[MT-PTK]

So I appear to be experiencing some carb issues and I've been running some things down. Talked with some cruiser folks today who recommend running a Weber on a de-smogged rig. I did some recon in the archives and found opinions running both ways. These threads were from 06 and 05 and dealt more with comparisons to OEM. Any new thoughts out there since then? Anyone running them on a de-smogged rig?

Thanks,
William

[lehiguy]

I ran a Weber on a desmogged rig for a very long time. It worked flawlessly once I got it tuned. Don't expect that ANY out-of-the-box carb will be just right the minute you put it on. Get the 38/38, the others are too small. Get your distributor recurved and you will be amazed how well it runs. Might as well go with a header too, the stock manifold isn't exactly performance oriented.

[farflung]

What all is involved in getting the dizzy recurved?

[SARCruiser]

PO desmogged and put the Weber 38 on mine and tuned it at the time he put it in. I haven't really messed with it since I bought it but it runs good. Between the header, the Weber and 31s, I can do 75-80 on the highway (according to my GPS) without too much effort. Still takes a while to get there but isn't as gutless as stock is.

If you get a Weber, buy their idle fuel cut-off solenoid as well. It doesn't come with the carb but it'll keep your truck from dieseling when you shut it off. You'll almost definitely want to get a jet set for it too since very rarely does the stock jet setup in the Webers actually turn out to be the set you need once you really tune it, especially if you live anywhere other than sea-level.

[jeverich]

For the most part, I have nothing negative to report back on the Weber. Put one on my rig last year- been running well since.

I'm hoping that this thread does not turn into yet another OEM vs. Weber thread - that argument has been raging on for years.

Through my personal experience the Weber has done just fine. It does take a few minutes to warm up in the winter due to the lack of the fluid heat riser (running headers). However, if you choose to go the header route...buy the tried and true MAF ceramics. I went with JTOs garbage. Had to pull them off and weld a bead around the horns - even that didn't completely solve the warpage/leak issue. I've got a Remflex gasket waiting to go on.

Yes, the Weber jets supplied with the kit are probably not going to be adequate...

Make sure that you plane the bottome of the adapter plate/studs. The studs are too long - which will lead to a vac. leak down the road.

Also - do yourself a favor and buy the plate that'll adapt the Weber to accept either a standard round 10" filter (maximum size before you'll hit the MC), or the adapter that'll let you keep the stock air cleaner.

- jake

[Downey]

Originally Posted by jeverich

For the most part, I have nothing negative to report back on the Weber. Put one on my rig last year- been running well since.

I'm hoping that this thread does not turn into yet another OEM vs. Weber thread - that argument has been raging on for years.

- jake

Jake, let me turn this into yet another OEM vs Weber vs Holley argument.
1. OE carbs are very good for those who want to constantly rebuild their carburetor. Need proof? Just read all the rebuild AND re-rebuild post on this forum!!!
2. Webers are simple and very good for highway people. There has never been a successful way to baffle their float bowl to prevent spillage in off road terrain.
3. Holleys are the worst of the choices for those who think they do not have to set them up for off road use (this is the group who bad mouth Holleys on forums). Once fully baffled (sealed baffle) and chimney installed, those who have done this are amoung the happiest campers on the planet!!!
Just my 2 cents!!!

[MT-PTK]

Thanks for the advice folks!

Jake,
I had a good discussion with Joe and Chris on the matter earlier this afternoon at their place.


Take care,
William