[ScooterFJ62]

Replacing the oil pan and gasket and need to know how tight the pan bolts should be. I know what the specs say but my torque wrench is in ft/lbs and only goes as low as 20ft lbs. Any idea how tight they should be, really dont want to have to buy an in/lbs wrench if I dont have to.

[chicago]

Can you borrow one?
If you go too tight, you can crack or smoosh the gasket and or not get an even seal, start leaking and have to do the whole damn thing over again. Im not the guy who preaches and does everything "by the book", but there are some things that are better done that way for your long term sanity if nothing else.
Its never detrimental to have an in/lb torque wrench. Either way, the bolts are not that tight at all.


Chicago

[cruiser88]

Originally Posted by ScooterFJ62

Replacing the oil pan and gasket and need to know how tight the pan bolts should be. I know what the specs say but my torque wrench is in ft/lbs and only goes as low as 20ft lbs. Any idea how tight they should be, really dont want to have to buy an in/lbs wrench if I dont have to.

You need one if you plan on working on any cars.

[astonmartinv8]

I wouldn't worry about torquing to specific setting, i hand tight mine but must tight in cross sequence. This is based on experience, oil pan is not critical part. But exhaust and head bolts are, as they subject to stress load.

cheers

[astonmartinv8]

sorry, i type wrong .... not hand tight, i mean feel it.. i didn't have any leak since...i replace my gasket.

cheers

[JLH911]

Originally Posted by ScooterFJ62

Replacing the oil pan and gasket and need to know how tight the pan bolts should be. I know what the specs say but my torque wrench is in ft/lbs and only goes as low as 20ft lbs. Any idea how tight they should be, really dont want to have to buy an in/lbs wrench if I dont have to.

Check your local chain Auto Parts store...they rent tools around here and I'm pretty sure elsewhere too.

[151fab]

Place your pinky finger 3.25 inches down the wrench from the bolt and pull until the three remaining fingers on that hand are no longer able to function normally. This is the approximate torque for a oil pan bolt.

[cruiser88]

Originally Posted by 151fab

Place your pinky finger 3.25 inches down the wrench from the bolt and pull until the three remaining fingers on that hand are no longer able to function normally. This is the approximate torque for a oil pan bolt.

If this is the only project you plan on doing then this is fine.





































disclosure.... I rarely use a torque wrench

[ScooterFJ62]

Thanks for all the replys. Ended up going to Harbor Freight and getting an in/lbs torque wrench for under $20.00.

[cruiser88]

Originally Posted by ScooterFJ62

Thanks for all the replys. Ended up going to Harbor Freight and getting an in/lbs torque wrench for under $20.00.

Just don't ever use it on a headgasket

[ScooterFJ62]

Originally Posted by cruiser88

Just don't ever use it on a headgasket

Why not?

[cruiser88]

Originally Posted by ScooterFJ62

Why not?

They are well known for be horribly inaccurate. I know this from personal experience and from many other people. Remember you get what you pay for.....but for the job you got it for its fine.

[doctorjj]

Originally Posted by ScooterFJ62

Why not?

Well, for one thing, most head bolts are in the 90-100+ ft/lb range, so no inch/lb wrench is going to work.
As for using a torque wrench on the oil pan. I never have used one and have never had problems. Just like any other oil pan, tappet cover, inspection cover, or intake on a small block Ford or Chevy, it's ALL feel. And going over the bolts several times as the gasket undergoes stress relaxation.

[cruiser88]

Originally Posted by doctorjj

Well, for one thing, most head bolts are in the 90-100+ ft/lb range, so no inch/lb wrench is going to work.
As for using a torque wrench on the oil pan. I never have used one and have never had problems. Just like any other oil pan, tappet cover, inspection cover, or intake on a small block Ford or Chevy, it's ALL feel. And going over the bolts several times as the gasket undergoes stress relaxation.

Right..and I torque mine down in 3 stages

[Fast Eddy]

Tightening them with a screwdriver-type handle is about right. A '78 has phillips+hex heads. Do the later years have them too? I did it this way, and my pan doesn't leak. You don't have to worry about squashing the gasket with this method.

[DirtyLittleSecret]

Originally Posted by Fast Eddy

Tightening them with a screwdriver-type handle is about right. A '78 has phillips+hex heads. Do the later years have them too? I did it this way, and my pan doesn't leak. You don't have to worry about squashing the gasket with this method.

Great idea. Honestly, I've been farting around buiding motors/cars for about 20 years and have never had a torque wrench until last week (got a screaming deal that I could not pass up, and reasoned it as a gift for my second Masters degree).
That said, I've messed up a few things in the past by over torqing. Great to have such a tool in the tool chest!

[Fast Eddy]

Originally Posted by DirtyLittleSecret

I've messed up a few things in the past by over torqing. Great to have such a tool in the tool chest!

I got my first torque wrench this year too. The only thing I've used one for in the past is for heads. I must have the magic touch, because I've never had a problem with cars or bicycles and I've done a lot of work on both.

[goodol84]

Pick a decent one up! It has opened up a lot of side work for me because know one I know has one. Just did a rear main seal on a J**p to fund my cruiser project!!

[Bookseeb]

Originally Posted by chicago

Can you borrow one?
If you go too tight, you can crack or smoosh the gasket and or not get an even seal, start leaking and have to do the whole damn thing over again. Im not the guy who preaches and does everything "by the book", but there are some things that are better done that way for your long term sanity if nothing else.
Its never detrimental to have an in/lb torque wrench. Either way, the bolts are not that tight at all.


Chicago

Ya mon, I did a search and found the torque to be 84 in/lbs. I thought that was a bit much, even in in/lbs. I just replaced my OP gasket and actually stopped at 60 in/lbs. noticing the edges of the gasket were starting to bulge out. Just like most I retighten by feel, but I wanted to get'er on properly the first time.

[BuckeyeFan]

I've been trying to find a brand of torque wrench that most people think is a good one. Do you all have any recommendations? I looked at Snap-On, Kanon, Craftsman, Kobalt, etc. Any "size" consensus?

[overhanger]

With a Snap On in/lb torque wrench set to FSM spec, I noticed the oil pan gasket just starting to squish out a small bit. Retorque a few months later as the OEM cork gasket will compress.

[Elbert]

MAC and Snap-On are the "pro" stuff. I would not worry too much about torque values on the oil pan gasket. Its more of a judgement thing...tighten down but don't pinch the gasket. Other places torque values are important.

You can't go wrong for the msot part with MAC or Snap-On if you have the $$. Most craftsman stuff is decent.

Most every nut / bolt on a vehicle has an assigned torque value...some are important (engine stuff & trans * differientals) generally speaking ,otherwise its a judgement call where "tight" is good. The judgement comes with time and experience where you have broken studs, stripped bolts....etc. After a few of those you get a "feel" for what's ok. Any engine components, transmission & differential torque values are worth paying attention to and investing in an appropriate torque wrench.

[Tinker]

My uncle was an airplane mechanic during WWII: he told me torque wrenches made a monkey out of him more than once. Bolts, nuts, & studs develop burrs & rough spots over time & believing the torque wrench leads to under-tightening things.

All the pro mechanics I know tighten incidental items like VCs, OPs, etc. by feel, & the big things (heads, rod caps, mains) by torque wrench. If you follow what the FSM says about replacing certain fasteners and torque values by size & pitch of thread you really can't go wrong on these tractors.

I have a Crapsman click-stop 1/2" torque wrench & have had it re-calibrated once. Pretty cheap & worth it IMHO. Used a friend's in/lb Snap-On for the intake manifold gasket on my Vortec. Pretty snazzy with a vibrate/beep annunciator IIRC. Doubt if I'll buy one, though.

[overhanger]

[QUOTE=Tinker;3980924]My uncle was an airplane mechanic during WWII: he told me torque wrenches made a monkey out of him more than once. Bolts, nuts, & studs develop burrs & rough spots over time & believing the torque wrench leads to under-tightening things.

Torque wrench technology has improved some since WWII, not to refute your statement.