[jjlee]

Hi everyone. Just wanted to say hi and profess my new found LC addiction.

Have been through this forum for the last week or so and may I say how exciting it is to know that this place is here.

I'm looking to purchase my first LC: a 1987 HJ60 with a 2H diesel. It's tubo'd with OME suspension (medium setup) and new bushings. Has about 266000 Kms, 4.56 gearing 24v-12v converter, AC.
Haven't seen the vehicle yet, and I'm waiting for more info on it.

i wanted to know if anyone had any suggestions as to what I should look out for.
I know rust may be an issue with this particular vehicle, so should I run away if there's some frame rust? If not what would be a reasonable price to pay for the setup as is? (Can $$)
Keep in mind that I am in Vancouver and to say it's gets wet up here would be an understatement.

Thanks ahead of time for any responses and I hope to be a life long member from here on in.

Cheers,
James.

[sl33py]

welcome!

rust in the frame - especially midway back. look for it in the window sills, gutters and front A pillars.

over the rear wheel wells is common too - make sure to check for bondo or similar hiding cancer.

pricing really is all over the map, but a lot less than it was a couple years ago. Can't be much help there i'm afraid. We pick up 2F 60's anywhere from $500 to $7-8k depending on condition.

you could always post up pics and someone will give you a ballpark $ if you are trying to bring the seller down a bit.

I'm just south of you a ways - i know what you mean by wet (except for today which is gorgeous outside)!

GL!

rob

[jjlee]

Hey Rob,

Thanks for the tips. I've always stayed away form rust when buying a used vehicle in the past, but with this new obsession, I'm finding it hard to find much in terms of diesels that are in good condition... sooo I'm likely to make a decision I may regret. Up here in Canada, I've seen some f60's and H60's go for as high as 16,000. CRAZY! I know it's hard to let these go and how much people love them, but c'mon, 16 for a 25 year old vehicle? really?

I will definitely post some pics as soon as I get some.

We better enjoy the sun while we can, those dooms day clouds aren't far away.

[87 HJ60]

I own the same vehicle that you're considering, a 1987 HJ60. First off I have to say that with the turbo it'll drive so much better than without it. Is it an automatic or a 5 speed and what size tires are on it? The reason I ask is if you have the stock size tires (235x75x15) you may be revving a bit high at highway speeds with 4.56 gears. Back when I first bought mine with the stock size wheels and tires, 3.70 gears and no turbo I was getting 23-26 mpg (2200 rpm @ 100 km/h). Mine has the 5 speed.
Some things to look out for is the obvious rust on the frame and body. How picky do you want to be? Are you expecting the vehicle to be perfect?
The important thing to check out is to make sure all the electrics work. Being a Canadian HJ60 you have to remember that the vehicle has a 24 volt electrical system. You can't just go into Cdn Tire and buy electrical parts. You'll have to go to Toyota to buy parts (expensive) and some of the electrical parts are no longer manufactured. For parts you can browse the classified here or even try eBay. But for some little things you'll have to search high and low to find replacements. Some things to look out for are the intermittant wiper relay, 4 wheel drive solenoid, wiper motor for both front and rear, the dash clock is a very hard part to find, make sure the rear defrost work. There's a rear heater located under the centre console. A lot of times the metal pipes going to the little heater core corrodes. Best is to replace those pipes with rubber heater hoses. One overlooked area to check is to make sure the spare tire winch isn't siezed from being corroded.
As for price I've seen them range from $4,500 to $18,000 depending on condition.
Good luck on your purchase, and if you can post some pics.
Here's a couple of pictures of mine.....

Originally Posted by jjlee

Hi everyone. Just wanted to say hi and profess my new found LC addiction.

Have been through this forum for the last week or so and may I say how exciting it is to know that this place is here.

I'm looking to purchase my first LC: a 1987 HJ60 with a 2H diesel. It's tubo'd with OME suspension (medium setup) and new bushings. Has about 266000 Kms, 4.56 gearing 24v-12v converter, AC.
Haven't seen the vehicle yet, and I'm waiting for more info on it.

i wanted to know if anyone had any suggestions as to what I should look out for.
I know rust may be an issue with this particular vehicle, so should I run away if there's some frame rust? If not what would be a reasonable price to pay for the setup as is? (Can $$)
Keep in mind that I am in Vancouver and to say it's gets wet up here would be an understatement.

Thanks ahead of time for any responses and I hope to be a life long member from here on in.

Cheers,
James.

[jjlee]

250+ Club: one word...WOW. Very very nice. Don't see many that clean, especially under the hood.

1.I'm pretty sure it's a 5 speed.
2. I'm also told that the rubber is 32" x 11" BFG's (I know what you mean about the high rev's, I was concerned about this.)
3. I'm not too picky about the rust at this point, just want it to last for a few years. If I do make this purchase, or an other for that matter, I'd like to do a restore at some point, funds and time permitting of course.
4. I've been told that the LC has a 24V -> 12V converter. (not sure what this means as I've never dealt with a 24V system.)

I will definitely be keeping your HJ60 as reference for my future work. Again, nice work.

J.

[87 HJ60]

The 24->12 volt converter is a unit installed somewhere in the vehicle that looks like a car stereo amp and it's purpose is to convert the vehicle's 24 volt electrical to 12 volts. By doing this you can add "regular" 12 volt accessories such as stereos, 12 volt power points (cig lighter), and for lights. You'll still have all the 24 volt electrical items of the truck but with the option to add 12 volt accessories.
A real good investment when you get the vehicle is to get it oil sprayed every year. I get mine done at Krown. Not sure if they're out there in B.C. or not but whatever you do it should be on your must do list.

Originally Posted by jjlee

Hi everyone. Just wanted to say hi and profess my new found LC addiction.

Have been through this forum for the last week or so and may I say how exciting it is to know that this place is here.

I'm looking to purchase my first LC: a 1987 HJ60 with a 2H diesel. It's tubo'd with OME suspension (medium setup) and new bushings. Has about 266000 Kms, 4.56 gearing 24v-12v converter, AC.
Haven't seen the vehicle yet, and I'm waiting for more info on it.

i wanted to know if anyone had any suggestions as to what I should look out for.
I know rust may be an issue with this particular vehicle, so should I run away if there's some frame rust? If not what would be a reasonable price to pay for the setup as is? (Can $$)
Keep in mind that I am in Vancouver and to say it's gets wet up here would be an understatement.

Thanks ahead of time for any responses and I hope to be a life long member from here on in.

Cheers,
James.

Originally Posted by jjlee

250+ Club: one word...WOW. Very very nice. Don't see many that clean, especially under the hood.

1.I'm pretty sure it's a 5 speed.
2. I'm also told that the rubber is 32" x 11" BFG's (I know what you mean about the high rev's, I was concerned about this.)
3. I'm not too picky about the rust at this point, just want it to last for a few years. If I do make this purchase, or an other for that matter, I'd like to do a restore at some point, funds and time permitting of course.
4. I've been told that the LC has a 24V -> 12V converter. (not sure what this means as I've never dealt with a 24V system.)

I will definitely be keeping your HJ60 as reference for my future work. Again, nice work.

J.

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by jjlee

250+ Club: one word...WOW. Very very nice. Don't see many that clean, especially under the hood.

1.I'm pretty sure it's a 5 speed.
2. I'm also told that the rubber is 32" x 11" BFG's (I know what you mean about the high rev's, I was concerned about this.)
3. I'm not too picky about the rust at this point, just want it to last for a few years. If I do make this purchase, or an other for that matter, I'd like to do a restore at some point, funds and time permitting of course.
4. I've been told that the LC has a 24V -> 12V converter. (not sure what this means as I've never dealt with a 24V system.)

I will definitely be keeping your HJ60 as reference for my future work. Again, nice work.

J.

I think youll find the diff ratio a little low for every day use
As for the rust,its what makes them worth doing a restore or not.
IMO ,you are betting off starting with a good body and a dead motor than the other way round.

The 24v models have a limited choice of aftermarket accessories,so you use a 12v inverter to run 12V CD/radio ,lights etc.
You cant plug a 12V accessoriy into one of the batteries without causing problems

[jjlee]

Originally Posted by roscoFJ73

I think youll find the diff ratio a little low for every day use
As for the rust,its what makes them worth doing a restore or not.
IMO ,you are betting off starting with a good body and a dead motor than the other way round.

The 24v models have a limited choice of aftermarket accessories,so you use a 12v inverter to run 12V CD/radio ,lights etc.
You cant plug a 12V accessoriy into one of the batteries without causing problems

Thanks for the info. I think you may be right with the whole good body bad motor = easier restore thing, but up here in the wet, wet, wet, wet ,wet ,wet ,wet BC coast, it's pretty rare that you see any vehicle more than 20 years old without some rust "issues". As I mentioned before, I have still not physically seen the LC up close and personal. I have all fingers and toes crossed that I won't be able to poke any holes through with a pen, but until the guy gets back form out of town, I'm left hoping and praying.

I've also now come across a 1983 HJ60 with a 3B motor in relatively good condition (very minimal rust on body and frame). The only thing is I live up on the mountain and am concerned that there won't be enough power for the climb. Also, I've got my heart set on a 2H or 12HT so unless someone convinces me otherwise, the search will continue.

Any ideas as to how the 3B with a turbocharger will handle climbs and heavy loads? How is Highway driving with a 3B?

Again, thanks for the input and man this forum rocks!!!!

[87 HJ60]

That 1983 "HJ60" is most likely a BJ60. HJ60 came with the six cylinder diesel and the BJ60 had the 4 cylinder diesel. There's no real difference between the BJ60 and HJ60 in terms of how the vehicle drives. Both are super slow, unless they're turbo'd.
My suggestion is to compare both vehicles and if the BJ60 is in better overall condition then go for that one, although you have to consider price. Or if you really have your heart set on the HJ60 then either wait for another one to come up or try searching for one in another province. How much is in your budget to spend ?
If you buy a decent BJ60 you can always add a turbo. If you're mechanically inclined you can build up a kit yourself or you can buy kits with everything you need to bolt it right up with no problems. These kits run about $2000-2500....
Keep us up to date as to what you do.

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by jjlee

The only thing is I live up on the mountain and am concerned that there won't be enough power for the climb. Also, I've got my heart set on a 2H or 12HT so unless someone convinces me otherwise, the search will continue.

!!!!

The 12HT models (HJ61)are a world apart from the HJ60 and BJ60. If you can afford a HJ61 or are prepared to save for one,that is the way I would go.
Being a Japanse import,it is likely to be no/low rust with low klms ,lots of options and as I said,the 12HT engine is a world apart.

[jjlee]

Originally Posted by 87 HJ60

That 1983 "HJ60" is most likely a BJ60. HJ60 came with the six cylinder diesel and the BJ60 had the 4 cylinder diesel. There's no real difference between the BJ60 and HJ60 in terms of how the vehicle drives. Both are super slow, unless they're turbo'd.
My suggestion is to compare both vehicles and if the BJ60 is in better overall condition then go for that one, although you have to consider price. Or if you really have your heart set on the HJ60 then either wait for another one to come up or try searching for one in another province. How much is in your budget to spend ?
If you buy a decent BJ60 you can always add a turbo. If you're mechanically inclined you can build up a kit yourself or you can buy kits with everything you need to bolt it right up with no problems. These kits run about $2000-2500....
Keep us up to date as to what you do.

Thanks for the suggestion. As I mentioned before, the HJ60 with the 2H is already turbo'd. The one with the 3B isn't. So what I'm wondering is how the 3B with a turbo added will compare to the 2H with turbo.

So essentially, it's between:
- a BJ60 with a better overall condition frame but the less powerful (and IMO) less desirable 3B motor
or...
- an HJ60 with a somewhat rusty frame and body with more power of the 2H with turbo.

In terms of price, the 3B guy is asking 8k where as the 2H guy 6k.

Oh the dilemma...

[87 HJ60]

Don't look down on the 3B as it's not that much less in power compared to the 2H.
You'll have to look beyond the turbo'd 2H of the HJ60 when comparing it to the 'better condition' BJ60. What condition is the 3B motor in? How many km's? How is the rest of the drivetrain mechanically?
In my opinion I agree with roscoFJ73 that you should go with the vehicle with the better chasis and body. By the way, how is the interior of either vehicles? Another thing to consider is the overall condition of the interior especially if you plan on restoring it sometime down the road as you mentioned. Remember a lot of the parts for either truck is hard to find.
Oh, and by the way, the BJ60 has a 12 volt electrical system compared to a 24 volt system for the HJ60.

[roscoFJ73]

What sort of prices are they asking for the factory turbos in Canada?

[87 HJ60]

I don't have any idea personally in regards to how much Toyota wants for turbos here in Canada.
I got my turbo kit directly from Turbo Glide in Australia. They sell kits for both the 2H and 3B engines.

[Dieseler]

The 3B will clock more KMs than the 2H....3Bs will go 400,000+ were the 2H get tired at 3-350k

[Freewheel]

Hi Dieseler- From my reading on Mud, it seems that a well maintained 2H goes just as far as a 3B (and theres that Aussie Daily driver who drove a 2H to a million kilometers)- why do you say otherwise? Not being combative, just asking?

JJLee - that price is pretty good - especially with those extras (turbo and OME lift) - unfortunately that probably means you are going to be able to stick your fingers through the frame - I would roughly say that a non rusty, turboed, OME'd Canadian Spec 2H truck should go for twice the price that you've found.

As for Krown treatment - Duncan Autobody in Squamish does it, and it's the best thing you can do for your truck if you are going to drive it in the winter. I have one tiny rust perforation in one of my rocker panels and the rest of the truck is totally solid - because the insides of all the body panels are a wonderful greasy mess!

As for how to deal with frame rust, take a few days to search through Ih8muds huge list of frame welding and frame replacing threads to see your options.

good luck!

[jjlee]

Originally Posted by Freewheel

Hi Dieseler- From my reading on Mud, it seems that a well maintained 2H goes just as far as a 3B (and theres that Aussie Daily driver who drove a 2H to a million kilometers)- why do you say otherwise? Not being combative, just asking?

JJLee - that price is pretty good - especially with those extras (turbo and OME lift) - unfortunately that probably means you are going to be able to stick your fingers through the frame - I would roughly say that a non rusty, turboed, OME'd Canadian Spec 2H truck should go for twice the price that you've found.

As for Krown treatment - Duncan Autobody in Squamish does it, and it's the best thing you can do for your truck if you are going to drive it in the winter. I have one tiny rust perforation in one of my rocker panels and the rest of the truck is totally solid - because the insides of all the body panels are a wonderful greasy mess!

As for how to deal with frame rust, take a few days to search through Ih8muds huge list of frame welding and frame replacing threads to see your options.

good luck!

Thanks Freewheel.

What exactly do they do at Duncan Autobody in Squamish? Glad to hear that I can find help locally though. I'm in the middle of researching my options as to frame rust remedies, but not sure how much it'll cost in the end. Wondering if you or anyone else has had experience with this.

Can I get away with making the repairs for roughly the same cost as waiting it out for an HJ60 with a non-rusty frame.

Happy Canada Day, eh!

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by 87 HJ60

I don't have any idea personally in regards to how much Toyota wants for turbos here in Canada.
I got my turbo kit directly from Turbo Glide in Australia. They sell kits for both the 2H and 3B engines.

I meant the whole vehicle,a HJ61
I heard they were around the $10k mark.
Thats a bargain if they are asking $6-8k for a HJ60/BJ60.

You get so much more wth the JDM,like factory lockers,winch

[Dieseler]

I have heard of the same from Auzz but ( THATS NOT A NORM) the guys I have heard from here in B.C. say 350k ,it may be our mountains not sure I have only seen 3Bs lacally clocking 450k and the guys putting turbos on them at 350k ,guys with the 2H saying their motors were tiring out at 350k.
Plus when you say well maintaned I would agree if you were the original owner.... chances are it has had several owners with different driving habits and different maintanance habits.
I do not have first hand experience with the 2H, I have only had the 2B,3B and12HT all three of these I have had no issues, to me if its diesel and it runs I will run it till it dies I have no use for a gasser.

[Freewheel]

Thanks Dieseler, I'm at 260k km, I'll Pm you in 100,000 km and let you know how my truck is doing .

(the rate I'm going, that'll take about 10 years)



JJLee The Krown treatment is just a non toxic oil spray that is applied to the underside of the vehicle. They also drill holes in the pillars and parts of the body panels and spray inside them using a wand.

I get it done every November before the snow and salt comes.

This obviously is just for frame and body preservation, it does not repair anything. I'm still looking into places that will do frame welding, for when the little holes that I have get bigger. It's amazing to me how few of the "body shops" around Vancouver can be bothered to do rust work!

[jjlee]

Update:
Found a couple of HJ60 with 2H motors in "rebuilt" condition.

LC #1: (first two images)
- 1986 with minimal rust on body.
- Owner says that the frame will need attention, but not for a couple of years
- 2H with turbo and boost
- OME suspension (medium set-up)
- Auto transmission and working AC.
- contacts in the steering wheel need cleaning
- Asking 6k

LC #2: (last image)
- 1987 with quite a bit of rust on rocker panels and some surface rust on frame
- 2H engine rebuilt with 150K on it.
- Body has about 450K
- 5 Speed manual
- new rear diff.
- brakes just done
- New Rad
- new dual batteries
- asking 4K

Both interiors are in pretty good condition as well.
What am I looking at cost for a transmission swap on the auto (for a 5 speed)?

It's now between some frame work and transmission swap on the first, or major body work and possibly a turbo install on the second.

Any opinions?

[Elbert]

in general I would stay clear of bad rust.... mechanical issues can be reasonably fixed, rust can be a nightmare. You need someone to look at vehicle you suspect with frame damage, to see if the vehicle is even safe to operate.

[jjlee]

Ok, so ended up passing on the last few I've seen.
Here's the latest HJ60 I've checked out:

- 1986 HJ60 - 2H (6 diesel)
- 5 speed tranny
- 471000km (292,665 miles)
- drive-train is in really good condition
- no accidents
- minimal body rust
- some rust on frame (rear box section and hangers)

Some history:
2nd owner (he's owned it since 1990 when the LC had 50,000km or 31,000miles on it).
He has every record since new, and I mean EVERYTHING! all the receipts and even a log book of when and where all maintenance was done. Pretty meticulously taken care of.

The main concern I have is the rust on the frame, but I've sourced someone with a new frame who can do the swap for a fair price.

The other big one is the mileage. It seems really high and I'm not sure how much more life it has left, although he has taken really good care of it and a lot of mechanical parts are newish, withing 100-200k kms (62-124k miles). Dirvetrain has never been rebuilt though.

Should I pull the trigger?
What's it worth? (US or CAD). Asking $$ is 3-4k CAD (2700-3600 US)

[jjlee]

anybody? I don't mean to be pushy but I'd like to make a decision within the next day or two. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

[land crusher]

Did you take any pics of the frame?

P.S. I can't imagine any diesel engine crapping out at 300k kms of natural causes. Something would have to be horribly wrong. I'd expect to get WELL over 500k before rebuilding would be necessary.

[jjlee]

Originally Posted by land crusher

Did you take any pics of the frame?

P.S. I can't imagine any diesel engine crapping out at 300k kms of natural causes. Something would have to be horribly wrong. I'd expect to get WELL over 500k before rebuilding would be necessary.

Thanks Land Crusher. It did drive really well considering the high mileage.

Some photos of the frame, not great angles but...:

[Clem]

If that cruiser was in the US I would buy it in a heart beat...but I'm new and don't know much.

[land crusher]

I've seen worse frames than that. HArd to tell just by pictures, but you could probably live with it. A little TLC to keep it from getting worse. I'm not seeing any holes through it.

[sl33py]

James - i'd pull the trigger on the last one. Looks good and with continued good maintenance i think you will be happy with it.

it's not turboed so i expect it won't have the same oomph as the 3BT, but you should be able to get where you are going ... eventually.

looks like surface rust to me. check the inside of the rear panels, do some knock/magnet tests to make sure no bondo over rear wheel wells. Front knuckles look better than mine, but probably will need a rebuild eventually...

Good luck!

rob

[Freewheel]

Ya that last one looks pretty good, especially at that price. Take a screwdriver and a hammer and hit the inside of the frame rail where the muffler runs right next to the frame - if you don't knock off big flakes or cant jam the screwdriver through the frame - you could have a keeper!

The mileage IS high, - examine the records and see if the oil changes were done every 5000 or so km - if they have, you could be ok.

good luck