Fj80 axle/coil swap

Mor4wd · 11-19-08, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60

Bummer about the front diff. If it's going to be part time, which I can only assume since it's going to be in a 60, then I'd say leave it but make sure to change the gear fluid after the first 4wd venture.

As for the bump stops, I'm pretty sure it's not a good thing to have the truck ride on them. How's the 80 set up as for stock height up travel?

Not sure about the stock 80 up travel, I just did what worked for me. I just worried that a 2" bump is not enough for a heavy truck like this.

ntsqd · 11-20-08, 09:27 AM

Those bits look like bearing roller cage parts to me. Tells me a bearing is about to go. Looks like it might be a small bearing by the size of the bits, but who knows. I'd be pulling it for inspection, but your call. I've seen magnets do that in the past. Even though it looks more like it swelled from soaking in oil (or something else) usually it's from getting hit by something. IME anyway.....

Hydro bumps: you can ride on them at ride height or you can set them to contact at some point into the up travel. Can even set them to make contact somewhere in the droop travel. They do not care. Depending on how they interact with the rest of the suspension there may be some noise from the actual contact.
There is valving in them and you can tune the oil volume as well as the N2 charge pressure to tune how they behave. I would buy at least a 4" stroke and make the mounts to allow you to try different points of contact in the travel. You can also internally limit their down-stroke, which is why I say buy the 4" version at minimum. Can always make or buy or have made some sleaves to fit over the shaft inside of the bump to limit their down-stroke, but if you end up needing a longer stroke you have to start over.
The old school recommendation was that there still be some final travel limiter other than the hydro bumps, but I've been told that some mfg's are now saying that you can use them as the final limiter. Personally I'd have a small urethane pad as the final limit if space allows.

Mor4wd · 11-20-08, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ntsqd

Those bits look like bearing roller cage parts to me. Tells me a bearing is about to go. Looks like it might be a small bearing by the size of the bits, but who knows. I'd be pulling it for inspection, but your call. I've seen magnets do that in the past. Even though it looks more like it swelled from soaking in oil (or something else) usually it's from getting hit by something. IME anyway.....

Hydro bumps: you can ride on them at ride height or you can set them to contact at some point into the up travel. Can even set them to make contact somewhere in the droop travel. They do not care. Depending on how they interact with the rest of the suspension there may be some noise from the actual contact.
There is valving in them and you can tune the oil volume as well as the N2 charge pressure to tune how they behave. I would buy at least a 4" stroke and make the mounts to allow you to try different points of contact in the travel. You can also internally limit their down-stroke, which is why I say buy the 4" version at minimum. Can always make or buy or have made some sleaves to fit over the shaft inside of the bump to limit their down-stroke, but if you end up needing a longer stroke you have to start over.
The old school recommendation was that there still be some final travel limiter other than the hydro bumps, but I've been told that some mfg's are now saying that you can use them as the final limiter. Personally I'd have a small urethane pad as the final limit if space allows.

Hey thanks for the info. I know the only way to know about the front diff is to pull it

. Thanks means pulling pulling apart both ends and sliding the axles out right? I should have pulled it when I rebuilt both knuckles.

Great info on the bumps, I completely forgot the I could limit the travel. There really is no reason to get the 2" bumps. Ill give a call the manufacturer to ask about a final limit bump. Thanks for the help!

Tapage · 11-20-08, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mor4wd

Hey thanks for the info. I know the only way to know about the front diff is to pull it

. Thanks means pulling pulling apart both ends and sliding the axles out right

yes .. that the way and yes .. you should pull it when you was in the knuckle job .. but isin't too late .. I'm positive in the bearing diagnosis.

Mor4wd · 11-20-08, 06:06 PM

Well bad news about that diff. Ill try and get it pulled in the next coulpe weeks.

A few picture updates. The blue tape is approximately where im going to make my body cuts. Anyone know of a tire in the 37-39" range with good highway manners?

Mor4wd · 11-20-08, 06:08 PM

more.....

Mor4wd · 11-20-08, 06:09 PM

and the rest....

intense1 · 11-30-08, 10:12 PM

IDK if you got the bups yet, but check these out: Light Racing - Jounce Shocks

GLTHFJ60 · 11-30-08, 10:16 PM

That is SICK man! Have you driven it yet?

MANUCHAO · 11-30-08, 10:50 PM

man...THAT... looks nice.....

GLTHFJ60 · 11-30-08, 10:54 PM

I like those cut lines BTW. That's exactly what I am going to do on my truck, but primarily for rust removal as opposed to clearance.

Oh, and what t-case are you running? Split case I'm assuming?

Mor4wd · 12-01-08, 12:14 AM

Thank guys.
Yeah its got a split case.
Also, for bumps, I just ordered up some air bumps but thanks for the link.
Ill update again tomorrow.

flyology · 12-06-08, 05:35 AM

Found this the other day, trying to contact the owner to see who did the conversion......

Toyota Landcruiser 60 Series Unfinished Project - eBay, Passenger Vehicles, Cars, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 10-Dec-08 22:11:38 AEDST)

MangoMan · 12-06-08, 05:53 AM

Awesome build-up! One of the toughest rear-ends i think i've ever seen.

nicko · 12-07-08, 05:12 PM

Nice work man, the only thing I would like to see is the rear axle 14 inches back and then it would be perfect

Mor4wd · 12-07-08, 05:22 PM

Thanks for the encouragement!
Lots of small things done. Got started on the fender trimming. Got some sliders welded up. Also got some new tires. Anyone have a set of fzj80 oem alloys they want to get rid of?

Mor4wd · 12-07-08, 05:23 PM

couple more....

Mor4wd · 12-07-08, 05:49 PM

a couple more to show the height.....

Mor4wd · 12-08-08, 12:34 PM

Just ordered up some parts for my hydro assist so expect to see that go on pretty soon.

GLTHFJ60 · 12-08-08, 08:21 PM

First of all the cutting came out great. For the rear wheel wells, did you use a piece of round stock to clean up the seam or did you just weld it closed?

Second of all, are you going to tap the stock box for the hydro assist?

Mor4wd · 12-08-08, 08:29 PM

Thanks. Overall Im very happy with the cuts. In the rear I folded the lip straight made some cuts to allow the fold then folded in into the wheelwell and welded together. On the front, I Welded in 1/4" round stock along the entire cut, it makes for a really solid fender.
On the hydro, yeah, Ill be tapping to oem 80 box that I have.

RLMS · 12-09-08, 09:27 PM

I dig cool builds like this one

Later

Justin

GLTHFJ60 · 01-08-09, 06:01 PM

Any updates??

Mor4wd · 01-08-09, 06:36 PM

Well things are moving very slowly. But I am close.
Ive got my rear air bumps in place, did some limit straps, got the fuel lines mostly finished, body work is coming along but still have a bit to go.
Ill let the pictures do most of the talking. Enjoy........

Mor4wd · 01-08-09, 06:38 PM

few more.... oh yeah, body works SUCKS!

flyology · 01-08-09, 06:57 PM

This build up is great! What is the difference in overall width between the 60 series axles to the 80 series axles?

muddogbob · 01-08-09, 07:50 PM

80 axles are about 5" wider.

I'm about to start compiling parts for my fj80 rear swap, and I'm still not sure weather to do the standard 5 link, or triangulate the uppers and ditch the panhard. After going with the triangulated 4 link, do you think it's the best way to go?

Mor4wd · 01-08-09, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddogbob

80 axles are about 5" wider.

I'm about to start compiling parts for my fj80 rear swap, and I'm still not sure weather to do the standard 5 link, or triangulate the uppers and ditch the panhard. After going with the triangulated 4 link, do you think it's the best way to go?

Yeah, for me, the 4link was a better option. The rear of the 60 has ample room for triangulated uppers. I liked that I could weld new mounts for the uppers right to the inside of the frame rather than having to make a cross-member if I went with the stock 80 setup. Either way I think you will be happy.

muddogbob · 01-08-09, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mor4wd

Yeah, for me, the 4link was a better option. The rear of the 60 has ample room for triangulated uppers. I liked that I could weld new mounts for the uppers right to the inside of the frame rather than having to make a cross-member if I went with the stock 80 setup. Either way I think you will be happy.

It does seem to simplify the setup for sure. What angle were you able to make your uppers? Also what did you do with all the hard lines on he inside of the frame rail on the passenger side with the link bracket there?

Mor4wd · 01-08-09, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddogbob

It does seem to simplify the setup for sure. What angle were you able to make your uppers? Also what did you do with all the hard lines on he inside of the frame rail on the passenger side with the link bracket there?

Ill try and remember to get a picture of it tomorrow but I simply put a few bends in them to go up and over my mount. My uppers are angled at 22.5 to 23 degrees.
So they are at a 45 degree angle from the axle.