Timing on the 2F

CruzerCrazy · 03-11-10, 04:16 PM

Does anybody know where my rotor should be pointed when my flywheel mark is
the line(TDC) vs the BB (7 deg before)?

orin · 03-11-10, 04:58 PM

Are you talking about cylinder position? rotor position?

orin · 03-11-10, 05:28 PM

oh i see it now sorry. you were talking about the rotor for some reason i seen motor. anyway if you are are on cylinder one and on TDC mark on the flywheel the rotor should be pointing to number one spark wire on the cap of the the distributor. as far as noticing a difference i don't think you can tell. it is a small diffrence. at least that is my exprience.

SDFJ60JFK · 03-11-10, 06:41 PM

I just was doing the timing on my 60 and if you are at the BB on the fly wheel at the TDC of compression stroke for the #1 cylinder your rotor should be just to the right of the top screw for the distributor cap, when fully seated in the block. Then you should be able to time it with the timing light.

HTH John

1tontoy · 03-11-10, 06:43 PM

I adjust the valves when the cruiser is running...much easier.

CruzerCrazy · 03-12-10, 08:59 AM

I thought the BB was 7 deg before and the line was the TDC. So I conclude that my rotor should be pointing straight at the #1 plug.

Either way I think I am screwed. I bought a brand new HEI milled for the 2F which has worked great until about 4 months ago. What happened was the rotor shafter started wearing on the magnetic pickup coil and eventully got down to the wires, shorted and walla no spark. So, I fixed it and also up in a new Weber 38 (that thing rocks!). 4 months later same thing happens except this time my timing is all out of wack.

Is it possible for the timing chain to jump teeth. Cause that is what I am thinking happened.

No I am really bummed cause I down to only on Cruiser and it's not working.

Help!!!

fliphkd778 · 03-12-10, 09:18 AM

No timing chain on a 2f, nor could it have jumped teeth. I would put the old oem dizzy back on.

CruzerCrazy · 03-12-10, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fliphkd778

No timing chain on a 2f, nor could it have jumped teeth. I would put the old oem dizzy back on.

Yeah, I tried that. I have to retard the time as far back as it will go. And then it runs like two legged horse. I have never heard a 2F that rough. Bent valve? Maybe me plugs are fouled. One way it back fires via exhaust and other via the carb/intake.

I am going Cruzer Crazy and not in a good way!

fliphkd778 · 03-12-10, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruzerCrazy

Yeah, I tried that. I have to retard the time as far back as it will go. And then it runs like two legged horse. I have never heard a 2F that rough. Bent valve? Maybe me plugs are fouled. One way it back fires via exhaust and other via the carb/intake.

I am going Cruzer Crazy and not in a good way!

If you had to retard it to get it to run, could you have possibly put the dizzy in a few teeth off?

klinetime574 · 03-12-10, 04:05 PM

Whether its the HEI or OEM it can be reasoned both ways:

The rotor on the distributor should be pointed at or very close to where spark plug wire #1 goes into the cap when the line is lined up with the needle on the bellhousing. Then the distributor body rotates counter-clockwise to retard timing, clockwise to advance.

The distributor can be put in a tooth or two off. Before you have it seated you can twist the distributor and make sure that the rotor will always kind of be at a middle point, rather than having a lot of advance until the body stops rotating or a lot of retard before the body stops rotating.

That happened to me and I reasoned it out like in the previous paragraph and I had the BB right next to the needle when I timed it.

I had an HEI until it blew up on me. Now I'm rollin with the OEM and it feels the same power wise.

CruzerCrazy · 03-12-10, 04:49 PM

Okay,

My mom dropped me on my head at least a dozen times. Be that as it may, I thought there was only one way to stick the dizzy because of slot that it must fit at the bottom to seat. So it is either the right way or bass akwards. (guys please resist and don't touch that

Am I missing something? Please tell me now before I jack it up more than I already have....

klinetime574 · 03-12-10, 04:52 PM

The slot at the bottom is the oil pump drive. It can rotate with a flat head screwdriver.

Search for "static timing" Should get ya thinking more better

CruzerCrazy · 03-12-10, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klinetime574

The slot at the bottom is the oil pump drive. It can rotate with a flat head screwdriver.

Search for "static timing" Should get ya thinking more better

For some reason I was wondering about that. Checking fist thing in the AM.

Still going back to the original dizzy though. Some things just were not meant
to be........

lehiguy · 03-13-10, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruzerCrazy

For some reason I was wondering about that. Checking fist thing in the AM.

Still going back to the original dizzy though. Some things just were not meant
to be........

The HEIs work because the advance curve is better. The overall quality of the OEM distributor is far, far superior with a ball-bearing instead of a stupid bushing. A recurve on the stock distributor works wonders.