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01-17-09, 08:29 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 38
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Anti wrap fab and install
Finally got some time over the holiday season to make and fit an anti wrap bar. Can't believe the difference! Even feels better on the road. I have included some photos and comments for anyone interested.
Below is the chassis mount (made a duplicate of everything to go into a mates truck) made from 50x50x3 SHS. Picked up a shackle and bushed mount from the local trailer supplier.
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01-17-09, 08:32 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Juan Puerto Rico
Posts: 1,691
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Pictures installed???
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01-17-09, 08:34 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 38
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Cleaned chassis and welded mount on. (I hate welding upside down!). Cut out some cardboard templates for the diff mounting brackets and blew them out of 8mm flat bar with the oxy.
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01-17-09, 08:40 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 38
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Purchased a rose joint from the local bearing supplier and machined up two sleeves to locate it in the centre of the shackle. Should have been a five minute job but my lathe is very dodgy. The centre hole was slightly off but not to worry. Also bored and tapped a thread into some round bar to weld into the end of the wrap bar.
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01-17-09, 08:44 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 38
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Was going to move the handbrake mount over to the left as Toyota have conveniently drilled two sets of holes but after checking the handbrake cable length on full travel i decided to remove it completely and instead weld a small bracket onto the diff brackets.
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01-17-09, 08:48 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 38
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Turned up some round bar to take the rubber bushes at the diff end of the bar. Would have liked a notcher but a hole saw did the trick for profiling the ends of the bar.
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01-17-09, 08:56 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 38
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Did a dummy fit-up next to determine the lengths of the top and bottom bars. Once cut, they were reinstalled and the top bar welded to the rose joint mounting piece. The bottom bar was then marked and cut to fit the top bar. Tried to keep the bottom bar as long as possible to act as a tailshaft guard as well. Then cut some of the left over 8mm flat bar to make a brace between the top and bottom bars at the diff end.
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01-17-09, 09:02 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 38
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Time for final fit-up and pre paint test. Adjusted the rose joint until the angle of the shackle was dead vertical. Will install a locknut on this once i have tested it under full travel. Handbrake cable seems to clear everything ok and does not get tight under full travel anymore.
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01-17-09, 09:15 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 38
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Killing two birds with one stone. Much quicker to make two sets at the same time! And, of course, wouldn't be complete without an action shot. Many thanks to all the people with similar posts as it made the planning so much easier.
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01-17-09, 09:34 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Reno, Nevada
Posts: 4,464
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Nice job!
Looks like a fun test run too!
Chicago
__________________
TLCA#16202, KE7VAT
Toyota family:
88 FJ62 (Sold to a good home. Goodbye old friend!)
76 FJ40 (Blotch rig part deux)
06 4runner...wifes rig!
06 Tacoma, DD, BONE STOCK and staying that way!
PROUD member of the WEST COAST BLOTCHERS and the Battle Born Cruisers of Northern Nevada!
FAWKING CUBS!
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01-17-09, 10:22 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 95
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anything u would change ??
__________________
when i break it you'll know it was me ,....i think i broke it !
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01-17-09, 11:00 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 38
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Would like to have cut some holes in the flat bar that i welded in the rear of the wrap bar before i welded it into place but using a hole saw with a hand drill is tedious and time consuming at best. I do have a mill but not at home so i might remove it at some stage and add the holes - although they really are just for looks.
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01-17-09, 11:15 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Posts: 4,944
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Dude, I need your garage doors!!
__________________
84 FJ60, 256k (Rumpleshank)- suckiest day of my life, WagonGear'd, cleaned, fixed, carb'd, OME lift'd, U-bolts flip'd, Remflex'd and now waiting for a new motor
86 FJ60, 180k (Rizzabella)- just bought it
97 LX450, 227k, non-locked. Expedition vehicle in progress. Auto-up mod, Coolant mod, Garage door mod, Jumper Cables, Dual batteries, Power Distribution 1, 2, 3, 4, Switch mod, Slee harness, Coolant/windshield sensor mod, CDL & 7-pin mod, Dog mod, Drillbit mod, IPOR'd, Yellowbox'd, Scion'd, Trans gauge mod, MAF'd, JDM fan'd, kid seat mod, Factory rack removed 
Mark's Off-Road for all 40,45,60 parts
ふざけんなよ!
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01-18-09, 01:22 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Richmond B.C.
Posts: 867
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Will the shackle part of your system hit the transfer case, looking at the pics it looks as if there is that possibility not sure if there is forward travel or does it stop short of contact.
__________________
1981 BJ 41 RHD New
1982 BJ 44 RHD Hers
1983 BJ 42 Cdn His
1988 HJ 61 RHD His
1988 FJ 62 Cdn Hers
1989 FJ 62 RHD His (new addition)Ambi Doors
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01-19-09, 03:20 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 38
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No the shackle can move around 60mm forward before it hits the mount. Hard to see from the photo but it is actually about 100mm away from the transfer so i can remove the box (auto) if need be. I tested it on the hoist at work and the total movement is 15mm in either direction so there is tons of room.
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