The Classic FJ60 "Stumbling/Hesitating Acceleration/Running Problem

hank14 · 12-14-07, 08:22 PM

What specifically do you need? Maybe we can re-take some.

jfnall · 12-15-07, 10:16 AM

not sure what's up but i am getting no pics as well. have all the EXACT same symptoms. 232,xxx miles.

how many feet of line and what sizes do you need to replace all vac hoses?

once that is done, then i can go on to step two trying to pinpoint the problem.

and, FMS is on the way. all of them.

ienjoysocks · 12-15-07, 05:07 PM

k is it weird that i experience this in my 62?

AZFJ60 · 12-15-07, 11:26 PM

I am going to chime in with Socks here and ask, can the "unessential" vacuum hoses/ emissions system be removed ultimately alleviating these problems? I experience very similar problems with those described in this thread but most of the threads that I have read regarding 3FE emmissions removal say that eliminating the EGR system on will likely throw a check engine light. Anyone out there with an idea and/ or real world experience?

Ryan

JLH911 · 12-16-07, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fj40tom

I went through this same thing after I bought my Land Cruiser ('84 FJ60) years ago. Everyone suggested the "fuel issues" route, but after replacing the fuel pump, filter, gas cap, and rebuilding the carb; the problem still existed.

Time for plan B: After reading an article in Toyota Trails about Cruisers and vaccum, I decided to install a vaccum gauge in the truck. BTW- The article is posted in the tech section of this site. I quickly learned that EVERYTIME my truck wouldn't run right, it was evident on the vaccum gauge. I then knew that I had a vaccum leak somewhere. I had already replaced all of the rubber vaccum hoses, so I knew that they were fine. I pulled the EGR system, carb, and intake and exhaust manifolds. I quickly discovered a 3-4" crack in the intake manifold. This explained why the truck, at certain temps. would run fine, then other times it would run like ****. I had a machine shop weld the crack in the intake manifold and machine the mounting surfaces of the intake and exhaust manifolds. Then reinstalled everything. My truck was healed, it had never run better. The vaccum gauge was reading very consistant.

It was not a difficult repair, it just took a while. All of the vaccum hoses can look very intimidating, but they are not. Just take alot of pictures before you tear into it and label as you go.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

tp
www.lslc.org

Great suggestions...what did you use to mark your hoses?

I have about 30 ft of Silicon Vacuum tube that I'm going to use to replace all the lines....one by one, but I wanted to mark them all, maybe with masking tape and assign an individual letter or character to each one then take a picture.

Any other suggestions?

Rob Faucett · 12-16-07, 05:05 PM

Scott (and others)- I need pictures of your rig between the EGR modulator and the EGR valve. Actually what I need to know is do you have this valve (red circle) inline between the modulator and the valve. If you do have it which way does it flow? If somebody with an emissions sections FSM could look that would be a great help. I own the three other FSM sections

!

Its weird b/c the only non-OEM tubing in my entire rig is between this valve and the EGR Valve.

Thanks for any help.

Rob Faucett · 12-16-07, 05:06 PM

circle square, whatever.

hank14 · 12-16-07, 09:05 PM

Nope, mine does not have a VTV there, and It's not in the FSM. I'll try to get a pic of mine up tomorrow- so everyone can tell me what's wrong with it (although I think it's all stock)!

Rob Faucett · 12-16-07, 09:10 PM

Thanks Scott. I bet your is correct and mine us SNAFU. Can't wait for more opinions/pics . . .

bigbertha · 12-17-07, 09:02 AM

that valve is absolutely not stock. it should just be a hose there.

lathrop · 12-17-07, 09:57 AM

I had the poor Idle version of the problem when I first bought my rig. Tried disconnecting. the EGR and modulator. It made no difference. Then I noticed the bottom hose on the HAC was open to the atmosphere. Seemed right. But It had vacum on it. OOPs not good. so I bypassed it. Ran fine for a while. Then the idle got wonky again. Replaced all the hoses. I thought. a year later I started having carb problems so I replaced the Carb. Lo and behold there were 4 short vac lines going to the bottom back side of the carb and they were toasted from the heat of the Ex. manifold. DUH.
So there is no one fix. I also run Vac. guage to keep track. I am still not 100% with it as my Idle is a bit High at operating Temp. I will get to that when I get time.

IB14A69 · 12-17-07, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ienjoysocks

k is it weird that i experience this in my 62?

I am also having these same problems with my 62 ?

Sacto60 · 12-17-07, 01:12 PM

Thanks for such a great thread! My 87FJ60 has the same periodic symptoms that are described througout. I live in CA and the symptoms are non-existent when I'm driving at altitude near Lake Tahoe but soon return when I'm at sea level in the valley. Looking forward to checking out vaccuum lines, etc.

hank14 · 12-18-07, 06:47 PM

Here's some pictures. The first one is the EGR in stock form.

The second picture is my fancy golf tee bypass. I used a small 6 inch piece of spare vac. hose to connect to the EGR modulator to be able to cap both ends.

hank14 · 12-18-07, 06:55 PM

For me, bypassing the EGR solved a major bucking and suging problem from about 1200-2000 RPMs in all gears. I instantly had more power.
Problem was, on the highway I had pinging when accelerating especially at about 1/2 to 2/3 throttle.

So, I read about bypassing one of the distrubutor vacuum advances. This picutre shows which one I did- I think it's the primary advance?

I really don't understand the function of all this stuff. It is completely trial and error for me.

Notice the VCV inline. I think the other vacuum advance has to do with the high altitude comepensation?

Coincidentally, when I took a 1200 mile trip to New Mexico up to 9,000 feet, I did not know about bypassing the vaccum advance, so I left the EGR in normal (non bypass mode) to prevent highway pinging. At higher elevations, it ran fine.

My plan is to still work through the emissions FSM to trouble shoot each component and find out what is not working. I don't have to SMOG test, but I want my vehicle to be able to pass so I can sell it to one of you someday.

hank14 · 12-18-07, 06:57 PM

Let me know if something doesn't look right and I'll pull out the FSM again. Holler if you need any other pictures. I have some great ones of a really leaky PS gear box!

jfnall · 12-29-07, 10:35 AM

been a couple weeks since anyone has posted here. hope there are still watchers. nobody has posted and said "THIS IS IT."

just got around to replacing all vac hoses yesterday. one thing i haven't seen much of in this thread is replacing the PCV valve. not sure if it is directly connected to the vac system, but i think mine was original. the rubber seal was like hard plastic. the valve was nasty clogged! i replaced it the same time i did all the hoses.

i did break a nipple off a VTV(blue). not sure how important those are, but will replace at some point.

i checked the EGR modulator filter and didn't seem to be too dirty.

I have the FSM and coming off the HAC, it lists an "Upper Right" and "Upper Left". is this standing at the fender looking into the driver-side of the engine? or looking from the passenger side?? would make a difference to which port it would connect to on the cluster of hoses.

also, there have been a few posts above that talk about 4 lines coming off the carb on the valve cover side?? not seeing these lines? can someone get a picture of them to be more specific? not seeing it in the FSM either.

doing what i did with the PCV valve and hose replacement, i feel like i have a new rig. almost racecar like!! will be interesting to see if my fuel mileage picks up significantly. have been only getting around 10-11.

jeff

HogZed · 12-29-07, 12:29 PM

Hey !!! I know what's wrong w/ mine now-I don't have a hose on the end of that pot to the right of the red " Circle" .

Where does that hose go to . ? This thread is crucial . I'm going to get hose RIGHT NOW !

Sacto60 · 01-26-08, 10:32 PM

My Toyota tech noticed the "stumbling" and we're trying the golf tees in the right and left hoses off the HAC. EGR seemed OK and the vacuum lines were OK too. He also mentioned that my rig just doesn't heat up to a good running temp and this may also contribute to the stumbling. Never thought that I'd run into trouble b/c I was running too cool at operating temps... So I'm changing out the thermostat- never knew there were TWO gaskets in that replacement- the big square'ish one around the housing and another smaller one inside.

hank14 · 01-27-08, 06:19 AM

I've got all my smog equipment hooked back up right now. I started at the beginning of the Factory emissions manual, replaced and checked the PCV valve, cleaned the charcoal cannister and replaced some hoses:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...ml#post2975570

I also cleaned the EGR modulator and am working on testing the other systems.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...ml#post2975324

It's running better, but still hesitates around 1800-2200 RPMs when going through the gears. One problem was I replaced some of the larger 5.5 mm vacuum hose with 6 mm hose from NAPA, and it isn't quite tight enough, so I used clamps on some of it. I think the slightly larger hose was causing small vacuum leaks. Toyota doesn't offer that size hose in bulk- only per application, so I am going to try and find the stock size in bulk and replace all of it.