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Old 08-25-09, 11:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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need advice for cruise control in 24v bj71

Yep,
Looking for some advice on putting a cruise control into my 24v CDM BJ71. It's a BJ70 really, but the vin names it as a bj71. I don't know if it is in fact different from a bj70.

But,... it is 24v and I would like to get a cruise control for it. I searched and the one thread I found had a bunch of name calling basically saying only losers would want cruise control on a LandCruiser.

I plead guilty to that. I plan on driving this rig hundreds of miles a day for days on end. And cruise control allows me to do that. Without C.C. it is a sciatica inducing torture fest.

So any input is welcome.
TIA
JonB


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87 bj70, turboed, 35'ed, arb'ed, slidered, winched, 4x4llabs rear bumper & arb front, HF'ed & VHF'ed.
97 40th fzj80 w/difflocks, cdl switch & pin 7 mod, Hanna sliders, 2.5" ome lift, 1" body lift, rear drawer system on 285/75-16's.
87 sas 4runner- air lockers, dual cases, beadlocked 35" mtr's, waggy & cheby springs, sliders, 8274 winch, etc...sold to build a heep.
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Old 08-26-09, 04:25 AM   #2 (permalink)
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why not use the lawnmower idle control? works well enough for me

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Old 08-26-09, 06:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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nice man thats a pretty funky idea

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Old 08-27-09, 07:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm not comfortable using the hand throttle for a c.c. although I have done it. But you are so hosed if you get a blow-out or anything else that requires both hands on the wheel.

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87 bj70, turboed, 35'ed, arb'ed, slidered, winched, 4x4llabs rear bumper & arb front, HF'ed & VHF'ed.
97 40th fzj80 w/difflocks, cdl switch & pin 7 mod, Hanna sliders, 2.5" ome lift, 1" body lift, rear drawer system on 285/75-16's.
87 sas 4runner- air lockers, dual cases, beadlocked 35" mtr's, waggy & cheby springs, sliders, 8274 winch, etc...sold to build a heep.
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Old 08-27-09, 07:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Depending on which cruise control you want to get why dont you run it through a 24V - 12V voltage reducer. Thats what I run all my 12V acc through. The cruise controls I have seen use magnets on the tailshaft to read the speed and a throttle accuator to control speed. They dont need to be wired into any existing electonics.

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Old 09-02-09, 06:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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just use the hand throttle, if something happens push in the clutch keep both hands on the wheel, and turn the throttle down when you're in a safe situation.... it's not really it's purpose, but it does work....

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Old 09-02-09, 09:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Winkworth View Post
just use the hand throttle, if something happens push in the clutch keep both hands on the wheel, and turn the throttle down when you're in a safe situation.... it's not really it's purpose, but it does work....
Yeah I've done that, for a lot of miles. But I don't like it.

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87 bj70, turboed, 35'ed, arb'ed, slidered, winched, 4x4llabs rear bumper & arb front, HF'ed & VHF'ed.
97 40th fzj80 w/difflocks, cdl switch & pin 7 mod, Hanna sliders, 2.5" ome lift, 1" body lift, rear drawer system on 285/75-16's.
87 sas 4runner- air lockers, dual cases, beadlocked 35" mtr's, waggy & cheby springs, sliders, 8274 winch, etc...sold to build a heep.
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Old 09-05-09, 10:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Winkworth View Post
just use the hand throttle, if something happens push in the clutch keep both hands on the wheel, and turn the throttle down when you're in a safe situation.... it's not really it's purpose, but it does work....
I would REALLY advise not using the hand throttle, a few years back I went to sleep at the wheel after a very long ( 9 hour drive ) I was using the hand throttle as a cruise control. I went off the road on a steep shoulder, very frightening experiance. With the clutch in the engine was screaming and I nearly rolled the vehicle after blowing the front tyre after hitting a timber road post.
Spending a few bucks will make it safer all round. The option of cruise disengage when tapping the brake or be able to accelorate by dropping a gear is a very valuable option.

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