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Old 09-30-06, 12:27 AM   #1
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12V alternator

Have any of you guys run a seperate 12V alternator on HZ1 and where did you put it also, what kind of coolant heater do you guys use in colder temps block or circulating hearters and where did you put them?


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Old 09-30-06, 06:11 AM   #2
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Why do you want another when the stock one is 110 or 120 amp unless yours is like the 55 amp they run on Coasters??


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Old 09-30-06, 09:41 AM   #3
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Because he is in Canada and probably has a Japanese truck and in that case his stock unit will be 24 volt.

Not much room up front on a 1HZ. If you lose the AC compressor you will have room enough for an other mount.
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Old 09-30-06, 06:33 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japan4X4 View Post
Because he is in Canada and probably has a Japanese truck and in that case his stock unit will be 24 volt.
Curious as to why he needs one. If the 24v doubles the wattage then his system is capable of 1320w even with a little 55 amp alternator although its probably an 80 amp


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HZJ75 cab chassis 95 model ,stocker
FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX
1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy
2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks
33 in BFG A/T
HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(
Volvo 740 GL
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Old 10-02-06, 02:39 AM   #5
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Yes it is a Japanese HZJ 73 and I wanted to run 12 Volt lights and accessories . I really don't like the 24V lights if one blows you have to replace it or your battery goes dead. 24v is more efficient than 12v. I like 12v for lights, stereo and CB. Convertors aren't for me. Braille battery and a seperate fuse box are. Cheers


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Originally Posted by roscoFJ73 View Post
Curious as to why he needs one. If the 24v doubles the wattage then his system is capable of 1320w even with a little 55 amp alternator although its probably an 80 amp


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Old 10-02-06, 06:55 AM   #6
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A burnt out headlight will kill the battery? That seems strange. I wanted to add a 12v alternator and battery to my BJ71 but don't have the room either.
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Old 10-07-06, 07:42 PM   #7
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Bulbs are 12V but are run from each battery to balance the drain on the batterys left light back battery right light front battery. There has got to be someone who has done this?


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Old 10-07-06, 08:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackSmoker View Post
Bulbs are 12V but are run from each battery to balance the drain on the batterys left light back battery right light front battery. There has got to be someone who has done this?
Would it be easier to convert the whole system to 12V and just run one altenator?


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HZJ75 cab chassis 95 model ,stocker
FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX
1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy
2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks
33 in BFG A/T
HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(
Volvo 740 GL
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Old 10-08-06, 02:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackSmoker View Post
Bulbs are 12V but are run from each battery to balance the drain on the batterys left light back battery right light front battery. There has got to be someone who has done this?
Huh, on your HZJ73??? That was the set up on the Canadian 24volt Cruisers for
sealed beam headlight availability most likely. If one of the 12v bulbs blow will cause an imbalance, correct. All the JDM 24volt cruisers I have seen to date have had 24v headlight bulbs (H3/H4), which you should be able to buy at any decent auto parts retailer, Lordco etc.


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Last edited by 70sguy; 10-09-06 at 02:33 AM.
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Old 10-08-06, 02:24 PM   #10
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Costs alot to rewind starter and alternator I guess it probably could be done. 24V system is better as in higher amperage and more effiecent. A gas starter might not crank over a diesel. 12V alternator are cheep and one wire 90 -100 amp alternators perfect for lights and accessories.


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Old 10-08-06, 09:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackSmoker View Post
Costs alot to rewind starter and alternator I guess it probably could be done. 24V system is better as in higher amperage and more effiecent. A gas starter might not crank over a diesel. 12V alternator are cheep and one wire 90 -100 amp alternators perfect for lights and accessories.
What size is your current alternator? The 12v HZJ7* use a 12v diesel starter and a 110 or 120 amp alternator which gives them about 1440 amps( I MEANT WATTS).
Of course if your in an area where you do extreme cold starts the 24 will be better.


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HZJ75 cab chassis 95 model ,stocker
FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX
1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy
2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks
33 in BFG A/T
HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(
Volvo 740 GL

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Old 10-09-06, 02:40 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackSmoker View Post
Costs alot to rewind starter and alternator I guess it probably could be done. 24V system is better as in higher amperage and more effiecent. A gas starter might not crank over a diesel. 12V alternator are cheep and one wire 90 -100 amp alternators perfect for lights and accessories.
There is a whole lot more to it than just changing out the Alternator and starter.
Get the convert 24v truck to 12volts thing out of your head. Volts are a really good thing.. embrace all 24 of em.


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Old 10-09-06, 11:40 AM   #13
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How about 24V start and 12V run?
http://www.gas-turbines.com/products.../nt-sp9844.htm

Used a lot in boats, you get the big-ass crank of 24V, but everything else runs on 12V.

Truly the way to go,
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Old 10-09-06, 12:05 PM   #14
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That's how the HDJ81s are set up. You are right, it is nice to have the 24volt start but the added complexity of the system is generally regarded as a PITA by a lot AUS 80 folk. There is a series parrallel switching solenoid and a timer and a bunch of extra wire to make it all happen. The switching solenoid is $450 to replace when it goes.
I had my 1HD-T starter rebuilt with a new 12v 2.5kw motor and kept the 80 pure 12v. With two 800cca batteries and good #2 battery cables and brass terminal clamps the thing spins that 1HD-T over SO fast.
24v start 12v run is an option for guys swapping 24volt engines into 12v trucks but in the case of the 24volt HZJ73, it is not really viable.


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Old 10-15-06, 12:21 PM   #15
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How do you use a electric winch that 12V on a 24V?


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Old 10-15-06, 12:55 PM   #16
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If you want a coolant heater, www.espar.com or webastco.com have exellent hydronic heaters but unfortunately expensive and labour intensive to install. You can also check ebay in Germany.
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Old 10-15-06, 11:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
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How do you use a electric winch that 12V on a 24V?
You don't, although there are some on this board that will argue about this.
If you have a Warn 8274 etc you convert it to 24volt with a new 24v motor and cont duty 24v solenoids. 24volt 8274s pull UNREAL.


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Old 10-16-06, 08:09 PM   #18
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I didn't know you could get a 24V motor for a WARN winch? I have an old 10000lb. Warn at home can it be converted to 24V? Thanks


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Old 10-17-06, 11:37 AM   #19
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I have converted a number of 8274s to 24v. I don't see why you can't do an M10000. Warn may not sell a 24v motor for it but you can probably run the part number on your 12v motor by a good electrical supplier and ask for the Prestolite equivalent in 24v. You may need to have the shaft machined to match the 12v unit. you then swap in cont duty 24v solenoids and your done.
The M10000 doesn't seem to be available in a 24v seehttp://www.offroadwarehouse.com/Store_ViewProducts.asp!Cat!1088
Might be worth it to sell your 12v 10k and get a new 24volt.

If you want a stock 24v volt HZJ73 Aisin planetary let me know.. PM me, got a few kicking around.


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Old 10-18-06, 12:06 AM   #20
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All Japanese HJ73s are 24 volt 30 amp alernators.

Rosco, love your maths!
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Old 10-18-06, 04:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japan4X4 View Post
All Japanese HJ73s are 24 volt 30 amp alernators.

Rosco, love your maths!
??? As far as I know you multiply the amps by 12 or 24 depending on the system.
30 amp X 24= 720wMight even run a hairdryer on low speed
Im glad I have the 110 amp alt making 1320w


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FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX
1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy
2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks
33 in BFG A/T
HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(
Volvo 740 GL
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Old 10-18-06, 09:18 AM   #22
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Rosco it was the units that you blew.
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Old 10-19-06, 12:09 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackSmoker View Post
I didn't know you could get a 24V motor for a WARN winch? I have an old 10000lb. Warn at home can it be converted to 24V? Thanks
I looked into this and contacted Warn.
I have a 12v M8000 from my old truck.
I wanted to convert it to 24v.
Conatcted Warn. The motor needs to be changed and solinoids changed.
Not really worth it.

I eneded up getting a 24v 8274 Toyota copy from Sheldon.
I am itching to hook it up and try it.
I can't wait to see how fast it is.

Anyways, if you have any more questions, maybe read/resurect my old thread in the 24v/diesel section. The thread is only about 1 month old.
Let try not sidetrack this one to much.

Cheers,
Nick


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Old 10-19-06, 12:14 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70sguy View Post
There is a whole lot more to it than just changing out the Alternator and starter.
Get the convert 24v truck to 12volts thing out of your head. Volts are a really good thing.. embrace all 24 of em.
Exactly. I am learning about all the benefits of a 24v system.
They are slightly more complicated, but seem completely superior.

To anyone that has a 24v system. Just leave it.
Put a solar converter in and be done.
Just get 24v accesories (winch lights etc...)
Stereo, and chargers, etc... can all run of a Solar conveter and 12v fuse box.

Cheers,
Nick

BTW Sheldon: I can't wait to get that 24v Asin in.
I am dying to see "the legend" in action.
Last night we went out for a run with all the suzuki's.
Got the blue one you say stuck in 3ft of swap.
A friend hooked up with his M6000 and yanked it out so fast, I thought it was 24v. The new Warn's are stupid fast. I am dying to 8274 24v go.


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Old 10-20-06, 02:45 PM   #25
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Let us all know.. it would be good to get some feedback from someone who has recently used an M9000. I imagine pulling a suzuki out with it should be cake.
Let us know how it is geared.


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