[macgyverFJ62]

Just curious synthetic or conventional, and does anyone use those high mileage engine additives, what kind of mileage does your engine have

[WALoeIII]

50k on newish 2F
Mobile 1 Syn 10W-40

[HZJ60 Guy]

Amsoil heavy duty (synthetic) diesel oil.

Amsoil remote mount dual filter (one engine oil filter one bypass filter) kit.

Amsoil preoiler. Turn the key on and the engine gets pressurized with oil. Avoids ever dry starting your engine.


http://www.amsoil.com/products/hdd.html


http://www.amsoil.com/products/bf.html


http://www.amsoil.com/products/amk.htm

TB

[devo]

Amsiol 5-40 in my big V8. 15,000 miles between changes and changing my Amsoil filter every 7,000.
Ran Quaker 10-40 and added MOA from the 44k people in my 200k mile 2F.
All vehickles front to back run synthetic. They are far superior lubricants.
devo

[nuclearlemon]

valvoline 20w50 on two older engines.

[Cruiserdrew]

199,347 miles on original 2f

Winter oil: Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 (Wal-mart $12/gallon)
Summer oil: Chevron Delo 15w-40 (Costco 6 gallons for $35)

[brian]

shell rotella 15-40
the 60 has just over 200K
don't know about the 40, other than alot.

[dogboy2]

Castrol 10W-30, 2F motor w/ 133K

-db-

[Boston Mangler]

What would you all recommend for a Rebuilt 2F with 10K on it?

Motor actually has 220k But when rebuilt, the Pistons, Rings, And Rod Bearings were replaced.

I was thinking Mobil 1 Synthetic 20w50 but have heard from some not to run Synthetic in Higher mileage engines. Does mine qualify as high mileage with a rebuild?

Thanks

[HZJ60 Guy]

That's bunk. Run it. Todays synthetic is SO superior to dyno oil you really should use it.



TB

[Boston Mangler]

What about synthetic leaking past seals easier?

[cahilc]

Is anyone wondering if oil pressure is more important than what type of oil ?

More importantly ... how different oils, synthetics, blends, & fern juice may create different oil pressures in our engines ?

Or am I just over reacting on this ?

Cheers,
Cahil

[HZJ60 Guy]

Originally Posted by Boston Mangler

What about synthetic leaking past seals easier?

That is the old argument.

If your engine is going to leak then you need to fix it!


If your engine leaks because of synthetic oil it is need of repair!





TB

[Boston Mangler]

Originally Posted by HZJ60 Guy

That is the old argument.
If your engine is going to leak then you need to fix it!

If your engine leaks because of synthetic oil it is need of repair!

Ok Thanks!

What visc is recommended for a 2F with 220k but 10k on a rebuild? 20w50?

[cruiser_guy]

Originally Posted by Boston Mangler

Ok Thanks!

What visc is recommended for a 2F with 220k but 10k on a rebuild? 20w50?

You could go 20w50 in San Diego if you're not going into the mountains (ie: cold temperatures). If you're a skier I'd stick with 10w30 in the ski season for sure. Viscosity is dependant on the ambient temperature as much as on the age of the engine. Synthetic seems to get better mileage.

btw I run 15w 40 Shell Rotella when I can and I've got 400,000kM on mine. I've also run synthetic (tranny/transfer and axles are all synthetic ALL the time) with good results and straight 30w when I had a long cross continent trip to do. It kind of depends on the use you make of the truck as well.

[cahilc]

Originally Posted by cruiser_guy

...
btw I run 15w 40 Shell Rotella ...

I changed to that equivalent in Pennsoil. Rumor has it it's the same company. That oil has the proprietary molecular structure that Pennsoil has patented until 2008. Resists viscosity breakdown better than any oil except synthetic.

Had some oil on the spark plugs with Mobil One 15w-50. Now using Pennsoil 15w-40 "Endurance" or "Long Use" whichever one is for diesels.

Oil in your cylinders will make you ping like crazy.

To run synthetics corretly the engine has to be tight on bearing tolerances. Hence, most not recommending swithing to syn's on old non-use syn motors.

Cahil

[cahilc]

Boston,

Was the motor rebuild for mineral or synthetic oil ? There is a difference. Find out if possible.

Rememeber, synthetics were not popular until early 1990's. Most of our motors were build with the intention of running mineral oils.

For mineral I would recommend:

Cheron Delo 15w-40
Shell Rotella 15w-40
Pennsoil ??? 15w-40

All are diesel certified oils and have anit-soot charactersitics. Interesting to note that all are 15w-40 weight too. Basically heavy truck oils.

If you run synthetics be careful of pressure, having enough of it. Synthetics are a lot slicker for the same weight oil, sometimes an advantage, but give up anit-soot characteristics, cleaning.

Cheers,
Cahil

[Boston Mangler]

Originally Posted by cahilc

Boston,

Was the motor rebuild for mineral or synthetic oil ? There is a difference. Find out if possible.

Rememeber, synthetics were not popular until early 1990's. Most of our motors were build with the intention of running mineral oils.

I am 99% sure that it was rebuilt for regular mineral oil. What would be different? The rings? It was rebuilt using a Specter Rebuild kit, if that matters. Whats the difference?

[macgyverFJ62]

Don't know the difference but I'd stick with mineral oil like cahil said

[HZJ60 Guy]

Ugh, you guys are making this to complicated.

There is only ONE rule. A brand new motor, or a new rebuild should run dyno for the first 5000 miles or so. Synthetic is to damn slippery and the rings may not seat properly.

After that it's synthetic all the way. Engines werent built or not built with synthetic in mind. Today they maybe, but before they were not.

Synthetic is so good that you should run longer oil change intervals anyway. That way you make up the extra cost of the oil.



TB

[cruiser_guy]

Just a note of interest. When I tore down a 3B engine with nearly 300,000kM on it and checked bearing tolerances using Plastigage the tolerances were STILL well within factory specifications. I would not get too excited about possible excess bearing wear (at least on the 3B bearings).
Personally however, I prefer to change the oil at the more frequent intervals and have thus decided on the mineral oil simply because of cost. Yes, synthetic oil is better but it is more expensive and less frequent oil changes to help recover that cost means that any contaminates continue to circulate in the engine. Yes filter changes between oil changes get rid of filterable contaminates but not any adverse chemicals or acids which can also cause problems. My diffs will continue with synthetic but my engine will get mineral oil at 5000kM intervals or less.

As others have said, synthetic will show up with leaky seals. I had a couple of leaky axle seals as well and fixed them and now all is well.

[Mike S]

My 60 has about 160K miles. I am running Mobil One and change every 6000 to 7000 miles.

I run Mobil Ome in all my vehicles. I believe that it is superior to conventional oils, and the delta in mileage between changes makes the cost about the same as quality conventional oils.

[cahilc]

Originally Posted by Boston Mangler

I am 99% sure that it was rebuilt for regular mineral oil. What would be different? The rings? It was rebuilt using a Specter Rebuild kit, if that matters. Whats the difference?

Ok, hears what I understand.

Rebuild with 10k on the new rebuild. Not specifically built for synthetics. Motors specifically build for synthetics have *very* tight tolerances.

With 10k your rebuild motor should be seated correctly. I prefer 10k, HZJ60 prefers 5k before synthetics, opinions vary. So ... if you were going to try synthetics now would be the optimal time for your rebuild motor.

Synthetics are *way* slicker than conventinal oils. 5w-30 syn is way slicker(thinner) than 5w-30 conventional. I don't have a graph for comparison.

Older high milage motors which have run conventinal oil their whole life when switched to synthetics, will most probably leak & loose oil pressure.

Your motor uses oil for two reasons. Hydraulic *pressure* cushon on bearings and cleaning(physical & chemical).

If your motor is worn and has loose bearings and switched to synthetic oil ... there may not be enough oil pressure to maintain correct hydraulic cushion and you will have problems.

The opposite is true too. If the motor is build(tight) specifically for synthetics and you run conventinal oil there will be to much pressure. Problems again the reverse of the above.

Long oil changes ? Filters are physical filters not chemical. After a while the chemisty of the oil changes(suspending soot) and will cause a need for it to be replaced.

Diesel conventional oils are better at cleaning than synthetics too ...

???

What to recommend ? What's your preference ?

I'm a Mobil One synthetic fan but I'm now running Pennsoil 'Diesel' High Performance 15w-40 in my FJ60 because with the Mobil One 15w-50 there was to much oil getting in the cylinders and causing pinning. So ... Pennsoil 15w-40 is way thicker than Mobil One 15w-50.

You have plenty of options ...

Cheers,
Cahil

[DocB]

30 weight dino oil, but I'm a cheap bastid.

[Benji]

Dino 10w-40 mobil. I change it whenever I feel like it. That usually happens to be way below the 3,000 mark, so synthetic does not pay off for me.

It's runn'n great so I aint chang'n tothing.

[Outback]

Synthetic NAPA (Valvoline) 5w30 in my '01 Tacoma w/ 78k miles.
Synthetic Valvoline 75w90 in diffs and xfer case.

Dino NAPA 10w30 in my '72 FJ40 w/ ~15k on rebuilt engine.
Dino Generic 80w90 in diffs and xfer case (because it gets changed out all the time).

Jody.

[Civil1]

Delo 15W-40 2F 240,000 miles

[NocalFJ60]

10w 30 Mobile Synthetic blend

It is a cheaper than Mobil 1 full synthetic and you don't have to worry about causing leaks but get some added protection with the synthetic. I tried going to Mobil 1 at 120K and oil pan and rear seal started to leak some.

If I totally rebuilt my engine, I would go with full synthetic.


I never knew what real oil is actually made of until a few weeks ago. Real oil is mostly made up of plankton.

[HZJ60 Guy]

Originally Posted by NocalFJ60

10w 30 Mobile Synthetic blend

It is a cheaper than Mobil 1 full synthetic and you don't have to worry about causing leaks but get some added protection with the synthetic. I tried going to Mobil 1 at 120K and oil pan and rear seal started to leak some.

If I totally rebuilt my engine, I would go with full synthetic.


I never knew what real oil is actually made of until a few weeks ago. Real oil is mostly made up of plankton.

YOU ARE WASTEING YOUR MONEY! There are no regulations as to WHAT the percentage of synthetic IS in your blend. You are getting robbed.

Buy equal amounts of mineral and syenthetic and BLEND YOUR OWN!

That's the only way you can be sure you're getting any measureable amount of synthetic in your blend.


TB

[freebornred]

allwright heres my 2cents, synthetic oils are great they offer great protection at all visc. grades. espescialy if your running a modern high compression multi valve ohc. 100hp per liter engine then the benefits outway the cost of these exellent oils. but come on guys were running a low compression ohv 2v 6cyl that was designed and tested to run 100's of thousands of miles on min. oils ! i mean the 2f will run on pure will if it had to, these engines are among the strongest toughest engines ever put in a paseenger veh. , youll be hard preseed to find a tougher more reliable engine than the 2f. so what do i use 20w50 every 5k the cheaper the better! yeah you can fork over the extra beans 4 the syn. stuff im sure it wont hurt but in my opp. it just isnt worth it. ill save the syn. 4 my M3 and as 4 oil add. i dont beleive in them !