No rain today so I tackled the headlight upgrade...
I bought my kit/parts from
Cruiser Outfitters online but you have to give them a call to place an order. Kurt answered phone and told him what I wanted and the order was placed. Simple as that... We talked a little about the ease of installation as it seems nothing is as easy as stated...but he assured me it is in fact PLUG AND PLAY from beginning to end. The hardest part is finding a spot for the relays and fuse.
So I get my parts....
1. IPF 920H headlamps.... $40.50 each. Polycarbonate lenses...cut reflectors to maximize coverage and reflection.
2.IPF White Max H-4 bulbs, IPFC41-B (Blue). $69 pair. These are 55/60 but perform as 110/130 optical equivalents. These are the ones that glow in blue or green when you shut down. Me Likey Blue!!!
3. Headlight Loom Kit, IPFM002 $105.50 each. This is a complete plug and play loom as will be explained. Everything is included except your phillips head screwdriver.
So I forgot to take pics of my dismal lights....one was a Japanese sealed beam and other was a Sylvania sealed beam. Both had rust marks or burned spots inside...both were dim at best. Took them out. Unscrewed four screws around bezel and corner lights....twisted up and over and let hang on each corner of rig.
Then I removed the headlight retainer ring from both lights. Just loosen the three screws as the ring is a twist lock setup...loosen and twist. Mine was a bit tight as it was full of grit and oxidation but it turned without too much effort. Sealed beam comes forward from weight with it. Squeeze clips on both sides of plug...unplug...set ring and old lamps aside one at a time.
Then I laid out my new loom. First I figured out where I wanted relays...at first I tried the nice flat spot on side of inner fender toward top. Until that is I realized the hood spring lowers into that area...no wonder that prime area was unused.
So I followed suite and mounted on top of inner wheel well next to a couple other factory installed items. Self tapping screws are provided and with a handy drill/driver they went into metal and tightened up nicely. Then came the fuze mount and that was done.
The next part was running the protected harness alongside the battery down through the headlight mount to allow the first two plugs to hang in the openening. Then I continued and ran the loom along the front in between radiator and grill of vehicle. I was going to run down below but opted to keep it away from sharp objects, road hazards, the fan and heat. Then the other end with a single plug went through the headlight housing mount and dangled freely.
Then I assembled the headlamps...remove IPF lights from box...remove rear protective boot, unclip and pop out blank. Then carefully remove one H-4 bulb making sure not to get your fingers on the bulb itself...touch with soft cloth or only grab the metal tabs as oil on fingers can cause hot spots and premature death of bulb.
Align bulb taps with single at top of headlamp, clip into place, cover with protective rubber boot with TOP toward upper portion of headlamp as labeled....make sure the rubber boot is down securely...it will pop into place when on properly.
Then do the other and carry them carefully to front of rig. Take one to drivers side and plug single connector from NEW WIRING LOOM into the rear of the new headlamp assembly. I enclosed the old plug which is no longer used in an old rubber glove and tied off to keep majority of water and gunk out of connections. Put all wires back inside mounting housing and replace headlamp ring and push firmly until seated completely and with TOP positioned properly. Twist ring until it stops and while holding with one hand tighten three retaining screws snug. Check and if not loose proceed to passenger side.
On the passenger side it is slightly different. The old plug you will plug into a MALE plug provided on wiring loom. This allows your oem LIGHT STALK in cab to work properly and also illuminate HIGH beam bulb appropriately and tells the harness when to turn on the lamps....just like factory. Then the other female plug goes onto back of headlamp and bulb just like drivers side. Install retaining ring, check security and done.
The next step is to connect the POSITIVE + and NEGATIVE - leads from the new wiring loom to your battery terminal clamps. Once completed and tight then install your three (3) relays into the blocks you mounted earlier on the fender wheel well. CAUTION: There are two different sizes... two 15xx and one 25xx. The instructions are clear...put the 25xx series relay into the R1 slot which is marked with a yellow dot/circle. The two 15xx series relays are for high and low beams and fill the R2 and R3 slots. Press in firmly until snug.
Then I started truck, turned on lamps and ensured the lights were operating normally...flipped to HIGH BEAM and noticed the difference. Parked rig about 15 feet from garage door...measured from driveway surface to center of headlamp and noted distance. Then went to garage door and noted from floor to center of beam. I wanted the beam reflection to be 2 inches lower than the center of the headlamps for my starting point. Then I measured between the headlamps to center of lense and did the same on garage door. I made the right lamp slightly wider than their position on truck. I wanted the low beam to hit just below the trunk lid or window of most cars when I am behind them so as not to illuminate their interior and give them a retina burn at night. I will test it tonight and this weekend and adjust as necassary. Check HIGH beam again and it really is a higher pattern and brightness as you will see.
Took my zip ties that are supplied with the kit, secured the loom to the headlamp housing frame on each side....then attached center to center grill bracked in between radiator and grill. Then halfway down each side did a snug fitting as well to grill...the black ties are not visible running around the darker inner portions of grill. Then with last one pulled all the wires from relays and power leads together in a loose coil and secured to wheel well also.
Put chrome bezel trim back in place...checked for EXTRA SCREWS anywhere as is common with my repairs....and then pulled her down driveway to end....walking all the way back to garage I lowered myself until I appeared centered in LOW beam pattern and could tell the brightness had peaked....and took pic with cell phone. This is at 7pm with considerable light still out as it does not get dark until nearly 9pm.
LOW BEAMS
Then I put them on HIGH beam and did the same thing from same spot....notice how much brighter the HIGH beams are to the already more than double brightness just in LOW beams.
HIGH BEAMS
So far I am very pleased...the kit was as easy as promised with all parts included except for a phillips head driver and an electric drill/driver to insert the self tapping screws.
Practical experience the next few weeks and months after returning from the FJ SUMMIT in Ouray CO will tell the real test but in about an hour I am going for drive around block to test them out for a seat of the pants check. LET THERE BE LIGHT!!!!!!
I highly recommend Cruiser Outfitters and Kurt was very straight forward and did what he said, when he said...and cant ask for more than that.
I will take some pics with my real camera instead of phone this weekend.... Almost forgot...when I shut off my headlights they have a nice cool BLUE glow around the bulb.
I am pimping her out now! LOL
The wife on the other hand may be a problem.
Joe_E
Moonshine
Linear Mode
