Door panel removal (1 Viewer)

[Lated]

I had to tear into my door to replace a window that some jackass decided to smash out and since I know some people are intimidated by the door I figured I'd do a quick write-up.

This is what I woke up to on Christmas Eve (we had one window in three cars of our four cars broken, I had spares for the one that didn't)

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/lated22/New Window/IMG_8375_zps6dfe1a26.jpg

Tools: Phillips (#2, and #3), flat-blade screwdriver, window crank tool, and a helper



Step One: Strip the door. Speaker, arm rest, window crank, and door latch trim all need to come off. The door latch and arm rest are just held on with screws but the window crank is a little trickier. A tool like this makes for a much easier removal; just slide it between the crank and the trim ring. A flat-blade screwdriver can be used if it's all you've got. Be careful with the trim ring. Mine crumbled apart as soon as I touched it.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/lated22/New Window/DSCN8410_zpsf413b831.jpg

Make sure not to loose the clip that holds the crank on. Mine kept walking away with the assistance of my helper.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/lated22/New Window/DSCN8411_zpsd6d6ac28.jpg

Don't worry about the map pocket, it's attached to the door panel.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/lated22/New Window/DSCN8413_zps6ca7e509.jpg

Step Two: Now all the push-in fasteners along the perimeter of the door panel need to be popped out. The easiest way is to try to gently pry the panel off by hand, working your way around until you find one of the fasteners.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/lated22/New Window/DSCN8417_zps436ce684.jpg

Then you can slide the flat-blade in and just pop it apart. Work around the entire perimeter of the door until it will pull away from the door.

http://s87.beta.photobucket.com/user/lated22/media/New Window/DSCN8418_zps9e235054.jpg.html?sort=3&o=13

Step Three: Lift up on the panel to pull the inner window felt off the door. It seems to work best if you start by the door hinges and then move toward the outside of the door. It also helps to have the window rolled down all the way (not really a problem for me though )

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/lated22/New Window/DSCN8420_zps2a53d24a.jpg

Step Four: Yay! The panel is off. There should be a sheet of plastic under the door panel, try not to tear it as you remove the panel. Mine has been removed by a PO at some point (probably speaker upgrade) and not replaced. I don't know that the plastic is absolutely necessary, but I would imagine it helps keep dust and moisture off the back of the door panel. I'm not going to bother replacing mine at this point because I'll be back in here replacing weatherstripping soon, I hope.

I found an old For Sale sign in the door; haven't seen cruiser spelled quite like that before.



Step Five: If you are only replacing glass like I am (and if you still had the plastic in place), you only need to peel it up from the bottom two corners to allow access to the two bolts that hold the window channel to the regulator.





Step Six: Undo the two bolts pictured above and pull the glass out carefully. On the front doors the straight edge (latch side of the door) has to come out first as you let the mirror side drop into the door. It also needs to be pulled inside the door, following the curve of the glass. I assume the back doors are the same, but I haven't pulled one apart yet. Now you can replace weatherstripping, the window regulator, etc.

Step Seven: Installation is pretty much the opposite of removal, mirror edge of the glass goes in first, followed by the door latch side. Make sure the window is seated in both the front and back channels before you bolt it to the regulator. This is much easier to do with two people.

Step Eight: Reattach the plastic. I plan to use clear RTV since I have some laying around and a sheet of plastic drop cloth that seems about the same weight as the remains that were left on my door.

Step Nine: Drop the door panel back in place, making sure the window felt is seated completely (window cranked all the way down again).

Step Ten: Push all the push-in fasteners back in and reattach arm rest, speaker, etc. I didn't realize at first, but if you slide the clip on the window crank all the way back in (unlike the pic below) it will just push right on. I tried to put it back like this and then slide the clip in place after the crank was on--Pain in the ass. Just push it on.



Step Eleven:

 

[SteamerF18]

Good write up, thanks. Please post pics after you redo the plastic so we can see how that looks complete. I have the speaker upgrade from the PO in my rig and have no doubts there are only remnants of plastic left.

 

[srogers]

Great write up and pics! Bummer about the busted window...

 

[usmcruiser]

Step One: Strip the door. Speaker, arm rest, window crank, and door latch trim all need to come off. The door latch and arm rest are just held on with screws but the window crank is a little trickier. A tool like this makes for a much easier removal; just slide it between the crank and the trim ring. A flat-blade screwdriver can be used if it's all you've got. Be careful with the trim ring. Mine crumbled apart as soon as I touched it.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/lated22/New Window/DSCN8410_zpsf413b831.jpg

If you dont have that fancy tool a screwdriver can actually be difficult to get in there to get the window crank retaining pin off. As the handle of a screwdriver is too wide to get the right angle. What I was taught to do is grab a shop rag and put it behind the window crank and gently pull one end of it as if your were pulling a rope through a pulley. The retaining pin end will "hook" into the threads of the rag and then it will pop off. You just need to keep a sharp eye and ear out for when it pops so you can see where it lands. This is a super easy and fast way to get that stupid pin off.

 

[Super77]

Not good to use any old RTV for this. In addition to being very dificult to remove, certain kinds outgas acid and corrode metal. The correct material used at the factory to hold the moisture barrier is butyl rope caulk. However, duct tape works really well, too. I used the "real" kind, with a Mylar face, and the seal is better than factory. Any 3-4 poly sheeting will do for the barrier itself.

 

[gregnash]

Or if you cant find a screw driver you can actually use a towel like it shows in the FSM to take the clip off and it actually keeps it from launching itself. However, I have already lost my clip on my drivers side so I need to go and grab another, never tried just placing it on and them pushing the handle on.

Didn't realize you had to rotate the glass then pull it out, I fought with mine for an hour before finally using a piece of 1x1 wood to hold it up out of the way while I put my new regulator in.

 

[TallCanDan]

A pick set is very helpful with these window crank clips. I use the looped one second from left pictured below. This way if turned correctly the pick stays low profile while grabbing the closed end of the clip. The clip also stays on the pick and doesn't go flying across the garage/ driveway/ wherever.
I picked up this Husky set from the Home Depot yesterday, the 21st, on sale for $2.00! Regular price was 4.88.

 

[Lated]

Not good to use any old RTV for this. In addition to being very dificult to remove, certain kinds outgas acid and corrode metal. The correct material used at the factory to hold the moisture barrier is butyl rope caulk. However, duct tape works really well, too. I used the "real" kind, with a Mylar face, and the seal is better than factory. Any 3-4 poly sheeting will do for the barrier itself.

I'll keep that in mind. I've have plenty of duct tape lying around. On my door, it looked like the PO had tried to use brown packaging tape to hold the plastic on but then gave up and ripped it all off.

Or if you cant find a screw driver you can actually use a towel like it shows in the FSM to take the clip off and it actually keeps it from launching itself. However, I have already lost my clip on my drivers side so I need to go and grab another, never tried just placing it on and them pushing the handle on.

Didn't realize you had to rotate the glass then pull it out, I fought with mine for an hour before finally using a piece of 1x1 wood to hold it up out of the way while I put my new regulator in.

I had never heard of the towel trick, although usmcruiser mentioned it too. I may have to give it a try next time. It probably would have kept the plastic ring behind the crank from crumbling apart. I fought with my clip removal tool for quite awhile (tearing up the trim ring even more) before I realized I could just put it back on the handle and push it on; felt kinda dumb after that

A pick set is very helpful with these window crank clips. I use the looped one second from left pictured below. This way if turned correctly the pick stays low profile while grabbing the closed end of the clip. The clip also stays on the pick and doesn't go flying across the garage/ driveway/ wherever.
I picked up this Husky set from the Home Depot yesterday, the 21st, on sale for $2.00! Regular price was 4.88.

I've been meaning to get a set of picks like that for various hard to reach areas. Guess I know what I'm doing for lunch tomorrow.

 

[Iceman25th]

Good write up. Just changed doors. Pitched plastic. Decided it was in the way. Could not see how much help that it really was in the long run. Hope this was not a bad decision.

 

[Super77]

Good write up. Just changed doors. Pitched plastic. Decided it was in the way. Could not see how much help that it really was in the long run. Hope this was not a bad decision.

Your doors get water in them when it rains. Your door panels, if they are original, are made of particle board. You do the math.

BTW, having the panel off is a nice opportunity to clear out the drain holes at the bottom seam if the door. Amazing what gets in there.

 

[Lated]

Your doors get water in them when it rains. Your door panels, if they are original, are made of particle board. You do the math.

BTW, having the panel off is a nice opportunity to clear out the drain holes at the bottom seam if the door. Amazing what gets in there.

I've never found anything in doors, but I did find what was left of a screwdriver in the fender of my truck after it had been exposed to who knows how many years of rain and east coast salt--not much left but a handle.

 

[Iceman25th]

Your doors get water in them when it rains. Your door panels, if they are original, are made of particle board. You do the math.

BTW, having the panel off is a nice opportunity to clear out the drain holes at the bottom seam if the door. Amazing what gets in there.

That is a good point. The plastic was so ratty I pitched it. I guess ill think about finding something to replace it with.

 

[SmartyPants]

Good write up< i couldn't figure how to get the clip off, but this explained it quite easily. I was able to install 6 1/2" speakers without taking any plastic off or even removing the speaker grill on the door panel. All I had to do was rewire the ends to fit on my new speakers and drill new holes to line up with the old holes, I used the stock screws to put it back in too. Now I can crank it a bit without it sounding like the stock speakers are about to self destruct.

 

[Lated]

Glad to help. I still haven't gotten around to replacing the plastic in my doors; mainly because I haven't replaced the weatherstripping yet. Still on the list of things to do, but other things keep cropping up that take precedence.

 

[enfield]

Great write up!
I was having hell getting the top part out of the door. I found this thread and was able to remove it, without fear of damaging the panel.
Also realized how easy it will be to make some custom panels...

 

[sitesbyjoe]

Thanks for mentioning why you should replace the plastic. In the middle of a door replacement now and was gonna be lazy and skip it

 

[Landpimp]

nice write up!

the little plastic cup behind the hand crank is pretty cheap from Toyota, just replaced mine. I try to keep an extra clip around.....because I loose it every-time....always found in the door pocket...but after crawling on my hands and knees for too long. I use the towel trick and then put the clip on the handle and push on.

when I did my window reg, I just taped(around door frame) the window in the up position.

the window reg and window also need to be adjusted, I forget which but 2 of the bolts(thru door into reg) have adjustment in them, if its off it binds or does not ride in the chanel right

bought a tool 20 years ago that helps with the door clips, not needed but handy

 

[buddysharp]

I had to tear into my door to replace a window that some jackass decided to smash out and since I know some people are intimidated by the door I figured I'd do a quick write-up.

This is what I woke up to on Christmas Eve (we had one window in three cars of our four cars broken, I had spares for the one that didn't)

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/lated22/New Window/IMG_8375_zps6dfe1a26.jpg

Tools: Phillips (#2, and #3), flat-blade screwdriver, window crank tool, and a helper



Step One: Strip the door. Speaker, arm rest, window crank, and door latch trim all need to come off. The door latch and arm rest are just held on with screws but the window crank is a little trickier. A tool like this makes for a much easier removal; just slide it between the crank and the trim ring. A flat-blade screwdriver can be used if it's all you've got. Be careful with the trim ring. Mine crumbled apart as soon as I touched it.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/lated22/New Window/DSCN8410_zpsf413b831.jpg

Make sure not to loose the clip that holds the crank on. Mine kept walking away with the assistance of my helper.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/lated22/New Window/DSCN8411_zpsd6d6ac28.jpg

Don't worry about the map pocket, it's attached to the door panel.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/lated22/New Window/DSCN8413_zps6ca7e509.jpg

Step Two: Now all the push-in fasteners along the perimeter of the door panel need to be popped out. The easiest way is to try to gently pry the panel off by hand, working your way around until you find one of the fasteners.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/lated22/New Window/DSCN8417_zps436ce684.jpg

Then you can slide the flat-blade in and just pop it apart. Work around the entire perimeter of the door until it will pull away from the door.

http://s87.beta.photobucket.com/user/lated22/media/New Window/DSCN8418_zps9e235054.jpg.html?sort=3&o=13

Step Three: Lift up on the panel to pull the inner window felt off the door. It seems to work best if you start by the door hinges and then move toward the outside of the door. It also helps to have the window rolled down all the way (not really a problem for me though )

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/lated22/New Window/DSCN8420_zps2a53d24a.jpg

Step Four: Yay! The panel is off. There should be a sheet of plastic under the door panel, try not to tear it as you remove the panel. Mine has been removed by a PO at some point (probably speaker upgrade) and not replaced. I don't know that the plastic is absolutely necessary, but I would imagine it helps keep dust and moisture off the back of the door panel. I'm not going to bother replacing mine at this point because I'll be back in here replacing weatherstripping soon, I hope.

I found an old For Sale sign in the door; haven't seen cruiser spelled quite like that before.



Step Five: If you are only replacing glass like I am (and if you still had the plastic in place), you only need to peel it up from the bottom two corners to allow access to the two bolts that hold the window channel to the regulator.





Step Six: Undo the two bolts pictured above and pull the glass out carefully. On the front doors the straight edge (latch side of the door) has to come out first as you let the mirror side drop into the door. It also needs to be pulled inside the door, following the curve of the glass. I assume the back doors are the same, but I haven't pulled one apart yet. Now you can replace weatherstripping, the window regulator, etc.

Step Seven: Installation is pretty much the opposite of removal, mirror edge of the glass goes in first, followed by the door latch side. Make sure the window is seated in both the front and back channels before you bolt it to the regulator. This is much easier to do with two people.

Step Eight: Reattach the plastic. I plan to use clear RTV since I have some laying around and a sheet of plastic drop cloth that seems about the same weight as the remains that were left on my door.

Step Nine: Drop the door panel back in place, making sure the window felt is seated completely (window cranked all the way down again).

Step Ten: Push all the push-in fasteners back in and reattach arm rest, speaker, etc. I didn't realize at first, but if you slide the clip on the window crank all the way back in (unlike the pic below) it will just push right on. I tried to put it back like this and then slide the clip in place after the crank was on--Pain in the ass. Just push it on.



Step Eleven:

Years later, but thank you LATED for an awesome write-up. Window glass slipped off the sissor arm (looks like a spot weld came un-done) and couldn't close the window in advance of another Central California "atmospheric river". Popped the door panel off per your guidance, moved the window glass back onto the scissor rail and closed the window in advance of the ******* deluge later tonight. Gotta figure out how to fix how the glass channel attaches to the scissor but will wait until the sun shines again!