[chicago]

Youre gonna LOVE IT!

Chicago

[Randy88FJ62]

Here are a few pictures of what I bought. I initially went after just the axles because of the rear disk conversion and installed arbs but my addiction got the best of me and I bought the whole rig for cheap because it has a ’89 3FE drivetrain in it which means I now have a whole extra drivetrain to either rebuild or store for insurance in case I blow anything I am currently running.

On with the Pics!

Here’s what I bought to part into my rig.


ARB compressor (includes wiring harness, switches, and everything.)


This is a shoddy welded steering arm which will not be reused. What’s its appropriate name and what’s the best replacement?


P.O. put on two shoddy traction arms, one busted off and here’s the other one. Again, this will not be reused. A proper Ruff Stuff kit will be used.


FJ40 tub body damage. Anyone want a tub cheap?


Dash Stickers.


FJ40 Dash with FJ62 gauges.


Trailer hitch receiver tube front driveshaft. Probably will keep this as a trail spare. I like to use my 4wd at high speeds and this just won’t do. I could be convinced to sell cheap if someone really wants it.


Rear GM disc brake conversion. TSM I believe is what it is called?


This is the rear driveshaft I will transfer over to my soon to be SOA rig. Can someone confirm it’s a DC shaft? I am unfamiliar with a double U-Joint driveshaft. Not what I consider a conventional CV shaft.


I can take more pictures of requested things.

Your input on my find?

[zuluzeugma]

For confirmation:

The axles under this 40 were from a 62 also?

Yes, that is a DC joint

[Randy88FJ62]

Originally Posted by zuluzeugma

For confirmation:

The axles under this 40 were from a 62 also?

Yes, that is a DC joint

Yes, the frame, drivetrain, and axles were from an 89 Fj62. An FJ40 tub was then put on top of it.
-Randy

[zuluzeugma]

Good deal... Dude, your set man...

Now, you should give me the 3FE. I need it more than you!

[Randy88FJ62]

Originally Posted by zuluzeugma

Good deal... Dude, your set man...

Now, you should give me the 3FE. I need it more than you!

Speaking of extra parts. I bought Ducattiman's A440F when he put in an H55. Plus I now have this whole drivetrain. I now have two spare tranys.

[Cruiserdrew]

That's a cobbed together mess. Glad you'll give it a better home. That Pittman arm is an accident waiting to happen. If you'll glance at my SOA thread, you'll see a cool Pittman arm solution that maximizes your clearance. You need all new steering linkage, that stuff there is just not usable. I can HIGHLY recommend the tie rod and drag link from 4x4Labs.

What is being used for steering arms? Can you post a pic of the knuckle?

Based on what I'm seeing, the axles look good, the ARBs are a real plus and the rear driveshaft looks custom and expensive. It is double cardan as mentioned. A very good deal at what you paid. Congrats.

When you pull out the diffs, have someone who knows ARBs like Mark, go through them and replace the input o-rings and generally check their function and the pattern on the ring gear. Hopefully these were done professionally and not by the guy who built that rig.

Given the butchery of the previous build, I would consider cutting off the perches and doing your own. Really, that is an unsafe redneck mess and I would make a fresh start.

That e-brake connection looks funky at best.

I would like the fuel tank with pump and sender assuming it's from an FJ62. Is it available?

Thanks.

[Randy88FJ62]

I agree with you on the workmanship. It's a clodded mess. Fortunately he had the gears done preofessionally. I forget who but he didn't touch them. When I regear i will have the o-rings replaced. Mark also mentioned that and I agree with you both. New perches will definitely be done. I may even use my stock axle and rebuild the whole front end. We shall see.

My goal is a safe SOA that can get me to the trail and cruise at highway speeds. I will pm you about the tank, it is available.

Mark has dibbs on all 40 stuff if he wants it then it's getting parted. The 62 drivetrain may be parted. depends if it's worth it or not. I might keep it for insurance in storage.

[Randy88FJ62]

Where is the cheapest place to get an 80's pittman arm? I just went through your thread and post on this Drew and it looks like a good substitute.

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

Where is the cheapest place to get an 80's pittman arm? I just went through your thread and post on this Drew and it looks like a good substitute.

Probably a junk yard. They are available new as well.

If you want an FJ60 Pittman arm bored for 1 ton GM ends, I'll send it down to you. That at least gets you mobile while you look for an 80 series Pittman, assuming you use the GM 1 ton stuff. If you use 80 series ends, you best bet might be the Pittman arm from Marlin, that has a little less drop than FJ60/62 and comes bored for the 80 tie rod end. I think just the Pittman is about $75 or so.

Got your PM on the fuel tank. great, I want it, not in a hurry. (Looking at 2FE in the FJ60 and that would be the easiest way to get a good fuel pump, and better than a frame rail mounted pump.

Post a pic of the knuckle/steering arm set up. That's kind of critical to your operation here!

[Randy88FJ62]

ok, I will get pics of the knuckles tomorrow.

[Randy88FJ62]

More pics for clarification:

[zuluzeugma]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

More pics for clarification:

Those look like standard All-Pro High-Steer arms to me.

[Randy88FJ62]

They are. Hy-Steer was included with the axle purchase as stated on the first post.

[Cruiserdrew]

I spent some more time looking at your pics. Every single thing on the original truck is done poorly! In the rear, i recommend you use your existing rear axle. The perches on the new one are too short, and the e-brake is not done well. I would use your existing brakes (the drums work fine), and later, after it's all up and driving, take on the disc brake swap as a separate project. You need to weld perches anyway, and on your existing axle it will be easier and you know you will have a working e-brake. Remember that virtually every organized run with a tech inspection requires a working emergency brake.

The high steer arms are probably usable. That saves you a bit of cash right there, but have someone familiar with that set up make sure they are not the cast arms that Marlin talks about Marlin Crawler
I am not familiar with All Pro's older stuff and can't comment. Their new stuff looks bomber.


The drag link and tie rod do not look usable at all. Toss and get new. Don't mess with questionable steering components.

On the front axle, you need to start over. New perches, new shock mounts, new brake line mounts, knuckle rebuild all of it. Do a cut and turn. Use the diff with arb and the inner axles/longfields. Use whichever housing is cleaner. I would cut off all the old work by the previous owner. It just is poorly executed and unworthy of a nice build up.

This would be a good time for 6 stud knuckles. At least consider it.

The shocks are too short, you'll want new ones. A good combo is Rancho RS99012 in the front, and Rancho RS99112 in the rear. If you have any $ left over, maybe Billsteins instead of Ranchos and share the part #s you go with. I want to do that!

[chicago]

Yeah...What a mess!
Good you scored some other cool gear outta that pile though.

Im frickin excited for you dude.

Chicago

[Randy88FJ62]

The guy who built it did it all from scratch in 3 weeks. It's not quality work as you can see. The worst part to me was the sad attempt to use old steering linkages as a traction bar. I agree that a fresh rebuild would be safe and proper.

How long does it take to tear an axle down and rebuild the components into my existing housing? Roughly.

[zuluzeugma]

If you've done it before, I few hours. Your first time - a weekend Its really not that bad... But it will take you longer the first time. If you're going to ditch those steering arms for 6-stud knuckles, I have first dibs.

[Randy88FJ62]

The six stud knuckles are awesome but there is some point where I have to eventually draw the line. I can't sink my savings into this.

After the build I will see what I want to keep off the second set of axles as spares and what i am going to sell. For now I'm concentrating on a parts list so I can order soon.

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

How long does it take to tear an axle down and rebuild the components into my existing housing? Roughly.

A few hours. That's the least of it. You have to tear it all down anyway to do a cut and turn, so no big deal. You have to replace the axle seals after you reweld the knuckle as the welding heat will probably damage the seal which is right there. Go back and read Chicago's build and all the trials he went through.

Here is an order of attack:

Bare front axle housing-really bare-cleaned of all perches, stops, brackets, brake lines etc Pull out diff to make it easier to handle

Set under the truck with unwelded perches-experiment and choose pinion angle. The PS perch will have to be creatively cut to fit arround the upper part of the differential

Weld perches--This is fairly critical to get right as it freezes your pinion angle forever

Mount axle on springs, look at caster angle.

Cut and turn to set caster angle-weld up the "cut"

Rebuild knuckle on the axle housing

With knuckle in place(so you know where the stops go), weld in steering stops

Build on the rest of the axle components-inners, hubs, lockouts etc

Weld on the brake line mounts and shock mounts

Final assembly

That should keep you busy a few weeks!




What do you plan to use for springs? If stock, beef them up with some of the extra leaves you got on the parts truck.


Post up the step by step pics-I got so wrapped up in mine, I basically forgot to get the pics.

[Randy88FJ62]

Here is my list so far. I need help with some of the specifics.
Things I need to Order:
Replace ARB O-Rings in Diffs when regearing to 4.88’s
CnT front axle
Ruff Stuff Spring Perches
Front Shock Hoops for longer shocks
Marlin’s Knuckle Gussets w/ shock mounts
80’s Series Pittman Arm
Replace Drag Link and Tie Rod
Marlin C Inner Axle Seals
Traction Bar
Notch Trany Crossmember
New poly spring bushings
Differential Gaskets
Brake Lines / Mounts

I need specifics on the drag link and tie rod for a SOA rig. Cheap place for brake lines? Are there any specific parts for brake mounts or is that just steel, common sense and welding? When redoing the front axle what else do i need other than the knuckle seals? Do I need a full rebuild kit and where is it best ordered from?

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

Here is my list so far. I need help with some of the specifics.
Things I need to Order:
Replace ARB O-Rings in Diffs when regearing to 4.88’s
CnT front axle
Ruff Stuff Spring Perches
Front Shock Hoops for longer shocks
Marlin’s Knuckle Gussets w/ shock mounts
80’s Series Pittman Arm
Replace Drag Link and Tie Rod
Marlin C Inner Axle Seals
Traction Bar
Notch Trany Crossmember
New poly spring bushings
Differential Gaskets
Brake Lines / Mounts

I need specifics on the drag link and tie rod for a SOA rig. Cheap place for brake lines? Are there any specific parts for brake mounts or is that just steel, common sense and welding? When redoing the front axle what else do i need other than the knuckle seals? Do I need a full rebuild kit and where is it best ordered from?

You need a full knuckle kit-just get one from Marlin or Mudrak or Cruiseroutfitters or Mark's or.......

You don't need the gussets unless you want them.

Don't preorder too much stuff. The problem is, you don't know what you really need, until you need it. Much of what you are doing requires custom parts. Making the brakelines for instance, is basically the last step. The traction bar is also the last step. You will spend more than you think. Focus on doing it right, not cheap. Ford towers will work well and that may be the place to save a few $$, but all the cool kids want hoops.

It would be smart to have the steering linkage on hand, so you can put it together and still move the truck around. You need to decide 80 ends or 1 ton ends before you start. It looks like the histeer arms are built for 80 ends, so that's a good place to start.

You need a plan to mount the rear shocks, and you need the shocks. The best way is to do your build and then flex and measure for opend and closed measurements. Then pick appropriate shocks. The ones I listed though, will work. Chicago also went through his measurments in the build thread that he did.

I may be able to source an 80 Pittman, I'll let you know.

Good luck, I can't wait to see this get off the ground(literally).

[pismojim]

Marlin has 1.25" X .250" DOM tubing tie rod/relay rod made to your custom length ready for (1-Ton) 80 Series rod ends.

[landcruisnman]

Did you use stock heighth springs on your Spring over? I want to do it on my 55 and was wondering if I needed to cut and turn my axle.
Pat
Carlsbad,CA

[Randy88FJ62]

I am still collecting parts. I have not done it yet. I plan on adding a leaf in the packs. Some have left stock springs for more flex at the cost of wearng out springs prematurely.

[chicago]

Ill say that the traction bar took A LOT more effort to build than I thought it would, primarily due to the x member location.
As Cdrew mentioned...dont get yourself too hung up on the time in which youre doing your build, or bogged down by the amount of things that need to get done. It really is more important to focus on the quality and take your time. Not that you wouldnt, but....
I left the traction bar project for months.
Also, now is a really good time to get everything cleaned and purdy and painted.
Marlin is a good "one stop shop" for the tie rod/ drag link, Rode ends, pittman arm, knuckle kit (if theyre in stock), and of course the HD seals.
Ford towers are nice, and theyre cheap...just to keep in mind to save some $$$

Looking forward to the build!

Chicago

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by chicago

Looking forward to the build!

Chicago

Me too, when does it start?

Expecting daily photo updates.

Before it starts you can do the grunt work of cleaning up the axles, and figuring out the spring packs. That keeps things from bogging down when the heavy work starts. Chicago's thread is a good example of how the updates get posted.

[Mikesta]

Just posting to tag along. Looking forward to the progress!

[Randy88FJ62]

I will be diassebling the parts rig next weekend. This weekend is Death Valley trip to the Saline Hot Springs.

[Randy88FJ62]

When doing AAL's for a pring over how many stock leaves do people add? I will be carrying a lot of weight (ARB w/ winch in front and 3 gas cans and spare tire on the rear.) Any good threads on AAL process of stripping down the leaves and assembling them? I know there are a few things involved.