radiator / trany cooler install soon - few basic questions

[Randy88FJ62]

I am going to be replacing my radiator on my 1988 FJ62 within the next week or two. I had the option of a same size plastic one or a 4” oversized brass one meant for a 1989 FJ62 for the same price. I went with the oversize one and I’ll make new brackets (this will require trimming the battery tray and moving the overflow tank closer to the silencer.) I also bought a trany cooler and will be installing it in series per instructions. Trany cooler and new brass radiator cost me $315 from American Radiator in San Fernando Valley, CA. Great guys, good service, and good price since he buys radiators in bulk. I also plan on doing Rodney’s complete fluid flush while at it since I’m changing the fluid.

I have a few basic questions:

1. We have the radiator fluid going to and from the trany. How does that interact with the trany fluid? I assume it’s just like the engine and the anti-freeze runs around the trany in different ports?

2. Any other good things to do while I have the radiator out? Is the fan shroud mod pretty quick to do? I will be replacing all three belts while in there and it should give me a little more working room as well.

3. Can someone post a link to the best fan shroud mod?

As always, thanks for all the insight and your patience with these general repeat questions.

[Wile E Coyote]

1. Wrong way bro. Trans fluid circulates through the rad, not the other way round. There's a separate tank inside the rad that the trans fluid circulates through.
2. Fan shroud mod is < half-banana job. Do a full coolant system flush, and strongly consider replacing all the hoses. I seem to have read there are 20 or so??
3.It's in the 60 series FAQ's, but here's the linky >>>>>> http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...an-shroud.html

[Wile E Coyote]

Randy, you mean to say your present rad is plastic (plastic tanks, no doubt), and roughly 4" narrower that the brass one you will replace it with? If so, would you care to post a pic of the present rad? I've not heard there were any optional rads in the 62?

[Randy88FJ62]

Thanks for the fluid explanation. That makes a lot more sense now. My current radiator is the original brass one. It looks to have been repaired via flux in its lifetime. When I talked on the phone to the radiator guy he said I had two replacement options:
1. Plastic radiator that fit a 1988 and previous.
2. Brass one that was 4" width oversize (he said this was for 1989 models up to 1992 FJ80's.)
He may be wrong. Since I wanted brass I choose the bigger one and I will modify to fit. I will try and post pictures later tonight of all the parts. The previous owner put new hoses on so i'll check and see if they look new and flexy.
I'll check out the fan shroud mod. Looks like I'll be modifying it to fit the new radiator at the same time so might as well...

[skipperdick]

Do the water pump at the same time especially if it looks origional. I replaced my belts and hoses and a couple of weeks later my pump started leaking through the wheep hole. Your in there anyway and the hoses alone are a major PIA. If by chance you buy the hose kit from SOR throw away the hose clamps that they give you because they are a POS and require constant retightening. Do it right do it once !

[Randy88FJ62]

P.O. put on new thermostat and housing and new water pump so I think I'm ok. Thanks though.

[WES1977]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

Thanks for the fluid explanation. That makes a lot more sense now. My current radiator is the original brass one. It looks to have been repaired via flux in its lifetime. When I talked on the phone to the radiator guy he said I had two replacement options:
1. Plastic radiator that fit a 1988 and previous.
2. Brass one that was 4" width oversize (he said this was for 1989 models up to 1992 FJ80's.)
He may be wrong. Since I wanted brass I choose the bigger one and I will modify to fit. I will try and post pictures later tonight of all the parts. The previous owner put new hoses on so i'll check and see if they look new and flexy.
I'll check out the fan shroud mod. Looks like I'll be modifying it to fit the new radiator at the same time so might as well...

I say try to take it back and get the right size brass one from somewhere else. I haven't looked them up yet for my 88 fj62 but I bet they're not that hard to find.

$270 Radiators, automotive radiators, condenser, oem radiators, truck radiators

[Randy88FJ62]

Originally Posted by WES1977

I say try to take it back and get the right size brass one from somewhere else. I haven't looked them up yet for my 88 fj62 but I bet they're not that hard to find.

$270 Radiators, automotive radiators, condenser, oem radiators, truck radiators

I looked for 1 week and most radiator places would quote over $400 for a new brass one. This was a cheap brass so I rather save $ and mod a little.
Who has found a 1988 brass stock fit for under $300? It's harder than you think. Two shops said that they couldn't even find a replacement so I didn't even talk to them after that.
Of all my calls this guy has history with my Dad's company and had the best deal.
I'm still open to other ideas though.

[WES1977]

What is this one made of?

[Wile E Coyote]

Randy, I'm not aware that the 88 year is any diff than the 89-up. Here's a cool cruiser's of Texas linky that shows a common bolt-in rad.
Radiators
Two issues some guys have reported with this rad (same one avail from more than just CCOT) are shipping damage, and the filler neck having a less than 90 deg orientation on the upper tank(makes for slower filling) otherwise it requires no mods. Just bolt the old mounts from the old rad, and install.
I installed one from Radiator Barn listed above over 2 yrs ago, and it too was a bolt-in affair. A few things your supplier is saying ain't jiving.

[89GASHOG]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

2. Brass one that was 4" width oversize (he said this was for 1989 models up to 1992 FJ80's.)
He may be wrong...

Pretty sure the 1991-92 radiator for the 3FE in the FJ80 is bigger, but the 1988-1990 FJ62 radiators for the 3FE are definitely the same size as one another.
Edit: I'm one of the guys who got the CCOT $300 radiator with a bent filler neck. Fortunately, it's working fine.

[Randy88FJ62]

I will take pics and get dimensions so that you guys can solve this mystery for me.
-Randy

[Randy88FJ62]

My guess is that the radiator the guy got me is for an FJ80.

[Wile E Coyote]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

I will take pics and get dimensions so that you guys can solve this mystery for me.
-Randy

Take your measurements of the core size mainly, as this is what suppliers use to determine correct part #'s.

[Randy88FJ62]

Here are my plans for this weekend:
1. Replace radiator with wrong size (fab new brackets, trim battery tray, and move overflow reservoir more towards silencer on drivers side fender wall.)
2. Cut fan shroud for future easy access.
3. Install new belts.
4. Install Trany Cooler.
5. Drop Trany Cooler pan and check/clean filter.
6. Drain and replace front differential fluid
7. Replace front pinion seal (Includes dropping front driveshaft.)
8. Replace old drain and fill bolt seals (2 front dif and 1 for trany.)

I have the pinion seal, trany pan seal, and fill/drain bolt seals. Am I missing any seals that I need to order today? I plan on picking up the seals tomorrow from Toyota as they are being shipped from their warehouse tonight.

I will post pics of new oversized radiator versus current tonight so that people can dissuade me if there are any major problems. Otherwise I’m going to use it and be done with it.

-Randy

[Randy88FJ62]

I only have the basic FSM. Does it have all the torques in there?

what type and how much fluid do I need for the front differential?

I will need 2 gallons of trany fluid for the Rodney flush (what type of fluid?) Who uses synthetic and is it that much better? Is it bad to go from regular to synthetic?

Thank you everyone for your input. I prefer all input even if it's criticism because it allows me to learn more about my FJ62.
-Randy

[4xoddic]

Not necessary to remove AC condenser; use .25 in. ratchet/socket to remove 4 fasteners behind condenser as designated holder pulls away to allow room. Bolt condenser back until reassembly.

Thank your lucky stars the PO replaced the water pump; that's all the in a PITA job.

Check to make sure new hoses were used on water pump while they're easy to access.

Not necessary to drain tranny cooler lines; tie wrap up & cap to avoid contamination while you do the rad. If you're doing the Rodney flush, recheck the amt of fluid needed (I think maybe you're short a few qts.??).

Replace the rear heater hoses as long as you have the cooling system down. I used pliable heater hose, as the copper tubes are easy to bend. Cut the old hoses off & polish tubes with emery cloth.

[Randy88FJ62]

Condenser is currently out.
P.O. did not have the AC working so I have more space to work.
I will but a few extra quarts of ATF fluid just in case.
Synthetic versus regular anyone?

[89GASHOG]

Isn't tranny fluid mostly synthetic anyway? I wouldn't pay extra for something else. BTW, do you think the stock sized hoses will fit with the extra reach to your FJ80 radiator?

[Randy88FJ62]

That is a good question. When I looked at the ports and the filler area it looked like the right one. I will check in more detail after work.

[Randy88FJ62]

What weight oils go in the front and rear differentials and how much?

Are there different types of trany fluid or just go to an auto parts place?

Thanks, Randy.

[Rigger]

I got a CCOT rad, too. My filler neck was also damaged. The outer "threads" that hold the rad cap on were bent. It obviously took a hit somewhere. I was able to straighten it with needle nose pliers and some patience. It was either damaged when it was shipped from the supplier to CCOT or when it was shipped from CCOT to me.

I recommend getting a rad that fits and avoiding mods. My $0.02.

I also whacked the shroud in half.

I fought with my tranny lines. I had to pull the new rad loose a few times to get them lines in the right place. I had a few tense moments with that issue.

The lower rad hose is three sections. Two are rubber, one is metal. The short rubber hose is waaaaaaaay up tight to the engine. I could not figure a way in there to reach it. I have the new hose, it's about 3" long, but how to get it in there? Has anyone replaced that one?

I also replaced belts, plugs and plug wires. All in all, a fun free-for-all. The plugs were another story!

[Rigger]

Originally Posted by Randy88FJ62

What weight oils go in the front and rear differentials and how much?

Thanks, Randy.

Almost a gallon in each one. Use 80-90. You can get it at NAPA. Get the pump to put it in with. Make sure you can pull your fill plug off BEFORE you pull the drain plug off.

[89GASHOG]

Originally Posted by Rigger

I got a CCOT rad, too. My filler neck was also damaged. The outer "threads" that hold the rad cap on were bent. It obviously took a hit somewhere. I was able to straighten it with needle nose pliers and some patience. It was either damaged when it was shipped from the supplier to CCOT or when it was shipped from CCOT to me.

I recommend getting a rad that fits and avoiding mods. My $0.02.

I also whacked the shroud in half.

I fought with my tranny lines. I had to pull the new rad loose a few times to get them lines in the right place. I had a few tense moments with that issue.

The lower rad hose is three sections. Two are rubber, one is metal. The short rubber hose is waaaaaaaay up tight to the engine. I could not figure a way in there to reach it. I have the new hose, it's about 3" long, but how to get it in there? Has anyone replaced that one?

I also replaced belts, plugs and plug wires. All in all, a fun free-for-all. The plugs were another story!

I'm beginning to think that all of CCOT's 62 radiators have the bent neck issue. Hmmm... Regarding that lower radiator hose assembly, I thought there was a short plastic piece between the two rubber lines. As I recall, my new short hose was a bit longer than the original and was a real PITA to get in there. Maybe mine was easier because I removed the AC apparatus-I don't remember. The new small hose had a miniscule leak for awhile, but I think it's finally OK after some desperate tweaking. Yes, be careful with those tranny lines. That's another problem you might have, Randy, with your non stock radiator. The lines don't have much free play in them, and it is possible to twist the inlet line during reinstallation in a way that it can work loose.

[Wile E Coyote]

Randy, I'd really like to see ya ditch the '80' rad (assuming here) and go with one that's a known fit. The direct-fit rads we've mentioned all do a good job of cooling the mighty 3FE, I'd hate to see ya get to a no-turning around now point and find out the shroud now needs modified, and oh BTW, it's now almost hitting the hood when closed, etc.
Admittedly, I'm just speculating here, and won't beat this horse any further. You must have the new rad in hand, and if you're like me, it's a done deal in your head already.
Post up some pics of the process.

[Wile E Coyote]

Originally Posted by 89GASHOG

Isn't tranny fluid mostly synthetic anyway?

Nope, conventional trans fluid is mostly mineral oil with small amts of additives and the red colorant.