[Z()LTAN]

hehe wankfactor +


at work we dyno big diesels and they work much better without any exhaust appx 10% more

now thats what i want... but i think exhaust going into the engine bay then to the eyes wont b too good, so 4"-7" it is

[Welby]

Originally Posted by Z()LTAN

hehe wankfactor +


at work we dyno big diesels and they work much better without any exhaust appx 10% more

now thats what i want... but i think exhaust going into the engine bay then to the eyes wont b too good, so 4"-7" it is

I'm with you, the bigger the better, got to be able to let those trucks breath.

[Z()LTAN]

if something is possible and im able to do it...



im going to do it!



plain and simple

[Entaran]

a massive exhaust will increase the spool time (lag) on the turbo due to lack of backpressure.

Just something to keep in mind.

[Z()LTAN]

Originally Posted by Entaran

a massive exhaust will increase the spool time (lag) on the turbo due to lack of backpressure.

Just something to keep in mind.

and how... makes no sense..?
uhhh... dont say something you cant back up or ill have to make a rant....

and oh i rant well

[Island Moose]

Note to moderators, the photos of the underside of the dash here are great, worth their weight in gold next time someone has a query about relays etc.

[Z()LTAN]

Update:


Got a bit done to the chassis, well i got it to the stage where i can now perform the spring over and drive line lowering exercises..

• I cut the chassis down to the desired length, just behind last cross member, soon to be replaced by a custom Reece type receiver as ive built before on smash's patrol.
  
• Removed rear fuel tank for repositioning later.
  
• Removed all unnecessary bracketing such as exhaust mounts and crap thats never used, to make room for new mods.
  
• Removed shockies to find that 3 were seized on the stroke
  
• Removed all brake lines/breathers and all steering on diffs ready for SOA
  
• Got engine mounts ready for being cut off and lowered
  
• Took tranni cross member off for modding
  
• Rebuilt new springs and flipped centre pin for the SOA position.

Pix follow

[Z()LTAN]

[nickw]

Looking good zolt.

But you might want to make bigger (longer) perches up top.
It helps keep axle wrap down. Maybe 10" or so

Cheers,
Nick

[Z()LTAN]

Originally Posted by nickw

Looking good zolt.

But you might want to make bigger (longer) perches up top.
It helps keep axle wrap down. Maybe 10" or so

Cheers,
Nick

im building a ladder bar/torque bar so that wont be a problem

[Welby]

Originally Posted by nickw

Looking good zolt.

But you might want to make bigger (longer) perches up top.
It helps keep axle wrap down. Maybe 10" or so

Cheers,
Nick

Excellent work indeed, nice to see some rebuilding going on, rather than puling it to bits!! having said that you pretty well stripped it as far as you can go.

I'm pretty dumb when it comes to rebuilds, can you tell me what "axle wrap" is?
I have seen a few Hiluxes here especially double cabs with lifts in them still using leaf springs front and rear. Being standard spring over they tend to get a "bouncing" motion when climbing steep stuff? Do Cruisers with spring overs suffer the same. These 2 of yours Zoltan have coils up front, are you leaving them with coils or new leaf set up??
Interesting build, keep the photos coming.

Cheers

[Z()LTAN]

both of my trucks have leaf front and rear welby, they are 75 series not 79. So the custom leaf setup is the go

Axle wrap is the force that the diff makes under acceleration in which it tries to 'wrap' the diff in the springs.

On a spring over vehicle the wrap force is offset much more thus giving extra leverage to the wrap moment.

This bounces the car as you have said. A ladder bar / torque rod will stop the diff from wrapping under the springs.

[Welby]

Originally Posted by Z()LTAN

both of my trucks have leaf front and rear welby, they are 75 series not 79. So the custom leaf setup is the go

Axle wrap is the force that the diff makes under acceleration in which it tries to 'wrap' the diff in the springs.

On a spring over vehicle the wrap force is offset much more thus giving extra leverage to the wrap moment.

This bounces the car as you have said. A ladder bar / torque rod will stop the diff from wrapping under the springs.

My mistake re the springs, I was thinking your trucks were 2003 models, but I recall now they were 93 & 95 so yes they would be leaf front and rear. My old 75 was the same, had a lot going for them I reckon, good strong set up, and difficult to bend stering arms etc, unlike a coil set up, leaves things a bit vunerable.

Thanks for the explanation re the Axle wrap, its not a term i have come across before. Will pass it on to my mate in his lifted Hilux, might be something he can do about it.
Cheers

[Z()LTAN]

Finally i start constructing, instead of deconstructing!

There are a few ways of getting around the front drive shaft hitting cross member problem on a 75 series, all of which i think are dodgy, as cutting out the interfering part of the cross member takes all the strength out of the cold rolled 2 layer cross members...

So i think, how to fix this?

I come up with an idea that will work for me in a few ways,

• Clearing the drive shaft
• anchor point for bash plate below transfer case
• strong
• no way it can catch and rip the cross member off like other designs

By meens of 2x Custom 1" spacers and a modified transmission mounting point this is what i have





Fully welded with 3 run fillets and final HOT run over the top, inside and out.

[Welby]

Looking good Zoltan, really impressed with the parts modification. Winter weather slowing you down much? Looks like you have access to a good workshop. Its bound to be warmer over there than it is here. Mind you looks pretty wet on the east coast of Oz.

[Z()LTAN]

ah yeah, slows things a little, but its not bad... its work thats slows things realy..

[Entaran]

Originally Posted by Z()LTAN

and how... makes no sense..?
uhhh... dont say something you cant back up or ill have to make a rant....

and oh i rant well

Well I could write another page long post about BASIC TURBOCHARGER PHYSICS but frankly, there's about a thousand sites on the net that all repeat themselves. Go do some reading and save me typing it out for you.

Needless to say that if you don't believe me go for your life but once you have it all bolted up, take the ute for a short haul and note where it spools to 5psi in terms of RPM in third gear (shortshift third so it's way too low in the RPM so you can read it easier), then bolt on a standard or similar exhaust and do the same thing. The results are rather obvious and the physics behind it equally obvious due to the basic design of the turbocharger.

That said, you will get much better TOP END and a much reduced low end/midrange torque with a huge exhaust and the opposite for a standard/2.5/3inch.

[Z()LTAN]

Update:

The fitting of the modified cross member, spacers and the upgrading of the bolts.

Removing old 8mm metric nuts with a cold chisel and a gimpy



New for old




The end product





Stay tuned

[nickw]

Looking good Zolt.
Bet you can wait for the finished product.

Also, thanks for explaining the axle wrap.
I missed the question.

Cheers,
N.

[Z()LTAN]

i played around a bit this morning, testing the static flex on a SUA no load...

its laughable!

[Welby]

Come'on Zoltan this is 75 series cruisers we are talking here. Don't think Mr Toyota has the word"flex" in his dictionary.

Ive been in one for few years, I have never seen one flex. I guess they might if overloaded but in normal operating conditions they are just fine. I guess you had to test your new brace, but looks every bit as good as the original to me.

Keep on with the posting, very interesting.

Cheers

[Z()LTAN]

My new acquisitions

Flash solid stainless 3" wheel spacers




hmmmmmmm....... they are on 15x10 rims with 5"1/2 offset already GOT OFFSET???

[my02]

Surely that is going to place a hell of a lot of stress on the wheel studs and bearings, especially with your bigger tyres?

[Z()LTAN]

Originally Posted by my02

Surely that is going to place a hell of a lot of stress on the wheel studs and bearings, especially with your bigger tyres?

No added stress on the studs as the spacer mates the hub perfectly taking the stress off the studs.

The wheel bearings on the other hand yes, i will need to be inspecting and replacing them more often, but its not a problem as its a very quick and cheap thing to do.

[Z()LTAN]

got a couple of extra bits and pieces today

New U bolts
New Greaseable shackles (standard size for now)
New Greaseable Pins

[Z()LTAN]

Update:

• Cut the front hangers off for shackle reversal and SOA
• Cut more off rear chassis
• Built Rear tow hitch to replace rear cross member (unfinished)
• Fish plates for hitch to chassis
• Took front diff off
• Stripped and made ready for cut and rotate, new perches
• Cleaned and inspected CVs to find them fairly rooted
• Center is near new
• Ready for full rebuild and swivel upgrades
• May upgrade the full floaters to 100 series studs

[Z()LTAN]

Fabbing up my new rear crossmember / tow hitch / recovery point during lunch times, Pix late saturday.

Here is a little teaser

[stanley]

Zoltan what's the deal with those ubolts with the gray coating. Is the coating some type of heavy duty coating? what does it do? quite down the squeaking or something. I've never seen ubolts with a coating.








this is a link to your ubolt picture: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php...&postcount=115

[Z()LTAN]

they are powder coated and dipped in an anti rust paint.

look fancy realy

[stanley]

they look cool