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Old 05-09-08, 11:20 AM   #1
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Aussie locker compatible with LJ-78 ??????

Anyone know if aussise locker makes a locker for the LJ-78 Prado's

I'm sure I'm not the only one that hates the traction limitations of these cruisers.
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Old 05-11-08, 07:36 PM   #2
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Hi All:

Probably the model for the HiLux differentials of the same vintage would fit, I'd imagine.

Good luck!

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Old 05-12-08, 01:25 AM   #3
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i am assuming you are asking about the front diff sinc eyou can get factory rear elec lockers already... if so then reconsider, it is easy to winch out of a mud hole than replace a birf on the trail...

as for whether they do or not for the LJ78 i do not know but the diffs are the same as the mini trucks... are they not?
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Old 05-12-08, 10:43 AM   #4
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yeah your probably right about the broken birfields so I'll likely upgrade to chromoly ones to negate that problem, ordered the front and rear from just differentials, and went with the Lockrights instead of the aussie
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Old 05-12-08, 01:12 PM   #5
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It would depend allot to me, how much I drive it on a hard surface or not.

If I drove mainly on loose surfaces and the traction was a budget issue, I'd seriously consider rear Aussie and selectable front. The strongest differential is an open one. And to me, the chances of breakage will go up even when you're not needing it.

If I drove allot on a hard road, selectables front and rear.


I would 1st get a rear locker, than see if I really did need a front after all. I think the average person can modify their driving habits and get away mostly with a rear locker only.


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Old 05-12-08, 02:29 PM   #6
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I disagree. Many aftermarket differentials are stronger than an open diff, this would be true for LSD units, Lockers, spools or otherwise.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilux View Post
The strongest differential is an open one..


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Old 05-12-08, 05:07 PM   #7
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it is a known fact that the open front diff in the 1990+ 70 series, 80 series are the weakest toyota made. after grenading one and taking it apart in my bush 70 i have to agree with this claim... two tiny web pieces that are supposed to withstand the grunt low range? bloody poor designing...

the factory electric one is far superior...

Last edited by crushers; 05-13-08 at 06:32 AM. Reason: unwarranted comment deleated
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Old 05-12-08, 11:47 PM   #8
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lots to think about, some of which hadn't crossed my mind, guess I'll find out the hard way
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Old 05-15-08, 03:54 AM   #9
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You are going to HATE the steering with a fully locked front once the hubs are locked in. Just my $00.02


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Old 05-15-08, 06:56 AM   #10
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a lockrite, easy lock, aussie lock or detroit is not a "fully locked" locker, it disengages when turning.

a elec locker or air locker or lincon locker will be a bear to turn when engaged but the selectable can be turned off when needed to be.

the only locker that i know of that is a complete waste in the front is the lincon locker...unless you ONLY go straight ahead all the time...of course you could get out and unlock one hub when turning and reingage once the turn is complete...
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Old 05-16-08, 08:27 AM   #11
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a possible option to consider is a front LSD and rear Aussie/lockright.



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Old 05-16-08, 09:18 AM   #12
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After the O ring issues were fixed , I love my ARBs front and rear. Ya they cost but if you wheel lots it is a minor expense, I have the 24v ARB compressor with the inflation kit, a valueable asset.


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Old 05-18-08, 09:25 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crushers View Post
a lockrite, easy lock, aussie lock or detroit is not a "fully locked" locker, it disengages when turning.

a elec locker or air locker or lincon locker will be a bear to turn when engaged but the selectable can be turned off when needed to be.

the only locker that i know of that is a complete waste in the front is the lincon locker...unless you ONLY go straight ahead all the time...of course you could get out and unlock one hub when turning and reingage once the turn is complete...


All your lockers are a spool when under torque.

Per the directions of all lockers you are to let off the gas prior to a turn, this will cause back lash in the diff and let the cogs (whatever you call the teethy things) to have enough room for them to slip over each other or "ratchet sound". Torque in a pocket locker causes the cross pin to separate and press the sides into the mesh. "Ratcheting" is the sound you hear b/c the cross pin is not wedging or forcing the sides apart.


If ANY locker has power into a turn regardless, its a spool.

Let off gas, backlash, ratchet ratchet, make your turn, then power on.
Its just an interruptible "Lincoln locker" or "spool".
Lockers don't belong in steer axles.

**IN THE FRONT**
Where the problem comes in is, are you an AWD, or a 4WD on a loose surface like mud or sand, ALL THE TIME? If I was never on a hard surface I would consider it. You shouldn't be on a hard surface anyways as much as possible w/ any 4WD. If I was an AWD it is unlikely to disengage even in a decelerated turn and I would NEVER consider it.


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We're just one krappy Diesel away from another 30 years of gas ...the "6.2 Redo"


As soon as I figure out how to make a still, I'm
going to start making "Bio Gasoline"

lets see, corn, sugar...copper pipe...

Last edited by Hilux; 05-18-08 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 05-20-08, 10:06 AM   #14
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well I guess I'll figure it out, I'll post up the results, should be next week some time.

Cheers
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