[chicago]

Originally Posted by Dirtgypsy

54mm hub socket

I have this tool that I use for the c-clips. it may not be the "best" per se but it works well for many applications:

Detail Page for 44900 Lock Ring Pliers - Lisle Corporation


just FYI the wheel bearings front and rear are the same for the FF and stock front. Also the rear wheel seal can be found at Car Quest Auto Parts very nice quality and great price.

good luck.


clint

OOOOOO, those are NICE!

Chicago

[Randy88FJ62]

Disassembling spare set of axles tonight and I was wondering if I can take the 3rd member out first to get rid of a lot of the weight off the jack stands? Or, do I have to move the shafts out a bit first to remove the 3rd member. I have all the tools, now it's just time and lots of elbow grease.

[GLTHFJ60]

Gotta remove the axleshafts to be able to remove the thirds on either the front or rear axle.

[Cruiserdrew]

You have to pull the shafts first.

Open the cover

Pull the pin that holds the pinion shaft-insert the ARB tool that looks like an allen wrench with threads and pull out the inner part of the pin.

Rotate the assembly slightly and line up the pinion shaft so it slides out toward you.

Carefully slide it out and catch the inner retainer block/ring

Push 1 axle shaft in and carefully remove the c-clip (don't drop it in or you have to fish it out later)

Do the same on the other side

Pull the axle shafts all the way out

At this point I would re-assemble the diff hand tight just so you don't loose any of the bits or forget how they go in. (I lost the heavy ring that goes with the retainer block once)

Now you are ready to pull the differential.

[Randy88FJ62]

Thanks. Going to Sears to order brass drift set, seal puller, and 10mm flare wrench after work. I have almost everything else. It's amazing how time consuming this stuff is but definitely worth it. I guess the more times you do it the quicker you get.

[Randy88FJ62]

I attempted to tear down the entire front axle yesterday afternoon. I got the pass side knuckle assy disassembled and the birfield is pretty thrashed. This birfield is the stronger one, I forget the name. How much is it to buy replacements and who sells them again? I want to say (bobby longfields?) but I want to be sure. All I know is that it’s gonna be more coin to get these axles in like new shape.

I ran into a problem on the driver’s side. The bottom brake caliper bolt is inaccessible. The calipers are different, they say SSBC on the sides of them and they are bigger than stock ones. The caliper body actually blocks me from getting a socket or wrench around the actual bolt. How the F**k do I get the bolt out without wrecking the thread in the knuckle housing? Any ideas on this one? I will be taking pictures after work today to show my current debacle. Anyone have more information on these SSBC brakes? I want to get replacement pads for them.

Once I get both inner axles out and knuckles apart does the 3rd member just pull straight out? For reference there is an ARB locker in there.

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

I attempted to tear down the entire front axle yesterday afternoon. I got the pass side knuckle assy disassembled and the birfield is pretty thrashed. This birfield is the stronger one, I forget the name. How much is it to buy replacements and who sells them again? I want to say (bobby longfields?) but I want to be sure. All I know is that it’s gonna be more coin to get these axles in like new shape.

I ran into a problem on the driver’s side. The bottom brake caliper bolt is inaccessible. The calipers are different, they say SSBC on the sides of them and they are bigger than stock ones. The caliper body actually blocks me from getting a socket or wrench around the actual bolt. How the F**k do I get the bolt out without wrecking the thread in the knuckle housing? Any ideas on this one? I will be taking pictures after work today to show my current debacle. Anyone have more information on these SSBC brakes? I want to get replacement pads for them.

Once I get both inner axles out and knuckles apart does the 3rd member just pull straight out? For reference there is an ARB locker in there.

Wow-your deal of the century is turning into a nightmare.

Longfields are what you want. If you have $$, get the "super set" of 30 spline longs-the super set implies it comes with the inner axles as well.

I have no idea what calipers you have. Just use the one on your existing truck.

The third member does just pull out ones you pull the inner axles. It can be stuck on really tight though.

Post up pics of the birf and why it is "trashed".

GL

[Randy88FJ62]

I will post pics later today. Trust me, the birfield is trashed... I don't see it as a nightmate yet. It's just money and I end up getting to learn how to work on everything which will be beneficial for trail repairs.\

The oversize bolt head on the brake caliper is my main problem now.

How do I get the inner shaft off the birfield? I got the c-clip off, do I just pull harder? I've seen people whack these around but I thought that was just to get the c-clip off. Since I have that already off I assume it should come away clean?

[Dirtgypsy]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

I attempted to tear down the entire front axle yesterday afternoon. I got the pass side knuckle assy disassembled and the birfield is pretty thrashed. This birfield is the stronger one, I forget the name. How much is it to buy replacements and who sells them again? I want to say (bobby longfields?) but I want to be sure. All I know is that it’s gonna be more coin to get these axles in like new shape.

I ran into a problem on the driver’s side. The bottom brake caliper bolt is inaccessible. The calipers are different, they say SSBC on the sides of them and they are bigger than stock ones. The caliper body actually blocks me from getting a socket or wrench around the actual bolt. How the F**k do I get the bolt out without wrecking the thread in the knuckle housing? Any ideas on this one? I will be taking pictures after work today to show my current debacle. Anyone have more information on these SSBC brakes? I want to get replacement pads for them.

Once I get both inner axles out and knuckles apart does the 3rd member just pull straight out? For reference there is an ARB locker in there.

If the birf is indeed the "upgraded one" then look for a couple of things first is the "longfeild" name stamped in the flat part of the birf itself:


the other thing to look for is the overall size. I believe that the chromo's are a bit larger than stock.

If it is a longfeild then you may be able to get a replacment for free or a very reasonable price as they have one of the industries best warranties. just call them. otherwise they are $630 shipped.

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

I will post pics later today. Trust me, the birfield is trashed... I don't see it as a nightmate yet. It's just money and I end up getting to learn how to work on everything which will be beneficial for trail repairs.\

The oversize bolt head on the brake caliper is my main problem now.

How do I get the inner shaft off the birfield? I got the c-clip off, do I just pull harder? I've seen people whack these around but I thought that was just to get the c-clip off. Since I have that already off I assume it should come away clean?

like cruiserdrew said on the SSBC (stainless steel brake corp) caliper just ace it and go back to stock. Can you drill out the bolt and get an easy out on it?

As far as the Birf removal:

here is a good tech article

Axle overhaul, Part 3

I don't think it will just fall apart. I am sure you still need some motivation to get it off. Please post some pics of where you are at and the issues.

Keep plugging a way at it and stay positive. It can be frustrating but will be well worth it in the end!

clint

[Dirtgypsy]

Also I didn't hear from you and assume you were busy with your build so here is the part #'s for the towers:

E5TZ*18183*A

I paid like $14 Ea. with a small discount at the local dealer. Funny thing is the salesman was "You building a Jeep or something?" I had a good laugh.

clint

[Randy88FJ62]

I found the longfield website this morning and after looking at the real ones I think mine are standard birfs so I might upgrade to the longfields. The P.O. says that the inner shafts are the stronger chromo replacements but I haven’t figured out how to I.D. them yet. For all I know I’m getting smoke blown up my you know what.

The knuckle was pretty torn up inside with gouging on the top and bottom where the bearings meet the bowl. If the bearings were eaten up on the top and bottom of the knuckle does that tell me something I should be aware of like improper alignment which may affect seal and bearing longevity? Maybe I need the SST to make sure the shims are doing their job correctly?

I talked to a guy at work here today and he said I should buy an extra socket and turn it down a little to get it to fit between the caliper housing. I’m going to try that before doing anything more destructive like welding a bolt to it to get it out. Worst situation is a broken socket and wasted time.

Why should I be scratching the SSBC calipers? They are billet aluminum so they should dissipate heat better, they have bigger area pistons and the billet aluminum shouldn’t flex as much as cast steel so there should be less inconsistency when braking which should provide better stopping power. My stock axle which is currently on my truck needs a new rotor since my caliper came loose on my last trip to death valley and pitted the crap out of it. Either way I need to buy new brake components.

The rear axle has a disk brake conversion so I’m guessing that my LSPV won’t be needed since the P.O. parts truck didn’t use one with the 4 wheel disk brake setup. Not sure if my master cylinder size is correct to handle all four disks. Something else to consider as my SOA moves like a snail.

I will post pics of my status today in a few hours so people can help evaluate my status and point me in the right direction. Taking apart axles is fun and I’m glad I’m doing this.

If anyone wants to lend me the SST knuckle tool in a few weeks that would be awesome so I can make sure everything is assembled per spec.

[Randy88FJ62]

Is there a proper way to get the spring clip off without smacking the inner axle / birfield assembly in a pipe? Anyone have a picture or schematic of what this assembly looks like without all the grease showing the spring clip and CV assembly?

[Dirtgypsy]

If the issue with the brakes are that you have to modify it or modify tools to get it to work then why keep it? Not sure about you or anyone else but I run stock brakes front and rear with upgraded rotors and I have no problems locking up tires when I mash on them. Other bonus is not having to figure out what caliper I have to buy new pads, hardware etc.. especially in the middle of no where.

Don't get me wrong SSBC stuff is well built and definately brings the bling factor but we are just trying to offer suggestions to help in your time of frustration. I know that a SOA is overwhelming enough as it is and then throw in mods someone else did and I would go crazy.

Can't help you on the LSPV but I think I read somewhere that it will need to be modded because of the lift. The master will need to be replaced for the upgraded brakes. Look up Tundra master cyl and you have a bolt in upgrade.

Can't wait to see the pics!

Clint

[Randy88FJ62]

I found out that the SSBC take OEM landcruiser pads so the only difference is the rotors which makes it a price issue as rotors need to be replaced every once in awhile.

If I keep the rear drum brakes I will modify the LSPV bracket and run it accordingly. If I go with the rear disk brakes I am curious who has done that and if they used an LSPV valve or difference master cylinder as stated. I have heard people using T100 master cylinders. You're the first to mention Tundras but that makes sense as well.

I will try and get pictures up by 5:30pm.

[ntsqd]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

snipped......

Why should I be scratching the SSBC calipers? They are billet aluminum so they should dissipate heat better, they have bigger area pistons and the billet aluminum shouldn’t flex as much as cast steel so there should be less inconsistency when braking which should provide better stopping power.

Aluminum flexes more than steel.
E(steels) = 29,700 psi
E(6061) = 10,000 psi
E(A356-T6) = 10,500 psi

It is possible to design around this deficiency of aluminum, but only a volumetric displacement test can tell for sure if the design succeeded. An educated eyeball might be able to make a guess, but I wouldn't bet for or against the results.

Until you know what the front calipers are going to be I'd hold off on thoughts of changing out the master. I'd first try what you've got and see how it well it works for you. Then if the master doesn't work like you want look into changing it.

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

For all I know I’m getting smoke blown up my you know what.

Its called an "ass"

[Dirtgypsy]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

I found out that the SSBC take OEM landcruiser pads so the only difference is the rotors which makes it a price issue as rotors need to be replaced every once in awhile.

If I keep the rear drum brakes I will modify the LSPV bracket and run it accordingly. If I go with the rear disk brakes I am curious who has done that and if they used an LSPV valve or difference master cylinder as stated. I have heard people using T100 master cylinders. You're the first to mention Tundras but that makes sense as well.

I will try and get pictures up by 5:30pm.

sorry you are right it is the T100 master not the tundra

Clint

[Randy88FJ62]

Rear axle disassembled


The SOB caliper that was impossible to get off due to an oversize hex head.


As you can see I prevailed with barbarian tactics


questionable birfield



comparison


long side looks good


short side has some gouges


good side vs bad side bearings


two sets of free FJ60 springs compliments of spikestrip and NLXTACY.


the teardown


not sure how to get these apart without whacking them yet:


front ARB diff looks good compared to the rear

rear


sliders waiting to go on after SOA


my humble workshop


sexiness waiting for its "lift"

[ntsqd]

What I have read of doing (in mini-truck circles), but have never actually done is to use a piece of tube or pipe that fits over the axle shaft and supports the inner race of the Birf. Slide the axle down into the tube/pipe and holding the tube/pipe in one hand and the stub of the Birf in the other whack the assembly against a piece of wood laying on the ground. Keep the web of your hand out of the intersection of the Birf and the tube/pipe. That hurts like a sumbeach!!!!

[Dirtgypsy]

Wow those birfs are toast!

Looks like you might be able to run an allen bolt on there instead of the hex head?

Feels good to get it aapart doesn't it!

Keep it up you are getting closer!

Clint

[Randy88FJ62]

you mean one birfield is toast. Not both right?!

[Dirtgypsy]

Yes sorry just the one.

Have you picked up the brackets and such for the SOA portion?

I have some shock mounts that came with the "axle kits" just was going to bounce some stuff off of you on mounts.

Thanks

clint

[Scotty]

To remove the birf from the shaft:

Take a piece of 1.75" or similar tubing. Then insert the inner shaft into it and drop it on a piece of wood.

[Randy88FJ62]

Originally Posted by Scotty

To remove the birf from the shaft:

Take a piece of 1.75" or similar tubing. Then insert the inner shaft into it and drop it on a piece of wood.

Does it wreck the spring loaded clip in there? I'm assuming that's the only way?

Dirtgypsy,
For shock mounts I plan on using the knuckle gussets from MC and ford towers in front. Not sure what I'm using for the back spring perch shock mounts yet. Probably stock plates turned upside down?

[Randy88FJ62]

Now that I have the axles apart and completely disassembled I plan on doing the following:

Sending out diffs for regearing
Picking up a front axle rebuild kit from Mark’s offroad
Ordering Ruff Stuff perches and Anti-wrap bar kit
Ordering Marlin’s tie rod’s and 80 series pittman arm
Ordering Ford shock towers per Dirtgypsy’s P/N referral

Haven’t figured out what brake lines / connections to use yet
Haven’t looked into trany crossmember notching yet

What prep can I do to the axle housings while waiting for the regear and parts? Other than trim off old perches. I don’t want to paint it yet as I need to weld perches and do CnT.

My point is I want to move forward and I have next week empty other than ordering parts.

[boots4]

Not exciting but you can always clean stuff up so the paint sticks when you do spray it.

You could also separate your spring packs and repaint them. That would be good anyways to see if any of the leafs are broken.

You could grind off the old shock towers up front.

You could work on another smaller project you want to do to your cruiser while you wait.

You could get scab plates ready for your sliders

[Randy88FJ62]

Good idea on the springs. That should keep me busy.

[NLXTACY]

Its good to finally see it coming along slow poke

[Randy88FJ62]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

Its good to finally see it coming along slow poke

You too. Better get sliders on your 60 soon or we can weld you up some because the eastern sierra trails done in the summer are not forgiving.

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

You too. Better get sliders on your 60 soon or we can weld you up some because the eastern sierra trails done in the summer are not forgiving.

Yeah I've heard horror stories