IFS hubs?

[alkaline747trio]

What is needed to make IFS hubs work on a solid LC front axle? It gives 1.5" extra width, correct? Should work on an 80 if it works on a 60/62/Mini, correct also?

[LCOwner]

Rotor spacer to get the caliper to fit right.

Look about 2/3 down the page
Axle/Differential

[durangodds]

I don't know if it will work on an 80 or not, but it was easy on my 60. You just need a new hub gear from Longfield Axles. It's really that easy, no spacers required.

[mtntoys]

You need IFS wheel hubs, SA locking hubs and rotors. I pretty sure 80 hubs have the wheel mounting surface somewhere in between SA and IFS hubs. So this wont net as much width on an 80 axle as it would on a mini or earlier FJ axle. I have never worked on an 80 so I'm not sure.

If you need any of these parts, I have them for sale in Blacksburg.






IFS hub



SA hub



The point where the wheel mounts to the hub is 1.5” further out on the IFS hubs then the SA hubs. So it would widen your front axle 3”


The rotors on the IFS hubs are held on with 6 bolts. The rotors on the SA hubs have the wheel studs pressed through them and 2 bolts holding them on. So the bolt pattern for the rotor is different between the two. Besides that the hubs are identical.

You can’t reuse the IFS rotors because they have to large of a diameter. You can either use the original solid axle rotors or you can upgrade to vented FJ60 rotors (I think you can get them for $39 a piece).
FJ60 rotors


Your larger IFS calipers will work with the FJ60 rotors. When I drilled the IFS bolt pattern in the FJ rotors I used the IFS rotor as a template. The IFS rotor hat fit snugly inside the FJ rotor hat and lined up perfectly.

Since the rotor is also shifted outward 1.5” by the IFS hubs you have to mount the caliper 1.5” further out. You can do this by mounting the caliper on the outside of the ears on the knuckle instead of the stock location inside the ears. I did this by drilling the threads out of the ears and slightly enlarging the holes on the caliper with the 1/2” bit. I used a ½’ bolt, nut and lock washer to bolt the caliper to the knuckle. I guess you could try taping threads into the caliper instead of using a nut.

Some people argue that this is an unsafe set up with the caliper on the other side of the ears. I haven’t had any problems with it yet. I locked up my tires doing 40 twice. I think the ears on the knuckle are beefy enough to hand the very little bit of extra torque applied to them.

Sky manufacturing sells a kit that places a spacer in between the rotor and where it bolts to the hub. This allows you to retain the stock rotor position and caliper mounting. It costs $200 though.