Full floater bearing adjustment...

Jerry D. · 06-12-08, 01:09 PM

I just installed a NON-USA full floating rear axle from an FJ60 under my FJ40.

One difference is how the wheel bearings are adjusted on this full floater. Instead of the two large “nuts” and a keyed washer with locking tabs, this full floater has a keyed disk insert with small holes in it, and a thread on collar.

You first put on the bearings, then put the spindle onto the axle, then slip on the keyed disk insert, and thread on the collar. Then you tighten the collar and align it with the insert holes and then screw in two screws through the collar and into the small holes in the keyed disk to keep the collar from moving. Problem, or concern, is I cannot tighten the outer collar, like you would the front wheel bearing nut, and get two holes to align. It seems to be a bit loose when any of the holes are lined up. When the wheel is jacked up, there doesn't seem to be any play in the bearings, but I'm not wanting to drive it until I can learn if this is normal for the collar to be a bit loose or what the proper adjustment is. The collar was a bit loose when I received the axle.

What I need to know is how you tighten/adjust this bearing loading on this full floater. I know a picture is worth a thousand words, but I don’t have one at this time…

Jerry D.

Spike Strip · 06-12-08, 01:38 PM

Do you have the SST for the lock nut ? You need that to first tighten the threaded collar with the three holes ( to set preload) ... Then back off the collar.

Tool is OTC 09509-25011-01

Do a search and there's a link to the Toyota SPX site:

Just checked the Gregory's Manual: Says you have to first tighten to 60 N-M to seat the bearings, then back off the ring... And SST is relatively cheap, btw, maybe $30 shipped.

IH8Wood · 06-12-08, 02:48 PM

I think what your asking is how to get the collar tight enough and line up the holes for the lock screws. I first erred on the side of under-tightening the collar and my axle seal got deformed. Now I err on the side of over-tightening.

Jerry D. · 06-12-08, 03:02 PM

Thanks for the quick replies.

Spike…I don’t’ have the SST, and will order one, but right now I will fab one as I want to play this weekend. Can you tell me what the “60 N-M” means? And when you say back off the ring, is that to the first spot where the holes line up?

And IH8Wood… thanks for the info about the damage, I’ll get it correct before I drive it.

Jerry D.

Spike Strip · 06-12-08, 03:15 PM

Quoting from the Gregory's Manual:

"install the lock plate and the adjusting nut onto the stub axle, and while rotating the hub, tighten the adjusting nut to 60Nm to seat the bearings. Loosen the adjusting nut several turns then retighten the nut until there is a slight amount of preload and no bearing free play.

Using the illustration as an example, align the nearest adjusting nut slot (B) and the stub axle slot (A) by tightening, not loosening, the adj nut. With the adj nut in this position install the screws to the holes (C) that are at right angles to the adj nut and stub axle slots. Tighten the screws to specs."

Spike Strip · 06-12-08, 03:17 PM

I'm not sure if that helped.... Hope you speak Oz-anese.

Just in case you don't know (I didn't - at first) these are the stub slots they're talking about:

Jerry D. · 06-12-08, 03:47 PM

"Just a bolt in upgrade."

Well, I didn't know any of that, glad I didn't file off those nicks on the axle tube. Back to the garage and pull the axles and do it right. I assume the 60 N-M is something about 60 ? per meter in torque. I’ll look up some conversions tables/nomenclature and go from there.

Never stop learning…

Thanks again,

Jerry D.

Spike Strip · 06-12-08, 03:55 PM

Found my FSM : 43 ft-lbs or 59 Nm They just want you to seat the bearings, fully, so when you pretty-much finger-tighten the nut, there's no hidden play...

And it's funny you thought those were nicks, too... I did the same thing when I first took it apart -- I almost called MAF to yell at 'em they sold me a crap axle housing!

Tapage · 06-12-08, 03:56 PM

60 newtons/meter

Can you share pics of the hole asembly process ..

Jan-78FJ40 · 06-12-08, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry D.

"Just a bolt in upgrade."

Well, I didn't know any of that, glad I didn't file off those nicks on the axle tube. Back to the garage and pull the axles and do it right. I assume the 60 N-M is something about 60 ? per meter in torque. I’ll look up some conversions tables/nomenclature and go from there.

Never stop learning…

Thanks again,

Jerry D.

N-M stands for Newton-meter. Just a way to measure torque. Any respectable torque wrench will have both scales, N-M and kg/cm. or #/inch.

59 N-m equals 600 kg/cm equals 43 ft/lb

cheers,
J

Jerry D. · 06-12-08, 04:07 PM

Great input, thanks.

Got the figures, conversion info, pictures and what the end results should be. So tomorrow, Friday the 13th, back to the garage with the camera. I even bought four extra axle seals in case I rip up another one.

And I was thinking of doing a SAS under my FJC.

Jerry D.

GM60 · 06-13-08, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Found my FSM : 43 ft-lbs or 59 Nm They just want you to seat the bearings, fully, so when you pretty-much finger-tighten the nut, there's no hidden play...

No, that is not right.
First you torque the adjusting nut to spec to seat the bearings, then loosen the nut and then retighten to remove all movement at the bearing, then add a small amount of preload, then continue to TIGHTEN the nut untill one of the marks on the nut lines with one of the marks on the stub.
Install and tighten the two screws in the holes which are located at 90 degrees to the marks that you have aligned.
Never assemble these full floaters with finger tight setting at the adjusting nut.

Jerry D. · 06-13-08, 09:41 AM

Thanks to all your input and pictures, I completed the adjustment of my full floater axle this morning. Here are a few pics of what I did,

Jerry D.

Jerry D. · 06-13-08, 09:43 AM

Continue on...

Jerry D. · 06-13-08, 09:44 AM

and on...

Jerry D. · 06-13-08, 09:45 AM

and still on...

Jerry D. · 06-13-08, 09:47 AM

And the end. Now to get ready for Saturday...
Oh, I did put the axles back in.

Tnx,

Jerry D.

ontherox · 06-13-08, 09:53 AM

How do i get one of these full float axles??

Jerry D. · 06-13-08, 01:05 PM

First, get out of bed

, if non here on Mud, look at SOR or Man-a-Fre.
Check credit card balance.

There's also a kit out there that modifies the SF axle to a FF (and you can put lockout hubs on those), cost about the same depending on shipping charges etc.

Jerry D.

Spike Strip · 06-13-08, 01:13 PM

Nice work, Jerry, on the tool fab and rebuild.... Now ya wanna come and do mine

And this SF to FF kit of which you speaketh, where is it available from?

And incidentally, a Newton Meter is how many fig-cookies one can fit into 3.3 feet.

OK, sorry -- It's Friday -- AND THE THIRTEENTH

!!!

S.

Spike Strip · 06-13-08, 01:15 PM

And SOR just got in a bunch of FF's -- from Oz -- Git 'em while they're hot!

Jerry D. · 06-13-08, 01:59 PM

Spike, this is what I saw,

Front Range Off-Road Fabrication

Looks to give some options a regular FF doesn't have...

Jerry D.

Spike Strip · 06-30-08, 10:54 AM

Jerry,

The lock screws -- FSM calls for 7 Nm torque -- Did you just get 'em hand-tight? Use any loctite?

S.

Jerry D. · 06-30-08, 12:01 PM

A good solid hand tight, and I did use lock tight.

Still together after it's first run, will put more to test this 4th of July weekend.

Jerry D.

Spike Strip · 07-01-08, 10:58 AM

All done... Thanks, Jerry, for the help.

And a little Cruiser Porn:

06-12-08, 01:09 PM	#1
Jerry D. IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Citrus Springs, Florida TLCA# 7234 Posts: 192	Full floater bearing adjustment... I just installed a NON-USA full floating rear axle from an FJ60 under my FJ40. One difference is how the wheel bearings are adjusted on this full floater. Instead of the two large “nuts” and a keyed washer with locking tabs, this full floater has a keyed disk insert with small holes in it, and a thread on collar. You first put on the bearings, then put the spindle onto the axle, then slip on the keyed disk insert, and thread on the collar. Then you tighten the collar and align it with the insert holes and then screw in two screws through the collar and into the small holes in the keyed disk to keep the collar from moving. Problem, or concern, is I cannot tighten the outer collar, like you would the front wheel bearing nut, and get two holes to align. It seems to be a bit loose when any of the holes are lined up. When the wheel is jacked up, there doesn't seem to be any play in the bearings, but I'm not wanting to drive it until I can learn if this is normal for the collar to be a bit loose or what the proper adjustment is. The collar was a bit loose when I received the axle. What I need to know is how you tighten/adjust this bearing loading on this full floater. I know a picture is worth a thousand words, but I don’t have one at this time… Jerry D. __________________ 1968 FJ40 - 2F, H41, ToyBox, 3 speed Xfer, 4.88’s, ARB's front and rear, York air, Saginaw PS w/Toyota pump, disk brakes around, Warn winch, Trail Gear 6 bolt knuckles, 4X4 Labs high steer, 38.5X14.5 TXL/SX, full cage, 3” body lift, 4” suspension lift, FF rear axle. 2007 FJCruiser: empty bank account. Member: Toyota Land Cruiser Association; Florida Land Cruiser Association; FL4WDA

06-12-08, 01:38 PM	#2
Spike Strip Just try and git it. Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Fernando Valley, CA TLCA# 17876 Posts: 948	Do you have the SST for the lock nut ? You need that to first tighten the threaded collar with the three holes ( to set preload) ... Then back off the collar. Tool is OTC 09509-25011-01 Do a search and there's a link to the Toyota SPX site: Just checked the Gregory's Manual: Says you have to first tighten to 60 N-M to seat the bearings, then back off the ring... And SST is relatively cheap, btw, maybe $30 shipped. Attached Images __________________ BEST WWII STORY EVER WRITTEN Last edited by Spike Strip; 06-12-08 at 01:52 PM.

06-12-08, 03:02 PM	#4
Jerry D. IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Citrus Springs, Florida TLCA# 7234 Posts: 192	Thanks for the quick replies. Spike…I don’t’ have the SST, and will order one, but right now I will fab one as I want to play this weekend. Can you tell me what the “60 N-M” means? And when you say back off the ring, is that to the first spot where the holes line up? And IH8Wood… thanks for the info about the damage, I’ll get it correct before I drive it. Jerry D. __________________ 1968 FJ40 - 2F, H41, ToyBox, 3 speed Xfer, 4.88’s, ARB's front and rear, York air, Saginaw PS w/Toyota pump, disk brakes around, Warn winch, Trail Gear 6 bolt knuckles, 4X4 Labs high steer, 38.5X14.5 TXL/SX, full cage, 3” body lift, 4” suspension lift, FF rear axle. 2007 FJCruiser: empty bank account. Member: Toyota Land Cruiser Association; Florida Land Cruiser Association; FL4WDA

06-12-08, 03:15 PM	#5
Spike Strip Just try and git it. Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Fernando Valley, CA TLCA# 17876 Posts: 948	Quoting from the Gregory's Manual: "install the lock plate and the adjusting nut onto the stub axle, and while rotating the hub, tighten the adjusting nut to 60Nm to seat the bearings. Loosen the adjusting nut several turns then retighten the nut until there is a slight amount of preload and no bearing free play. Using the illustration as an example, align the nearest adjusting nut slot (B) and the stub axle slot (A) by tightening, not loosening, the adj nut. With the adj nut in this position install the screws to the holes (C) that are at right angles to the adj nut and stub axle slots. Tighten the screws to specs." Attached Images __________________ BEST WWII STORY EVER WRITTEN

06-12-08, 03:17 PM	#6
Spike Strip Just try and git it. Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Fernando Valley, CA TLCA# 17876 Posts: 948	I'm not sure if that helped.... Hope you speak Oz-anese. Just in case you don't know (I didn't - at first) these are the stub slots they're talking about: Attached Images __________________ BEST WWII STORY EVER WRITTEN Last edited by Spike Strip; 06-12-08 at 03:24 PM.

06-12-08, 02:48 PM	#3
IH8Wood IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Altadena CA TLCA# 15015 Posts: 391	I think what your asking is how to get the collar tight enough and line up the holes for the lock screws. I first erred on the side of under-tightening the collar and my axle seal got deformed. Now I err on the side of over-tightening.

06-12-08, 03:47 PM	#7
Jerry D. IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Citrus Springs, Florida TLCA# 7234 Posts: 192	"Just a bolt in upgrade." Well, I didn't know any of that, glad I didn't file off those nicks on the axle tube. Back to the garage and pull the axles and do it right. I assume the 60 N-M is something about 60 ? per meter in torque. I’ll look up some conversions tables/nomenclature and go from there. Never stop learning… Thanks again, Jerry D. __________________ 1968 FJ40 - 2F, H41, ToyBox, 3 speed Xfer, 4.88’s, ARB's front and rear, York air, Saginaw PS w/Toyota pump, disk brakes around, Warn winch, Trail Gear 6 bolt knuckles, 4X4 Labs high steer, 38.5X14.5 TXL/SX, full cage, 3” body lift, 4” suspension lift, FF rear axle. 2007 FJCruiser: empty bank account. Member: Toyota Land Cruiser Association; Florida Land Cruiser Association; FL4WDA

06-12-08, 03:55 PM	#8
Spike Strip Just try and git it. Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Fernando Valley, CA TLCA# 17876 Posts: 948	Found my FSM : 43 ft-lbs or 59 Nm They just want you to seat the bearings, fully, so when you pretty-much finger-tighten the nut, there's no hidden play... And it's funny you thought those were nicks, too... I did the same thing when I first took it apart -- I almost called MAF to yell at 'em they sold me a crap axle housing! __________________ BEST WWII STORY EVER WRITTEN

06-12-08, 04:07 PM	#11
Jerry D. IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Citrus Springs, Florida TLCA# 7234 Posts: 192	Great input, thanks. Got the figures, conversion info, pictures and what the end results should be. So tomorrow, Friday the 13th, back to the garage with the camera. I even bought four extra axle seals in case I rip up another one. And I was thinking of doing a SAS under my FJC. Jerry D. __________________ 1968 FJ40 - 2F, H41, ToyBox, 3 speed Xfer, 4.88’s, ARB's front and rear, York air, Saginaw PS w/Toyota pump, disk brakes around, Warn winch, Trail Gear 6 bolt knuckles, 4X4 Labs high steer, 38.5X14.5 TXL/SX, full cage, 3” body lift, 4” suspension lift, FF rear axle. 2007 FJCruiser: empty bank account. Member: Toyota Land Cruiser Association; Florida Land Cruiser Association; FL4WDA

06-13-08, 09:41 AM	#13
Jerry D. IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Citrus Springs, Florida TLCA# 7234 Posts: 192	Thanks to all your input and pictures, I completed the adjustment of my full floater axle this morning. Here are a few pics of what I did, Jerry D. Attached Images __________________ 1968 FJ40 - 2F, H41, ToyBox, 3 speed Xfer, 4.88’s, ARB's front and rear, York air, Saginaw PS w/Toyota pump, disk brakes around, Warn winch, Trail Gear 6 bolt knuckles, 4X4 Labs high steer, 38.5X14.5 TXL/SX, full cage, 3” body lift, 4” suspension lift, FF rear axle. 2007 FJCruiser: empty bank account. Member: Toyota Land Cruiser Association; Florida Land Cruiser Association; FL4WDA

06-13-08, 09:43 AM	#14
Jerry D. IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Citrus Springs, Florida TLCA# 7234 Posts: 192	Continue on... Attached Images __________________ 1968 FJ40 - 2F, H41, ToyBox, 3 speed Xfer, 4.88’s, ARB's front and rear, York air, Saginaw PS w/Toyota pump, disk brakes around, Warn winch, Trail Gear 6 bolt knuckles, 4X4 Labs high steer, 38.5X14.5 TXL/SX, full cage, 3” body lift, 4” suspension lift, FF rear axle. 2007 FJCruiser: empty bank account. Member: Toyota Land Cruiser Association; Florida Land Cruiser Association; FL4WDA

06-13-08, 09:44 AM	#15
Jerry D. IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Citrus Springs, Florida TLCA# 7234 Posts: 192	and on... Attached Images __________________ 1968 FJ40 - 2F, H41, ToyBox, 3 speed Xfer, 4.88’s, ARB's front and rear, York air, Saginaw PS w/Toyota pump, disk brakes around, Warn winch, Trail Gear 6 bolt knuckles, 4X4 Labs high steer, 38.5X14.5 TXL/SX, full cage, 3” body lift, 4” suspension lift, FF rear axle. 2007 FJCruiser: empty bank account. Member: Toyota Land Cruiser Association; Florida Land Cruiser Association; FL4WDA

06-13-08, 09:45 AM	#16
Jerry D. IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Citrus Springs, Florida TLCA# 7234 Posts: 192	and still on... Attached Images __________________ 1968 FJ40 - 2F, H41, ToyBox, 3 speed Xfer, 4.88’s, ARB's front and rear, York air, Saginaw PS w/Toyota pump, disk brakes around, Warn winch, Trail Gear 6 bolt knuckles, 4X4 Labs high steer, 38.5X14.5 TXL/SX, full cage, 3” body lift, 4” suspension lift, FF rear axle. 2007 FJCruiser: empty bank account. Member: Toyota Land Cruiser Association; Florida Land Cruiser Association; FL4WDA

06-13-08, 09:47 AM	#17
Jerry D. IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Citrus Springs, Florida TLCA# 7234 Posts: 192	And the end. Now to get ready for Saturday... Oh, I did put the axles back in. Tnx, Jerry D. Attached Images __________________ 1968 FJ40 - 2F, H41, ToyBox, 3 speed Xfer, 4.88’s, ARB's front and rear, York air, Saginaw PS w/Toyota pump, disk brakes around, Warn winch, Trail Gear 6 bolt knuckles, 4X4 Labs high steer, 38.5X14.5 TXL/SX, full cage, 3” body lift, 4” suspension lift, FF rear axle. 2007 FJCruiser: empty bank account. Member: Toyota Land Cruiser Association; Florida Land Cruiser Association; FL4WDA

06-13-08, 09:53 AM	#18
ontherox Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: In bed humping Posts: 175	How do i get one of these full float axles??

06-13-08, 01:05 PM	#19
Jerry D. IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Citrus Springs, Florida TLCA# 7234 Posts: 192	First, get out of bed, if non here on Mud, look at SOR or Man-a-Fre. Check credit card balance. There's also a kit out there that modifies the SF axle to a FF (and you can put lockout hubs on those), cost about the same depending on shipping charges etc. Jerry D. __________________ 1968 FJ40 - 2F, H41, ToyBox, 3 speed Xfer, 4.88’s, ARB's front and rear, York air, Saginaw PS w/Toyota pump, disk brakes around, Warn winch, Trail Gear 6 bolt knuckles, 4X4 Labs high steer, 38.5X14.5 TXL/SX, full cage, 3” body lift, 4” suspension lift, FF rear axle. 2007 FJCruiser: empty bank account. Member: Toyota Land Cruiser Association; Florida Land Cruiser Association; FL4WDA

06-13-08, 01:13 PM	#20
Spike Strip Just try and git it. Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Fernando Valley, CA TLCA# 17876 Posts: 948	Nice work, Jerry, on the tool fab and rebuild.... Now ya wanna come and do mine And this SF to FF kit of which you speaketh, where is it available from? And incidentally, a Newton Meter is how many fig-cookies one can fit into 3.3 feet. OK, sorry -- It's Friday -- AND THE THIRTEENTH !!! S. __________________ BEST WWII STORY EVER WRITTEN

06-13-08, 01:15 PM	#21
Spike Strip Just try and git it. Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Fernando Valley, CA TLCA# 17876 Posts: 948	And SOR just got in a bunch of FF's -- from Oz -- Git 'em while they're hot! __________________ BEST WWII STORY EVER WRITTEN

06-13-08, 01:59 PM	#22
Jerry D. IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Citrus Springs, Florida TLCA# 7234 Posts: 192	Spike, this is what I saw, Front Range Off-Road Fabrication Looks to give some options a regular FF doesn't have... Jerry D. __________________ 1968 FJ40 - 2F, H41, ToyBox, 3 speed Xfer, 4.88’s, ARB's front and rear, York air, Saginaw PS w/Toyota pump, disk brakes around, Warn winch, Trail Gear 6 bolt knuckles, 4X4 Labs high steer, 38.5X14.5 TXL/SX, full cage, 3” body lift, 4” suspension lift, FF rear axle. 2007 FJCruiser: empty bank account. Member: Toyota Land Cruiser Association; Florida Land Cruiser Association; FL4WDA

06-30-08, 10:54 AM	#23
Spike Strip Just try and git it. Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Fernando Valley, CA TLCA# 17876 Posts: 948	Jerry, The lock screws -- FSM calls for 7 Nm torque -- Did you just get 'em hand-tight? Use any loctite? S. __________________ BEST WWII STORY EVER WRITTEN

06-30-08, 12:01 PM	#24
Jerry D. IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Citrus Springs, Florida TLCA# 7234 Posts: 192	A good solid hand tight, and I did use lock tight. Still together after it's first run, will put more to test this 4th of July weekend. Jerry D. __________________ 1968 FJ40 - 2F, H41, ToyBox, 3 speed Xfer, 4.88’s, ARB's front and rear, York air, Saginaw PS w/Toyota pump, disk brakes around, Warn winch, Trail Gear 6 bolt knuckles, 4X4 Labs high steer, 38.5X14.5 TXL/SX, full cage, 3” body lift, 4” suspension lift, FF rear axle. 2007 FJCruiser: empty bank account. Member: Toyota Land Cruiser Association; Florida Land Cruiser Association; FL4WDA

07-01-08, 10:58 AM	#25
Spike Strip Just try and git it. Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Fernando Valley, CA TLCA# 17876 Posts: 948	All done... Thanks, Jerry, for the help. And a little Cruiser Porn: Attached Images __________________ BEST WWII STORY EVER WRITTEN