FJ60 Fuel Delivery Issues

ColoradoLC · 06-26-09, 08:00 AM

I have what I suspect to be a fuel delivery issue. At first I thought I had a carb issue, as it was about time for a rebuild. I had it rebuilt by Mark and put it back in and it does run better, but here's what happens:

I can get it started and it runs for a minute or so, but then it starts to choke and cough as if it's going to die. I can sometimes feather the gas pedal, but usually it will die and I will have to keep trying to get it started. It will run for a few minutes and then die again. This is what was happening and I though the carb was to blame. It probably was partially, but now that this is not an issue, it has to be something else.

I found a thread from a 62 owner with similar issues here. Could the fuel pressure regulator be the issue here too? I just wanted to check with 60 owners to see if they have had similar experiences before I plunk down $90 something for a new one from CDan.

Thanks!

Winston

2mbb · 06-26-09, 10:08 AM

60 series don't have pressure regulators. It's either your fuel pump is going out or one of your fuel lines or fuel pick up is clogged.

ColoradoLC · 06-26-09, 11:34 AM

Thanks mbb. Would you expect intermittent fuel issues if the fuel pump is going out? I would expect it to just stop working, not be sporadic like it is.

2mbb · 06-26-09, 01:11 PM

Yeah, I think so. Read this post, and/or search for more...http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...ose-weeks.html

lehiguy · 06-26-09, 01:50 PM

Start with the obvious/easy stuff. Toyota put the fuel filter on the passenger side fender with clamps designed to be removed without tools. Start there, then go to the pump, then the lines and pickup in the tank. Make sure the fuel lines are connected correctly and the pump is drawing through the filtered line, not ther return line.

ColoradoLC · 06-26-09, 02:02 PM

mbb, It sure sounds to me like the fuel pump could be the problem.

I did replace the fuel filter a couple of months before this started happening, but it ran fine for a while after that before the issues started happening. I'll look into a fuel pump and go from there.

lehiguy, those are good suggestions. I'll doublecheck the filter lines as you suggested.

Thanks guys!

3_puppies · 06-26-09, 03:41 PM

trace the fuel lines from tank to carb and make sure some other owner didn't add another fuel filter.

meatloaf · 06-26-09, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ColoradoLC

mbb, It sure sounds to me like the fuel pump could be the problem.

I did replace the fuel filter a couple of months before this started happening, but it ran fine for a while after that before the issues started happening. I'll look into a fuel pump and go from there.

lehiguy, those are good suggestions. I'll doublecheck the filter lines as you suggested.

Thanks guys!

Might want to pull off the filter and check an see if it is dirty. I had the same symptoms and it turned out to be a rusty gas tank...

eventhough · 06-26-09, 05:01 PM

I have the EXACT same problem with my Pig. I even had my carb rebuilt by JimC. Replace the fuel filter and it seems to run good for a bit - then back to bad.

I'm in the process of replacing my tank (b/c it is alllll beat up) and all fuel lines. Even gonna replace my fuel pump. I'll report back what happens...

FJ40Jim · 06-26-09, 08:37 PM

Check the carb sight glass when the engine is running good, vs. when it sputters and dies.

If sight glass is always showing fuel, then there is no problem w/ fuel delivery to the carb.

If sight glass shows fuel, then fuel drops off window and it dies, then there is a problem somewhere between fuel tank and inlet needle.

ColoradoLC · 06-26-09, 11:20 PM

That's a great idea Jim, that's why you are the man on the carb!

I'll check it this weekend and report back.

Eventhough, I am 95% sure my tank is good, but there is always the possibility the lines have gone bad. Let me know what you find with yours. This is an aggravating issue. My rig has always run so well. I should never have bragged about that for the last 4 years, because now look what happens...

jpnhgpl · 06-27-09, 12:43 PM

Note how full tank is when VAPOR LOCK starts to occur. When it occurs again STOP go around and pop the gas cap take note how aggressive the vaccum on the fuel tank is. After releasing this VAPOR LOCK start motor and note preformance difference. If there is a difference then your AIR SWITCHING VAlVE is dead $600 bucks for the part. Cheap fix is to buy a 2nd gas cap- drill a small hole in it and save the original for inspection time.
How do I know? Same problem, new fuel pump, air rale, exhaust, egr, carb, manifold work, new distributor---BUCKED LIKE a horse on the way out of the dealers shop. I drilled a hole in gas cap and it has never done it again. Hope this helps.
P.S clogged fuel filter usually results in a loss of power but the motor idles well and takes off at low speed OK but when more gas is required to speed up the choked motor just kind of slows down whether you floor the pedal or not. That is my experience with a clogged fj60 fuel filter.

eventhough · 06-27-09, 02:49 PM

FYI my fuel bowl is near empty to empty the one time I was able to hop out and check the level when it cut off/wouldn't restart.

ColoradoLC · 07-02-09, 02:18 PM

Well I let my rig run for about 30 minutes in the driveway since I didn't want to get stuck somewhere. It almost died at one point, but the fuel level in the sight glass was about 60%, which is about what it was at when it was running normally.

I did check the fuel filter which looked good. When I was checking with my flashlight on my head, I noticed some drips coming from under the fuel pump that I didn't notice before. Even though I didn't run the engine until it died, that's a sure sign I need a fuel pump, so I just called CruiserDan and order a new pump and insulator. I should get them some time next week.

I'll post up again after I get it in and test it with my results.

ColoradoLC · 07-07-09, 08:37 PM

Update: I got the new fuel pump from CruiserDan and got it in tonight and it looks like I still have the same issue.

Here's a little recap on what happens. I can get it started, and it runs pretty good, although it does idle a little unsteadily. It's possible that the carb (just recently rebuilt by Mark) needs further adjustment, but what adjustment specifically, I don't know. When I drive it, it hesitates when I give it consistent gas pedal. I was able to get it to die a couple of times, and ths sight glass showed gas level up to the top of the gas (I am on my driveway pointing down at about 5 degrees).

So rebuilt carb, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs. I am open to any other suggestions. Keep em coming.

Thanks,
Winston

ColoradoLC · 07-07-09, 08:46 PM

Oh also tested the gas cap. Still does the same thing with it off and depressurized.

hank14 · 07-08-09, 05:24 AM

Have you measured your intake vacuum since installing the rebuilt carb? You might have a vacuum hose hooked up wrong- I did that on my 60 after my carb rebuild. I had one of the 4 hoses on the valve cover side of the carb in the wrong place, making it seem like the fuel cut solenoid was not working.

Wouldn't hurt to double check all those vacuum lines.

ColoradoLC · 07-08-09, 10:20 AM

I don't have a way to measure the vacuum but it is possible that a hose is connected wrong. Since my marking were cleaned off the carb when it was rebuilt, I had to go with the best guess on the locations for them and fortunately, they were old enough that they wanted to go back to where they were originally. Still, that could be it. The FSM diagram leaves a little to be desired on the location for these from what I have seen. You don't happen to have a picture of those ones you are referring to on yours, do you?

2mbb · 07-08-09, 12:25 PM

I find these two drawings are helpful. The second one (from the emissions manual) shows a detail of how the tubes on the valve cover side of the carb are connected to the four vacuum manifold pipes--top to bottom.

http://www.sweetillusions.org/toyota/6.pdf
http://www.sweetillusions.org/toyota...um_routing.gif

ColoradoLC · 07-08-09, 04:10 PM

Wow! Great illustrations 2mbb. Once again, thanks! I'll check this out when I get home.

jpnhgpl · 07-08-09, 08:05 PM

Fuel or spark, if you got the dilevery system pretty much run down, you should start looking at that distrib, spark ignitor. I have a gm hei on mine and the module went out on it and it displayed simular symptoms- extreme rough idle, died with any pedal applied.

ColoradoLC · 09-03-09, 12:20 PM

Final update!

It's fixed and running great! In the end it was my ignition coil that was bad. Apparently, at some point in the past an aftermarket one was put on and not the OEM one. Now that I have an OEM one on, it drives better and smoother than it ever did. Probably the fact that I replaced everything else that could have been related may have something to do with that, but who's complaining?

Thanks for all of the suggestions!

nichols319 · 10-26-09, 07:13 PM

Well... I've run into the same fuel starvation symptoms.

Question: If I'm cranking away should the gas level in the window still fill-up to 50%? It's shown that when it's running, but now I can't get it to fire and the window is empty.

Thanks much,
Tim

FJ40Jim · 10-27-09, 10:40 AM

Yes, the fuel pump should fill the carb window up to the middle with enough cranking.

Pull the line off the front of the carb and see if gas squirts out when cranking. If yes, then the problem is carb. If no, then there is a fuel feed problem, i.e. plugged pickup, plugged filter, bad pump, etc.

Creeper · 10-27-09, 12:36 PM

My fuel delivery issue was fixed by taking the hose that goes from the gas tank to the charcoal canister off the canister. The canister is clogged and it was creating some kind of vacuum. I do not think this is very safe since the tank now vents into the engine bay, but it couldn't be much worse than the fuel pump spraying fuel all over the engine bay for months. But I refuse to pay $600 for a used charcoal canister.

nichols319 · 10-27-09, 01:22 PM

Thanks for letting me recycle the thread.

Jim, yes the fuel pump pushes a good amount when the line is off. I don't have a gauge to measure pressure, but I suspect not being fuel injected that isn't much pressure anyway? Maybe the float is getting hung up (figure of speech and literally too)?

Creeper is the canister designed just to collect fumes/old school emissions breather thingy?

Thanks a bunch
Tim

Creeper · 10-27-09, 01:53 PM

Charcoal canister helps to protect the environment and improve fuel economy by collecting fumes and sending them to the engine to burn when needed. So I would think it would need to be hooked up to pass emissions. Which can be done, just don't drive it from Texas to Missouri or you will only make if half way

It seemed to be creating a vacuum/pressure because it could not vent through the canister. Ever since I unhooked it from the tank I have had no issues.