[slcfj62]

My power windows and door locks haven't worked very well since I got my fj62 last spring. I've read enough postings to know that this problem is not unique to my cruiser. Awhile ago, I finally got around to pulling the master switch panel and all the door switches out and removing the pits from the contacts with emery paper and polishing the contacts all nice and shiny like has been recommended on another post. I even put dielectric grease in there as well. I reinstalled the switches and tried the power door locks and bamm, up and down they went for about 5 cycles. Then right back to the old problem. I pulled the master switch panel out again, and had a little black pit in the contacts. Curses. I think that the original surface of the contacts was hardened a little, and once that is eroded away, the softer metal won't stand up to switching that much current.

The switch contacts for the drivers window aren't the same as the rest. They are just flat copper bars without the contact because they just control the relays for the drivers window. The relays actually switch the current for the window motor. So, I figured why not use relays to switch the current for the windows in the rest of the doors and the power door locks as well? After examining the wiring diagrams, I figured out how to add relays to the other windows and for the door locks, and ordered a set of 8 relays with sockets and pigtails for about $50. Each relay will switch 50 amps, so they should never wear out. If they do, it's only a $5 fix.

Well, tonight I wired in the relays for the door locks. I tried the locks. They all jump up and down with authority. I must have cycled them 50 times and they work fantastic! Now I was really stoked, so I dove into the passenger door window switch. Toyota did kind of a funky thing with the windows. The window lock switch actually interrupts the path to ground for the window motors. So when you lock the windows, you can't even roll them down from the master control panel. In order to use relays with the windows, I had to change the ground path, so the window lock feature doesn't have any effect any more. I have to wire in a ground to each door switch. I haven't quite figured out the best way to do that. I am leaning toward just using a braided strap between the door pillar and the door, and then grounding the door switch to a ground point on the door. But hey, the passenger window goes up and down lickedy-split now. It is just as fast as the drivers side. I ran out of time to complete the back doors, I'll have to get to them later.

But if anyone else out there is interested in the fix, I will take some pictures and do a short write-up of the procedure. You'll have to add a ground to three doors and you'll have to cut some wires between the switches and the connectors and figure out where to stuff the relays in the doors, but for $50 in relays and sockets, you can breathe new life into your door locks and windows!

I'm out for tonight.

[jessewmcgregor]

very interested also supplier and part numbers if you would be so kind

[intense1]

I second that, mine are really slow and I've done all the cleaning. Do the write-up man!

[DirtyLittleSecret]

If we dont get a write up sometime soon you will be getting a knock on your front door at 3AM sometime this weekend.

[Spook50]

Great to see that someone figured out how to do this. I had thought about it some time ago, but I lack the electrical knowhow to have been able to figure out how to do it right. I'm sure there's a way to reingetrate the lock switch at some point in the future, but for now it sounds like you've got the major power starvation figured out.

There's a car stereo shop up the street from my folks place that does a TON of custom work and designing systems from scratch for damn near every vehicle out there. The guy who owns the place is a wizard with anything electrical, so I'm goint to take my 62 to him and see if maybe he can also find a different, newer style of motor that can be swapped in with little (or preferably no) modification to the doors. I figure a more efficient, more torquey motor would help bigtime with our windows as well.

Also, don't forget the window channels themselves. They can be a huge factor in window speed as well. On my list of summer maintenance this year is replacing the channels on all four doors.

[Dieseler]

Can I get those relays in 24v for my HJ61

[slcfj62]

Originally Posted by Spook50

Great to see that someone figured out how to do this. I had thought about it some time ago, but I lack the electrical knowhow to have been able to figure out how to do it right. I'm sure there's a way to reingetrate the lock switch at some point in the future, but for now it sounds like you've got the major power starvation figured out.

There's a car stereo shop up the street from my folks place that does a TON of custom work and designing systems from scratch for damn near every vehicle out there. The guy who owns the place is a wizard with anything electrical, so I'm goint to take my 62 to him and see if maybe he can also find a different, newer style of motor that can be swapped in with little (or preferably no) modification to the doors. I figure a more efficient, more torquey motor would help bigtime with our windows as well.

Also, don't forget the window channels themselves. They can be a huge factor in window speed as well. On my list of summer maintenance this year is replacing the channels on all four doors.

You aren't going to need to swap out the motors unless the motors themselves are shot. The window goes up and down like anything once you get the relays installed. The difference is like night and day. In fact, it goes up so hard that it started to jump the channel where it sticks. I already have the window channels on order from CDan. Once I get them installed, power window problems will be a thing of the past.

[slcfj62]

Originally Posted by Dieseler

Can I get those relays in 24v for my HJ61

I'm sure you can. The relays are just standard relays that I got from an online car audio place. I'll post the part numbers for the 12 Volt ones and see if they have 24 Volt. If they don't, you'll have to source your own relays, but it shouldn't be too tough.

[slcfj62]

Originally Posted by DirtyLittleSecret

If we dont get a write up sometime soon you will be getting a knock on your front door at 3AM sometime this weekend.

Yeah Yeah, so don't come pounding on my door yet. I'll do the write up Saturday morning which is my next window of available time. I thought there would be some interest in this. It's my first real chance to give back something useful. I've certainly benefitted immensely from the collective knowledge on this site. It's a wonderful resource.

[calphi27]

I am glad someone got this figured out. Now all we need is someone to build a new master control panel where the switches won't fall out.

[Birdstrike]

Originally Posted by Dieseler

Can I get those relays in 24v for my HJ61

Me too please. If you find some 24V relays Dieseler let me know. You'll have more options on the coast.(a little limited up here)

[Randy88FJ62]

I am interested and look forward to the writeup.

[ntsqd]

Perhaps Mike Carter's write-up will be of some help? 4rnnrs are known for this problem too.

http://carterswebsite.com/4runner/mo...r_windows.html

[slcfj62]

Originally Posted by ntsqd

Perhaps Mike Carter's write-up will be of some help? 4rnnrs are known for this problem too.

http://carterswebsite.com/4runner/mo...r_windows.html

Hey, your opinion is pretty good this time! I looked at Mr. Carter's write up, and I am doing something different than he did, but seeing the diodes in his diagram, I suddenly realized that I could use diodes in my mod and then be able to ground back through the switch which will accomplish two things: I won't have to ground the doors, and the window lock switch will still work. I'll have to get some diodes and test it out to make sure there isn't any degradation in performance doing it that way, but it's worth a shot. I'll find out tomorrow.

[slcfj62]

Originally Posted by Birdstrike

Me too please. If you find some 24V relays Dieseler let me know. You'll have more options on the coast.(a little limited up here)

Make sure you get at least 30 amp relays. I measured 5 amps down and 7 amps up for the 12 Volt system. A 30 to 50 amp relay should last a long time switching that current. Also, if you get sockets with pigtails, it makes the install much easier.

[slcfj62]

Here are the relays I bought. They charged $15 for shipping which I thought was little steep, but then they knocked almost a dollar off per relay with a quantity of 8, so I guess it all comes out in the wash.

**RELAY 30 /50 AMP SPDT RELAY - WITH HARNESS*::*RELAYS AND HARNESSES*::*Car Alarm & Remote Start*::*AUTOTOYS

It's called a single pole double throw (SPDT) relay. This means it has a common and then normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC) contacts. So when the relay coil gets 12 Volts, the NO closes and the NC opens. This is the type to get.

For you diesel guys, I didn't see any 24Volt ones. You might want to check yourself, or maybe call them and see if they have something that isn't on the website.

If you get something other than what I got, you will want to make sure you get the wires connected correctly.

[Gwynley]

I knew that bulk buy of 24v relay's would come in handy! I found them on Ebay - just cost a couple of £s. I also plan to use them to install a 12v alarm (they can switch any voltage).

Might have a few spares if anyone in UK wants a couple...

[slcfj62]

So I can't find the right diodes here locally, but I found a good source over the internet. I've ordered them but will have to wait for a few days til they get here. So be patient folks, it will be worth the wait. You will be able to unplug the door switches, bring them in the house where it is nice and warm, do the modification, and go out and plug the switches back in without any further wiring modification. So be patient. You've waited this long.....

[DirtyLittleSecret]

Originally Posted by slcfj62

Yeah Yeah, so don't come pounding on my door yet. I'll do the write up Saturday morning which is my next window of available time. I thought there would be some interest in this. It's my first real chance to give back something useful. I've certainly benefitted immensely from the collective knowledge on this site. It's a wonderful resource.

Packed the rig, and will be there early Saturday morning...I like my bacon crispy, and eggs benedict style.

[Chino Cochino]

Dude! Your the man! I've playing with this issue for awhile now! Can't wait to fix my PW-PDL's

[Chino Cochino]

Oops! You're the man!

[slcfj62]

Originally Posted by DirtyLittleSecret

Packed the rig, and will be there early Saturday morning...I like my bacon crispy, and eggs benedict style.

Easy! Hey, I ordered them priority mail, call off the lynch mob!

[kidishi]

This is GREAT! Thanks so much for doing this!!! My passenger window is about to be fixed by a hammer........Looking forward to the results.

caleb

[Spook50]

Originally Posted by slcfj62

So I can't find the right diodes here locally, but I found a good source over the internet. I've ordered them but will have to wait for a few days til they get here. So be patient folks, it will be worth the wait. You will be able to unplug the door switches, bring them in the house where it is nice and warm, do the modification, and go out and plug the switches back in without any further wiring modification. So be patient. You've waited this long.....

You did still have to run extra wires into the doors to provide power, correct?

[slcfj62]

Originally Posted by Spook50

You did still have to run extra wires into the doors to provide power, correct?

Nope. The power is already there. If the diodes work, there isn't any extra wiring to be done except for the mod to the switch. If the diodes don't work, you will have to do a ground wire, but that is all. In fact, once you install the mod on one switch, you can try it on the other doors one at a time to see if it helps you. So while I wait for the diodes, I'm going to get started on the writeup for the power door locks. I'll post that this morning.

[DirtyLittleSecret]

Originally Posted by slcfj62

Nope. The power is already there. If the diodes work, there isn't any extra wiring to be done except for the mod to the switch. If the diodes don't work, you will have to do a ground wire, but that is all. In fact, once you install the mod on one switch, you can try it on the other doors one at a time to see if it helps you. So while I wait for the diodes, I'm going to get started on the writeup for the power door locks. I'll post that this morning.

Lucky for you I'm installing my Poly axles today, and the rig is resting...cant wait to see what my next mod will be!

[slcfj62]

To begin with, if you do this modification, you are responsible for the outcome. What I did worked for me. It should work for you. But if not, by attempting this mod, you are responsible for the outcome, and you agree to hold me not guilty of any wrong doing. If you have zero automotive electrical skills, I recommend you get with a buddy that does have some skills and can help, or take this to a shop you trust to make the mod.

NOTE: You should check the condition of your switches while you have the drivers door master panel out. Polish them up one last time. Once you complete the mods for the power locks and the windows, the switches should stay nice and clean without any pitting or corrosion.

That said, here are some important relay terms, and the interpretation of the Toyota wiring color code.

Single pole double throw (SPDT) relay: This is the type of relay we are using for this mod. It has a 30 Amp rating. I purchased all my relays from here (you will need two for the door locks and six for the windows):
:

http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=319

It
It came with a socket and wiring harness and looks like this:
came with a socket and wiring harness and looks like this:

[slcfj62]

It has five connections. Two are for the coil. The connections for the coil are labeled 85 and 86 and are the Brown and Blue wires respectively. The coil connections are not polarity sensitive. In other words, it doesn’t matter how you hook it up to the power supply. There is a common connection labeled 30 and is the Yellow wire. A Normally Closed (NC) contact labeled as 87a and is the Black wire, and a Normally Open (NO) contact labeled 87 which is the Red wire. If you are using a different relay, or if you are using a different harness, you will need to map your wire colors to mine. When voltage is applied to the coil, the relay changes state. This means the NC contact opens and the NO contact closes.

Here is the schematic for the relay:

[slcfj62]

My vehicle is a 1988 fj62 manufacture November 1987. I don’t know how consistent Toyota was with their wiring looms, so you will need to verify that your wires are the same colors as mine by using the Factory Service Manual (FSM). If you look at the schematic at the back of the FSM for the door locks (schematic #3 in my book) you will see the color code letters by the connections. Here is how I interpreted mine:

W—White
R—Red
B—Black
L—Blue
G—Green

When there are two colors listed, there is a colored stripe on the wire. Here is a picture from my FSM including the modification drawn in. The lock relay is on the left, unlock on the right.

[slcfj62]

Now, here is the tricky part. Those colors are only valid from where the switch plugs into the wiring loom and on into the vehicle. The wires from the connector to the switches are different colors. So, I made a map to correlate the vehicle side wires to the switch side wires.