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Old 05-16-08, 06:11 AM   #1
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HZJ 78 turbo diesel No staying power

Hello there you lot.

I have a HZJ 78 Turbo diesel troop carrier which has done about 130000 kms in the NT of Australia. I put a safari turbo on about 5 yrs ago and it has been going like a rocket.

Over the last few months I have been having power and rev troubles. Vehicle will start off at about 120 to 130kms an hour, at about 2900 revs. Slowly but surely the vehicle will slow down till I can only achieve 2000 revs in all gears so reducing speed to about 80kmh esp while towing my boat.

I have changed fuel filters, mucked around checking there is no air in the system by opening an injector etc, but all to no avail.

Any one able to offer me a hand here? Its peak barra season and traveling 400 ks at 80 kmh is not fun.

Thanks
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Old 05-16-08, 06:57 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by constablechris View Post
Hello there you lot.

I have a HZJ 78 Turbo diesel troop carrier which has done about 130000 kms in the NT of Australia. I put a safari turbo on about 5 yrs ago and it has been going like a rocket.

Over the last few months I have been having power and rev troubles. Vehicle will start off at about 120 to 130kms an hour, at about 2900 revs. Slowly but surely the vehicle will slow down till I can only achieve 2000 revs in all gears so reducing speed to about 80kmh esp while towing my boat.

I have changed fuel filters, mucked around checking there is no air in the system by opening an injector etc, but all to no avail.

Any one able to offer me a hand here? Its peak barra season and traveling 400 ks at 80 kmh is not fun.

Thanks
Have you had the pump checked lately? They are ok cold ,but when the pump warms up it loses pressure.
Yours sounds a bit young for pump problems,but it has the symptoms.
The everyday high speed wont help

I would also check the mesh filter in the pump where the fuel line plugs in and the fuel pick up in the tank


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Old 05-16-08, 07:45 AM   #3
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do what Rosco says and i have had great results in adding a feeder fuel pump to my turbo systems.

right now your pump has to pull and push, the feeder pump allows the original fuel pump to just feed...big difference.


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Old 05-16-08, 08:27 AM   #4
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Wayne, what kind of fuel pump are you using?


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Old 05-16-08, 08:34 AM   #5
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i will have to go look but it was a generic from NAPA... 12V.

i put one on the HZJTI40 i am building and WOW!! it moves nicely.


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Old 05-16-08, 07:33 PM   #6
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Thanks gents

Thanks for the info gents. i will give both theories a go.
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Old 05-17-08, 10:26 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by crushers View Post
i will have to go look but it was a generic from NAPA... 12V.

i put one on the HZJTI40 i am building and WOW!! it moves nicely.
When I get a 1HZ or 1HD-T installed into something it will be a Walbro for me. Used to be the 6065. The whole 6000 line has been retired: Walbro Series 6000 Fuel Pumps

Here is an old thread which has some interesting links to discussions from 4-7 years ago from around the world on pusher pumps on the 1HD-T. Same idea for the 1HZ. http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-...mp-walbro.html

hth's

gb

Last edited by Greg_B; 05-17-08 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 05-17-08, 02:23 PM   #8
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am i right in thinking that this extra inline pump can alleviate the strain on my 13bt factory pump and thus increase the performance of my 13bt?


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Old 05-17-08, 09:20 PM   #9
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am i right in thinking that this extra inline pump can alleviate the strain on my 13bt factory pump and thus increase the performance of my 13bt?
If you were running extra filters, or something down to 2 micron I would say it might be an idea. Stickboy had to run a pusher pump with the 13BT when he had two filters in line. The 13BT and 12HT fuel pump is cam driven (it's in the manual fuel pump body hanging off the side of the injection pump) and I don't know that there would be much gain if you were running a stock setup. But there might be...

Where this seems the right thing to do is with the rotory pumps. Especially the Bosch VE style. There are a number of reasons, one of which is the rotory pump uses fuels as the lubricant, unlike the inline...which use engine oil. Apparently you don't want too much pressure...a couple lbs post filter and pre pump is supposed to be the ticket.

hth's

gb
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Old 05-17-08, 10:21 PM   #10
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Ive never tried a pusher pump with the rotary or the inline pump, but if you pump the primer on the inline while it is running the idle speed increases... Maybe too much pressure could cause over-fueling?
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Old 05-18-08, 10:55 AM   #11
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Ive never tried a pusher pump with the rotary or the inline pump, but if you pump the primer on the inline while it is running the idle speed increases... Maybe too much pressure could cause over-fueling?
Dunno. Check out some of the links in the old thread referenced for some discussion on other lists that have been saved and lumped together by WJM.

hth's

gb
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Old 05-18-08, 10:29 PM   #12
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Have you had the pump checked lately? They are ok cold ,but when the pump warms up it loses pressure.
Yours sounds a bit young for pump problems,but it has the symptoms.
The everyday high speed wont help

I would also check the mesh filter in the pump where the fuel line plugs in and the fuel pick up in the tank
I just had this very simular problem with I was in baha California with my 97 HZJ75. Bottom line I check everything it got to point when I could not get any power to 2k and it ended up being the injector pump. I am very confident you have the same problem. I got mine from a great company outside of Sydney.

Reliable Diesel Fuel injection is the name of the place he has thousands of rebuilts in stock as well as new, injectors, you name it. Here is the number 02 9548 2380 NSW

Cheers,

Michael
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Old 05-19-08, 01:19 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by tlcruiserman View Post
I just had this very simular problem with I was in baha California with my 97 HZJ75. Bottom line I check everything it got to point when I could not get any power to 2k and it ended up being the injector pump. I am very confident you have the same problem. I got mine from a great company outside of Sydney.

Reliable Diesel Fuel injection is the name of the place he has thousands of rebuilts in stock as well as new, injectors, you name it. Here is the number 02 9548 2380 NSW

Cheers,

Michael

My local diesel shop says it is usually the plunger that goes 1st. Then all the bits that are connected to it go next.

The vehicles from up north(here) with the long hot roads tend to wear their pumps out quicker


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1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy
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HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(
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Old 05-19-08, 05:25 AM   #14
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Michael, did you replace the pump yourself ot have someone do it for you?

Louis


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Old 05-19-08, 10:00 PM   #15
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Michael, did you replace the pump yourself ot have someone do it for you?

Louis
I did it myself, actually I did it twice, to prove it was the pump I pulled one from my 99 HJZ/75 PU (which is still being put together) pulled the bad one from my 97 HZJ75 Troopy and put in the good in, sure enough worked fine, only the replacment one was newer and did not have tach pickup. Once I got a new one then I put them both back no problem, once you do it that much it is like second nature

I think a 1HZ is pretty easy to change out.

Cheers,

Michael
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Old 05-20-08, 06:33 AM   #16
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OK, thanks veyr much - I thought so. I'll be replacing mine soon.

Thanks again.

Louis


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Old 05-20-08, 07:46 AM   #17
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OK, thanks veyr much - I thought so. I'll be replacing mine soon.

Thanks again.

Louis
If the pump has been on for some time ,they can be jammed on so tight they will really test you.
If this is the case ,use the best puller you can find. The shop that loaned me a puller said its best to get the puller tight till it starts to bend and hit the pump shaft with a hammer and drift.
Of course you may have dream run like tlcruiserman


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FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX
1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy
2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks
33 in BFG A/T
HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(
Volvo 740 GL
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Old 05-28-08, 10:19 AM   #18
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Run, Fuel Conditioner all the time and your pump whether it is inline or a radial will last the life of the BLOCK , Most VE style pumps ie 6BT C had lift pumps before the radial they were a Diaphram type that ran off of the camshaft


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Old 05-30-08, 02:47 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by roscoFJ73 View Post
If the pump has been on for some time ,they can be jammed on so tight they will really test you.
If this is the case ,use the best puller you can find. The shop that loaned me a puller said its best to get the puller tight till it starts to bend and hit the pump shaft with a hammer and drift.
Of course you may have dream run like tlcruiserman
I will say I completely agree with you, I have a real good puller and it gets to a point when I think it is going to break and then, snap the pump is loose. I pulled the one on my 99' P/U first because that one still has no front clip on it, so I can get to everything really easy, then did the 97' Troopy and it was a bit tight with that puller on the front, but ended up working ok. When I swapped them out again, I did not even need the puller.

On another note I found the changes to the timing cover and idler for the 99' and up model a welcom improvement over the older version, I think the tensioner works like it should with the new design, the old one ended up sticking and not holding very well under heavy excelleration. I also like the bolts instead of clips for the entire timing cover.

Cheers,

Michael
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Old 05-30-08, 02:48 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by prado t View Post
Run, Fuel Conditioner all the time and your pump whether it is inline or a radial will last the life of the BLOCK , Most VE style pumps ie 6BT C had lift pumps before the radial they were a Diaphram type that ran off of the camshaft
I used to think the pumps should last forever, but after talking to my mates in OZ, the Toyota rotary pump failure is common.

Cheers,

Michael
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Old 05-30-08, 05:35 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by tlcruiserman View Post
I will say I completely agree with you, I have a real good puller and it gets to a point when I think it is going to break and then, snap the pump is loose. I pulled the one on my 99' P/U first because that one still has no front clip on it, so I can get to everything really easy, then did the 97' Troopy and it was a bit tight with that puller on the front, but ended up working ok. When I swapped them out again, I did not even need the puller.

On another note I found the changes to the timing cover and idler for the 99' and up model a welcom improvement over the older version, I think the tensioner works like it should with the new design, the old one ended up sticking and not holding very well under heavy excelleration. I also like the bolts instead of clips for the entire timing cover.

Cheers,

Michael
The "snap" is a terrible noise. I looked down expecting to see a shattered alloy timing housing.
Havent had a chance to look at the new type of tensioner


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FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX
1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy
2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks
33 in BFG A/T
HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(
Volvo 740 GL
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