FZJ 75 distributor problem

Hodgy · 08-30-09, 12:04 AM

Hi guys, in the lodge here we have an FZJ 75 with the 3F 4.5L petrol carburettor engine.

There's a problem I've found with the distributor.

When you leave it to run at any temperature it runs like a bag of nails, running on 5 cylinders. No. 1 doesn't fire, no spark.

But, if I push the whole dizzy (not just the cap) towards the engine, then it runs perfectly. All the mounting bolts are tight etc but there's a small amount of movement, 1/8" maybe, in all directions.

Is there a bearing or something in there that can be changed or do we need a reconditioned distributor??

Thanks all

Joe

roscoFJ73 · 08-30-09, 01:34 AM

The engine must be a 1FZ carb model if its a 4.5. If its a 3F it is a 4.0 and the vehicle would be a FJ75

Im a little confused as to why the whole dizzy is moving if the bolts are tight.
Got the right bolt? A bolt that is too long can feel tight but wont clamp it in place.
Or is there something underneath the dizzy that is not allowing it to sit flat?

When the bearing is bad you get movement on the shaft only from my experience.

Clint79 · 08-30-09, 08:11 AM

What year is the 75 mate?
Not to be funny but sometimes its a bit hard to see that clamp when covered in mud and snot does it actually have the clamp and you not just tightening the bolt with out clamp or if it has it which is most likely can you rebend the clamp for a better tightness, if its a 3 f motor that is

For some reason i was thinking only Venezuela got the carbd 1fz? is this right

Hodgy · 08-30-09, 08:30 AM

Hi guys

According to the registration papers (could easily be wrong) its 1998.

The decals on the car say 4.5L and on the rocker cover it says 3F.

Engine number is 3F-0190351, Chassis number is FZJ75-0028406

It's left hand drive and we think the cruiser came from Yemen....middle east anyway

Engine is clean as a whistle and the clamp that holds the dizzy at the correct timing setting is there and works fine, no circular movement. There's also a bolt into the block at the base of the dizzy which is tightened right down to the block....

Thanks so far!!

Clint79 · 08-30-09, 11:07 AM

The first 2 pics are of the motor the 75 should have either the EFI or carb version but the 3 pic of blue motor is a 3f and prsume thats what you have the yellow rag in the side is where the dizzy is??

roscoFJ73 · 08-30-09, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hodgy

Hi guys

According to the registration papers (could easily be wrong) its 1998.

The decals on the car say 4.5L and on the rocker cover it says 3F.

Engine number is 3F-0190351, Chassis number is FZJ75-0028406

It's left hand drive and we think the cruiser came from Yemen....middle east anyway

Engine is clean as a whistle and the clamp that holds the dizzy at the correct timing setting is there and works fine, no circular movement. There's also a bolt into the block at the base of the dizzy which is tightened right down to the block....

Thanks so far!!

It sounds as though someone has swapped engines as the engine number and chassis number contradict each other.
This is the 3F in my FJ73

I cant see how there would be movement if its tightened right down as you say.
Has it been removed from the engine and inspected?

roscoFJ73 · 08-30-09, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clint79

For some reason i was thinking only Venezuela got the carbd 1fz? is this right

Africa has them as well and probably parts of the middle east.

lulo · 08-30-09, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hodgy

According to the registration papers (could easily be wrong) its 1998.

The decals on the car say 4.5L and on the rocker cover it says 3F.

Engine number is 3F-0190351, Chassis number is FZJ75-0028406

It's left hand drive and we think the cruiser came from Yemen....middle east anyway

...is very rare!

I do not understand as a FZJ-75 has installed a 3F???

Maybe they changed the engine in Yemen, but changing a 1FZ by a 3F...

If you take some pictures of the motor and the VIN PLATE we could help you.

Good Luck Mate!!!

Hodgy · 08-31-09, 03:57 AM

Hey guys, can't post pics as the internet here is steam powered at best....ZambiaBand(tm)....awesome

Anyway, looking at the pics we definitely have a 3F engine, I just checked the engine number on the block and it's the same as the one on the papers, 3F-0190351, but the engine number on the VIN is a 1FZ-### one. So I guess the engine has been changed?!

Makes sense when I look at the engine, the radiator hoses are non-standard looking and the whole installation looks kinda bodged together....

So anyway, it's a definitely a 3F engine....

I can take the dizzy out no problem, any ideas what to look for? Shaft play, loose anything I guess? I've taken the dizzy apart from the top down to the bob-weights before trying to find the cause of the rough running, nothing seems amis inside. It's got new points, new HT leads, new rotor arm, new dizzy cap and new spark leads. All in the name of trying to find why it ran badly, thats when I found out that moving the dizzy solves it. It's now running round perfectly with a piece of wood jamming dizzy towards the engine

Still needs sorting though...cos right now...

so far guys

roscoFJ73 · 08-31-09, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hodgy

D

Still needs sorting though...cos right now...

so far guys

The base of the dizzy is flat,the engine part that it sits on is flat. I cant see how it would move if it was bolted down tight.

You do have it pushed all the way down dont you? If they dont go down the last 3-4 mmm the oil pump or something dont work.
It has killed landcruiser F engines before.

Last time I had a bad dizzy was about 30 years ago on my Hillman Hunter

The bearing had gone and it was impossible to keep the points set as the shaft had about 4-5mm movement.
From memory the 3F shaft is allowed a maximum of 1mm play at the top.

.

Hodgy · 08-31-09, 09:51 AM

Cheers Mr Kelly I'll pull the dizzy and have a deeks tomorrow.

Could just be there's some dirt between the mating surfaces of block and distributor base I suppose.

Hillman Hunter, now there's a classic motor

Super or a GT....or boggo?

Clint79 · 08-31-09, 10:01 AM

MAybe you could hunt for a electronic dizzy if yours turns out to be stuffed

roscoFJ73 · 08-31-09, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hodgy

Hillman Hunter, now there's a classic motor

Super or a GT....or boggo?

It wasnt a GT,just the standard model. Never had any problems except the electrical system which had some basic wiring fault and cused the generator to blow every few months.
Wrote it off on the way home from a party one night

Hodgy · 09-01-09, 10:04 AM

Ok so no problems with the bolt or the clamp that holds the distributor down. Both mating surfaces are clean, flat and smooth.

Externally the dizzy looks fine, nothing obviously wrong.

Shaft play is sub-1mm so no worries there either.

Perhaps I should explain a bit further.....in the 'normal' position I get the rough running with No.1 cylinder not receiving a spark. It's not a HT lead or spark plug problem as I can get the No.1 HT lead terminal to arc if I hold it near to a different terminal on the distibutor. None of the other leads will arc if I hold them near the No.1 terminal though....so...not a HT lead problem.

That was my first thought as when I pushed down on the No.1 HT lead terminal I got good running. But then I noticed that pushing down on that terminal also made the dizzy move ever so slightly towards the engine, and that just by pushing the dizzy bodily towards the engine I could also make the engine run right.

It's worth noting that when I push the dizzy it's more like putting sideways pressure on it rather than actually moving it. There is no 'loose' play which makes me think that the clamp is doing what it should.

I don't get what's going on yet...but I'm working on it!

Idea's so far...

Moving the distributor housing towards the engine decreases the points gap...shaft stays where it is but the points move further away......but that shouldnt lead to only one cylinder loosing spark.....decreased points gap to check anyway, still no spark at no.1

Moving the distibutor towards the engine increases the gap between the rotor arm and the distributor cap terminal for no.1 HT lead. Why would increasing the gap produce a spark though? No rubbing or catching marks inside the cap either.

Anyone any other ideas??

Joe