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12-01-04, 06:40 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 451
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Diamond Plate Cargo Area
I know somone has done this and I can't find the thread by searching. I want to copy what he did, diamond plate the sides of the cargo area, cut holes for my speakers and sound proof the back of the metal then screw it on with self tapping screws.
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12-01-04, 09:18 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 987
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why don't you pull the factory panels and use them as templates for your diamond plate? cut 'em, grind 'em, and screw the mothers in....sounds like you've got the plan figured out already -- start cutting
-dogboy- '87 FJ60
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12-01-04, 09:43 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Wagon Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 1,820
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Instead of self-tapping screws, which will inevitably loosen over time from the vibration, I suggest using nutcerts on the stock tabs and then using SS hex-head screws, the kind that can also be finger tightened. That's what a buddy of mine used for his and it looks top-notch.
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12-01-04, 09:50 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 451
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Exiled
Instead of self-tapping screws, which will inevitably loosen over time from the vibration, I suggest using nutcerts on the stock tabs and then using SS hex-head screws, the kind that can also be finger tightened. That's what a buddy of mine used for his and it looks top-notch.
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Got a picture or something? I don't exactly follow.
Also this post had a detailed write-up on what he did and an online supplier of the stuff for great prices.
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12-01-04, 09:53 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Wagon Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 1,820
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Email for sending the pics? I got a couple big ones, good details.
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12-01-04, 10:05 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Wagon Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 1,820
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You got mail!
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12-01-04, 10:08 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
Posts: 266
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i would be very grateful to see your pics My E-mail is Wildman4wheeler@msn.com
__________________
Knox Rocks Offroad
Find me on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/lezlie
1983 FJ 60 SOA underway
1983 Toyota p/u its got some stuff on it
1985 Toyota p/u basically a pile of parts right now
2003 Ford F250 6Leaker aka Krawler Hauler
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12-01-04, 10:08 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 451
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Exiled
You got mail!
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For everyone who missed out!
Last edited by WALoeIII; 01-27-05 at 05:54 PM.
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12-01-04, 10:10 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
Posts: 266
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THanks
__________________
Knox Rocks Offroad
Find me on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/lezlie
1983 FJ 60 SOA underway
1983 Toyota p/u its got some stuff on it
1985 Toyota p/u basically a pile of parts right now
2003 Ford F250 6Leaker aka Krawler Hauler
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12-01-04, 10:12 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 451
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What is a nutcert, would it just fit into the existing tabs (which are now stretched out) from the backside and give me something to bolt them into?
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12-01-04, 10:23 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Wagon Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 1,820
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Nutcert (also called threaded insert or Rivnut) is exactly that, an aluminum (usually) "rivet" that is open at both ends and has threads inside. It's installed with a special tool that closely resembles regular rivet pliers. They're great for taking advantage of holes that you cannot access from the backside. I used them to mount my rocklights to the frame, but they're perfect for this application. You know the metal tabs where the OEM plastic "thingamajiggies" that hold the cargo panels in place? You install nutcerts in all of these, then drill holes in your new diamond plate panels, and you got yourself a secure mounting setup.
Nutcerts are usually sold as kits (come with the tool), I got a very inexpensive kit from Harbor Freight, but there are nicer kits available.
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12-02-04, 12:08 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 451
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Exiled
Nutcert (also called threaded insert or Rivnut) is exactly that, an aluminum (usually) "rivet" that is open at both ends and has threads inside. It's installed with a special tool that closely resembles regular rivet pliers. They're great for taking advantage of holes that you cannot access from the backside. I used them to mount my rocklights to the frame, but they're perfect for this application. You know the metal tabs where the OEM plastic "thingamajiggies" that hold the cargo panels in place? You install nutcerts in all of these, then drill holes in your new diamond plate panels, and you got yourself a secure mounting setup.
Nutcerts are usually sold as kits (come with the tool), I got a very inexpensive kit from Harbor Freight, but there are nicer kits available.
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Cool so is this something I could get from my school's engineering department? I've got the five finger discount there.
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12-02-04, 12:37 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 18
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I used a "j" style speed nut, this allows for a little flexibility to get all of the holes lined up. I got mine at a local industrial hardware company but you can get them (see them) at mcmaster carr, look up speed nut. they only take seconds to install and don't require any special tools. I also used some scrap perforated sheet to make bomb proof speaker grills. have fun.
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12-02-04, 01:32 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Where's mah cruzah?
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 804
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Huh. Funny this topic should surface now. I'm currently collecting road signs to make some interior panels.
Is there a cheap source of metric nutserts out there anywhere? I'd like to use the existing holes, and imperial nutserts don't fit right. If not, I guess I'm going to use some (imperial) rubber well nuts, since those expand to fit the holes very nicely...
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