[Moby]

I'm about to install caster plates which may push me towards needing a DC front driveshaft in my FJ-62. I believe, correct me if I'm wrong, that pre '85 60s (before the space was added to the back 4 speed tranny), had a DC front driveshaft. Will this shaft fit an FJ-62? I can have it lengthened locally if needed (if I bought a used one I'd have it balanced so it would go to the driveshaft ship anyway). Just curious if it would be a bolt in.

[dgangle]

the DC DS is used when you point the diff at the TC. Are you adding shims to do this or increase the caster? If the latter, a DCSC ain't going to help.

The 82-84 DCDS's are getting hard to find and pricey. Of course whenever this subject comes up someone invariably chimes in saying they can buy 'em all day long for $25 but never produces the proof.

No idea on the flange patterns.

[Cruiserdrew]

Flange pattern won't bolt up but you can redrill the round flanges of the FJ62.

You can also swap in the earlier flanges at both diff and t-case.

As mentioned, they are getting a bit hard to find. I run them front and rear in my FJ60 and in the rear on my FJ40.

There are some mini-truck shafts with the Koyo double cardan joint, with yet another flange and bolt pattern. they could be made to work with some redrilling of the flanges.

[GLTHFJ60]

The u-joint in the single joint end of the early shaft is the same as the later shaft, so when I had my DC shaft rebuilt I had them put on the later drive flange so I could bolt it up to my differential. I drilled out the flange for my t-case on a press and it worked great.

FYI - later 40 driveshaft pattern is the same as the pre 86 60 series cruisers. Post 85 60's have the square driveshaft pattern, which is the same as the 62.

[Moby]

Originally Posted by dgangle

the DC DS is used when you point the diff at the TC. Are you adding shims to do this or increase the caster? If the latter, a DCSC ain't going to help.

I'm going from 1* positive to 4* positive, so my diff flange will point away from the T/C (down). At one point it was suggested to me that a DC shaft could help if this caused problems, but it sounds like this isn't correct?

[Matt60]

Originally Posted by dgangle

The 82-84 DCDS's are getting hard to find and pricey. Of course whenever this subject comes up someone invariably chimes in saying they can buy 'em all day long for $25 but never produces the proof.

should i put this back in the garage?

[dgangle]

Originally Posted by Matt60

should i put this back in the garage?

I'll give you $25 for it. All day long.

Originally Posted by Moby

I'm going from 1* positive to 4* positive, so my diff flange will point away from the T/C (down). At one point it was suggested to me that a DC shaft could help if this caused problems, but it sounds like this isn't correct?

+4* caster will steer real nice..you'll like it easpecially on rutted-out roads.

The DC-end goes towards the TC. You are trying to correct an extreme U-joint angle caused by increasing your caster. The DCDS alone will not fix this problem. You need to cut and turn your front axle, pointing the output flange at the TC, then use a DCDS altered to the proper length.

Does the person who suggested this know what they're talking about or was some of the message left out or misunderstood?

[Cruiserdrew]

Since this is an Fj62, you will be better off using a standard driveshaft. You are actually making the angle worse for a double cardan shaft. Remember a DC shaft needs a very particular geometry, otherwise you will be better off just running the existing shaft.

By caster "plates" I assume you mean shims. Why not just shoot for 1-2 degrees and simplify your drive shaft angles. At 2 degrees it will steer fine, and you're 2 degrees closer to a proper driveshaft angle.

The other alternative is the best. Point the pinion directly at the t-case flange, and do a cut and turn to correct the caster. Then your driveshaft will run happy.

[dgangle]

..or you coud do a double double cardan joint...you know one on each end. Badass had/has one like that.

Cruiserdrew makes some good points.

[motoloco]

If this is for a 62, and you have 4" or less lift, you can point the front pinion at the t-case and still have decent caster without a cut and turn. You will need a DC shaft for this. But before you spend the time/$ on a DC, set it up with the angles alike at the pinion and t-case and use a conventional shaft, well balanced, in phase, with good u-joints. You may not need the DC. Good luck.

[Moby]

Thanks guys, this is all good data. As you can tell, driveshaft and driveline tech is not somewhere I've spent much time My goal with increasing my caster is better high speed stability and better control on washboard. I'm only running OME heavy up front (and am about to pull a leaf when I put the caster shims in which will probably leave me right around 2" of lift). Front driveshaft has been rebuilt and balanced.

The reason that I'm worried that 3* more caster might be a problem is that when I was running Alcan 2.5" springs I had some grinding noise/moderate vibration in 4WD high during deceleration between 35-25mph only (this is common for me coming down the passes in WA during ski season so this is a problem for me even though it was pretty isolated). This only happened after I went to 4.56 gears.

I was never happy with my Alcans for a number of reasons and when I swapped to my current OMEs the grinding and vibration went away completely (still with 4.56 gears). I'm not sure why. I don't believe that it has anything to do with gear set up - they are quiet and smooth under all other conditions. My rear gears were recently looked at by ARB while debugging some air locker issues and they said they were set up very well.

So now that I'm about to make my pinion angle worse I'm considering my options. Ultimately if I like the 4* caster a cut and turn is definitely an option for me (I'd probably go to 5* or 5.5* total with a cut and turn if I like 4* total with the shims).

Anyway I'm going to run the shims and see what happens.