Broken hub dowel pin removal? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 15, 2007
Threads
2
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50
Location
Durango, CO
A couple of days ago I broke a birfield out wheelin. Thanks to the wonderful tech files on Mud I actually believe I can pull this repair off myself despite being mechanically challenged. Keep your fingers crossed. When I took the hub off I found one of the dowel pins was broken.

This first picture shows the broken dowel pin at the top with the intact one at the bottom.

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This second picture shows a close up of the broken one. Sorry it's a little blurry, but you get the idea.

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How do I get that thing out of there without buggerin stuff up? Is it even necessary to take it out?
 
meh most of the force it on the studs i personally wouldnt really worry about it.

tho it does make me currious how a dowl pin busted...
 
yeah, you should take it out. Those things are damn hard (hardened steel). You can try putting the hub in a drill press and drilling it (pin) out....start with a small bit and work up so you dont get into the hub itself. You'll need really good bits and be able to re-sharpen them. once you get the pin drilled down to a fairly thin wall, run a big screw into it and see if it will turn and you may be able to work it out. This may or may nor work, but its a place to start. That hub is the same on all toyotas, so it may be easier just to go get a new one from a junk yard. Take yours with just to be sure its the same.
Luck
 
I'm kind of leaning towards just leaving it in there and not worrying about it. Why do you say I need to take it out? I'm curious what function they perform and it does make me wonder how it broke in the first place.
 
If you really want it out you can take it to a machine shop that does broken bolt and stud removals. The same process should work for the dowel. I doubt it will be cheaper than 80 bucks or so. If you try to do it yourself you will need a carbide drill bit or at the very lease, a cobalt one and the ability to resharpen it. You cold try welding a small bolt to it and pulling/twisting at the same time too, if you have enough access to it. Good luck.
 
The dowel pins are case hardened, they are hard on the outside and very soft on the inside, you can easily drill it out yourself with a hand drill..
 
Theres your answer from a guy that knows metal. Drill it out. theyre there for a reason.
 
Hey!

Another Durangotang!

You get this bad boy out yet?

BTW, there is a ChokeCherry Canyon Clean-up run this Sat. starting at 8
if you are interested....It's a great place to wheel, now if we could just get the yellow-platers to stop dumping chairs and washers there. That's what front yards are for!
 
I haven't got it out yet, but I haven't tried either. I'm planning on taking it out though. I'm guessing I order a new one from Cruiser Dan?

Thanks for the invite on the clean up, but I'm in Vail all weekend for a conference. I did get some early morning back country skiing in today though, so it's not too bad.

Have you ever been to the Rock Garden in Aztec? That place rocks, and there isn't any garbage because it's far enough away from Farmington. That's were I broke my birfield.
 
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I haven't got it out yet, but I haven't tried either. I'm planning on taking it out though. I'm guessing I order a new one from Cruiser Dan?

Thanks for the invite on the clean up, but I'm in Vail all weekend for a conference. I did get some early morning back country skiing in today though, so it's not too bad.

Have you ever been to the Rock Garden in Aztec? That place rocks, and there isn't any garbage because it's far enough away from Farmington. That's were I broke my birfield.

Should be fun, We are (Steamworks) pouring this weekend in Aspen for the Food & Wine Classic and pouring at Silverton Jamboree.

I've been to the Rock Gardens, and saw IROC there a couple years ago. That place will definitely break stock birfs. Time to get some longfields
 
X2 on taking it to a machine shop, if you don't want to do it yourself -- Should only be 30 bucks or so... You can put the new one in... I never have any luck drilling stuff like that out (Maybe 'cuz I keep buying cheap drill bits from Harbor Freight!)

An option : If there's a machine shop around you that does EDM (Electronic Dischage Machining) they can zap that hole clean is two minutes.

You can buy a kit from various dealers that has replacement studs, cone washers, nuts and dowels, per side.

Can't tell from the pic, but are all the studs good?

S.
 
That place will definitely break stock birfs. Time to get some longfields

They're at home waiting for me to put them in.

Spike Strip; said:
but are all the studs good?
I think so, but if I have to order a new dowel I'll probably order new ones of those too. I might as well do EVERYTHING while I'm in there.
 
The dowel pins are case hardened, they are hard on the outside and very soft on the inside, you can easily drill it out yourself with a hand drill..

FWIW, there is another option, albeit a "guesswork" approach. We don't know how long the dowel is, however, the hole would have been drilled and then reamed. The drill has a point, the reamer doesn't. Drilling and tapping for a 4-40 screw requires knowing how deep the pin is. But, for conversation and/or future reference, you roll up a small amount of modeling clay, stick it in the hole and run your 4-40 screw in. Repeat as many times as required. This will "hydraulic" the pin out of the hole. I'm faced with this problem today. For some reason a previous owner hammered the face of the hub between the studs and dowels. Threads on the studs were messed up and Toyota got me again on the right side knuckle studs. Instead of 10mm they are 11mm, and unknown entity for obtaining a tap and die.
 
Studs and pins multiple times. Reverse drill bit and easy out has worked well. Haven’t bothered with replacing the pins also haven’t had breakage problems since pin removal

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I would take these 4 options into consideration. 1. Get another hub. 2. Drill it to bigger size and put 100 series 10mm dowels. 3. Weld on to top of the stub little by little until it protrudes and weld a bolt to it. Apply high heat to hub body with wd40 twist and pull. 4. Drill 2 new holes at different place and put new dowels. Drilling is obviously best done on a drill press.
 
I’d get another hub, put ARP studs in it if your gonna lock the front and run long fields. Pretty common deal in wheeling mini trucks . It’s one reason I won’t put a locker in the front of my 60, I’ve busted a lot of front end parts over the years of wheeling 40’s and minis, you need to deciede what you want to let go first, if you wheel hard enough your gonna break, and designing a “fuse” is smart. When I wheeled big, ie: chrome moly Dana 60’s with 43’s I ran and carried spare cheaper lockouts with a lifetime warranty where they would pop before something internal and expensive did.
 
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