[Gabbo]

Well, I just ordered a knuckle rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters. It should be here tomorrow or Friday. This is for my 1981 FJ60... in case you were wondering.
I'll be picking up a bunch of bearing grease, some differential oil, degreaser, brake cleaner, towels, towels, and more towels. I've already got all the tools, and plenty of cardboard as not to slop grease and oil on the garage floor too badly. Anything else I should have ready before hand?
A clunk started a couple weeks ago from the Passenger's side front hub as I would turn or hit bumps in the road. I pulled that hub apart hoping for the best and found the worst. The grease was a runny soup and it was leaking out of the inner hub seal and spinning out all over the brakes. I took a good look around the whole front axle and found that the soupy grease was leaking out both knuckles.
So it looks like a knuckle re-build is in order and I hope to finish it before noon on Saturday, I will document the process with pictures because we all know that that's everyone's favorite part of lame threads.

[augirthedude]

small buckets to put under each side to catch the 90w as it spills out the axle housing when you remove the axles/birf's . even if you drain the axle housing there will still be gear lube there... all the tools you wil need ... flat sided spring clip pliers are handy for the special snap ring on the hub end of the axles,,,seal drifts ,race drifts, Moly grease for the birf's ..... my 2 cents.

[mr natural]

Subscribing. I'll be in your shoes in a few months.

Where do you get the drifts?

[Gabbo]

Drifts: Check
Buckets: I'll swipe some from work...
And "Moly grease"... I'll put that on the list!

Those stupid snap rings came off with the old locking hubs and never went back on with the WARNs. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be that way...

[Brock]

I also will be doing a knuckle rebuild this saturday..my first...so hopefully the guy that is teaching me will be gentle.

I would promise pictures but as nasty of a job as it is I dont want my camera anywhere near the ordeal...LOL

Got my kit from CCOT....

[jeverich]

Heavy duty gloves - I've got a case of Diamond Grips IIRC

Degreaser/5 Gallon Bucket or tub (to soak Birfs in)

Parts cleaner brush

Brake cleaner (works really well to get all of that nasty flung grease off of brakes, etc.)

Rubber and Brass Mallet/Hammer

Torque Wrench

Fish Scale

54 mm socket. Don't try and use to 'screwdriver method'. Believe me, all that you'll accomplish is mangling the nut and getting mad.

GOOD set of snap ring pliers (Not the VATOzone OEM brand) - Don't ask why I know.

It seems like you've got everything else.

Oh and Beer - you'll need it.

-jake

[Randy88FJ62]

You need to download the Chasis FSM. It has all the directions about assembly and disassembly of the front axle components.

Here is a picture of what you need for the rebuild. I did not include paper towels because I ran out.


Close up of the snap ring pliers and c-clip pliers. I do not recommend buying the combo at sears that allows you to change out the tips. They shift and do not work well. If you are on a budget then they are your friend.


Here is a chart of all the torque values:


Have fun, it's messy:


Label your shims when you take them off. If you mess them up you're in trouble and will have to rebuild the axle again.

[wengejor]

toilet paper is less expensive.... let's see it.

[gsdog2]

Go to your local metal surplus/supply store and find a length of brass rod (I found 1/2" round) for the drifts. Was about $12 total for a 3 ft. length and I cut them down to about 1 ft. lengths. Fits the notches on the top and bottom of the knuckle perfectly to pound the bearing races out. Also, I placed the rod across the top of the bearing races to pound the new ones back in without damage.

[Rigger]

Looks like you guys have thought of everything.

Wear safety glasses when using degreaser.

[JLH911]

Get yourself some cheap-o plastic drop cloths from Home Depot or whatever.

You can spread it wide open and not worry about messing up your garage floor.

Also, make sure you keep each side's hardware together and I'd use some zip-loc bags and a marker to keep all the pieces together in a marked bag.

Take pictures as you disassemble. It helped me when putting it back together.

[ElliottB]

Just as a clarification, it's a LOCK ring on the shaft. Not a snap ring. Damn near impossible to use snap ring pliers on that thing.

[toomanymachines]

I will have to keep one eye on this thread, as I have a 60 that needs this job done.

[Gabbo]

Originally Posted by Brock

I would promise pictures but as nasty of a job as it is I dont want my camera anywhere near the ordeal...LOL

I was thinking about this today and decided to wrap my camera in a plastic baggy and clear tape. Then cut a little hole for the lens to pop through.

[Randy88FJ62]

Originally Posted by ElliottB

Just as a clarification, it's a LOCK ring on the shaft. Not a snap ring. Damn near impossible to use snap ring pliers on that thing.

I use both pliers in the picture above. When taking apart the hub you use both. That's if you want to even tear apart the hub. not necessary to go that deep into it unless you want to check every piece.

[pcperks]

Watching this as well. Lots and lots of pictures please. I've got to do this within the next month or so when I get the time.

[Gabbo]

Well, the kit came today and I started into it with the hopes of having everything apart and cleaned ready to be lubed and put back together tomorrow. But I've hit my first snag: The brake line from the brake caliper is a hard line that goes up to the top of the knuckle and goes into a fitting that goes into the flexible line. But that fitting is welded to the dust cover. I cannot remove the flex line from the fitting because it just twists the whole line all up. Do I really have to take the whole line apart from the axle just to get the blasted dust cover off?

Before

Locking hub removed

Locking hub removed

[Gabbo]

Hub Removed

The spindle

The brake line that wont let go

[wengejor]

I would disconnect the brake line at the union on the axle. Use a flat head screwdriver to dis-lodge the spring clip (underneath) holding it onto the bracket.

[Gabbo]

While waiting for a reply (thanks, by the way, I'll be sure to do it the right way on the other side) I just got angry and forced the dust cover off still hooked to the brake line. I don't think I ruined anything, but I finally got it off. Here's pics:

removed axle shaft and Birfield Joint


The knuckle


The slew of parts

[wengejor]

Looks pretty goopy...did you get the marlin crawler axle seals? If not, I would seriously recommend to order them. The factory ones that comes in Kurt's kit are not as robust.

[ElliottB]

Looks familiar.

Pop that birf apart and clean it while you've already gone so far.

[Gabbo]

did you get the marlin crawler axle seals?

Yes, I sure did. I heard the words "Heavy duty" and before the guy finished I said, "Yes! I want those!"

popped the inner hub seal out with this


here's my hammer and brass drift, just put it against the race via the two grooves on either side of the hub and pound it out.


Here's one of the bearing races popped out:

[wengejor]

Cool, looks like you're moving right along.

[Gabbo]

Pop that birf apart and clean it while you've already gone so far.

Will do, it's just that the vice is all the way downstairs in the basement...

Well, I put the new races in with a handy race pounding thingy:


They are set!


I was also able to remove the bottom spindle thing that the whole knuckle pivots on, but the one of top with the steering arm I cannot get to move. Are those cone washers in that thing? Anyone got any good tips for popping them out? I would post pics but I forgot to snap some of them and now I'm all ready for bed. So first thing in the morning, I promise!

[Randy88FJ62]

Originally Posted by Gabbo

Well, I put the new races back in with a handy race pounding thingy:
Attachment 363843

They are set!
Attachment 363844

I was also able to remove the bottom spindle thing that the whole knuckle pivots on, but the one of top with the steering arm I cannot get to move. Are those cone washers in that thing? Anyone got any good tips for popping them out? I would post pics but I forgot to snap some of them and now I'm all ready for bed. So first thing in the morning, I promise!

Yes, there are cone washers in there. Use your brass punch and a hammer.

[Gabbo]

Yes, there are cone washers in there. Use your brass punch and a hammer.

Thanks man!
I think once I get this side done, the other side will be almost easy.

[JLH911]

Since you have this apart right now, you might want to do what I was told would save me a lot of trouble later.

This allows you to remove the brake line from the plate without having to open up the brake lines, which in turn will save you from having to bleed the brakes.

I used a cut off tool and cut the heads off the "rivet" type things and had two lock nuts welded to the back side of the plate. This way I could bolt on the brake line union to the plate from now on.

[Randy88FJ62]

Looks clean Jose, nice dust shields. They will never be as good as my FJ62 ones. We got scoops because we go faster...

[Micah]

Originally Posted by JLH911

Since you have this apart right now, you might want to do what I was told would save me a lot of trouble later.

This allows you to remove the brake line from the plate without having to open up the brake lines, which in turn will save you from having to bleed the brakes.

I used a cut off tool and cut the heads off the "rivet" type things and had two lock nuts welded to the back side of the plate. This way I could bolt on the brake line union to the plate from now on.

I also did this last time in did my knuckles and it makes life much easier in the long run. Highly suggest doing this.