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Old 05-22-06, 07:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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FJ60 Dual Alternator

The Overly Complicated Approach to Dual Batteries


Desmogged 85FJ60
Alternator bracket from a 62
OEM;
Alternator
Fusible Link
Wiring Harness (part of it anyway)
Ignition Relay
Water Pump Belt

Non OEM;
106mm Pulley
8mm spacer for tensioner bolt

On an FJ62 the alternator goes where the FJ60 smog pump sits. The 62 bracket bolts directly to the 60 block and body mount.
The bracket needs to be cut a little to give the alternator enough room to swing.
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Old 05-22-06, 07:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The belt from a 62 will not work because the 62 block is shorter, so the water pump is closer to the crank, sooooo the belt is to short.
The 60 smog pump pulley is much larger than the alternator pulley and they are not interchangeable.
A 44” belt will fit just fine with the stock alt pulley, but it is hard to find and it is NOT OEM TOYOTA. Which when it comes to belts is very important.
So I sourced a larger pulley from an alternator shop and modified it to work.
106mm O.D. 17mm Bore. 16mm belt groove.
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Old 05-22-06, 07:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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This is the wiring diagram. The only difference from what I put in the truck is that the white wire goes to the fuse before the I.G. relay. The charge and discharge of the two systems are completely separated.
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Old 05-22-06, 07:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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There is a spare spot that fits another ignition relay almost perfectly, the little guide rail just needs to be thinned down with a dremel tool.
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Old 05-22-06, 07:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That is pretty amazing. How did you route the cables from the second alternator? Did they go directly to the second battery?

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1987 FJ60 - MoonShine - SROR Front Bumper, H55f, 2-low, SOA, 62+AAL fronts w/ Ironman rears, 36's, FF w/ 4.11's, Round Eyes, KMR's Tailgate Hatch, desmog + headers, Storage / Sleeping system, etc. -- DD w/242k

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Old 05-22-06, 07:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Wiring the relay, before and after.
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Old 05-22-06, 07:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You can see the new mini harness wired into some of the spare fuse spots on the bottom of the fuse box. There are 5 empty spots that I can fill with fuses and run power to various accessories.
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Old 05-22-06, 07:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The parts are all interchangeable and OEM so there are fewer spares to carry. (ultimate redundancy)
I ran a battery cable over to the main battery to facilitate self jumping (eventually I will put a battery switch on there) You can see the overflow bottle has been moved to the fender where there is already a nut of the same size. And I used two sexy new battery trays from stainlesstrays.com.
All finished.
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Old 05-22-06, 07:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60
That is pretty amazing. How did you route the cables from the second alternator? Did they go directly to the second battery?
Did you reply before or after I posted the wiring diagram?
The wires travel exactly the same as they do in the OEM setup, just in a different one.

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Old 05-22-06, 08:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Sorry. That was a premature reply to your post.

Definately an original solution to the age old problem of not having enough power.

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1987 FJ60 - MoonShine - SROR Front Bumper, H55f, 2-low, SOA, 62+AAL fronts w/ Ironman rears, 36's, FF w/ 4.11's, Round Eyes, KMR's Tailgate Hatch, desmog + headers, Storage / Sleeping system, etc. -- DD w/242k

Waiting to be installed:
York 210 OBA, shocks, lots of little things....

1967 Stevens Mfg. Co M416 - almost RUST FREE!!!

Previous Rig:
1987 FJ60 - Big Red

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Old 05-23-06, 07:32 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Very cool. Thanks for sharing!
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Old 09-19-06, 12:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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looks good.

I'd reroute the air intake.... higher is better than lower, but otherwise, a very elegant solution all the way around. Thinking about doing something more or less similar in my HJ60.. but no smot pump location to take advantage of :(

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Old 09-19-06, 12:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Wow.

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Old 09-19-06, 12:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Cool. A couple of considerations to think about (and maybe you addressed them or they are inconsequential): #1 Does the larger diameter pully spin the alt fast enough to generate good voltage (mostly at idle)? #2 Is having the alt underneath the PS pump a good idea considering that it will eventually leak?

Otherwise, very nice. Wish I was adept in the way of the electron. I have trouble with basic wiring.

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Old 09-19-06, 04:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Way to drag up an old thread.
In this case I happen to have a certain affinity for the topic at hand, so I don't mind..........

Sandcruiser, I'll trade you my dual alternator for your HJ.
The Air intake comes out at the same point as stock, right behind the headlight. Snorkel someday.

RredFJ40, I was concerned about the pulley size, and at a low idle the volts are a tad lower than at speed, but the motor only needs to be at about 800rpm before that alt takes full effect, really not that high.

PS pump leaking on an alt is better than leaking on a smog pump, if it does leak on it and happens to effect it, no big deal, I have 2 under the hood now.
I suppose it is no different than having the smog pump in the same location.



P.S. After field testing this for the past few months,........... I really like it.
All things electrical just seem to have more juice/faster response and having the high watt headlights run of the other battery is great.
Not even mentioning the whole fridge thing, which just kicks serious a$$

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Old 09-19-06, 04:05 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Very nice workmanship on the project and very well thought, nice job

Dylan

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Old 09-19-06, 04:12 PM   #17 (permalink)
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that looks like a good setup. Sure make sense if you have a electric winch and or high powered lights / radio. i've been thinking about the same thing.

You running two 55amp alternators?

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Old 09-19-06, 07:47 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Cool!
Is that an E-Jag or a Lotus in the background of the bandsaw pic?
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Old 09-19-06, 10:04 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Late E-type.

Do I win a prize?!

And Kevin, that is an excellent way to fill the smog pump location.

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Old 09-20-06, 02:20 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I routinely run second alternators in that location. One is even just there as a replacement for the smog pump so that the belts all work right, not even wired in yet...

But I've never done it quite that cleanly...


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Old 09-20-06, 05:21 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Mark,
Is there a drop in alternator for the AP bracketry?

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Old 09-20-06, 06:44 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Thanks guys.
Answers:
E-type. (boss' barn) Bitch to get into and work on, but it drives very nice.

Two stock FJ60 alternators, I believe they are in the 50-amp range.

I have heard that there is a GM alternator that fits with a little spacer, but that's not Toyota.....................

Jim, thanks, your idler bracket is a much easier route to take
For your prize, I will show you my new manual HAC setup? (yeah, I really went ahead and did that)

Kevin R.

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Old 09-20-06, 09:08 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinmrowland
.

I have heard that there is a GM alternator that fits with a little spacer, but that's not Toyota.....................
.
Nice think about the GM set up is that it costs substantially less and a replacement unit very easy to find.

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Old 09-20-06, 01:05 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FJ40Jim
Mark,
Is there a drop in alternator for the AP bracketry?
IIRC I have used both the AP bracket and the older F engine alternator bracket. Seems like on at least one rig I had to slip the ears of the aalternator between the ears of the mount instead of having both the ears of the alternator outside of the mount ears. Used a piece of tubing as a spacer to keep it all in place. That must have been on the AP mount rather than an older alt bracket.


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Old 09-20-06, 05:31 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruisergreg
Nice think about the GM set up is that it costs substantially less and a replacement unit very easy to find.

Alternators are a funny thing that people seem to replace as a whole, rather than rebuild ( I know I used to)
The thing is that in most cases an alternator rebuild consists of , 2 bearings, 2 brushes and possibly a voltage regulator, which are all very easy to do (air gun and soldering iron needed)
If an alternator suddenly goes in the field, most cases seem to be a bad voltage regulator.
The VR is incredibly easy to replace (only requires a screwdriver) ,only costs $38 from one of our TLC friendly Toyota dealers and is small and light and well worth carrying as a spare.

So I say stick with the Toyota, they make good stuff.

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Old 09-21-06, 02:28 AM   #26 (permalink)
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very nice clean set up

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Old 04-24-07, 08:33 PM   #27 (permalink)
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sorry to dig this thread up again, but i gotta know, is that tensioner bracket from the FJ60 smog pump or is it an FJ62 tensioner bracket and bolt? I was looking at them on SOR and it looks like the 62 tensioner bracket bolts to another bracket bolted to the water pump casing, is that true? thanks!
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Old 04-25-07, 06:02 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Good point, I forgot about that.
It is the 60 tension bracket. Since the 62 block is shorter the bracket has to bolt on the water pump like you stated, did not work on the 60.

IIRC, I had to elongate the outer most hole on the tension bracket to get it to arc down a little bit and accommodate the larger sweep of the alternator. And I had to put that little nut spacer on for the lock bolt.

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