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60-Series Wagons Tech talk for the 60, 61, and 62-Series Cruiser wagons -- FJ62.com


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Old 11-22-08, 07:18 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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1985 FJ60 Wagon Horn Problem

I have power at both horns & the fuse is good, but nothing happens when I push the buttons on the steering wheel.

Any suggestions?
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Old 11-22-08, 07:24 PM   #2
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do a search my friend. several threads about fixing da dreaded dead horn.

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Old 11-22-08, 07:30 PM   #3
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I looked under the 'Search' tab could not find any....
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Old 11-22-08, 07:37 PM   #4
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Search --> Advanced --> select the 60s forum, search for "horn", restrict the search to titles only, I get 3 pages of threads.

Give a man a fish, ......

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Old 11-22-08, 07:53 PM   #5
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Much obliged....
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Old 11-22-08, 07:58 PM   #6
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Worked out for you? I'm not trying to be a dick (not really anyway), once you get the hang of searching, it is a REALLY useful tool. If you know who posted in a thread, and what the subject was, you can find something you recall from months ago in like 30 seconds.

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[ ][ ]=TOYOTA=[ ][ ] - '89, rough and ready - Wobble Wagon Now with a 2FE that's been turd polished "This is the 3FE head on the 2F block. So it's like yours, but makes power!" - Oysterkraut
[ ][ ]=TOYOTA=[ ][ ] - '90, no rust, in the wings

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Old 11-22-08, 09:54 PM   #7
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Brass pin worn out!

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Old 11-22-08, 11:14 PM   #8
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ONe of these days, I'm going to be to the point where I can worry about my horn...

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Old 11-23-08, 06:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
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Brass pin worn out!
Where is that, exactly?
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Old 12-06-08, 06:24 PM   #10
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Had the same problem with my 84 FJ60. Turns out it is the brass contact "pin" that rubs on the brass ring under the steering wheel. The pin needs to make contact with the ring to provide the electrical "juice" to activate the horn. Pull the wheel off and, you should see an electrical pigtail that goes into the wheel. Follow that and you should be able to see the problem.
Chris 84 FJ60 (original owner!)
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Old 01-31-09, 01:27 PM   #11
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I finally got the time to fool with this issue...
I got 2 of the 3 screws off of the back of the steering wheel...
the 3rd is stripped.

Any suggestions on how to remove that stripped screw?

Also, what do I put my meter on to make sure I have juice to the contact points
behind the steering pad?
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Old 01-31-09, 01:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corneld View Post
I finally got the time to fool with this issue...
I got 2 of the 3 screws off of the back of the steering wheel...
the 3rd is stripped.

Any suggestions on how to remove that stripped screw?

Also, what do I put my meter on to make sure I have juice to the contact points
behind the steering pad?
You might need to drill out the screw. Put your DMM on DC Volts - anything over 12 volts. DC is the straight line symbol, AC is the sinewave symbol on the DMM.

BTW - I used black electrical tape to get the metal ring on the steering wheel to sit a little further out. Worked fine, cost nothing. Good luck getting the steering wheel back on straight Oh, you have a puller, right?

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Old 01-31-09, 01:44 PM   #13
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i think someone posted a trick about removing the LC emblem to access internals...

also see if the horn works when you hold it and turn the wheel... That way you know it's a contact when it does work part way through - vs dead horns.

I wouldn't mess with the washers - i think the new parts are like 10$ from CDan.

I need to do this myself, but haven't gotten to it yet. Mine will honk part way through turning wheel, but typically doesn't work. so far not a big deal, but on my list.

GL!

rob

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Old 01-31-09, 02:31 PM   #14
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Old 01-31-09, 02:54 PM   #15
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I had the FJ at a shop for something else...mechanic said the horns had juice to them...previous owner said the horns would work depending on sterring wheel position, now they do not work at all.

Where do I put the leads on the meter to test behind the steering cushion?

Also...I got a tool to get the stripped screw out and I do have a steering wheel puller.

Help?
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Old 01-31-09, 03:37 PM   #16
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Does the 'pin' you guys are referring to have a spring on it?
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Old 01-31-09, 04:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaylon View Post
You might need to drill out the screw. Put your DMM on DC Volts - anything over 12 volts. DC is the straight line symbol, AC is the sinewave symbol on the DMM.

BTW - I used black electrical tape to get the metal ring on the steering wheel to sit a little further out. Worked fine, cost nothing. Good luck getting the steering wheel back on straight Oh, you have a puller, right?
Needle nose Vise-Grips.

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Old 01-31-09, 04:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrollwithTojo View Post
Two Words: Train Horn

-Carl

I'm getting one of those!!

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Gray 9
2 FJ80 aka "La Tractorcita" : stock.(Daughter's FJ)
83 FJ60 "El Tractor "(RIP) 2009
https://www.facebook.com/groups/110125068344?ap=1

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Old 01-31-09, 04:49 PM   #19
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The horns will always have juice to them. Toyota uses switched grounds instead of switched power. So the horn button completes the ground side of the circuit.


Dynosoar

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Old 01-31-09, 04:56 PM   #20
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Does the 'brass pin' you guys are referring to have a spring on it?

Whatever 'it' is that has the spring on it, has juice to it.

Assuming the thing with the spring on it is the pin...since it has juice to it, does that mean it is functioning correctly?

How do I know if the horns themselves are shot? How do I test the horns?
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