use them. I have done some major trips in very hot weather and high altitudes and found with a close eye on the EGT and H2O temp the key to keeping them down was keeping the revs up. One thing I don't see mentioned often that can be done quite cheaply is increasing the speed of your existing fan. This is done by putting a higher viscosity oil in the fan clutch. It may suck up a HP or two but I can't really notice the differance. Of course an electric fan like Pradocruzer mentioned is good too. Good luck with yours!

Wayne or John, What's the best way to bring up the boost? I shimmed the waste gate actuator over a bit and picked up a little. It scares me when that engine light comes on.

Thanks
Keith

[crushers]

the light is not an issue, if you have a boost gauge then (well this is what i did) is just disconnect the waste gauge activator line completely and see what boost you make. if need be then install a $5 boost controller (do a search here and you will see what i am talking about).

[pradocruzer]

Hey Keith. I use a NXS boost controller from Ebay shown below it's cheap, simple and easy. The ECM on your 2LTE is capable of controlling the fuel ratio to about 14 lbs of boost max. If you exceed about 14 lbs of boost the ECM goes into a fail safe fuel control mode and in my truck it feels like the e brake comes on slightly and there is a power loss. When the ECM see's an over boost situation, it dosn't know if a vacuum hose failed, or the boost pressure sensor has failed ect.. so it runs the fuel system in a fail safe mode to stop engine damage. At this point the orange check engine light comes on and then goes out when the boost pressure is back within the max limit. If you run 13 lbs of boost you will see a initial spike of 14- 14.5 and then it will settle to 13 where you set it at. 13 is about the most you can get without the check engine light coming on (at least in my truck). If you buy a boost controller I recommend you use a boost gauge or fuel pressure gauge to set the boost controller to the the boost you wan't to run. If you don't have one then install the boost controller and make the check engine light come on and then back off till the light dosn't come on this will be your max boost the ECM can handle. I run around 11-12 lbs of boost. If I run a slight bit more I see no performance gains and I feel that my turbo dosn't need the extra stress for no reason. Also rember that the higher boost pressure you run the hotter the intake air charge will be that's why an intercooler is a great idea.
Good luck.

[pradocruzer]

Sorry I forgot to add that I'am playing with an idea to put in a bleed off valve inline with the vacuum hose to the boost pressure sensor. The idea is to bleed off a pound or two of boost so the ECM thinks I'am running 11/12 pounds of boost but in reality I'am running 13/14 pounds of boost I don't know if anyone has tried this but less fuel + more boost should = cooler 2LTE. When I get around to this I will let you know. Hope I don't open a can of worms!!
Take care

[buggyboy7]

Thanks guys,

And yet another LC project to impress the wife.

[grease_guzzler]

Originally Posted by pradocruzer

Sorry I forgot to add that I'am playing with an idea to put in a bleed off valve inline with the vacuum hose to the boost pressure sensor. The idea is to bleed off a pound or two of boost so the ECM thinks I'am running 11/12 pounds of boost but in reality I'am running 13/14 pounds of boost I don't know if anyone has tried this but less fuel + more boost should = cooler 2LTE. When I get around to this I will let you know. Hope I don't open a can of worms!!
Take care

Some of the australian surfs are doing something similar Toyota 4WD Surf Owners :: View topic - Fuel economy mod for $2
I think an in cab rheostat off the boost pressure sensor would be a nice way to control fuel delivery and hopefully lower temps

[pradocruzer]

Hey grease_guzzler. I red what they are doing in Oz. The difference between my idea and theirs is I want to be able to dump off boost in quarter pound intervals through the whole boost range. If my ECM see's 2 pounds of boost I am really producing three pounds. The ECM will be one pound behind all the time or what ever I set it to in quarter pound intervals. The last thing I want is a major lack of power. I find that my engine has a tendency to over fuel especially under heavy load at full boost. I will try a mechanical pressure bleed and try to fine tune with my EGT. If this works a rheostat might be a great answer. There is no need waste fuel, it only makes bad economy and excessive heat.
Thanks for your input.

[NWONTARIO]

Sorry to be off topic here...well, back to the original topic I guess...
I thought my starting issues would be solved by the new contacts and plunger, but they have been installed and I still have a prado that won't turn over half the time. The system worked flawlessly on the bench, but once it was put back in the vehicle, it would go back to the same old problem. Does anyone have any other ideas/ experienced a similar problem????

[pradocruzer]

Hey NWONTARIO. Get some one in the cab of your truck and make them start the truck until it fails. Once you hear the clunk and the motor dose not turn over don't let them release the key. While the clunk has happened and the key is in the start position (key fully turned forward) tap on the starter motor with a hammer if it starts right away suspect the starter motor, brushes so on and so forth. Bench testing is great but there is no load on the starter. Lot of guys will jam a two by four in the gear to simulate a load. I have done this lots but then stuck it in the car and the starter still dosn't work. Load is hard to simulate. Try this first and if you have no luck let me know. I also agree contacts usually are the problem.
Good luck.

[HZ Cruiser]

~~~~simonliew~~~~

How much are you selling your HZ77 for??

I have a HZ73 that I'm considering selling if I can find a nice 77 to replace it with.

I'm looking for something with a bit more room for the family.

Your truck is VERY nice!!!!

Cheers

[NWONTARIO]

We have hammered on the starter with the key in start position. Did nothing. The starter has been completely disassembled, inspected, and re-installed. It seemed fine. Before the contacts were put in you couldn't even boost the truck. With new contacts it seems that more power will get it to turn over. I'm thinking there is a drain on my battery somewhere. Any common problems with this? I'm getting a new, larger battery today. Also, any ideas why I get a big cloud of black smoke and rough starts?? I have a block heater...doesn't seem to alleviate the problem.

[crushers]

rough starts:
have you tested the glow system? even plugged in you still need a glow to start first time of the day.
have you cleaned ALL the connections between the battery and the starter?
have you load tested the battery?

[pradocruzer]

Hey NWONTARIO. If you have a volt meter place the leads across the battery. Have someone try to start the truck and hold it in the start position. After a few seconds read the volt meter. you should see a voltage above ten volts. Now go to the starter positive (with the positive volt meter lead) and put the negative volt meter lead to a good clean spot on the engine block. Have your friend hold it in the start position again for the same few seconds as before. the volt meter should read the same as the first test +/- up to .5 of a volt max. if this is true your positive and negative cables are fine. Now place the positive lead of the volt meter and put it on the other side of the starter contact (the short wire that goes into the starter motor) and do the same few second test. You should read the same as the first test +/- up to .5 of a volt. If this is good then the contacts are fine. To do a test on your battery to see if you have a draw disconnect the negative battery cable and put your volt meter positive on your negative battery post and the negative lead of your volt meter on the negative battery cable and look at the meter and see if the meter says a voltage. if the voltage is above 3 to 5 volts (some will argue) you may have a draw. Your ECM and stereo have to hold a memory. If there is a draw pull your courtesy light fuse out first and then pull fuses out until the volts go to zero on your meter still on the battery. If you find the fuse that kills the volts on the meter the draw should be on that circuit.
Also don't forget to disconnect the alternator it can also draw. Before you buy a new battery, borrow a battery from a friend and stuff it in. even a small battery that is fully charged will fire the truck up. If the battery is old just replace it as will be a headache in the future. All this will test the starting system then you can move on to the black smoke ect.. Oh and I have also seen a seizing a/c, alt,power steering pump stop the starter moter from starting the engine.
Good luck again hope this helped.

[crushers]

ummm, there is a ground cable from the starter bolt to the frame, right?

[pradocruzer]

ummm, The starter is case grounded hence all the bolts holding it to the engine block (as long as they are tight).The ground strap you are talking about is not attached to the starter but the bracket that holds the starter at the back (starters have loads of torque). You can undo the ground strap (that is actually grounding the frame from the engine) and give it to your neighbor lol. That will not stop the truck from starting. There is a main ground from the battery to the engine, from the battery to the body, and from the engine to the frame. This way engineers can ground almost anywhere on the vehicle and not have to send twenty feet of wire back to a battery or ground strips. They also serve a purpose of rust controll and bonding (marine term). This saves money. Were all on the same team here on ih8mud I hope. I love your raw criticism and your to the point attitude also with that human dictionary thing about cruisers you have, relax and enjoy.

[crushers]

huh?? did i srep on your toes somehow? if i did, sorry.
the LJ78 i just tore down had a ground from the front of the block to the battery AND a ground bolt from the starter to the frame, as does the HZ, PZ, 3B etc... hence my question.
it was not a dig at you in any way shape or form.

cheers and peace

[pradocruzer]

Sorry Wayne. You seem to criticize all Prado owners that have a 2LTE. No hard feelings.

[crushers]

nah, i critize the 2LTE, not the owners.

<remember, i owned a number of these shit engines at one time so i would be critizie myself at the same time.>