[Dirtgypsy]

as far as I know you do not add anything but the AAL's. I would say if you are dead set on adding leafs because of concern for added weight then I would add just the long leaf just below the military wrap or take the military wrap and cut the eyes and add those.

chicago has a good write up and pics.??

If they don't work then use at least 4 big "c" clamps and take your time saparating the packs as they have a tendency to unload and break shins and ankles.

clint

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Dirtgypsy

If they don't work then use at least 4 big "c" clamps and take your time saparating the packs as they have a tendency to unload and break shins and ankles.

clint

No they don't. Take the spring out of the truck, bend open the keepers (that's a bit of work), unscrew the center pin, and disassemble the pack. You will need new pins when it goes back together, and I like the 7/16 pins from Napa, which means you have to slightly drill out the centering hole. Napa carries 3/8 pins which also work. You can also use a 3/8 or 7/16 button head bolt. I've taken at least 16 spring packs apart and never had one "unload". Don't worry about it. The clamps can be useful when re-assembling.

On the AAl, use the longest one you can find-best if it goes eye to eye. If you have spare spring packs from the donor truck, use the leaf with the military wrap, and cut off the wrap at the base of it's curve. That makes a perfect AAL with the hole in the right place. If you look at my pics, you can see I did that on all the springs.

[Randy88FJ62]

When I order the drag link and tie rod. How do I know what lengths to order? I will be using an Fj80 pittman arm.

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

When I order the drag link and tie rod. How do I know what lengths to order? I will be using an Fj80 pittman arm.

Pretty sure with the style of arms you have that it's a known quantity. I know 4x4Labs keeps them written down in a file. So you tell them 60 series, Marlin/Allpro arms and they can do the rest. I know on mine we were off a bit because the steering arms are different due to the 6 stud business.

I assume you'll be using Marlin because of the style arms you have-call him and see if they have the lengths already.

The 60 vs 80 Pittman doesn't make enough length difference to matter. You will need to have a new taper cut I think. Even though the arms are sized for 80 series tie rod ends, the hole in the end of the Pittman is for 80 series drag link ends, and if I remember, on the 80 series the tierod ends have a different taper from the drag link ends, and the high steer kits use all tie rod ends. Not certain so ask Marlin or Luke or whoever.

[Randy88FJ62]

The hi-steer came with 80 series rod ends so other than the steering lengths I don't think I need to do anything there.

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

The hi-steer came with 80 series rod ends so other than the steering lengths I don't think I need to do anything there.

I understand that, what I'm saying is that the tie rod ends are different from the drag link ends and the hy-steering is set up with all (4) tie rod ends. Unfortunately, the Pittman is normally attached to the drag link and so the taper is for the drag link ends, and won't fit the tie rod ends. I may be wrong about that, but that is what I remember when I had the 80 series front end apart.

In the end, do a test fit and see for yourself, but be prepared for the idea of cutting a new taper. With the correct reamer it's a 2 minute job.

[Dynosoar]

Randy, If you need any help let me know I will be off work for a few weeks starting Monday.

Dynosoar

[Randy88FJ62]

I am diassembling the parts rig this saturday. It's located at my Dad's shop (Sheldon and Glenoaks) in Sun Valley. let me know if you want to come.

[chicago]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

I am diassembling the parts rig this saturday. .

:bounce2 :

chicago

[Randy88FJ62]

Georg has a stock Fj60 FF axle and is willing to trade for my stock Fj62 front axle... Looks like I might take the trade. One more upgrade that I didn't need but will welcome into my rig.

[Randy88FJ62]

Any cons to a stock FF rear?

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

Any cons to a stock FF rear?

The only one I can think of, is that it is difficult to get high strength axles for it. The standard semi-float has good availability through Poly Performance. It is also difficult to get spares in general, and since you'll have a unique beast, you'll need to score some spares up front. I think SOR has them.

The other con to the FF is that you have to service the wheel bearings regularly, just like the front. In a semi-float, the bearings are lubed by the differential oil.

[Randy88FJ62]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

The only one I can think of, is that it is difficult to get high strength axles for it. The standard semi-float has good availability through Poly Performance. It is also difficult to get spares in general, and since you'll have a unique beast, you'll need to score some spares up front. I think SOR has them.

The other con to the FF is that you have to service the wheel bearings regularly, just like the front. In a semi-float, the bearings are lubed by the differential oil.

Which wheel bearings in the front and rear? I'm new and I need to play catch up on these things. When should the maintinence be done, how many miles per change?

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

Which wheel bearings in the front and rear? I'm new and I need to play catch up on these things. When should the maintinence be done, how many miles per change?

Every 30k at a minimum. There is an inboard and an outboard bearing ride on a spindle. Fresh grease and a new seal every 30k keeps them happy. In a rear FF, it's exactly the same arrangement as a front, but the adjuster nuts are totally different.

At your miles, it's probably time to replace the bearings when you do the rebuild. The best deal is the Timkins at AutoZone, or at least it used to be. Marlin also has a good price on the Koyo bearings.

[GLTHFJ60]

I've also heard of problems with the FF axle shafts shearing the studs on the outside of the hub before the shaft itself breaks. I've never seen a FF axle shaft break before, that is on the forum.

Higher strength studs or larger dowels help, I believe. I admit that I've only read about this on the forum because I have yet to install my FF rear.

[Randy88FJ62]

Thanks for the FF info.

Started disassembling the parts rig this past weekend. Haven't taken the springs or axles off yet. most of the wiring and extra crap was taken off. Scored 4 good aux lights the guy had attached under the truck for light spotting on the rocks. I might use them for the same and use one of them for a backup light. All the wiring, switch, and relays were already there. Chairs came off the tub as well. If anyone needs some 62 chairs with grey/blue interior let me know. They're a little ragged, I'll pretty much give them away.

[Randy88FJ62]

I will be tearing down axles soon. What tools do I need other than basic sockets and wrenches? Any great threads that I can review as well?

[chicago]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

I will be tearing down axles soon. What tools do I need other than basic sockets and wrenches? Any great threads that I can review as well?

BIG A$$ socket for the spindle nuts
Brass drifts (varous sizes)
GLOVES
RAGS
Dead blow hammer
good c clip remover
BEER!

Chicago

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by chicago

good c clip remover


Chicago

This is very important and seldom stated. The right C clip tool makes this a 2 second task. The wrong one and it will take all afternoon and you'll screw something up!

How about some pics?

[Randy88FJ62]

Unfortunately this tear down will be done at my Dad's shop which is 30 minutes away from my house. Neighbors would freak out if I did it at home. Plus, the shop is wired up for 240 (welding.)

Which c-clip tool is the correct one?
Which big a$$ socket do I need?

[Dirtgypsy]

54mm hub socket

I have this tool that I use for the c-clips. it may not be the "best" per se but it works well for many applications:

Detail Page for 44900 Lock Ring Pliers - Lisle Corporation


just FYI the wheel bearings front and rear are the same for the FF and stock front. Also the rear wheel seal can be found at Car Quest Auto Parts very nice quality and great price.

good luck.


clint

[Randy88FJ62]

I'm sure the 54mm socket is expensive. Is this socket reused when switching broken axle shafts on the trail? Just gaging whether I should buy it or borrow one.

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

I'm sure the 54mm socket is expensive. Is this socket reused when switching broken axle shafts on the trail? Just gaging whether I should buy it or borrow one.

If you keep messing with Land Cruisers, you will need this socket. You can get a 2 1/8 at sears, or a real 54mm from Cruiserdan.

[Randy88FJ62]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

If you keep messing with Land Cruisers, you will need this socket. You can get a 2 1/8 at sears, or a real 54mm from Cruiserdan.

That's what I needed to know. I'll order one today.

[Randy88FJ62]

Sears has a 2 1/8 socket for $27 but has the 54 mm socket for lots more $$$$ wtf?!

I'm also assuming that a 6 pt socket is better than a 12 pt for this application. Correct?

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

Sears has a 2 1/8 socket for $27 but has the 54 mm socket for lots more $$$$ wtf?!

I'm also assuming that a 6 pt socket is better than a 12 pt for this application. Correct?

It doesn't really matter in these big sizes. I personally like the Sears 2 1/8. It's 3/4 drive though, so you also need a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter. It's nice and heavy feeling, and fit perfectly down into the hub to engage the spindle nut.

The OEM tool from Toyota is about $25 and is 1/2 drive. It's made by OTC isf that helps you locate one. I got one from Cruiserdan a year or two ago for my trail bag. The socket sold by SOR is really thin wall crap so avoid that one. It bends out of shape after 1 or 2 uses.

[Randy88FJ62]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

It doesn't really matter in these big sizes. I personally like the Sears 2 1/8. It's 3/4 drive though, so you also need a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter. It's nice and heavy feeling, and fit perfectly down into the hub to engage the spindle nut.

The OEM tool from Toyota is about $25 and is 1/2 drive. It's made by OTC isf that helps you locate one. I got one from Cruiserdan a year or two ago for my trail bag. The socket sold by SOR is really thin wall crap so avoid that one. It bends out of shape after 1 or 2 uses.

CDan does not have any in stock. So I stuck sourcing it at Sears. Guess I'll grab the 2 1/8 then.

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

CDan does not have any in stock. So I stuck sourcing it at Sears. Guess I'll grab the 2 1/8 then.

How about Slee?

Slee - Drivetrain - Drive Shafts

[Randy88FJ62]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

How about Slee?

Slee - Drivetrain - Drive Shafts

Good find. I'll give him a call.

[chicago]

FWIW...
I have the 2 1/8 in socket form Sears, and its worked fine. However, that slee socket looks to be a pretty good deal.
I DO carry it in my tool bag with me in the rig.
I got mine for 35 bucks here in Reno and I gasped at that price, but its worth it.
I didnt recall the size, so I posted my generic "Big A$$" socket knowing that someone knew it.
Didnt wanna go diggin through my tool bag at just that moment.

Lazy bastard!

Chicago