[Spook50]

I'm leaning away from MAF's shackle reversal kit and again leaning towards going SOA with a home brew shackle reversal. I'm going to move my rear shackle mounts forward an inch to allow for a better shackle angle (as it is they're nearly vertical with stock length shackles), and I'd like to go ahead and do the SR in the front if possible. I know the caster angle is going to change quite a bit when doing the reversal, but I'm wondering if it's enough to be compensated for with caster correction shims, or if I'm going to absolutely have to cut n' turn the axle housing for the SR. I'd like to wait until I actually go SOA before cutting and turning the axle housing, which is why I was wondering about shims with the SR.

Also, anyone who's done their own SR (ie: without a kit) have any pics they can share of what they did?

[alaska60]

I'll watch this too as I am interested in homebrew products.... Id rather fab when I can.... saves on the pocket!
Good thread Jack!

[Tapage]

if you do your own SR with a short close to the fram front fixed point you will found horrible caster numbers .. that will drive you in a C&T .. that's actually IMOP necesary for any SO ..

the reazon for the lower fixed in ths MAF shackle reversal it's to keep as much as posible the caster relation ..

[Spook50]

Originally Posted by Tapage

if you do your own SR with a short close to the fram front fixed point you will found horrible caster numbers .. that will drive you in a C&T .. that's actually IMOP necesary for any SO ..

the reazon for the lower fixed in ths MAF shackle reversal it's to keep as much as posible the caster relation ..

Yeah I know doing that method of SR (which is what I want to do) will give me bad caster if it isn't compensated for. I'm just wondering how bad it'll be. More than 6 degrees likely? If it's 6 or less, I'm hoping I could correct with shims and wait until I go SOA before cutting and turning the axle.

[Wile E Coyote]

One number I remember from Chicago's build was 13 degrees. I don't recall it that was his final #, as he was learning as he went and I could have overlooked any revisions.

Also, refer to the pics in this recent thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...ml#post4944284 From the pics, Nailed totally nailed a clean front SOA project. Granted, I assume from the thread topic those are rear springs up front, but they do illustrate severe pinion angles (pre final install, of course)

[Spook50]

Originally Posted by Wile E Coyote

One number I remember from Chicago's build was 13 degrees. I don't recall it that was his final #, as he was learning as he went and I could have overlooked any revisions.

Also, refer to the pics in this recent thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...ml#post4944284 From the pics, Nailed totally nailed a clean front SOA project. Granted, I assume from the thread topic those are rear springs up front, but they do illustrate severe pinion angles (pre final install, of course)

13-15 sounds about right for a combination SOA and SR (without using MAF's kit), from what I could see by eyeballing other peoples' projects. I'm still having trouble figuring out it just a shackle reversal with stock spring under axle configuration will throw the angle way off.

I like how Nailed did his shackle reversal too. I wonder if it's served him well. Looking at the bare springs (looks like rears up front?) it looks like with his SOA and SR he ended up a hell of an angle he had to compensate for when he did his cut n' turn.

Really I just want to (if possible) do the shackle reversal and compensate for the caster angle using shims, and then wait until I go SOA before I do a cut n' turn. If it's not possible, then, well, fuggit...

I'm really curious now as to what differences were noticed in moving the rear springs up front and using Chevy 63" spring in the back made, too.

[TBIFJ40]

DONT use shims in the front! I dont care what anybody says, it flat out isnt safe, especially if you wheel the thing at all; the springs flex and move around, which can crush the aluminum shims, causing them to come loose and leave the vehicle at the wrong time! You could make metal ones and weld them to the perches, but really the right way to do it is to get the springs into as close to the same angle as they were stock and work from there. Caster needs to be at about 4 degrees, and you can go pretty steep with the pinion anagle if you do a cut and turn, which you may not need to do if you use a stock spring that are sagging a little. If the caster isnt at the 4 degrees it wont hadle well. Less than 4, it wanders, more than 4, and it falls into turns like and old style road grader. When you position the axle, take into consideration that the axle now moves forward when the suspension sags, and back when it compresses, which was the opposite of before. You'll probably need a longer drive shaft, and at this point might as well move the axle forward a little. The rear 60 or 62 springs work well in the front, if youre going that far.

[Slowerthanu]

Originally Posted by TBIFJ40

DONT use shims in the front! I dont care what anybody says, it flat out isnt safe, especially if you wheel the thing at all; the springs flex and move around, which can crush the aluminum shims, causing them to come loose and leave the vehicle at the wrong time! You could make metal ones and weld them to the perches, but really the right way to do it is to get the springs into as close to the same angle as they were stock and work from there. Caster needs to be at about 4 degrees, and you can go pretty steep with the pinion anagle if you do a cut and turn, which you may not need to do if you use a stock spring that are sagging a little. If the caster isnt at the 4 degrees it wont hadle well. Less than 4, it wanders, more than 4, and it falls into turns like and old style road grader. When you position the axle, take into consideration that the axle now moves forward when the suspension sags, and back when it compresses, which was the opposite of before. You'll probably need a longer drive shaft, and at this point might as well move the axle forward a little. The rear 60 or 62 springs work well in the front, if youre going that far.

Metal shims work fine bolted to the spring pin. I ran them for two years SUA until I went so.

[Slowerthanu]

Honestly, I would wait and do everything at once. It is time consuming work and you can nail your geometry on the first try without having to make revisions.

[Spook50]

Originally Posted by TBIFJ40

DONT use shims in the front! I dont care what anybody says, it flat out isnt safe, especially if you wheel the thing at all; the springs flex and move around, which can crush the aluminum shims, causing them to come loose and leave the vehicle at the wrong time! You could make metal ones and weld them to the perches, but really the right way to do it is to get the springs into as close to the same angle as they were stock and work from there. Caster needs to be at about 4 degrees, and you can go pretty steep with the pinion anagle if you do a cut and turn, which you may not need to do if you use a stock spring that are sagging a little. If the caster isnt at the 4 degrees it wont hadle well. Less than 4, it wanders, more than 4, and it falls into turns like and old style road grader. When you position the axle, take into consideration that the axle now moves forward when the suspension sags, and back when it compresses, which was the opposite of before. You'll probably need a longer drive shaft, and at this point might as well move the axle forward a little. The rear 60 or 62 springs work well in the front, if youre going that far.

Okay nixing the idea of doing the SR before going SOA. I am considering moving my rear springs to the front and installing Chevy 63s in the rear as well (be nice if I could do THAT before the SOA conversion). Hopefully I can get with a couple of the local Spokane guys towards the end of next Summer to do the job, which will also involve regearing for 35s and installing Auburns as well. Gonna be a busy doing that project. I might just have to take two weeks or so of leave so I can make sure I have plenty of time to do it