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#1 |
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IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 500
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Front window frame out.
Though I've been wrenching quite a lot, I never had the front window frame off.
At the moment there is a leak between the window frame and the body. Apparently the rubber seal in there sprung a leak. I have two options. Seal the seam with a window sealant or take the frame off and replace the seal. I like the last one. But, is it necessary to take the FRP-top off to get the windowframe off? Even more important, can you get the frame back on without damaging the new seal. Anyone ever done this? __________________ Ron R 1995 HZJ-73 4.2ltr Diesel; ARB-lockers front and rear ; MM-hydr.winch 10,500#; home made sliders; HST-Parabolic springs; Koni Heavy Track shocks. http://www.ourwebspot.nl/English_index.html |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 68
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yes i have done that last week , i removed of all the frame and the FRP out for repair , if you want remove the frame only all you need to open around 8 screws .
4 screws over head inside the cabin 4 screws in each corner of the driver and pax side |
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#3 |
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IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 500
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Xray,
thanks for your answer but it's still not quite clear to me. If I understand this right you did this with the FRP-top removed? I would like to do it with the FRP-top in place, so avoiding the removal since all I want is the frame removed to replace the sill. Surely the hinges have to be removed besides the bolts you mentioned. Do you think that is possible or were you saying that it is possible? ![]()
__________________ Ron R 1995 HZJ-73 4.2ltr Diesel; ARB-lockers front and rear ; MM-hydr.winch 10,500#; home made sliders; HST-Parabolic springs; Koni Heavy Track shocks. http://www.ourwebspot.nl/English_index.html |
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#4 | |
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Diesel for blood
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: west australia
Posts: 6,312
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Quote:
I think it was Radd Cruisers. I had the same problem with the 73 series but was able to seal it from the outside and it hasnt leaked since but my 75 series is rusted on the inside and will be coming out soon, steel roof intact
__________________ HZJ75 cab chassis 95 model ,stocker FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX 1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy 2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks 33 in BFG A/T HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(Volvo 740 GL |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 68
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Here is some pics about my rig showing the location of bolits
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 68
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Also 3 bolits in each side of the frame
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#7 | ||
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IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 500
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Quote:
Quote:
Think I will have too look into the costs of the sills before deciding. Thanks. Edit: One way or another this posting didn't make it before Xray posted. Thanks for the pics Xray. I knew which bolts I had to undo (I recently tightened them, securing with a bit of locktite, because some squeeking noises (the frame rubbing against the sills?) developed. Especially some of the topbolts had to te be tightened a bit and the sound disappeared. Big question I had was or the frame would slide out without removing the FRP-top, even better, will it go in without damaging the cleaned(?) or replaced (new?) seals. If I have to remove the FRP-top I think I go for a sealant, if not, I think I will replace the seal ($$$?). __________________ Ron R 1995 HZJ-73 4.2ltr Diesel; ARB-lockers front and rear ; MM-hydr.winch 10,500#; home made sliders; HST-Parabolic springs; Koni Heavy Track shocks. http://www.ourwebspot.nl/English_index.html Last edited by Ron R; 04-02-08 at 08:36 AM. |
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#8 | |
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Diesel for blood
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: west australia
Posts: 6,312
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Quote:
It was temporary but after 2-3 winters ,its still good ![]() I think what caused it to leak was the seal had become hard and then eroded from where it was exposed to the weather ,When you undo the frame hinges ,the frame should drop down and clear the roof. Some others who have done it say they had difficulty getting it to seal around the top after re installation. You also need to have the vehicle on a flat surface so there is no body twist. Have you got a price on the seal? I think the aftermarket ones here are about $70. __________________ HZJ75 cab chassis 95 model ,stocker FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX 1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy 2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks 33 in BFG A/T HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(Volvo 740 GL |
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#9 |
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IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 500
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I was going to seal it, just to avoid problems.
But that won't work. The seal-lip is protruding out of the gap, making it impossible to create a nice flat seal. Have not been looking into the costs yet, but a seal is not available in the aftermarket over here. So I have to go to mr. Toyota...or have it send......
__________________ Ron R 1995 HZJ-73 4.2ltr Diesel; ARB-lockers front and rear ; MM-hydr.winch 10,500#; home made sliders; HST-Parabolic springs; Koni Heavy Track shocks. http://www.ourwebspot.nl/English_index.html |
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#10 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: POLAND
Posts: 10
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Ron,For better results You have to remove windshield frame and glass from the frame. it's possible (like in my LJ73) that You have leakage to windshield frame and than to car inside. It looks like leakage from waterstrip between frame and body but it was from glass waterstrip! It's necessary to remove all frp-top bolts and lift it about 1"at the front (You don't need to remove it out) for windsield frame removing.Orginal windshield waterstrip will be fine but You have to carefully clean old sealant from glass and frame grooves. The same operation You have to do with frame-body waterstrip. If you have windshield frame in solid and clean condition (no rust) just use new sealant and orginal waterstrips. It will be fine.Attention, You have to use special sealant for rubber waterstrips.
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#11 |
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IH8MUD Addict
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big
Thanks for this thread and the posting, I will need to take my windshield frame out. After some moderate to heavy wheeling the last few weekends I have noticed some scale and rust flakes on the dashboard. Upon further investigation the frame is rusting from the inside out along the weld. There is a hole (rust hole ) now after scaling it that I shoved a tube and soaked it with Rust Check until I take the windsheild frame out to repair it. The seal is still Ok . The frame is just crumbling on the driverside verticle weld. Thanks for the pics X-Ray
__________________ 2.5 OME Heavy coils, ARB rear locker PRADO STOLEN ![]() 89 BJ74 ARB lockers front and rear 4" ZEAL lift, 24v M8000 winch ARB bull bar, Marks 108 to 1 HI 305 to 1 low
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#12 |
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IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 500
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Thanks Piter69A for posting your advise.
I know the window to frame seal tends to leak. But I'm confident that that is not the case here. I had that problem some years ago and sealed that. Also at that time I could find waterdroplets running over steel frame inside. Now all I can find is water below the frame, where it meets the body. I've put some sticky tape over gap between window frame and body (outside) and there is no more water getting inside anymore. Prado t....yes your problem is a very common one. I knew about it when I bought my rig (at that time it was almost new). First thing I did was to take out every bold that portruded through the frame wall and spray the inners with tectyl liberally - very liberally I must admid - so even three or four days later I would find tectyl that leaked out of the frame. (There must be some ventopenings in the lower area of the frame you cannot see). And I have no rust problem at all. The rig is now almost 13 years old and many of this age have their frames looking like Swiss cheeses. So if you get a new frame get a fibreglass one (they exist!) or if you get a steel one, soak it. __________________ Ron R 1995 HZJ-73 4.2ltr Diesel; ARB-lockers front and rear ; MM-hydr.winch 10,500#; home made sliders; HST-Parabolic springs; Koni Heavy Track shocks. http://www.ourwebspot.nl/English_index.html |
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