I have gotten mixed answers to the question of whether the H55F (gas model) will bolt up to a 3F. Anybody know if this can be done? Seems like it should be doable...
Thanks.
Mike S
Thanks.
Mike S
H55F on 3F engine... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mike S
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Mike
From my research you would need a 3F bellhousing (found on an 85' or newer FJ-60) to mate the 3F-E to an H55F. This is my plan. If I am wrong someone inform me because I would not want to be wrong after I acquire the parts.
Andrew
From my research you would need a 3F bellhousing (found on an 85' or newer FJ-60) to mate the 3F-E to an H55F. This is my plan. If I am wrong someone inform me because I would not want to be wrong after I acquire the parts.
Andrew
Any of the bellhousings will work. I thing there is a later one that has some more or better mounting points but basically they will all work...
The 3F bellhouse cants the tranny over something like 7 degrees to allow for driveline clearance with the cross member. Using a different BH might require some modifications if used on a later 60.
- Thread starter
- #5
Aseif007 said:
So, are you saying that my current '87 2F bellhousing and H55F tranny will bolt up to a 3F engine?
Mike
Dunbar
SILVER Star
My FJ62 is sporting a H55F. I highly recommend the swap. I wasted $750 plus $250 shipping and lots of sweat swapping in a used 440F that died less than 4k miles later. The conversion cost me about $3200 in parts and can be done in a weekend if you have everything ready and a welder to help fab a crossmember. Here is some text that I someday will submit for a trails article along with the pics. The donor parts need to come from a 86 or 87 FJ60 and possibly from a 85 model depending on build date.
Quote:
I put a new H55F into my 1988 FJ62 and love it.
I bought a new Toyota unit and new OEM clutch, shifter, knob, slave and master cylinders, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch fork dust boot, and 5th gear oilier funnel.
I purchased used late model FJ60 parts including drive shafts, bell housing, clutch cover, pedal assembly, hydraulic line, transmission tunnel plate, shifter boot, clutch fork, throw out bearing carrier and flywheel.
You have to fabricate a cross member because the H55F is shorter than the A440F. The late FJ60 cross member would not line up on the frame rails. I used an early FJ60 cross member and welded ½” plate steel to the frame with holed drilled in it for bolting the short cross member.
To get the pedal assembly into position you have to remove the instrument cluster and unbolt and lower the steering column and unbolt and suspend the brake master cylinder. I used a Greenlee punch to make the hole for the master cylinder. There is no guesswork for doing this because the hole positions are stamped onto the firewall for the master cylinder and the 2 bolt holes.
You will also need longer bolts to hold the Tcase to the H55F. You can use the FJ62 Tcase shifter and boot but the linkage will need to be shortened. You will also have to fabricate a plate to cover the hole where the Automatic shifter was attached which was not hard at all, use the rubber gasket from beneath the auto shifter as a template and then as a gasket for the new plate.
Do not use the 2 spacers from behind the old flywheel. You will have to remove the top cover from the H55F in order to stab the whole assembly into the engine. I did not anticipate this and did not have a new gasket on hand but the old one stayed intact. The FSM shows the stabbing procedure with the bell housing already mounted to the engine but this is impossible because it the bolts that mount it are behind the not accessible that way.
No one could tell me what the 5th gear oilier funnel actually does or where it goes but I finally figured that out just before I was going to give up on it. It actually mounts on the front half of the Tcase between the Tcase and the transfer adapter (that houses the 5th gear). There is not a hole so I guess that it gets oil splashed into the top of it which is redirected at the 5th gear shaft.
The final drive is shorter than it was with the A440F overdrive and I wish that I had bought 33’s instead of the BFG AT 31’s I am running as I have the stock 411diffs. 1st gear is a granny but I start out in it often. I shift into 4th gear by 40mph and 5th by 45 unless I am only going a couple of blocks. I have not had a chance to wheel with it yet but there is plenty of low gear. This truck should have been imported with the H55F! Before this conversion I put a rebuilt A440F that I bought from a vortec lister in the truck and it lasted less than 4k miles. Don’t pay $750 plus shipping for a used A440F install a H55F.
Endquote:
If you decide to give it a go I will help out with any info or pics.
Good luck and mash on the clutch.
Dunbar
Quote:
I put a new H55F into my 1988 FJ62 and love it.
I bought a new Toyota unit and new OEM clutch, shifter, knob, slave and master cylinders, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch fork dust boot, and 5th gear oilier funnel.
I purchased used late model FJ60 parts including drive shafts, bell housing, clutch cover, pedal assembly, hydraulic line, transmission tunnel plate, shifter boot, clutch fork, throw out bearing carrier and flywheel.
You have to fabricate a cross member because the H55F is shorter than the A440F. The late FJ60 cross member would not line up on the frame rails. I used an early FJ60 cross member and welded ½” plate steel to the frame with holed drilled in it for bolting the short cross member.
To get the pedal assembly into position you have to remove the instrument cluster and unbolt and lower the steering column and unbolt and suspend the brake master cylinder. I used a Greenlee punch to make the hole for the master cylinder. There is no guesswork for doing this because the hole positions are stamped onto the firewall for the master cylinder and the 2 bolt holes.
You will also need longer bolts to hold the Tcase to the H55F. You can use the FJ62 Tcase shifter and boot but the linkage will need to be shortened. You will also have to fabricate a plate to cover the hole where the Automatic shifter was attached which was not hard at all, use the rubber gasket from beneath the auto shifter as a template and then as a gasket for the new plate.
Do not use the 2 spacers from behind the old flywheel. You will have to remove the top cover from the H55F in order to stab the whole assembly into the engine. I did not anticipate this and did not have a new gasket on hand but the old one stayed intact. The FSM shows the stabbing procedure with the bell housing already mounted to the engine but this is impossible because it the bolts that mount it are behind the not accessible that way.
No one could tell me what the 5th gear oilier funnel actually does or where it goes but I finally figured that out just before I was going to give up on it. It actually mounts on the front half of the Tcase between the Tcase and the transfer adapter (that houses the 5th gear). There is not a hole so I guess that it gets oil splashed into the top of it which is redirected at the 5th gear shaft.
The final drive is shorter than it was with the A440F overdrive and I wish that I had bought 33’s instead of the BFG AT 31’s I am running as I have the stock 411diffs. 1st gear is a granny but I start out in it often. I shift into 4th gear by 40mph and 5th by 45 unless I am only going a couple of blocks. I have not had a chance to wheel with it yet but there is plenty of low gear. This truck should have been imported with the H55F! Before this conversion I put a rebuilt A440F that I bought from a vortec lister in the truck and it lasted less than 4k miles. Don’t pay $750 plus shipping for a used A440F install a H55F.
Endquote:
If you decide to give it a go I will help out with any info or pics.
Good luck and mash on the clutch.
Dunbar
Mike,
Yes, your current bellhousing/tranny SHOULD mount up with a 3F block. When I swapped in my H55 in to my 86 FJ60, I noticed that I have a 3F bellhousing. Apparently starting mid 1985, Toyota started using the 3F bellhousing on the 2F, along with a bunch of other transistional parts.
Yes, your current bellhousing/tranny SHOULD mount up with a 3F block. When I swapped in my H55 in to my 86 FJ60, I noticed that I have a 3F bellhousing. Apparently starting mid 1985, Toyota started using the 3F bellhousing on the 2F, along with a bunch of other transistional parts.
Mike,
also, your 87' FJ-60 has the same length tranny as well so the H55F would just swap in. No driveshaft mods.
Andrew
also, your 87' FJ-60 has the same length tranny as well so the H55F would just swap in. No driveshaft mods.
Andrew
My FJ62 came stock with an H55F mated to a 3F engine, and the block is the same as the 3FE.
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We never got the automatic transmission here, in 1987 Toyota mated the 3F to the H55 in the FJ60 & FJ75.
- Thread starter
- #11
Cool. Sounds positive. I actually have the H55F in my '87 FJ60, and was considering the 3F FE engine as a possible replacement for the 2F when it is needed. I believe that the 3F puts out a little more power and torque, and the EFI would be better at altitude. Might even get a little more mileage from the old red cruiser...
Is this a good idea???
Thanks.
Mike S
Is this a good idea???
Thanks.
Mike S
Mike, I don't have much experience with the 3FE, but I can speak for the comparison between the 3F and the 2F. The 3F seems to have more power, this is a fairly common comment from FJ60 guys that ride in my FJ62. But I think this slight top-end improvement comes at the sacrifice of some torque. I don't have any numbers to back my claim, this is purely based on my own perception.
I think a 3FE would be a nice swap when your 2F croaks, as long as you get a donor FJ62 that you can leisurely pick all the electronics out of.
I think a 3FE would be a nice swap when your 2F croaks, as long as you get a donor FJ62 that you can leisurely pick all the electronics out of.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
My opinons are based on my reads on the net. But always I read that the 2F is a better engine than 3F ( I don't know any about 3FE ) so why not go with inyection ( TBI ) on your 2F engine and getting better stuff of both worlds . ?
Mike S said:
Even though this is an old revived thead and may no longer be a consideration for Mike......
The 3FE is a good engine but for off-road, bad road, towing, etc. I prefer a 2F. The 2F delivers the power at a lower rpm than the 3FE, and in the dirt, mud, rocks, and sand I'd rather have a good, tight 2F. You also won't see any mileage increase with a 3FE. The 2F actually seems to pull stronger than a 3FE. For the effort and cost expended with swapping in a 3FE into an FJ60 you'd be better off just getting a quality rebuild on the 2F.
Dunbar
SILVER Star
More info:
Here is a link to a thread with the part numbers for the longer bolts needed to mate the Tcase to the H55F
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/159182-need-canadian-part-numbers.html
Dunbar
Here is a link to a thread with the part numbers for the longer bolts needed to mate the Tcase to the H55F
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/159182-need-canadian-part-numbers.html
Dunbar
These guys seem to be the source for the H55F and they do have some details on the oiler, shifter, drivelines, etc.
Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60 FJ62 Parts For Sale You can bolt the H55F to the 2F bellhousing, I've done it.
Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60 FJ62 Parts For Sale You can bolt the H55F to the 2F bellhousing, I've done it.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Nice thread, posting so I can find it again later if I ever get to put an H55 behind my 3FE!
this sounds like a very good option for future reference 
My h55 was with a 3F from factory
What are the benefits to this swap if I wanted to do it? Is it really worth it?
