[orangefj45]

well, joey and his son made it to stockton this afternoon. my helper picked them up at the train station and brought them back to the shop. after going over a few things we decided to replace the front and rear seats with some freebies that i had in a parts donor rig. they were definetly in better shape and it's a long ride home........same color to boot!
after about an hour or so chatting, wrenching and checking things out joey hit the road. i called him a few minutes ago and they're about half way home. except for the carb not being in perfect shape, everything is going well. i did send another rebuildable carb core with joey which he'll get rebuilt and then installed.

i'll keep my fingers crossed for you bud; although, it's a cruiser so you're good to go!

thanks again for bringing your cruiser to my shop. also, thanks for the referrals guys, i do appreciate it!

[NLXTACY]

Georg, you are awesome man!!!!

I was listening for random noises and it seemed to all come from ALL the spare stuff you hooked me up with!!!

The road feel is awesome. No shaking, no rolling, no rocking. Really smooth. I was pretty surprised. I made mental notes of all the things that I need to give attention to. Carb DEFINITELY needs to be redone. I already contacted Jim C. and I will be sending the core to him.

The center console needs to be thrown out and I need to find some good aftermarket replacement. I realized I had bought visors through a fellow mudder but Georg threw them in for free.

There is a lot of heat that transmits through the trans tunnel. My right foot felt like it was cooking. So I will be removing the carpet and getting some decent thermal padding in there to take care of road noise and heat transferring.

Not having a radio for a 7 hour drive home SUCKS A$$!!!! I really hate you Zack! I hope you are reading this.

Keeping the cruiser at 2800RPMs is going to take a LOT of discipline. I could hear a whine everytime I crept into 3000RPMs.

Not having cupholders ALSO sucks a$$.

I noticed that I will definitely need a ladder to get into that rack. I let my kid jump into at the gas station but then the only way to get down was for him to use the rear wiper....Umm nooo. So onto the hood he went.

Going up the grapevine grade was no problem at all, 50 the whole way up.

I got 260 miles before I decided to get gas. Probably could have gone to 300 if I had a 5gal gas can waiting to go.

Second and third gear starting getting a weird whining towards the end of the trip. :( This worries me.

[D'Animal]

But at least you made it home.

[orangefj45]

glad to hear you made it home ok. i knew you would.


yeah, the transmission did have a whine in 1st thru 3rd as discussed. i think it's one of the countershaft bearings. it was noticeable but not bad when i drove it. if the vehicle was driveable when it came to me i would have been able to hear that and probably would have replaced it at that time.

either way, i have a good used transmissin and t-case combo at the shop that'll bolt right in. that would most-likely be the cheapest option to take care of the problem. the other option would be to have the transmission rebuilt but you'd have to have the t-case resealed or rebuilt at the same time which makes for a much heftier price-tag.

since you've already had to do so much work to the truck i'd say drive it for a while and see how it does. if the transmission noise gets worse, then you'd better do something about it before you have a catastrophic failure. if it satys the same, then just keep paying attention to it and figure out what you want to do with the rig. i know you were thinking about doing a conversion to a gm V8. depending on what transmission you want to run in conjunction with it should help you determine what you want/need to do about the existing trans.

thanks again!

georg @ valley hybrids

[orangefj45]

ps: the parts donor departed this earth yesterday, along with a bunch of other scrap. amazing how much money you get for scrap these days, almost makes it worth the trip to the recyclers'.

[D'Animal]

Pallet racking going to the scrap yard?

[orangefj45]

yup.

most of it had at least one bent leg from a forklift running into it, then there were two different widths and the racks i have in the shop use different cross bars. so i got tired of it laying around.........oh well, can't win em all.

[Spike Strip]

Holy mother of Dog!

Just read this entire post!

'bout a year ago, a buddy and I bombed up North to somewhere 8 hrs from here to buy an FJ62 that was supposedly manna to cruiserheads.

Got there at 3pm on a Sat. Guy is gone. Waited with his drunk wife until 5pm. Truck shows up with a CEL and that just-gunked at the car wash smell and a fried alternator -- and much less truck quality than advertised.

Ended up bailing and turned around and went home driving 18 hrs in one day!

I feel your pain, man...


*******

Joey, if you need a 4spd tranny to rebuild to replace yours (was running when removed, for H55 upgrade, mileage is 213K) I've got one that's a freebie to you (I'm in Encino) -- Just come get it.

PM me if you want it.

S.

[89s rule]

Originally Posted by Spike Strip

Holy mother of Dog!

Just read this entire post!

'bout a year ago, a buddy and I bombed up North to somewhere 8 hrs from here to buy an FJ62 that was supposedly manna to cruiserheads.

Got there at 3pm on a Sat. Guy is gone. Waited with his drunk wife until 5pm. Truck shows up with a CEL and that just-gunked at the car wash smell and a fried alternator -- and much less truck quality than advertised.

Ended up bailing and turned around and went home driving 18 hrs in one day!

I feel your pain, man...

S.

Been there too, drove to Arkansas to buy a truck I found on Pirate got there and it was rough and I wasnt so sure it would have made the drip home. Turned around and headed back home. Ate some great BBQ in Memphis and rested in a rest area in TN somewhere for maye 2 or 3 hrs. I ended up driving 20 hrs in 24!

Things always apear better in pictures than they really are.

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by Spike Strip

Joey, if you need a 4spd tranny to rebuild to replace yours (was running when removed, for H55 upgrade, mileage is 213K) I've got one that's a freebie to you (I'm in Encino) -- Just come get it.

PM me if you want it.

S.

Thanks SPIKE!!

I actually have a bearing in my trans now that only makes noise in 1st thru 3rd. In 4th gear its totally quite. In fact in 4th on the street the truck is pretty quiet.

I am planning on eventually doing the H55 route myself. So I will be looking for that sometime soon. But I TOTALLY appreciate the offer. That is way cool!

[NLXTACY]

Hi there folks, well I have had the truck in my possession for a few days now and it took me very little time to go ahead and tear into it.

So far:

• Remove all the crashed body panels on the passenger side
• Cleaned up the interior engine panels as best I could
• Installed new (to me) RED body panels. These included the front radiator support, the PS fender and the front valance.
• Pressure washed the truck
• Masked off the truck
• Primer and painted the red panels to white. Kind of a close match
• Stripped out all old junk wiring to get it back to stock
• Completely stripped the entire carpet out

I spent $300 over at SOR to get some stuff that I knew was going to be needed. Just random stuff to make everything complete:

• Headlight door
• Headlight screws and clips
• Overflow hose
• Hood bumpers
• Hood insulation clips
• Both hood rubber strips with clips
• Hose and elbow for headlight washer
• New front grille (old one hanging by zip ties)
• New DS side marker
• New pedals
• New battery hold down
• some other clips, nuts and screws

So far I spent all of Saturday on it, about 6 hours yesterday and about 8 hours today on it. I have made some good progress on the truck but unfortunately work is suffering because of it. Sucks when you work from home AND for yourself.

So now that I have the carpet out, I am thinking about just going with line-x or rhino lining for the inside floorboard. I've read through all the threads on which to use and how to do it, etc.

I am leaning towards Line-X. The closest shop near is actually the same guy that does all of the TLC Icon trucks. Needless to say he is pretty familiar with Landcruisers.

The price he quoted me was $700. Not exactly sure that is a good price. But then again its not worth a 150 mile drive to save a $100.

For now the lining on the inside is a given. BUT...I am torn between going with the standard black or maybe color matching the brown. Any thoughts?

Also, I MAY actually be doing the liner on the exterior as well although that s down the line when I start having money again.

[NLXTACY]

few more pics

[NLXTACY]

new body panels

[Spike Strip]

Hey, truck doesn't look too bad at all, way better than what I started with....

And with all that change you found under the seat, that should just about cover the transportation costs

And if you decide you need that 4spd, just lemme know.

S.

[NLXTACY]

Thanks SPIKE. Yeah I was hoping there would have been some gold bullion under the carpet. Something to feel like I won. Oh well. You know, if this bearing keeps going the way it is, I may be getting that 4spd from you after all

[orangefj45]

that's going to look soooooo much better. heck, it already looks better. i vote for black liner. i love the look of some liner on the body itself; around the bottom of the fenders and along the bottom of the tub, where the snake blinders normally reside. yours are already missing so the black liner would make for nice touch-up and contrast.


just a thought............

[unwiredadventures]

What a great story!

After seeing this truck last night, you have come a long way with it!

[NLXTACY]

Ok folks figured I would give a few updates to this beast.

• I have Rustoleum'd the new parts white to get it to match a little better. Doesn't look so bad now
• Finally got the A/C fixed before I left for Yellowstone. Cost $450 because we needed to make all new hoses and then converted the system to R-134a
• The A/C works decent but my complaint is the fan speed, in all speeds it feels like its just not moving enough air
• The carb will be going to Mark at Mark's OffRoad instead of JimC. NOTHING against JIMC at all but Mark is a carb guru himself and the benefit to having Mark do it is that he can do a test drive before AND after and do any tweaks that are necessary.
• My wife has driven it for two weeks straight and doesn't completely hate it
• We (meaning she) has decided she wants the truck to be painted gun metal grey and to change the interior color to gray which from what I can tell, looks to be pretty easy.
• I have decided on a SOA lift and will likely to this in about 6 months with a fellow mudder by doing both of our 60s at the same time, by ourselves.
• My wife is demanding floor mats, any suggestions?
• Definitely going to go with Rhino lining on the whole inside and up to about the windows
• Definitely going to get the outside lower trim line rhino lined as well
• I am on the waiting list for WagonGear's tailgate and side panels
• The alternator is constantly registering 12v or below. Often times the charge light will come on while driving. I can only assume that is an alternator issue at this point
• Runs cool as a cucumber even on the 106º day like today.
• Power steering works awesome.
• The transmission bearing that went bad is driving me nuts. When I get money coming in again I am going to get serious about doing the H55 conversion.
• The radio fiasco looks to be going the legal route. I bought the truck with a complete stereo system. And you all read how that went. So I've decided to take him and unfortunately his mother, to small claims court if they don't make good.

On a brighter side. Went to the grocery store today and some guy in the parking lot tracked me down inside the store wanting to buy the truck right then and there. His offer went up to $3100 before I took his card and said, "we'll see".

OH and Georg because I know you read this thread, the hold comes off tomorrow at midnight!!!!

[NLXTACY]

1000 POSTS!!!!!!!

I'm a lifer dammit!!

[NLXTACY]

1000 POSTS!!!!!!!

I'm a lifer dammit!!

[wagon4wd]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

Ok folks figured I would give a few updates to this beast.

• My wife has driven it for two weeks straight and doesn't completely hate it

Ah, most important.

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

• We (meaning she) has decided she wants the truck to be painted gun metal grey and to change the interior color to gray which from what I can tell, looks to be pretty easy.

Sweet. My favorite color for one of these, though you do have to respect the black and tans.

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

• I have decided on a SOA lift and will likely to this in about 6 months with a fellow mudder by doing both of our 60s at the same time, by ourselves.

Bad ass. Post pics.

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

• My wife is demanding floor mats, any suggestions?

I'm partial to huskies myself, but if she wants mats, she probably doesn't want acid proof plastic

One of my previous DDs had cheapo carpets from costco in it, just boring universal ones.

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

• Definitely going to go with Rhino lining on the whole inside and up to about the windows
• Definitely going to get the outside lower trim line rhino lined as well

I helped a friend of mine apply morton's to his minitruck, which some of you might have seen on the 45 run. Whole truck (inside and out of the bed) was under $200, and we shot it on with a gun. There's also roll-on stuff (chicago's was roll-on IIRC and turned out sweet). DIY will be a lot cheaper than Rhino.

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

• The alternator is constantly registering 12v or below. Often times the charge light will come on while driving. I can only assume that is an alternator issue at this point

Possibly, but (and this is the jeep owner in me), doublecheck it with a meter before condemning it. I know the volts gauge on my 60 reads lower than what is actually going on, but then again my light goes on. Either way, checking it is free. I can't remember what year yours is, but could swear I've seen reference to 60s with external voltage regulators on the alternator...

Belt tightness or slipping could also cause a low reading from the alternator.

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

• The transmission bearing that went bad is driving me nuts. When I get money coming in again I am going to get serious about doing the H55 conversion.

And since it's an early 60, it'll need a driveline mod, so probably a good idea to do that at least as the same time as the SOA, if any mods are required for that.

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

On a brighter side. Went to the grocery store today and some guy in the parking lot tracked me down inside the store wanting to buy the truck right then and there. His offer went up to $3100 before I took his card and said, "we'll see".

Always a stroke to the ego when you get that, especially when it comes after someone was giving you static about the bucket of bolts you were driving. Congrats

[ToyotaDon]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

• Finally got the A/C fixed before I left for Yellowstone. Cost $450 because we needed to make all new hoses and then converted the system to R-134a
• The A/C works decent but my complaint is the fan speed, in all speeds it feels like its just not moving enough air

When you had the A/C worked on, did anyone look at the evaporator core? It could have junk (hair, dirt, rodent nesting material, etc.) built up restricting the airflow. The easiest way to get in there is probably to remove the fan and get at the evaporator with compressed air & a vacuum.
Also, does the fan speed actually change when the switch is moved?

[Spike Strip]

Looking good, Joey... You work fast.

Where did you get the A/C work done? I need to do the same things: convert to 134a and such..



Good luck with the Radio ... Sue da Bastards !!

S.

[NLXTACY]

Ok so tried to find info about Morton's. Found nothing. Do share!

Yeah, belt tightness I suppose should be checked again just in case.

I was just talking with Georg at ValleyHybrids and he was pretty much saying the same thing, do the H55 the same time as doing the SOA.

Originally Posted by wagon4wd

I helped a friend of mine apply morton's to his minitruck, which some of you might have seen on the 45 run. Whole truck (inside and out of the bed) was under $200, and we shot it on with a gun. There's also roll-on stuff (chicago's was roll-on IIRC and turned out sweet). DIY will be a lot cheaper than Rhino.

Belt tightness or slipping could also cause a low reading from the alternator.

And since it's an early 60, it'll need a driveline mod, so probably a good idea to do that at least as the same time as the SOA, if any mods are required for that.

[NLXTACY]

Yeah I already have the paperwork ready to go to file. I've done it a few dozen times for various reasons over my life so I have the process down pat. I just hate doing it because it really is just a sad and pathetic process especially if you lose.

For A/C work I used Jerry at Enterprise Import Service.

Enterprise Import Service, Canoga Park CA 91304

The testimonials there pretty much sum him up.

Originally Posted by Spike Strip

Looking good, Joey... You work fast.

Where did you get the A/C work done? I need to do the same things: convert to 134a and such..



Good luck with the Radio ... Sue da Bastards !!

S.

[NLXTACY]

I cannot say definitively but just in case I am going to take things apart and look at it. I will be doing this for the evap:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...vaporator.html

Yeah its for an 80 but same process should work fine for a 60 as well.

Yes, the fan speed does change...barely.

Originally Posted by ToyotaDon

When you had the A/C worked on, did anyone look at the evaporator core? It could have junk (hair, dirt, rodent nesting material, etc.) built up restricting the airflow. The easiest way to get in there is probably to remove the fan and get at the evaporator with compressed air & a vacuum.
Also, does the fan speed actually change when the switch is moved?

[ToyotaDon]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

I cannot say definitively but just in case I am going to take things apart and look at it. I will be doing this for the evap:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...vaporator.html

Yeah its for an 80 but same process should work fine for a 60 as well.

Yes, the fan speed does change...barely.

Yeah, the BG Frigi-clean is a good product and a good idea, but if there is any larger material in there, the foam may not carry it off.

[NLXTACY]

agreed

[Zack1978]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

I cannot say definitively but just in case I am going to take things apart and look at it. I will be doing this for the evap:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...vaporator.html

Yeah its for an 80 but same process should work fine for a 60 as well.

Yes, the fan speed does change...barely.

Your blower motor could be on it's way out as well. It takes 2 minutes to change.


Zack

[Spike Strip]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

Ok so tried to find info about Morton's. Found nothing. Do share!

Yeah, belt tightness I suppose should be checked again just in case.

I was just talking with Georg at ValleyHybrids and he was pretty much saying the same thing, do the H55 the same time as doing the SOA.

If you're still looking for an H55, there's a guy in tehachapi who has one NIB, with shift lever, for sale...