Can we make a exhaust/intake manifold sticky?

Spike Strip · 12-16-08, 07:58 PM

Hank, as Joe stated, it's sandwiched (in green) btwn the intake and exh... I used a replacement Stainless plate from SOR -- But it won't allow the butterfly valve to close (stuck in the open position or remove the flap). Fine for warm climes like mine, but slows engine warming if you're in a colder area.

SOR INSULATOR LINK

hank14 · 12-16-08, 08:43 PM

That makes sense. I've seen that part on SOR before, but didn't understand what it was for. It's hard to visualize how some of these things go together and function without taking it apart.

I'm getting ready to replace my intake/exhaust gasket next week, and wanted to make sure I didn't need this part or screw up the one I have.

Spanky Pete · 12-29-08, 08:41 AM

I am trying to fix a minor intake leak. I was originally just going to retorque the intake bolts/nuts, but now I have the carb, heatshield, air rail off, and I am thinking of replacing the intake/exhaust manifold gasket (1 fel-pro). Can I simply remove mounting bolts/nuts and pull exhust/intake assembly back off the head far enough to get a gasket in there or do I need to disconnect the exhuast down tube and EGR stuff? I would like to do nice complete tear down and build up like Spike Strips, but for now I just want to get the thing back together without that pesky intake leak.

"Can I simply remove mounting bolts/nuts and pull exhust/intake assembly back off the head far enough to get a gasket in there or do I need to disconnect the exhuast down tube and EGR stuff?"

Spike Strip · 12-29-08, 09:26 AM

Assy has to be pulled back far enough for the gasket to fit over the studs. Can you do that without removing the down pipe ? Dunno. I doubt it.. But you can leave the cooler tubes attached, and remove the bolts to the cooler (finned cast thing attached to the block), that will allow the manifold assy to slide back -- with the down tube anchor points at the bellhousing removed. Maybe...

But -BUT - you have the leak for a reason: You're going to need to check the straightness of the mating surface of the intake/exh combo, or the leak could possibly return quickly if the surface isn't true. That's why some people go with double gaskets. I have no experience with that.

It's such a PITA to remove that Bast*rd, I don't see why anyone wouldn't want to do it right the first time and be done with it.

2mbb · 12-29-08, 10:10 AM

I'm pretty sure I've dropped in a gasket without removing the exhaust manifold from the down tube. However, I probably removed the studs to do so. Removal of studs is the same as I described in your other thread about your intake leaks. double jam nut the stud to remove or install. You may need to use thinner nuts to get two on the exposed portion of the thread.

Another thing that might work is to remove the bolts (2 circled in blue) that hold the EGR cooler onto the block and remove the forward clamp that holds the exhaust pipe to the frame. This may give you enough movement to clear the studs.

NorthernAlpine · 01-07-09, 12:19 PM

Hey gents - are any of you hooligans running aftermarket exhaust parts - I am looking to see what everyone else has, I could give a s*** about how it sounds as opposed to functionality. Just looking for your guys .02

Scotty · 01-07-09, 11:32 PM

This may be another option. I swear by these on my 22RE motors with headers. The gaskets are NOT cheap, but work amazingly well and I have never had an issue with them after install.

Remflex Header gaskets.

They make an intake/exhaust manifold for a 2F here:
TOYOTA Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket

hank14 · 01-12-09, 12:13 PM

What is the torque spec for the intake to exhaust manifold bolts?

I have my intake/exhaust assembly off now. This would not be too difficult, but I broke one of the bolts to the EGR down pipe. The PO of my 60 had a Toyota dealership work on the J-tube leak at least 3 times, replacing the actual pipe w/ a new OEM one twice. The must have removed the studs in the exhaust manifold and replaced them with bolts. One of them broke right off. So did my extractor when I seated it in the broken stud and tried to loosen the bolt. Nothing like spending hours on one bolt to test my patience!

The Nut where that holds the J-tube into the EGR cooler was frozen solid as well.

At this point, I'm not sure if I'm going to separate the intake and exhaust manifolds to replace those 2 gaskets. I am going to retorque them and see how it looks.

kenleyf · 01-12-09, 07:38 PM

I will try to post a picture soon but I think I have this problem with my '89 FJ62. Basically since I have owned the truck there has been a persistent foul odor after I have driven it for a while. The odor is one of burnt oil but the truck does not run low on oil between oil changes. When I look up at the manifolds there seems to be an accumulation of oil near the manifolds. It is not enough to cause a drip but the bolts seem to have oil on them and there appears to be burnt oil around where the manifold meets the head(?).

Please forgive my ignorance but is it this a sure sign of a leaking manifold? If I just want to replace the gasket how many bananas is this job?

I will try to post a pic soon to give you all something more to go on.

Thanks for any help sent my way.

Kenley

terranceeriley · 01-13-09, 02:43 AM

Hm. How the frick do i get that end exhaust bolt? the one that is up near the firewall?

hank14 · 01-13-09, 04:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by terranceeriley

Hm. How the frick do i get that end exhaust bolt? the one that is up near the firewall?

For me, I experimented with a combination of different sockets, wobbler, and extensions. It was not easy. I'm not sure how I'm going to torque it back down when I reinstall the assembly.

hank14 · 01-13-09, 04:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenleyf

I will try to post a picture soon but I think I have this problem with my '89 FJ62. Basically since I have owned the truck there has been a persistent foul odor after I have driven it for a while. The odor is one of burnt oil but the truck does not run low on oil between oil changes. When I look up at the manifolds there seems to be an accumulation of oil near the manifolds. It is not enough to cause a drip but the bolts seem to have oil on them and there appears to be burnt oil around where the manifold meets the head(?).

Please forgive my ignorance but is it this a sure sign of a leaking manifold? If I just want to replace the gasket how many bananas is this job?

I'm not 100% on a 62, but on the 2F FJ60, leaking intake and exhaust gasket should not cause oil leaking. I would expect you have either a valve cover leak or a head gasket. Time for some degreaser to clean it all up, then watch to see where the new oil is coming from.

I'm not sure how many

for the intake and exhaust. I'll have a better idea once I finish and see how it runs. I always add at least one

if I have to pull it apart and redo something after my first attempt.

hank14 · 01-13-09, 04:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hank14

What is the torque spec for the intake to exhaust manifold bolts?

At this point, I'm not sure if I'm going to separate the intake and exhaust manifolds to replace those 2 gaskets. I am going to retorque them and see how it looks.

Bump for the torque #'s. Where is replacement and separation of the manifolds covered in the factory service manuals?

Should the intake and exhaust always be separated to replace the other 2 gaskets when replacing the intake/exhaust gasket?

trucruiser · 01-13-09, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spanky Pete

"Can I simply remove mounting bolts/nuts and pull exhust/intake assembly back off the head far enough to get a gasket in there or do I need to disconnect the exhuast down tube and EGR stuff?"

When I did my head gasket I was able to pull the assy out far enough to drop another gasket in there, its a pretty tight fit, you may need someone pulling out a little while you concentrate on the gasket.

hank14 · 01-13-09, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hank14

Bump for the torque #'s. Where is replacement and separation of the manifolds covered in the factory service manuals?

Should the intake and exhaust always be separated to replace the other 2 gaskets when replacing the intake/exhaust gasket?

Anyone know where this info is in the FSM?

hank14 · 01-16-09, 05:15 AM

Looks like I'm flying solo. I'm trying to reinstall my manifold. Used Copper high temp gasket sealant and blue locktite on the bolts and nuts. 2 pieces of advice:

1. Might as well remove the back power steering pump mounting bolt and cut it off as described in other threads while the exhaust manifold is off. Should make removal of the pump easier in the future.
2. Make sure you clean the bolt holes in the head for the exhaust manifold bolts before you install the manifold. I did not, and I'm having a very difficult time starting the back 2 bolts- they will not thread. I'm going to get 2 new bolts and try that first. If that doesn't work, I'll find a tap and try to rethread the holes. If that doesn't work, I think I'm screwed.

Any other thoughts?

jfnall · 01-16-09, 07:07 AM

i ran a tap in the holes first. bolts hand-threaded in. the tap is a 10mmx1.25.

I am running a MAF ceramic header (2 pc) . didn't do any research on MUD before i installed it. What I didn't realize was the intake and exhaust flanges were different thicknesses. AND the MAF header doesn't use all the holes the OEM exhaust does. SO, what i am doing now is having to go back and install bolts and washers in those holes, even though they don't actually go through the headers or intake flanges. just holding pressure on the header.

I used the MAF gasket they recommended. "You won't have any trouble." whatever. Use all the holes to hold pressure on the headers in as many places as possible.

and make sure the flanges are the same thicknesses. I will have to shim a couple. If I would have cone some research and known all this while it was on the engine stand, I would have shaved alittle off the back side of the bolt holes on the intake so they matched the slightly thinner MAF header flange thickness.

Hondo352 · 10-27-09, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spike Strip

Hank, as Joe stated, it's sandwiched (in green) btwn the intake and exh... I used a replacement Stainless plate from SOR -- But it won't allow the butterfly valve to close (stuck in the open position or remove the flap). Fine for warm climes like mine, but slows engine warming if you're in a colder area.

SOR INSULATOR LINK

Can a gasket be used to replace the deflector plate?
Thanks
John

Spike Strip · 10-27-09, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hondo352

Can a gasket be used to replace the deflector plate?
Thanks
John

I'm not quite sure what you're asking...

If you mean can you remove the plate and just use the gaskets, I suppose so... But you probably want something there to deflect the hot exhaust away from the intake.

Hondo352 · 10-28-09, 06:25 AM

I did not know that the SS plate acts as an insulator for the intake. Thanks for the help as I'm a noob and the learning curve is large.
Thanks
John

Gurr · 10-28-09, 01:56 PM

Here's the torques!!!

Spike Strip · 10-28-09, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hondo352

I did not know that the SS plate acts as an insulator for the intake. Thanks for the help as I'm a noob and the learning curve is large.
Thanks
John

There's a factory plate in there already, in addition to the butterfly heat riser. That plate is usually broken in a couple pieces as it's thin tin. The SOR one is a little thicker and SS. It's really made as a block off plate if you use header. Only problem with it, as stated, is you will have to lock the heat riser in the open (hot) position. If you're in a cold area, could delay cold weather starts.. The stock plate is convex, to allow for movement of the flap.

Some people just cut their own plate... Don't have to use SS.

If your stock plate is good, just reuse it.

Hondo352 · 10-28-09, 08:08 PM

I took a gasket and used it as a template and made my as close to the stock plate as possible using a dremel with a cut-off wheel. Now she runs a whole lot better. Now its on to the next issue.
Thanks
John

Gurr · 11-07-09, 03:32 PM

oh wait, those weren't the torques you were looking for. Sorry.

hank14 · 11-07-09, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gurr

oh wait, those weren't the torques you were looking for. Sorry.

No problem. I'll post some pictures of my rebuilt manifold later. I just torqued the 2 manifolds down "good and tight." Tightening a bolt into the threaded aluminum intake made me nervous.