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Old 10-25-09, 11:40 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabbo View Post
Thanks! Yes, I did bend them, thanks for looking out for me though!

It already feels tons better driving around. I think next on my list will be a tie-rod end kit, then to have an alignment done. Looks like I'll be calling Cruiser Outfitters again!
Good work man...where in east Idaho do you live?


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Old 10-26-09, 07:22 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Good work man...where in east Idaho do you live?
Same town you do, actually. Maybe we've seen each other driving around!

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Old 10-26-09, 09:39 AM   #63 (permalink)
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What's your truck look like?

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Old 10-26-09, 07:28 PM   #64 (permalink)
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like this:
Name:  000_0829.jpg
Views: 132
Size:  59.1 KB

except I recently got these:
Name:  tires.jpg
Views: 130
Size:  81.3 KB

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Old 10-26-09, 07:47 PM   #65 (permalink)
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So you live in Rigby area or IF? Looking good. Where is the picture taken (one on the rocks)? Here is mine:


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Old 10-29-09, 06:16 PM   #66 (permalink)
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PM sent, Forrunner. OH and that pic on the rock is taken on the top of Butterfield Canyon, the Kennecott Copper mine overlook. That pit is more than 2 miles deep and I would have pics of it, but it was too foggy.

Oh, and I just wanted you all to know that my bro is doing a knuckle rebuild (ball joints or whatever you want to call them) on his 94' Bronco and it sounds like it's worse than a knuckle re-build on our old 60's. Sucka!

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Old 10-29-09, 07:19 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Thanks for the write-up Gabbo
I've been putting mine of WAY TOO LONG! Going to tear into it Sunday.


How do you like those Goodyears so far?

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Old 10-29-09, 07:57 PM   #68 (permalink)
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I LOVE these Goodyears! I still have yet to drive them on snow, but they are a really good tire so far. Good luck on your re-build man.

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Old 11-02-09, 05:20 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Socket depth

Hi Gabbo,
I just picked up a 54mm socket at Northern tool and was worried it was not deep enough.
It looks like the one in this pic.
Did you have any issues with the socket depth?

Thanks
Dave


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Old 11-02-09, 08:18 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Nope, it worked perfectly fine for me. If yours is the same, it should work!

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Old 11-02-09, 09:55 PM   #71 (permalink)
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hey Gabbo, you ordered from cool cruisers? When ordered did you have to specify the marlin crawler seals or did they ask which ones you wanted? And does this kit come with every bearing, seal, race, etc. you need to rebuild that whole end of the axle or do you have to order seperate kits for the different sections?

I have to do this soon and want to put everything in new at one sitting. I will prob. go ahead and do brakes and rotors as well.

Thanks and btw this is a well done post.

Oh yeah, did you have the fact. service manual and where can I get that?
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Old 11-02-09, 10:27 PM   #72 (permalink)
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jascolt,
Source your kit through Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters (801.518.3937) or Georg at Valley Hybrids (650.576.2023). Both have complete kits and the Marlin seals, are Mud legends, and both are stand-up guys that contribute a LOT to this board.


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Old 11-03-09, 07:44 AM   #73 (permalink)
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I ordered from Cruiser Outfitters. They didn't have the best price I could find but it's in Utah so it shipped to me in a day. I am really pleased with them and I plan on ordering tie rod ends from there soon. (support your local economy, right?) It included everything: all the gaskets, all the seals, and new bearings for everything including new races. He asked if I wanted the Marlin seals and they weren't that much more. My kit had both new stock seals plus the Marlin ones. It even had new shims for the top and bottoms of the knuckle, but I didn't want to mess with that so I just re-used the old ones. I didn't even take the top (steering arm) off the knuckle. Another thing he asked me was if I wanted which bearings. Apparently Toyota used two different kind depending on what was cheaper at the time but he assured me both were exactly the same so he hooked me up with the cheaper "Koyo" ones.
I just have a lame Hayne's manual and I really only used it for torque specs.
The only other thing I used was that exploded hub diagram so i would know what order the seal on the back of the knuckle went on. (metal thingy, rubber thingy, felt thingy, two metal half thingies, bolts)
If you plan on doing your rotors I had to take the whole hub to a shop and have them press out the studs to take off the old one and press the new one in it's place. It was 40 bucks or something, but totally worth it. But I'm sure yours weren't in as bad a shape as mine.
Good luck!

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