[dogboy2]

Thought I'd add some "meat" to the '60's horn system by upgrading the weak tit sounding OEM factory jobs to some aftermarket Freeway Blasters by FIAMM.

Brought home two matching horns and patched them into the factory wiring (didn't maime the factory wiring) and could not get both horns to work when wired up at the same time. Could get one to work by itself or in conjunction with one of the factory horns but not both of the new ones at the same time.

Here's the weird part: both new horns work fine when hooked up individually to the horn wiring on the driver's side. Neither new horn will work when hooked up to the horn wiring on the passenger side

And, when I hook up one new Blaster on the driver's side along with one original factory horn on the passenger side, I can get both of them to work together at the same time But should I remove the factory horn and substitute a new Blaster, all I get is a heavy sounded click and no horns at all.

Removed both Blasters and put the old factory horns back in their respective spots and, viola!, no horn problems only the weak tit sounding beep beep of the OEM setup.

Questions: are the new horns drawing more amps than the OEM and not getting enough juice to fire, hence the heavy click sound? If so, do I need to add a relay somewhere in between to compensate? And why do the new horns only work when hooked up to the driver's side wiring and not the passenger's?

Sorry for the long post but wanted to paint as clear of a picture as possible,
Thanks,
-dogboy- '87 FJ60

[lovetoski]

I installed two fiamme horns, and had the same problem. Went back to the store where I bought the horns, and found a "horn relay" right next to the horns...wired it up and now can blast away with the best of them!

The horn relay I have has three terminals. One from the original harness (signal input). A second that's direct from the battery (provides the extra amps for the new horns) and the third goes to the two new horns. Pretty simple.

Turns out that you can keep your OEM horns in place, and functional if you want. (More is better - right?) Just splice into the the existing harness to get an input signal...

HTH!

[dogboy2]

Doug,
you are the MAN!!

Figured somebody had run into this one before and you confirmed my suspicion regarding the amp draw and the need for a relay.

Now, does it matter which factory horn wire I tap into as the input signal source? Passenger or Driver's side, solid green wire, or green wire with white tracer?

The FIAMM instructions say the new horn terminals aren't polarity specific which seems odd to me and my budding understanding of all things electrical, but then again, what do I know....

4 horns?! LOL!!! now that would be something.....

Thanks for the help,
-dogboy- '87 FJ60

[lovetoski]

I checked to see which OEM horn wire I tapped into, but since I put it's all neat and tidy inside of split loom, closed off with zip ties...

However, I'm pretty sure I used the hot wire as the signal wire. Use a test probe, while somebody leans on the horn. You can also use aligator clips to temporily attache wires, to confirm everything works (If ya can't figure it out, trial and error can work too...not that I would ever do that!!)

I'm pretty sure that the horn terminals aren't polarity specific, but one has to get + and the other has to be grounded, so you need to identify the hot OEM wire.

I put the relay on the PS, and tapped into the OEM horn wires on the PS also. This made for shorter wire run from the battery.

HTH - if not let me know.

[dogboy2]

Doug,

again, many thanks....

I'll see what kind of trouble I can get myself into with all of this after I track down that relay

-db-

[boerboel313]

I installed some plug and play Hellas and love them, but next I'm going in the air horn.