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10-31-09, 06:35 PM
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#151 (permalink)
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Rando-kurūzā
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Loose Angle-eese
Posts: 2,622
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That's what I used, too. Actually has an etching, phosphorilizing agent in it to resist oxidation.
Don't use a primer. Works best on raw metal. But I used FLAT BLACK for that cool, hip L.A. look 
Chicks dig it when they crawl under my cruiser 
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11-01-09, 02:39 PM
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#152 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tromsø, Norway
Posts: 109
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11-20-09, 10:33 AM
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#153 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 604
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I've got some good updates coming although progress has been kind of slow due to snowboarding season.
I picked up a SROR rear bumper and will be building a tire carrier to add to it. I'm glad I don't have to build one as that would have taken another 2 months at my rate! I also have a Yakima roof basket with the bars and gutter mounts. Now I have a way of transporting bikes/boards/etc.
The rear axle is just about done. It's getting new wheel cylinders that I am picking up tonight and then will install everything over thanksgiving break, bleed the brakes, turn the rotors, button everything up and pull it out of the garage.
Nothing like a perfect drivetrain/suspension/motor on a crap body! I'll shoot some pics after work and post them up.
__________________
1998 Grand Cherokee: 4-linked, 8.8, HP30, 4.56's, locked, 36's
2004 Audi A4: Turbo, RS4 suspension, 18's, intake, sport, daily driver
1981 Toyota Landcruiser: FJ60, Restoration project, mild-wheeler
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11-20-09, 08:23 PM
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#154 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 604
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Onto the pics.
Yakima rack and gutter mounts. I also have a roof basket but it doesn't fit in the garage with it on.
Old vs. new wheel cylinders for the rear brakes.
And finally, rebuilt the rear driveshaft and had it balanced.
__________________
1998 Grand Cherokee: 4-linked, 8.8, HP30, 4.56's, locked, 36's
2004 Audi A4: Turbo, RS4 suspension, 18's, intake, sport, daily driver
1981 Toyota Landcruiser: FJ60, Restoration project, mild-wheeler
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11-20-09, 09:37 PM
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#155 (permalink)
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Rando-kurūzā
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Loose Angle-eese
Posts: 2,622
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Looks good... But hope you had the Modelo after the brake work
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11-22-09, 10:03 AM
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#156 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: N.E. GA
Posts: 15
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Hey Elliot your work looks great, just wondering how you got all that front end so clean? I didnt think I saw a sandblasting post. Was all that with a steel brush? My power steering box is all nasty along with the tir rods, I really need to clean it like you did.
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11-22-09, 08:26 PM
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#157 (permalink)
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Rum Runnin'
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Usually Upstate NY
Posts: 5,269
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__________________
Johnny C
1987 FJ60 - MoonShine - SROR Front Bumper, H55f, 2-low, SOA, 62+AAL fronts w/ Ironman rears, 36's, FF w/ 4.11's, Round Eyes, KMR's Tailgate Hatch, desmog + headers, Storage / Sleeping system, etc. -- DD w/242k
Waiting to be installed:
York 210 OBA, shocks, lots of little things....
1967 Stevens Mfg. Co M416 - almost RUST FREE!!!
Previous Rig:
1987 FJ60 - Big Red
ΦΚΤ - Fall 06
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11-22-09, 09:36 PM
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#158 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Posts: 268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jascolt
Hey Elliot your work looks great, just wondering how you got all that front end so clean? I didnt think I saw a sandblasting post. Was all that with a steel brush? My power steering box is all nasty along with the tir rods, I really need to clean it like you did.
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yeah i was wondering the same thing. i went through a thousand rags on the engine bay, my axle looks even worse as far as built up gunk . Im about to start on all that- whats your technique?
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11-22-09, 09:43 PM
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#159 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 81
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love the build up looks great, cant wait for more pics! 
__________________
87' FJ60 ROYAL BLUE 
33' BRIGESTONE A/T'S
4:11 GEARS
COSTOM BUMPER
CB
REBUILT ENGINE
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11-22-09, 10:04 PM
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#160 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 604
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I know the updates are kind of slow (wheel cylinders, u-joints, etc) but soon it will all come together for a rig that is essentially brand new! Thanks for keeping up with my build guys!
As far as cleaning the axles and frame... I spray A LOT of degreaser and go at everything with a wire brush. I get it down to the metal (usually still has paint on it) then shoot some brake parts cleaner on the item to wipe off any more residual crud. Then I wipe the entire item down in mineral spirits and when it dries I shoot it with the rust enamel. It holds up great!
I know it sounds ridiculous but I'll also be going over the tie rod with a flap disk to get out the marks from whoever aligned it last. It left some pretty nasty grooves in the tie rod. Little things like that make a nice final product in my opinion.
__________________
1998 Grand Cherokee: 4-linked, 8.8, HP30, 4.56's, locked, 36's
2004 Audi A4: Turbo, RS4 suspension, 18's, intake, sport, daily driver
1981 Toyota Landcruiser: FJ60, Restoration project, mild-wheeler
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11-23-09, 02:10 AM
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#161 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 865
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Dude that driveshaft is cleannnn. I want one haha. My driveshaft has been removed twice and I never did any work on it. I just know it needs to be bolted on to drive haha.
I hope that Power Steering fluid is for your cherokee 
(Even though it probably is)
__________________
1984 FJ60, 174 Thousand Miles, OME, Desmog, Weber 38, SOR Header, BFG A/T'S on Eagle 058's
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Spike Strip
that took 2 years of my life and pissed off the 
60 TDIC 81'
Moonshine
