[chappysfj40]

good evening alll,

so my cruiser is dead, won't start at all, nothing not even a hint of starting. tried lots of things
http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...60-350tbi.html

and now here is the next one, what do these parts do and how do i test them?

your looking at a top view of my engine, the front on the engine is to the left and the top of the pic is the pass side of the engine, the things inside the orange box is what i dont know what they are.

thanks again

[hicruise55]

One on left is the ESC sensor- Electronic Spark Control, one on right is the MAP sensor- Manifold Absolute Pressure

If you dont have a FSM for the engine you have, you need one, it is invaluble.

[lehiguy]

The previous post is right on the part ID. The TBI system is really quite simple. Do you have spark, if so check the timing with the timing adjustment wire disconnected (brown wire). Check for fuel pump operation and power at the injector, each has two wires, one is ground, the other will be hot when the key is on. These should be energized by a relay, so check switched power to the relay, inline fuse, etc. Each swap is different, but if it was done even remotely right, there will be a fuel pump relay and another relay, or maybe more, for everything else. Some people bypass the oil pressure switch, I didn't, so if the motor loses OP, the fuel pump quits. You can check that by using a jumper wire if you still have the OP switch. The FP relay powers the pump momentarily at start up, independently of the oil pressure switch. Anyway, some basic tests and you should narrow it down pretty fast. All these parts are almost spilling over the fence at any wrecking yard.

[chappysfj40]

first off let me thanks for the replys, it is helping..
i do have spark. but i cannot start the engine so how can i check timing?
fuel pump is working great too,
the oil pressure switch , where is that and what doesit look like?

Originally Posted by lehiguy

The previous post is right on the part ID. The TBI system is really quite simple. Do you have spark, if so check the timing with the timing adjustment wire disconnected (brown wire). Check for fuel pump operation and power at the injector, each has two wires, one is ground, the other will be hot when the key is on. These should be energized by a relay, so check switched power to the relay, inline fuse, etc. Each swap is different, but if it was done even remotely right, there will be a fuel pump relay and another relay, or maybe more, for everything else. Some people bypass the oil pressure switch, I didn't, so if the motor loses OP, the fuel pump quits. You can check that by using a jumper wire if you still have the OP switch. The FP relay powers the pump momentarily at start up, independently of the oil pressure switch. Anyway, some basic tests and you should narrow it down pretty fast. All these parts are almost spilling over the fence at any wrecking yard.

[Elbert]

oil pressur switch is down near the distributor....kind of long looking sensor, it screws into the rear of the lifter valley....just to the rear of the intake manifold. You'll see it fairly close to the distributor. Timing going to be hard to check without engine running....unless you want to take some stuff apart which I doubt. Remove power wire from distirbutor....remove #1 plug, place thumb over spark plug hole....., bump starter...turn engine over until you feel compression out of the # 1 plug hole....your timing mark at the crankshaft balancer should be close to the 0 degree mark (base timing). I doubt this is your problem. LIke I said before...it the truck spins over fast..when you try to start it....then you could have jumped time or had teeth missing off the timing gear...or mayb have a broken timing chain (these rarely fail). I think if you had a timing problem you would have a lot of popping back through the throttle body or backfiring.

DO you have any idea what year that 350 is and what vehicle its from. I can look up some stuff for you. I have a shop manual for a 92 K1500. CHilton makes a manual on cd-rom that might be avalaible in your local book store. Its not great but its better than nothing.... probally paper copy too.

[Elbert]

see attached.... this sensor is vertical....near the distributor.

[chappysfj40]

the engine is 88 chevy pickup, not sure on model. going to look right now at that sensor and check the oil, i heard that could be a issue. lolol stupid me. lollo


again thanks a bunch.

[chappysfj40]

here is a pic of what i have behind the dist.
the green arrow points to what i think is the oil presor sensor. chine in if i am wrong.
the red arrow points to the oil line as it come off the block.

[chappysfj40]

let me ask a silly question about the oil presure sensor. does it shut the fuel pump off? because i hear my pump running.

[lehiguy]

Originally Posted by chappysfj40

let me ask a silly question about the oil presure sensor. does it shut the fuel pump off? because i hear my pump running.

It will close the circuit at 4 PSI so the fuel pump stays running. It is inactive at startup. Check for power at the injectors. there will be a wire of the same color on both injectors, this is hot and should be hot anytime the key is on. If not, you have a relay issue or a fuse on the switched power that energizes the relay.

[ntsqd]

Based on the pic posted above I'd say that the green arrow is pointing to the OP sender.

Running all of the time, or running for the first 5-20 seconds after turning the key on?

If the ECU is behaving properly it should turn on the fuel pump when you first turn the ignition on, and keep it on for some set short period of time. After that time the ECU looks to see if there is a signal from the OP sender. If there is, then the pump stays on. If there is not, then the pump is turned off.

[Elbert]

yes, green arrow on the OP sensor....looks like there's a 90 degree setup to where it threads into the block. The OP can stop the engine based on pressure. You really need to come up with a manual of some type based on the year and type engine you have. Hard to look at this stuff from "afar".... I'm sure there are some guys in the local area who are LC idiots like the rest of us, who have done V-8 swaps.

[ntsqd]

Originally Posted by Elbert

snip....
......I'm sure there are some guys in the local area who are LC idiots like the rest of us, who have done V-8 swaps.

Raises hand, done swaps but not yet in a 60. PM already sent.

[Elbert]

As mentioned before I have a GM shop manual for a 92 K1500, I will be glad to look up any test references. I believe there are some troubleshooting type flow charts in there too. If you don't make any headway I'll see about trying to get you some of that info.

[chappysfj40]

thanks again guys,, my biggest deal is just time to work on it. that is the biggest issue.

[ntsqd]

I'm starting to think that a check for codes is the next step. There should be an CEL and possibly an ALDL in place for it to have gotten a BAR label. I've not had any trouble with the Sub so I've not had to learn about pulling codes from it. Does anyone know of an on-line reference?

[baxter650]

If you have spark and you have fuel you should have something, running, popping, farting, something weather the timing is off or not. You say you here the fuel pump running but do you have fuel at the throttle body?
When you cycle the key you should get a second or two of injector pulses down the throttle body.
If the pump is working and you don't have fuel i would look at the preasure regulator on the throttle body ( you said you changed the filter before right?) there is a adjustment on the top of the regulator itself. I'm thinking your pump is working but you are not building any preasure because it is just cycling back to the tank.
Dump some fuel down the throttle body and try to start it, let us know what happens. good luck.

[chappysfj40]

thanks guys,

i did dump fuel down the TB and got nothing at all. this is baffeling, i need a book. haahh

[lehiguy]

Originally Posted by chappysfj40

thanks guys,

i did dump fuel down the TB and got nothing at all. this is baffeling, i need a book. haahh

Sounds like an ignition issue since the presence of fuel made no difference. That or it's flooded. Did you ever check for power at the injectors or check for fuel spray under the injector? Put a timing light on that thing and see what you get.

[brokenparts]

How's the compression?

[chappysfj40]

GOOD NEWS GOOD NEWS!!!!

SHE IS ALIVE NOW, THANKS THOM(ntsqd)!!!! REPLACED THE COIL AND THE MODULARE..
i was getting little spark at the plug bt not enough to fire the engine, the only way we figured that out was thom put his timing light on the plug wire and it would not flash when that plug fired. so we said lets try these two parts and see what happens, did that and it fired right up


thanks again alll this is why i love mud

[92chevy]

I know this is an old thread but I have a question on the oil pressure switch. My 92 will turn over and if you give it a shot of ethher it fires right up. It does not always not start so it is a little hard to diagnose. But could this still be the oil pressure switch or do you think it is something else? thanks Aaron

[Elbert]

Just my view. The oil pressure switch is only relative to the oil pressue issue. It will not let the engine run if the oil pressure drops or does not reach a specific value. You might want to try replacing the distributor module and coil too...both of which are not that expensive.

[92chevy]

I was thinking the coil myself when someone suggested the oil pressure switch. The cap and rotor were just replaced so maybe I will pick up a coil. If I remmeber right the coil is in the top of the cap on these, correct?