[Western Omelette]

Ok, I got lots of encouragement from my first post so I dove right into my repair list first prioritizing the items then assembling parts and tools for the first project and then diving under the hood. This was my diagnostic report from the mechanic (In order of priority):
1. Complaint: Poor Run Condition Stumble on Acceleration
Road test w/ shop Inspection. Test & Diag. Isolate EGR system for on-off evaluation. Is working properly. Significant vacuum leaks detected at intake/exhaust manifold assembly and air injection rail. Carburetor idle adjustment not correct. Compression check: cylinders #1-3 @ 150psi, cylinder #4 @ 135psi, cylinders #5-6 @ 155 psi.
Recommend intake/exhaust manifold and air injection rail replacement. Recommend valve clearance check and adjustment as necessary. Recommend Carburetor adjustment.

2. Complaint: Overheat after 1 hr highway driving. Occasionally spits coolant out relief hose.
1 gal. low on coolant upon inspection. Top-off coolant. no external leaks detected. Radiator & hoses in poor condition. Could not determine head gasket/cylinder head condition at this time.

3. Complaint: Exhaust fume smell in cab.
Poor run condition causing fume build-up.

4. Complaint: Check various leaks
Power steering pump leaking badly.
Recommend replace.Front Axle knuckle seals leaking. Oil gauge sending unit leaking. Transfer case rear output shaft seal leaking. Transfer case idle shaft seal leaking.


So i decided to tackle the p/s pump, intake/exhaust manifold and injection rail. After reading the response of my first post http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/290518-how-love-you-truck.html I decided to check the manifold gaskets first rather than replace the whole manifold. Gasket crumbled upon removal. I've pulled out the p/s pump and injection manifold which was rusted and crumbling as well. I'm not sure what the valve clearance check is and starting to feel a little in over my head. Now that I have the engine block exposed wondering if there are some basic things I should do before I start to put things back together. Comments/Advice?

Here are some pics of my progress.
Draining p/s, removing carb, removing manifold, engine block exposed, manifold out front & back, engine block.

1.pdf

[Joe_E]

Originally Posted by Western Omelette

Ok, I got lots of encouragement from my first post so I dove right into my repair list first prioritizing the items then assembling parts and tools for the first project and then diving under the hood. This was my diagnostic report from the mechanic (In order of priority):
1. Complaint: Poor Run Condition Stumble on Acceleration
Road test w/ shop Inspection. Test & Diag. Isolate EGR system for on-off evaluation. Is working properly. Significant vacuum leaks detected at intake/exhaust manifold assembly and air injection rail. Carburetor idle adjustment not correct. Compression check: cylinders #1-3 @ 150psi, cylinder #4 @ 135psi, cylinders #5-6 @ 155 psi.
Recommend intake/exhaust manifold and air injection rail replacement. Recommend valve clearance check and adjustment as necessary. Recommend Carburetor adjustment.

2. Complaint: Overheat after 1 hr highway driving. Occasionally spits coolant out relief hose.
1 gal. low on coolant upon inspection. Top-off coolant. no external leaks detected. Radiator & hoses in poor condition. Could not determine head gasket/cylinder head condition at this time.

3. Complaint: Exhaust fume smell in cab.
Poor run condition causing fume build-up.

4. Complaint: Check various leaks
Power steering pump leaking badly.
Recommend replace.Front Axle knuckle seals leaking. Oil gauge sending unit leaking. Transfer case rear output shaft seal leaking. Transfer case idle shaft seal leaking.


So i decided to tackle the p/s pump, intake/exhaust manifold and injection rail. After reading the response of my first post http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/290518-how-love-you-truck.html I decided to check the manifold gaskets first rather than replace the whole manifold. Gasket crumbled upon removal. I've pulled out the p/s pump and injection manifold which was rusted and crumbling as well. I'm not sure what the valve clearance check is and starting to feel a little in over my head. Now that I have the engine block exposed wondering if there are some basic things I should do before I start to put things back together. Comments/Advice?

Here are some pics of my progress.
Draining p/s, removing carb, removing manifold, engine block exposed, manifold out front & back, engine block.

Attachment 337200

You might want to do a compression test to see if you have a leak if you are burning up a lot of coolant and don't know where it's going.

[Western Omelette]

Originally Posted by Western Omelette

. Compression check: cylinders #1-3 @ 150psi, cylinder #4 @ 135psi, cylinders #5-6 @ 155 psi.
Attachment 337200

Shop i took it to did a compression test, not sure what it is telling me.

[Heartworm]

In my limited experience cylinders #4 and 5 are the most vulnerable to vacuum leaks and manifold leaks so at least the location is right. You may have something a simple as a burnt valve. If you have burnt valve, you will need to pull the head, which also involves pulling the intake/exhaust manifolds. There are plenty of posts on that...do the search.

Are you in a smog test state? You might want to consider a desmog, but do it right and do not expect it to be a non-expense procedure. Plan on about $500 including a carb rebuild.

Read a lot of the posts on the subject of manifold gaskets. Most board members favor the Fel-Pro manifold gaskets.

In regard to carburetors, if you send your carb to Jim Chenoweth it will come back ready to bolt up and go. If it still runs rough, it will be something else, not the carb. Downside is the $300 plus shipping and the down time on your rig. Upside is a carb that is right and someone who can give you great advice on getting your cruiser running.

[Western Omelette]

Thanks, I will search for burnt valve, as far as the carb, mechanic I took it to said it didn't look that bad, Was planning on rebuilding eventually but not at the top of the list.
I'm in California so won't desmog anytime soon
Am anxious to get things back together but also don't want to have to strip off the manifold again anytime soon if I can avoid it. Vacuum tube spaghetti!

[Dirtgypsy]

Get yourself some good int/ exh gaskets. Search remflex. there is a guy here selling these (irongiant?) very good quality. The other thing is don't just put everything back together. have the int/ exh machined for $40. Trust me it will be well worth it.

your compression numbers are fine. The low on the 4th cyl is really not that low. it is ok to have a 10% or so difference on cyl's. much more than that then start looking at a possible valve job but not before then.

the stumbling you have in the carb could be the secondary diaphragm as well as a vacuum leak. very common for these to deteriorate and fail. easy fix and cheap.

replace any hose that is cracked or missing. follow the fsm or the vacuum detail on the inner passenger fender.

I have found that when first starting out taking detailed pics before you start will help get things back to where they belong if you get stuck.

good luck. you are doing the right thing by doing some basic work yourself. it will pay dividends many times over.

Clint

[Western Omelette]

Yep been trying to photo each step so I can put back together. What is a secondary diaphragm? Should probably replace most of the vacuum lines. Thanks

[Lugal]

Adjusting the valves isn't too tricky. I just did it for the first time ever following 2mbb's instructions (http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...ml#post4300965). I did it cold, and only a few valves needed slight adjustments, but the truck ran noticeably better afterwards. It certainly can't be any tougher than removing the manifolds.

And as for replacing the vacuum lines: this seems to be everyone's first steps. These are old trucks, so what hasn't been screwed up by previous owners/mechanics is likely deteriorating. It'll run you about $50 to replace all the vacuum hoses w/ new silicone ones, but when you've done that you'll be standing on much firmer footing for chasing down the other gremlins.