do a search my friend. several threads about fixing da dreaded dead horn.
__________________ Reasons why a Garage is Next: 84 tan FJ60: 205k, BDS lift, tow hitch. Rowlands panels tbi, Yakima bars w/sliders as needed 98 Volvo V70XC w/Thule bars n box: lean green Dober tripping machine
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85 Honda Accord: 120k, dd unless >6" snow a 'refurbed'/' work in progress' trailer, to haul stuff
Search --> Advanced --> select the 60s forum, search for "horn", restrict the search to titles only, I get 3 pages of threads.
Give a man a fish, ......
__________________ [ ][ ]=TOYOTA=[ ][ ] - '89, rough and ready - Wobble Wagon Now with a 2FE that's been turd polished "This is the 3FE head on the 2F block. So it's like yours, but makes power!" - Oysterkraut [ ][ ]=TOYOTA=[ ][ ] - '90, no rust, in the wings
Worked out for you? I'm not trying to be a dick (not really anyway), once you get the hang of searching, it is a REALLY useful tool. If you know who posted in a thread, and what the subject was, you can find something you recall from months ago in like 30 seconds.
__________________ [ ][ ]=TOYOTA=[ ][ ] - '89, rough and ready - Wobble Wagon Now with a 2FE that's been turd polished "This is the 3FE head on the 2F block. So it's like yours, but makes power!" - Oysterkraut [ ][ ]=TOYOTA=[ ][ ] - '90, no rust, in the wings
Had the same problem with my 84 FJ60. Turns out it is the brass contact "pin" that rubs on the brass ring under the steering wheel. The pin needs to make contact with the ring to provide the electrical "juice" to activate the horn. Pull the wheel off and, you should see an electrical pigtail that goes into the wheel. Follow that and you should be able to see the problem.
Chris 84 FJ60 (original owner!)
I finally got the time to fool with this issue...
I got 2 of the 3 screws off of the back of the steering wheel...
the 3rd is stripped.
Any suggestions on how to remove that stripped screw?
Also, what do I put my meter on to make sure I have juice to the contact points
behind the steering pad?
You might need to drill out the screw. Put your DMM on DC Volts - anything over 12 volts. DC is the straight line symbol, AC is the sinewave symbol on the DMM.
BTW - I used black electrical tape to get the metal ring on the steering wheel to sit a little further out. Worked fine, cost nothing. Good luck getting the steering wheel back on straight Oh, you have a puller, right?
i think someone posted a trick about removing the LC emblem to access internals...
also see if the horn works when you hold it and turn the wheel... That way you know it's a contact when it does work part way through - vs dead horns.
I wouldn't mess with the washers - i think the new parts are like 10$ from CDan.
I need to do this myself, but haven't gotten to it yet. Mine will honk part way through turning wheel, but typically doesn't work. so far not a big deal, but on my list.
__________________ 1988 FJ62- SOLD (the starter of the disease)
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I had the FJ at a shop for something else...mechanic said the horns had juice to them...previous owner said the horns would work depending on sterring wheel position, now they do not work at all.
Where do I put the leads on the meter to test behind the steering cushion?
Also...I got a tool to get the stripped screw out and I do have a steering wheel puller.
You might need to drill out the screw. Put your DMM on DC Volts - anything over 12 volts. DC is the straight line symbol, AC is the sinewave symbol on the DMM.
BTW - I used black electrical tape to get the metal ring on the steering wheel to sit a little further out. Worked fine, cost nothing. Good luck getting the steering wheel back on straight Oh, you have a puller, right?
Needle nose Vise-Grips.
__________________ José White 92 FJ80 "El Tractor Dos" :4" Ironman Suspension, ARB bumper.
Gray 92 FJ80 aka "La Tractorcita" : stock.(Daughter's FJ)
83 FJ60 "El Tractor "(RIP) 2009 https://www.facebook.com/groups/110125068344?ap=1
The horns will always have juice to them. Toyota uses switched grounds instead of switched power. So the horn button completes the ground side of the circuit.
Dynosoar
__________________ '82 V8J60 - TPI 350 with a 700R4 attached to a splitcase, Cable Locker FF rear end, 4" SUA (National Spring), Dune Beige 416 it used to be Copper Metalic, Has been south to Cabo San Lucas, BCS and North to Port Angels,WA.