[RockDoc]

Okay, I was out on the road last weekend, and these 2 strays followed me home.

An ’83 2F and a complete 3FE-A440F-splitcase combo from an ’89 62. The plan is to put together a 2FE-A440F-splitcase to drop in the next stray to follow me home ( crystal ball says it will be a ’90 62)

I am trying to get together as much info on building a 2FE as possible now, so I can get all the needed bits together for the build to go smoothly. The build likely won’t start till summer, after the new 62 gets dragged home. If I don’t get my 3FE top end work-over done before the 62 retrieval trip, all those goodies will likely go directly onto the 2FE. Engine will go together de-smogged, but I’d like to leave that door open incase I have to re-smog it down the road.

These are the threads and write-ups I am aware of:

Tonkota’s write up - http://www.steelnthings.com/TLCA/2Fswap/2feswap.pdf
Pappy’s pdf - http://bushrat.hdcruisers.org/3FEconversion.pdf
Matt’s 2F-ETI - http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...o-my-fj40.html
CruisinFJ60’s Fiona - 2F-E Swap for Fiona

Please point out any I am missing.


Parts needed:

Block, Crank, Rods, Pistons – 2F
Rod Bolts – Anyone have the ARP part number? Discussed here.
Camshaft and lifters – I’ll pull from the 2F and have reground while in the states
Timing Gear – is the aftermarket solid better? (one with no resin ring)
Pushrods – 2F
Head, Manifolds, Induction – 3FE
Rocker Assembly - ???? (2F and 3FE rocker arms differ to accommodate different length of exhaust valve. Rocker assembly must match to valves.)
Head Bolts - ???? (Again, think I heard one option was better than the other)
Distributor – 3FE, need a late 2F side cover to accommodate
Valve Cover – prefer the look of the 2F cover if the PCV system can be adjusted to work
Water pump - 2F
Thermostat housing – 3FE
Accessories - 3FE
Motor mount brackets – 3FE, has AC pump mount on it
Fan Shroud – sounds like a 60 shroud will do the trick

Please start tossing ideas at me.

Thanks, Curtis.

[Godwin]

Originally Posted by RockDoc

Fan Shroud – Does the waterpump shift up with the 2F block? Will a 60 shroud work?

Please start tossing ideas at me.

Thanks, Curtis.

Keep the fan shroud-block combination together. IOW 2F block + 2F fan shroud, same for 3F, to maintain the correct placement of the fan within the shroud. Otherwise you'll be drilling new holes in the shroud to move it up or down.

[crzrcrzy]

you'll have to use the 2f waterpump. The 3fe wont mount up. Hose sizes are different so you've gotta rig up a reducer.
Here's mine

Home Depot fitting



I'm still trying to get mine started. Starts right up but she refuses to run right. Very frustrating.

[tonkota]

View the "CAMSHAFT" thread. See link in my sig.

A 2F-E is easy for a FJ62, not easy for a FJ60.

EDIT:
I really should answer your questions. If you have any more, ask away!

You will need the 2F water pump.
3F-E thermostat housing
Keep the 3F-E accessories mounting points
3F-E Motor mount brackets, the A/C compressor mounts to the motor mount.
Fan Shroud: Currently I am only using 1/2 of the FJ62 shroud. I have a FJ60 shroud sitting in my basement that I hope to fit up here pretty soon. I'll let you know.

[D'Animal]

I don't want to over simplify the build but I though you started with a 2F short block and bolted the head and everything from the 3FE onto the 2F. Since it is going into a FJ62 all the connectors should be plug and play.

[cruiser88]

Ha doc Nick from Ohio did one......and a damn good job!

he is a good fella

http://forum.ih8mud.com/members/zebrabeefj40.html

[RockDoc]

Thanks guys, I'll have to start stripping down the engines when I have a chance, sure I'll have plenty more questions once that happens.

[RockDoc]

Started cleaning and tearing down the 2F. Might get the head off tonight if I don't sit watching the playoffs too long. Man 25 years leads to quite a coating of grime.

Do the pushrods need to be kept in order for any reason? Any tips for removing the crank nut with the engine out and no impact gun?

A few pics for no good reason:
Extra credit for the first to point out the obvious.

[GLTHFJ60]

The 2F came with a block heater?

[RockDoc]

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60

The 2F came with a block heater?

Stamped "made in Canada" Likely dealer installed or installed by a previous owner when it came north.

That reminds me - Were FJ60s sold in Canada? I was under the impression it was only diesels in the 60s (till the 62 came out).

[GLTHFJ60]

I know not this thing you speak of, "Canadia"

I have no idea. I only assumed that FJ60's made it up north, but come to think of it I rarely see a FJ60 for sale out of Canada.

[pappy]

Originally Posted by RockDoc

Rocker Assembly - ???? (think I heard the 2F was better for some reason)
Distributor – 3FE, need a late 2F side cover to accommodate (I don’t have one currently)
Valve Cover – prefer the look of the 2F cover if the PCV system can be adjusted to work.

I thought the rocker assembly was the same 2F vs. 3FE.
The 1983 2F will have the dimpled side cover for the larger dizzy.
I didn't even try and use the 2F rocker arm cover as it looked like too much work.

[RockDoc]

Originally Posted by pappy

I thought the rocker assembly was the same 2F vs. 3FE.

I might have this confused with a change in the rocker assembly (lightening) with the introduction of the 60s? At any rate, I'll be able to do a side by side comparison now. edit - The rocker assemblies are not the same. The length of the exhaust valve differs between the 2F and 3FE (at least 83 2F vs 3FE), so the rocker assembly must match the valves you use.

Originally Posted by pappy

The 1983 2F will have the dimpled side cover for the larger dizzy.

This 2F had the side cover and some other non-essential bits removed before I got my hands on it .... have a line on one now.

Originally Posted by pappy

I didn't even try and use the 2F rocker arm cover as it looked like too much work.

Good to know, I know Matt used it on his, but then too much work was less of a concern for him I think.

Thanks for chiming in.

[RockDoc]

Have the head ready to pull off the block, but it won't separate. I tried a moderate beating with a light hammer and a wooden block. Is there a subtle way to break it away, or is it time for some BFH motivation?

[D'Animal]

Did you remove the valve train carraige and get the bolt in the middle of the head?

[cruiser88]

Yes label the pushrods and headbolts!

[cruiser88]

You still have the hook on? If so I actually had to use a come along once..it was that bad

Originally Posted by RockDoc

Have the head ready to pull off the block, but it won't separate. I tried a moderate beating with a light hammer and a wooden block. Is there a subtle way to break it away, or is it time for some BFH motivation?

[cruiser88]

ohhhhhhh yea the one that requiresa crows foot

Originally Posted by D'Animal

Did you remove the valve train carraige and get the bolt in the middle of the head?

[tonkota]

Originally Posted by cruiser88

Yes label the pushrods and headbolts!

I have never done this (except for those two front head bolts which are longer to hold the air pump bracket).

Why do you feel it is important 88? From my view, the pushrods really just sit there and ride in the lifter and push on the rocker, no big deal since everything will need adjusted once re-installed. For the head bolts, they are are re-torqued when reinstalled.

[cruiser88]

Dad taught me and I am anal about shit like that

Originally Posted by tonkota

I have never done this (except for those two front head bolts which are longer to hold the air pump bracket).

Why do you feel it is important 88? From my view, the pushrods really just sit there and ride in the lifter and push on the rocker, no big deal since everything will need adjusted once re-installed. For the head bolts, they are are re-torqued when reinstalled.