Thinking of an FJ62

ThePookieBear · 07-01-09, 01:14 PM

Hey guys, I'm here at great personal risk... I'm thinking of committing heresy and selling my 80 to get a 62. What I would like is to hear some opinions from someone who has had, or has driven, both an FJ80 and an FJ62.

My main questions for now are...

1- Mechanically, which is easier to work on? Seems to me it would be the 62 but... thats why I'm asking.

2- What is the parts availability like for the 62 and are lots of parts interchangeable. Like if I order a part at Autozone that they have for an 80 3FE, will it fit a 62? Also, are 62 parts more expensive than 80 parts, and are 62 parts getting particularly scarce?

3- Drivability.... most likely the 80 will be a better ride from the coils, but is the 62 zippier than the 80 since it is lighter? And does that allow for slightly better mileage with the 62?

4- Will the 62 comfortably, and most importantly easily (for the engine's sake), hold 60 or 65 on the highway? (I live in the flats, so no worries of mountain passes.)

5- Lastly, I would like to find if someone lives near Wichita, KS that owns a reasonably well tuned 62 that I could drive to compare to my 80. If so, I would appreciate it greatly.

Anyway, thanks for any answers guys, Michael.

(And don't tell my 80 brethren I've been over here.)

Edit: Thought of one more question. The semi-floater on my 80 is extremely trouble free and reliable. Is it the same axle as the ones on the 62, or is it at least similar in strength and how trouble free it is?

tonkota · 07-01-09, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThePookieBear

Drivability.... most likely the 80 will be a better ride from the coils, but is the 62 zippier than the 80 since it is lighter? And does that allow for slightly better mileage with the 62?

Is the 62 zippier?

Not by much if any. Most 62's get in the teens for mpg on highway trips.

What is wrong with your 80 to make you wonder about a 62?

Parts aren't difficult to get. The 80 and 62 engines have some differences, but a lot more similarities. The early 80s aren't that much heavier, but they are full-time 4wd, which would make it feel heavier.

Randy88FJ62 · 07-01-09, 02:19 PM

I know you wanted people to respond who have driven an 80 and a 62 but I can answer a few of your questions based on my experience with my 1988 FJ62.

1- Mechanically, which is easier to work on?
Can’t comment on number one because I have no experience to compare to on an 80.

2- What is the parts availability like for the 62 and are lots of parts interchangeable.
Parts are generally not interchangeable on an 80 vs a 62. Example: The ECu’s are different. Scarcity of parts has never been a problem. Mud classifieds coupled with SOR and other suppliers make it easy to find replacement parts.

3- Drivability.... most likely the 80 will be a better ride from the coils, but is the 62 zippier than the 80 since it is lighter?
Mileage is crappy and won’t be different enough from an 80 to quantify. How the vehicles are tuned will make more difference. A 62 is not zippy and does not have a nice ride as the 80’s do with coils.

4- Will the 62 comfortably, and most importantly easily (for the engine's sake), hold 60 or 65 on the highway?
My 62 has never had trouble holding 65 mph on flat roads. I live in L.A. and the only thing I hate are passes and up hills because the 62 does slow down a bit.

Edit: Thought of one more question. The semi-floater on my 80 is extremely trouble free and reliable. Is it the same axle as the ones on the 62, or is it at least similar in strength and how trouble free it is?
The rear 62 axle is a semi-floater (U.S. version) and works flawlessly for most people’s needs. If you plan on carrying heavy loads a lot then a full floater rear axle would be a good upgrade. I have torn down both front and rear axles on my 62 and they are easy to work on and simple to do field repairs on once you’ve had practice.

My question in return after answering your questions is; Why would you want to switch? An 80 is a great vehicle and can be modded in the same ways as a 60. Selling your 80 and getting a 62 will cost you more money and time in the long run. Fit, form, and function over looks. You have a comparable vehicle to start with. Why change now? Maybe you can’t handle all of NLXTACY’s tech threads on how to make expensive jumper cables? Is that why you’re coming to the dark side? You want real tech and ODBI instead of ODBII and fancy scan gauges? 62’s are the hybrid between 60’s and 80’s. We get fuel injection and an auto trany but still get the great rugged looks of a 60. Doesn’t get much better than that.

Texx · 07-01-09, 03:21 PM

My (wife's) 62 easily holds enough speed to make me almost literally crap my pants when a state trooper entered an onramp near Corpus Christi. 65 is absolutely nothing. This is certainly flat land, and 90 plus is no problem for my wife's unmodified FJ62. All the other stuff comes down to personal opinion really, if you're already in an 80, then the auto isn't an issue, it's not fast, won't get great mileage, (although 17 is doable), but has classic looks, much more room in the back, and you probably won't see yourself coming around every corner. Parts are easily available, I've had multiple 62's and have never had any kind of axle problem whatever. Maintenance is simple, outside of the auto trans. Don't expect any performance gain. Don't expect an overly cushy ride. Do expect a truck that wears like iron, is simple to maintain, and has a healthy appetite for gas and brakes.

mmw68 · 07-01-09, 03:30 PM

I say "GO FOR IT"

I had a FJ62 as a daily driver for years, and sold it about three years ago for a FZJ80. After 3 years of driving the FZJ80, I've traded it strait up for a FJ62 this week. To me the FJ62 just puts a smile on my face.. It's just personal taste. It does have more of a old school "cool Factor" and I just find it fun to drive.

-Mark

lucidlyseen · 07-01-09, 03:34 PM

man, mmw68 that is a clean looking 62!

cullmancruiser · 07-01-09, 05:24 PM

Nice rig, did the tint help your AC much? I've been thinking about tinting the windows in my 62 to help the AC through these Alabama summers. I've been quoted $200, is it worth it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by mmw68

I say "GO FOR IT"

I had a FJ62 as a daily driver for years, and sold it about three years ago for a FZJ80. After 3 years of driving the FZJ80, I've traded it strait up for a FJ62 this week. To me the FJ62 just puts a smile on my face.. It's just personal taste. It does have more of a old school "cool Factor" and I just find it fun to drive.

-Mark

2mbb · 07-01-09, 09:31 PM

I do not now nor have ever owned either an FJ62 or an FJ80. Therefore, I feel I am qualified to respond...

Don't these two vehicles essentially have the same engine?

The FJ80 has coil springs which gives a more comfortable ride. Doesn't the FJ80 have a full floating rear axle?

Neither the FJ80 nor the FJ62 have round headlights.

Therefore the swap to the FJ62 doesn't make sense to me. My recommendation would be to "upgrade" to an FJ60. It would be the truly unique driving experience compare to the FJ80. Also, we all know the FJ60/2F is easier to work on than FJ80/FJ62. And the final argument is that the FJ60 comes stock with the ultra-cool round headlights.

ThePookieBear · 07-01-09, 09:42 PM

Nice!! Thanks for all the answers guys.

Main reason for possibly switching... (drumroll...) I like the looks.

Other than that the only main difference is leafs and stuff. And it still has A/C... Which is nice. I'm still in school, and paid off the 80 and don't have enough money to do a diesel swap so I figured I'd maybe switch it up a bit till I can do that someday. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love my 80, but I like the old school looks of the 60. Thanks guys.

Any other pro/cons that you can think of? Fire away.

Randy88FJ62 · 07-01-09, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lucidlyseen

man, mmw68 that is a clean looking 62!

Your cruiser is beautiful...

FourEyedWilly · 07-02-09, 09:18 AM

This may or may not help. I owned an 87 4Runner and my 90 LandCruiser. While the 87 did have IFS, the ride was not all too much different than my 62. Once I put on the OME lift, the ride became stiff, but not rough. Put it this way, my wife likes to go for rides in it. She's a cream puff at times.

As for speed, I can hold about 70-75 on the freeway without feeling like I am straining anything. Of course, I have 33s so that probably has a little to do with it. By no means is my 62 fast. Put it this way, it's bright red and cops don't even pay attention.

I know the 80 is a 'better' rig, but like others have said, I love driving something that nobody else has. I get comments EVERY time I go out.

ThePookieBear · 07-02-09, 09:26 AM

Sweet. So far the pictures posted up have been very nice looking!

mmw68- What lift do you have on yours?

FourEyedWilly- Same question to you.

And, does anyone live near Wichita? I'm really wanting to drive one and haven't seen any in the classifieds. Thanks guys.

vasellers · 07-02-09, 10:55 AM

The 62 has the plug in the head that pops out and pukes out all the oil, the FZJ80 has the PHH that pukes out all the coolant, what's not to like?

Randy88FJ62 · 07-02-09, 11:27 AM

The 62 oil galley plug can easily be remedied...

FourEyedWilly · 07-02-09, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

The 62 oil galley plug can easily be remedied...

I'm running an OME Medium/Medium lift. It was supposed to be about 2 1/2 inches but I got just under 4 out of it. (suspension was shot). Also, running 33 10.5R 15 BFG A/T. It rides much better today than it did when I first put it on. I've put maybe 500 miles on it since then. I take my 4mo old in it all the time. I've always driven trucks and this one is no different. I'd take it for a road trip any day! Wondering if you could get someone with a 62 to trade with you? I hope to see some pics of your 'new' ride!! (when it happens)

KayakPanic · 07-02-09, 02:45 PM

i'm with 2mbb, never driven a 62 or 80.

but i also say, why not got for the old school looks of an FJ60 (round headlights), and a 4 speed? It has to be better for wheeling in my opinion, but i may be biased in never owning an automatic (i get bored behind the wheel).

The 2F had a carb that can be regularly tuned and maintained, compared to electronic fuel infection...

70 mph is no problem with the four speed, if fact the power maintained at higher RPM is probably better than a 5 speed for this.

In my opinion, FJ60 parts are probably easier to source than FJ62...

FourEyedWilly · 07-02-09, 02:54 PM

Isn't the body and most interior the same between a 60 and 62? I know the dash is different and the headlight thing, but other than those? I understand the carb and tranny of course. That was the reason I didn't go with the 60. Just asking because of your 'parts' comment. Cheers!

T-bones 60 · 07-02-09, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KayakPanic

70 mph is no problem with the four speed, if fact the power maintained at higher RPM is probably better than a 5 speed for this.

Remember the old tractor motors don't care much for sustained high RPM's. My beast has no problem holding 70 in 5th. (on level ground)

KayakPanic · 07-02-09, 04:46 PM

t-bones-

as far as the power issue i was refering to: i normally will not drive 70, but 65...plus i am going over mountain passes, etc, so i usually can pull really big hills in 4th gear...at 45mph.

In my opinion, the 2800 to 3000 rpm that i get at 70 is not considered "high rpm" for a Toyota, from my experience. Driving maybe 75-85mph, or anywhere around 3500 rpm or more I would consider high rpm.

used to have a '77 FJ40 and would cruise it at 58mph...however, the original Toyota advertisemant (which you can occasionally find on Ebay) said that the FJ40 would easily cruise 85mph all day long! Plus, not having a tachometer, what is there to worry about? I also could pull most hills in 4th gear at 35-40mph in the FJ40.

when i had my '84 hilux, i was always downshifting from 5th, to 4th, to 3rd to pull hills at high rpm to maintain 35-40 mph...

4 eyed willy-

I think 60 parts are easier to source because i see WAAYY more of them than the 62. As in, i think that maybe there were either more 60's made, or more imported here than 62's, or more sold, but all in all I see at least 4 FJ60, for every FJ62 that I see on the roads of the intermountain West.

just going on my opinion on this...

other parts that are different are most of the electronics. the 62's have a way more complicated electronic system: more relays for different things including the power windows, locks and mirrors, which I have yet to see in a 60. Also, just found out that the 62's have headrests for the back seat, and the 60's do not (or my '84 doesn't).

FourEyedWilly · 07-02-09, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KayakPanic

t-bones-

as far as the power issue i was refering to: i normally will not drive 70, but 65...plus i am going over mountain passes, etc, so i usually can pull really big hills in 4th gear...at 45mph.

In my opinion, the 2800 to 3000 rpm that i get at 70 is not considered "high rpm" for a Toyota, from my experience. Driving maybe 75-85mph, or anywhere around 3500 rpm or more I would consider high rpm.

used to have a '77 FJ40 and would cruise it at 58mph...however, the original Toyota advertisemant (which you can occasionally find on Ebay) said that the FJ40 would easily cruise 85mph all day long! Plus, not having a tachometer, what is there to worry about? I also could pull most hills in 4th gear at 35-40mph in the FJ40.

when i had my '84 hilux, i was always downshifting from 5th, to 4th, to 3rd to pull hills at high rpm to maintain 35-40 mph...

4 eyed willy-

I think 60 parts are easier to source because i see WAAYY more of them than the 62. As in, i think that maybe there were either more 60's made, or more imported here than 62's, or more sold, but all in all I see at least 4 FJ60, for every FJ62 that I see on the roads of the intermountain West.

just going on my opinion on this...

other parts that are different are most of the electronics. the 62's have a way more complicated electronic system: more relays for different things including the power windows, locks and mirrors, which I have yet to see in a 60. Also, just found out that the 62's have headrests for the back seat, and the 60's do not (or my '84 doesn't).

Cool, thanks Kayak! I have not been on a parts hunt...yet.

(I do like the look of the round eyes for sure)

To be honest though, I have a rare bird in my 62, manual windows, mirrors, and door locks. I F'ing love it! I had many Toys with the 22RE so I figured the 3FE might be just as 'easy' for me to work on. No experience with carbs...

KayakPanic · 07-02-09, 05:19 PM

ahh, yep. mine were 20R and 22R so both carbed. Now on my second 2F...

the first EFI I owned was a '94 subaru loyale that almost got to 250,000...and would have if I hadn't ruined it by trying to start it in the 10 days of -35 F we had in Big Sky last winter!

just so everyone knows, if it's too cold to start an EFI, and you keep cranking it, the fuel leaks through the engine into the oil because there is nowhere else for it to go. then, when, and if, you finally get it started again, it will promptly throw a rod...

mmw68 · 07-02-09, 05:30 PM

Thanks for the compliments, this truck is super clean, and has spent it's entire life in Austin Texas. Iam really enjoying it!

Iam really not sure what height lift this is.

Here is what I do know:
It's a OME Dakar lift 2-3 inches. Call Kirt he can help you out on this:
Cruiser Outfitters

Iam going to guess I have the Light/Medium Duty Kit 2"- 3" Lift, because it rides so well and is not as stiff as my last FJ62 that hd the OME heavy duty lift.

This truck has 32x11.50 BFG tires.

Mace · 07-02-09, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KayakPanic

just so everyone knows, if it's too cold to start an EFI, and you keep cranking it, the fuel leaks through the engine into the oil because there is nowhere else for it to go. then, when, and if, you finally get it started again, it will promptly throw a rod...

How is this different than a carb???

You are talking about a serious amount of gasoline there...

KayakPanic · 07-02-09, 06:05 PM

the main difference is with a carb, the fuel can evaporate into the atmosphere, up from out of the carb. EFI is completely sealed, so the fuel is forced through the engine and into the crankcase.

also, carbed vehicles do not tend to have such a problem with cold starts, in my experience.

Mace · 07-02-09, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KayakPanic

the main difference is with a carb, the fuel can evaporate into the atmosphere, up from out of the carb. EFI is completely sealed, so the fuel is forced through the engine and into the crankcase.

also, carbed vehicles do not tend to have such a problem with cold starts, in my experience.

Once the fuel is past the butterflies, it is sort of sealed, carb or FI. You have really flooded a FI truck??? One that was running well?

In my experience, FI always starts easier than a carb when it is cold.

KayakPanic · 07-02-09, 06:37 PM

the only EFI vehicles I have owned are the deceased '94 subaru, and my current '95 subaru. never owned an EFI truck, though the same thing happened to a friend at big sky 2 winters ago with an '88 4runner with 22RE, luckily for him he got it to a mechanic soon enough to change the oil/drain the fuel out, and it did not ruin his engine.

If you are flooding a carbed vehicle, that fuel sits in the cups underneath the jets and butterflies and is not forced with any pressure into the engine (I think). and if you keep flooding it, the more you press the accellerator, the more fuel will pool up in the cups. if you give up, the fuel will evaporate to the atmosphere.

in EFI the fuel is forced into the cylinders. you try to start, and try, and when you give up, the fuel cannot evaporate anywhere because it is a sealed system.

my experience is that a finely tuned carbed truck has no trouble starting in the cold, whereas, I had trouble starting that beefy subaru with its 1.8 litre engine anywhere under -10 F.

Mace · 07-02-09, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KayakPanic

the only EFI vehicles I have owned are the deceased '94 subaru, and my current '95 subaru. never owned an EFI truck, though the same thing happened to a friend at big sky 2 winters ago with an '88 4runner with 22RE, luckily for him he got it to a mechanic soon enough to change the oil/drain the fuel out, and it did not ruin his engine.

So you have burnt up a motor by filling the oil with gasoline? Or this is just something you heard?

Quote:

Originally Posted by KayakPanic

If you are flooding a carbed vehicle, that fuel sits in the cups underneath the jets and butterflies and is not forced with any pressure into the engine (I think). and if you keep flooding it, the more you press the accellerator, the more fuel will pool up in the cups. if you give up, the fuel will evaporate to the atmosphere.

For the most part, the gasoline motors we deal with are not direct injection into the cylinders. The fuel is drawn into the motor by the movement of the pistons. Flooding the motor is "filling" the combustion chamber enough to prevent ignition. Way more common on a carbed truck than a FI truck..

BTW, "cups"????

Quote:

Originally Posted by KayakPanic

in EFI the fuel is forced into the cylinders. you try to start, and try, and when you give up, the fuel cannot evaporate anywhere because it is a sealed system.

On nondirect injection motors, the EFI unit is just as sealed as a carb.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KayakPanic

my experience is that a finely tuned carbed truck has no trouble starting in the cold, whereas, I had trouble starting that beefy subaru with its 1.8 litre engine anywhere under -10 F.

Your dead subaru had a bunch of problems didn't it..

There is no reason a carbed motor should be easier to start when its cold outside compared to a FI motor.

KayakPanic · 07-02-09, 07:07 PM

easy there mace...

the engine threw a rod (according to a mechanic) because the gas ate away at all of the bearings/seals etc. I have not tried to restart the vehicle however, so I am taking him at his word (pretty sure he charged me to blow the motor).

cups= as explained in last thread: "fuel sits in the cups underneath the jets"
the cups, where the fuel sits when you look down into the carb from above, that the jets spray into! and the fuel is not sealed anywhere in a carbed vehicle, it evaporates from the cups.

the dead subaru got 34 miles per gallon with a fresh oil change. other than needing a clutch, it probably ran better than most cars half its age. and i was able to pay off the entire car in 4 months by simply not driving my fj40, in the gas money saved, when gas was $4.20/gallon during the last republican administration!

one reason that my carbed trucks have ALWAYS started easier in the cold than EFI, if because I can clean and adjust the carb, but not the EFI (except with fuel additives).

motoloco · 07-02-09, 08:22 PM

If you have to crank that much, a little fuel in your oil is the least of your issues:meh

BACK to the subject: The 80 series with a 3fe will be a little slower and get a little less MPG than a comprable tuned 62, the 80 wont rust and WILL ride much nicer BUT the coolness factor is just not the same. Tough to beat 4w discs, coils, and no rust issues (if taken care of).

cruiser88 · 07-02-09, 09:09 PM

lol........you cranked that much the battery would be dead.

Dont worry about the Toyota EFI thread starter