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Old 01-26-06, 06:13 PM   #1
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do your own alignment

Unless you have indications in the handling that the caster is off, then it's not worth paying an alignment shop. Caster is only adjusted by stuffing tapered shims between the axle and the springs, and camber can't be adjusted.

The only other adjustment, and what a shop will charge you $50 to adjust is something you can do in an hour or so in your driveway. Here's how:

Toe in is very important, but easy to set. Measure up from the ground to the middle of the hub, then put a strip of masking tape across the front tires at the same height, front and rear. Then find the middle of the tread, you end up with a big + on the tires. Then just measure the distance between the + signs on the front and rear of the tire, adjust till the front is about 1/8" less than the rear. It really helps to have a second person to hold the other end of the tape steady on the other side of the truck.
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Old 01-26-06, 06:14 PM   #2
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Old 01-26-06, 08:01 PM   #3
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There's a post recently where a mudder stated (we're all mudders, no?) had set his toe similar to you, but found out his truck drove better after a professional job.

I think your method would be great to get "close enough" after a suspension rebuild or upgrade. Not trying to diss ya, but do we have a conclusive answer for the best way to get our trucks aligned?
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Old 01-26-06, 08:21 PM   #4
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Yulp adjust toe in by myself. After the monkeys at the shop fudged it up...


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Old 01-26-06, 08:29 PM   #5
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All 3 of my Cruisers have driveway adjusted toe-in. As you say, it's dead simple.


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Old 01-26-06, 09:21 PM   #6
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I doubted myself the first time I did it. Paid $50 to find out I did it right.


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Old 01-26-06, 09:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by euclid
Unless you have indications in the handling that the caster is off, then it's not worth paying an alignment shop. Caster is only adjusted by stuffing tapered shims between the axle and the springs, and camber can't be adjusted.


Toe in is very important, but easy to set. Measure up from the ground to the middle of the hub, then put a strip of masking tape across the front tires at the same height, front and rear. Then find the middle of the tread, you end up with a big + on the tires. Then just measure the distance between the + signs on the front and rear of the tire, adjust till the front is about 1/8" less than the rear. It really helps to have a second person to hold the other end of the tape steady on the other side of the truck.
OK now I have a weekend project. Looks pretty straightforward.

Bob
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Old 01-27-06, 05:12 AM   #8
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Measuring across the tires assumes they're perfectly round & straight. How about putting the front axle on jack stands & holding a piece of chalk stationary as close to the center of the tire as you can while turning each wheel, thereby inscribing a circumference line? Then measure around each wheel & mark 2 halfway points. Then use a level to get these marks horizontal & proceed with the measuring & adjustment of the tie rod.
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Old 01-27-06, 06:13 AM   #9
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too easy

so, all you need is a tape mearsure and some masking tape.....you don't even have to touch a wrench. This is great...I can't believe the shops aren't onto this one. I'll be trying it this weekend.
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Old 01-27-06, 06:54 AM   #10
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You'll need a wrench or two to make an actual adjustment. Finding a good referance point on the tire is easier said than done. I like Tinkers idea of a chalk circle drawn while rotating the tire.


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Old 01-27-06, 07:40 AM   #11
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just trying to make the point to include all

the directions for adjustment...this should be in the factory manual though....haven't looked but need to do some on my unit
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Old 01-27-06, 07:54 AM   #12
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i've done all mine with no issues.


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Old 01-27-06, 08:13 AM   #13
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Great write up Greg!


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Old 01-27-06, 08:53 AM   #14
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I pull my wheels on my 40 and use c-clamps to clamp long pieces of angle to my rotors, measure and do the math to make it 1 deg toe-in per FSM. Doesn’t really matter much when your housing is kinda tweaked though.


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Old 01-27-06, 10:02 AM   #15
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Great write up.

This should be added to the FAQ.


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Old 01-27-06, 11:13 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sven
the directions for adjustment...this should be in the factory manual though....haven't looked but need to do some on my unit
Yeah, step one of every project is go get your FSM and read what it says.


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Old 01-27-06, 11:32 AM   #17
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You must have been reading my mind when when you did this write up-Thanks for sharing!
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Old 01-30-06, 07:35 AM   #18
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Greg,
That was great, now please do a write up of the power steering box, that is next weeks project.

-mark


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Old 01-30-06, 11:30 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmw68
Greg,
That was great, now please do a write up of the power steering box, that is next weeks project.

-mark
Ok, here it is:
Take the box off. Send it to West Texas Off Road. When it gets back put it back on. Done.

HTH


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Old 01-30-06, 06:22 PM   #20
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Is it the same for 60s as for 62's?


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Old 01-30-06, 06:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps40-2
Is it the same for 60s as for 62's?
Yes, and 80's and 40's as well.


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Old 01-30-06, 07:39 PM   #22
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What are you guys using to turn the bars. Mine are stuck. Tried a pipe wrench, but i was concerned that i'd rip off a tie-rod end.

It's soaking in PBBlaster right now. Any other clues?

-Dave-


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Old 01-30-06, 09:35 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSUCruiser
What are you guys using to turn the bars. Mine are stuck. Tried a pipe wrench, but i was concerned that i'd rip off a tie-rod end.

It's soaking in PBBlaster right now. Any other clues?

-Dave-
Try heating them if PB doesn't work.


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Old 05-04-07, 12:31 AM   #24
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Someone mentioned earlier about raising the truck on stands: For any front end aligning, you definitely need to have the truck on the ground, "loaded" suspension---meaning truck's weight on springs/front end. HTH


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Old 05-04-07, 07:17 AM   #25
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did mine kinda like that, brought it to a mechanic i trust, and found it to be within less than 1 degree of where it should be.


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Old 05-04-07, 09:36 AM   #26
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I like the way you did the measuring, But what about getting the front wheels in line with the rear wheels?
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Old 05-04-07, 10:04 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSUCruiser View Post
What are you guys using to turn the bars. Mine are stuck. Tried a pipe wrench, but i was concerned that i'd rip off a tie-rod end.

It's soaking in PBBlaster right now. Any other clues?

-Dave-
You can't really hurt the bar with a pipe wrench. If it's stuck use a big wrench..REALLY big if necessary.

Mine was so stuck one time, took it to a shop, put it on a lift & we both hung off the wrench & still no movement. Shop owner gave up. Took it back home & got the biggest pipe wrench I had, handle was probally 15-18 in long, got my really small $19 Harbor Freight floor jack to the handle. And it poped right loose. Once loose, then you can move the bar either way for proper adjustment. Like I said, you can't hurt that bar with a wrench.

Good write up Greg.

John


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Old 05-04-07, 10:23 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudpaws View Post
Someone mentioned earlier about raising the truck on stands: For any front end aligning, you definitely need to have the truck on the ground, "loaded" suspension---meaning truck's weight on springs/front end. HTH
With a vehicle that has IFS you are absolutely correct, but a truck with a straight axle, even on jackstands the truck has the weight on the axle. Toe in does not change with suspension travel..


I opersonally use a nail or something allong those lines kinda like Tinker does. MUCH easier than figuring out the center of your tire with some tape


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Old 05-04-07, 11:14 AM   #29